topgun2

p.p.s. I can get you a picture of the bottom of the microwave and/or the back of the trim piece if that helps you - just let me know. Bill

When you take a look inside you will see that the microwave has a sheet metal piece attached to the bottom that extends about 5/8 inch from the bottom of the microwave. Then there are four rubber feet - one at each corner - that extends another 5/8 or so for a total of 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. As I remember, I used scrap 2 x 4 around the bottom to wedge around that wood box and under the microwave until the wedges hit the rubber feet. Then where that didn't fit I shaved off slices (using my radial arm saw) until it was tight. Pay attention to the fore/aft movement - you can wedge wood not only against the rubber feet but also between the sheet metal at the base of the microwave and the front of the interior cabinet. I did not drill into anything - the simple wedging did the trick. Once you get the trim piece off, you will see that the "metal" is actually very thin and only supported via the plastic framing. There really isn't much metal there at all. Bill p.s. in wedging the material around the unit I used a small hammer to tap the wedges into place. Small because of the working space and I didn't want to bend anything out of shape on the microwave. However, I did want to have the wedges very snug. Finally, when I was satisfied I drilled four holes in the front of the face plate and screwed directly through the fiberglass into the wood box. Then I used screw covers to "hide" and dress up the screws. No one has ever commented that the covers look out of place.

Even though for most of my trips I travel alone, I still do not use the space between the bed to store anything meaningful. I have placed a "rack" for my shoes on the short wall below the streetside bed and when I'm towing the things that sit on top of the nightstand are placed on the floor at the foot of the nightstand. I assume that you have utilized the space below the front dinette seat and the space below the streetside bed? Once I found the perfect sized plastic container for under the front dinette seat it has been the depository for my coffee maker and things that will not fit in the pantry. Extra charcoal, my shower tent, safety cones and a few other things go below the streetside bunk. Happy Thanksgiving and good luck on finding the storage solution(s) that work for you. Bill

Welcome to the Family! Let us know if there is anything we can do to make the trip even more enjoyable. Be sure to let the folks at the Mothership know that you are the new owners. They have the complete file on 1147 and can let you know what services have been performed by them during its life. Bill

Yes - there was a post here on the Forum that showed the inner workings of those things. Good luck in finding it. Bill

Retired 2020 - Welcome - really glad that you finally got here. Thanks for the checklist. There are a number of checklists available here on the forum and - like yours - most are easy to adjust to any number of camping styles. Let us know if there is anything that we can do for you! Bill

Is the sink actually rusting - its supposed to be stainless steel - or is it from water stains due to iron in the water?

Search further - No it doesn't have to be the Zamp brand but any that you purchase will have to have a separate solar controller. Bill

Everyone note that Steve and MA's idea isn't just for those with "frosted "cabinet doors! I've had similar product on the interior of my "mirrored" doors for a number of years and it does a great job. Even those with the "black" doors can benefit from this mod. Also note that when replacing the doors - do not over tighten the hardware - particularly the hinges. Overtightening will cause "spider" cracks in the door around the hinge. Also, be a bit careful with the razor knife that you might use to trim the "contact/cling" material as any scratch or cut on the inside of the coating on the door will be easily seen when you turn on those interior cabinet lights. Bill

Yes, there is more to the story. It seems that for vehicles that get used more often than RV's the movement of the tire causes some distribution of the chemicals in the rubber. Whereas when a tire stays static there is (obviously) no movement and/or flex. In turn, this allows the surface of the tire to degrade faster than it "normally" would which eventually leads to cracking which leads to ..... When I put Twist into winter storage I first slightly elevate the tires from the gravel base by rolling the trailer onto pressure treated lumber that is covered in plastic sheeting. This helps keep moisture away from the tires. Then I cover each wheel with a tire cover and, finally, I place a 2 x 8 sheet of treated plywood over the covers. This keeps rain, snow, weed wackers and the like from damaging the covers. Perhaps a bit overkill, but, it makes me happy knowing that I've done all that I can think of to protect things while getting the most time out of them. Bill

Primarily covers are used to reduce a tire's exposure to UV light which degrades the rubber over time. The less light that the tires are exposed to results in longer life of the rubber. Some people will use tire covers virtually all the time when stopped - even overnight. But, most simply use them while the RV is in storage. Bill

That's a great place for seeing it from the entry door, but, doesn't the "flashing" red light bother you at night? Or, did you find a way to tame it?

A couple of years ago

Absolutely lovely camp ground. Watch out for those gators on your walks! Bill

Unless water is a very serious "problem" the benefits of a composting toilet can be debated. Over a thousand dollars is a fair amount of money to change the method of how one handles solid waste while handling liquid waste remain basically the same. Bill

jd1923 - Given the amount of electronic "stuff" in the Oliver, I simply chose to have this system installed at the time of birth. It has worked perfectly over the past years, but, I've never really looked to see exactly how it is installed (with the exception of that remote readout). Unfortunately, Twist is in off-site storage or I'd get some pics for ya. Note that the readout was initially installed under the street side bed. This meant that in order to see what it was trying to tell me, I'd have to lift that bed! Be careful as to where you decide to mount it - the flashing (as it scrolls through its various screens) will make you think that you are trying to sleep in a cheap hotel if you mount it just about anywhere out in the open part of the cabin. However, you will want it in a place where you can see it easily as you plug into shore power. I moved mine from under that bed to inside the pantry - it is high up on the rear wall of the pantry. All I do is open the pantry door and I can see the readout from the entrance door, yet, it is not in the way of storage inside the pantry and, when the door is shut that flashing red display can't be reflecting off the interior of the cabin. Bill

Good luck. I assume that you are going to need a new/additional mounting board for the second accumulator. I managed to squeeze my one accumulator onto that same board that Oliver used to mount the water pump but there certainly wasn't enough room for two. Bill

Frank - Thanks for being such a supportive and active member of the Forum. Have fun but remember to stay out of trouble. Bill

I'm soooooo jealous! Congrats. Bill

Could not have been too "crisp" with the door wide open - 😁 Seriously - nice shots. Infrared on the first? Have a safe trip and enjoy the warmth. Bill

Dusty - Just get the "dust" off that #89 and she'll serve you well. (I'm sorry - I just could not resist). Welcome! As you get 89 back in working order be mindful that Oliver has continually upgraded components and systems over the years. Therefore, be sure to check exactly what model and year any particular Forum post is talking about because any advice given just may or may not apply to your trailer. Please let us know if there is anything that we can do to help. Bill

I do happen to live in the only county in the USA that is named - Transylvania! Halloween here is a blast for a town of only about 8,000 residents. Bill

Yes! And, its still a bad idea.

It was probably actually Jason Essary (Service Manager). Bill

GJ - Actually, THAT pic was taken in my workshop. The two holes in the "L" plate are from those self tapping screws that I put in place (the first time) through the 4 inch circle that I cut in the floor of the cubbie above the MW. I could never tell if the "L" plate is screwed hard against the MW cavity ceiling because you simply can't see in there once the MW is in place. However, if it is not hard against then it must be fairly close. The "problem" is that the two screws are the only thing holding the MW in place and the "case" of the MW is simple sheet metal. So, even if the "L" bracket is hard against the top there will still be flex in the rest of the MW cabinet which will place strain on the only other contact point(s) the face plate. I frankly was surprised by how much the MW still moved. But, bouncing down dirt roads let alone expansion joints on our super smooth interstates just might explain a bunch of things. No, I did not epoxy or "liquid nail" anything in place - the simple friction fit seemed to do the trick. All I was trying to do was to keep the MW from bouncing and it appears that I succeeded. If you try to do something similar to what I did - be mindful of trying to not restrict airflow too much given the heat that can collect in and around the MW. It is rare that I use my MW for longer than 3 or 4 minutes in one sitting. But, for years it was the lack of airflow inside this space that prevented Oliver from offering something like the convection oven that is now available. Bill p.s. In re-reading your comments above I'm thinking that a better mental pic of the wood box(s) into which the MW is placed might be of some benefit. Basically, it appears to be a box inside a box or at least a three sided box inside a box with the three sides being the top and (at least ) two sides - I'd bet on a regular five sided box with one side missing - the front where the MW slides in, but, since I didn't want to tear what was there apart, I really don't know. Having said this - I was a bit surprised when Oliver Service told me that I would need to drill a 4 inch hole in the cubbie above. And, when I drilled that hole (it absolutely ruined a 4 inch carbide hole saw doing this - that fiberglass in really touch stuff - I looked in expecting to see the area where the MW was located. All I saw was what turned out to be the top of the "wood box" I mentioned above. Blindly, I drilled pilot holes for the self tapping screws and that is where the two holes in the "L" bracket came from. Next, I was worried that I'd play hell getting those two screws back into those two holes when it came time to put the MW back in place the second time. But, (maybe luck was on my side) it was a piece of cake given that I (obviously) slide the MW right back into the same original position. Hopefully this helps. p.p.s. Where did you dig up that pic? A moldy oldie for sure. I had forgotten that I even took the pic.