topgun2

Note that the larger CLAM's such as the one in Katjo's video above will not fit in the closet of the Ollie. They must be stored either in the tow vehicle or someplace else in the Oliver (i.e. the aisle, the bath, the bed, etc.) The smaller version like THIS one will fit inside the Oliver closet (folded up of course). Bill

Even though Mainiac poked a bit of fun at himself in his original post above - this is no joke. Serious injury could result from this "anode plug" given the force behind it. As John Davies mentions above - bad things can (and do) happen, Bill

1st question - Just like any insurance the answer to you question depends on: a. can you afford to "self insure"? The word "afford" has several meanings here - obviously the money involved is one but what about peace of mind knowing that many "big" expenses will already be taken care of? b. what are the "odds" that you will actually need the insurance? Obviously, the odds are very good IF you ever have a claim, but, these same odds are very bad if you never have a claim. c. are you disciplined enough to "pay" yourself that $25 per month and put it into a "repair fund". And even if the answer is "yes" then will it be enough to cover the expense of what you might have to repair? Remember that you already have some insurance on a brand new Oliver. Certainly for at least the first year you will be paying that additional $25 per month for basically nothing given that the Oliver warranty covers everything. 2nd question - I do not "do" Facebook, so, I'm not the best person to ask. From what little I do know, at least one of the Facebook groups was formed in order to make it a bit easier to post pictures and since members of a group were more "centered on Facebook for other aspects of their lives, it was simply an easier platform for them (i.e. it avoided having to jump back and forth from one thing to another with different formats). Why there are two separate groups? I could guess but that would be of no use. Bill

Understand that this chore is not really all that difficult. And, it is good to know how to do this job in the event you have problems while on the road. However, it is messy and requires attention to detail. Remember that mistakes can be very costly. Your "big question" relative to the brand of bearings really depends on a bunch of factors - how hard are you on your bearings (i.e. do you normally tow in high heat at high speed or in wet weather or in a salty climate or tend to perform maintenance on the bearings later versus sooner, or .....). Having said this - quality is generally a good thing, kind of like one of the reasons we all bought an Oliver in the first place. But, if you are gentle on your bearings, always perform maintenance at or ahead of time, etc. there is a case to be made for not throwing your money away just so you can say you have the best. Tools are a similar decision. Buy quality tools and they will last you a lifetime. However, if you will only plan to service your bearings once a year or so and do not plan on using the tools for any other purpose and only plan to keep your RV for another 10 to 20 years and usually keep your tools in good condition (i.e. don't leave them out in the rain, stress them beyond normal tolerances, don't use a screw driver as a chisel, etc.) , a case can be made that you are wasting your money by buying anything beyond what will give you service for that period of time. Bill

Don't know about "cost saving" but my 2016 hull #117 does not have this panel. 😥 Bill

Nice camp and pics - but - I just have to ask - what does the pup weigh? Bill

1st question - nope, you are good to go. Over time, dirt and grime will tend to collect in those chips and you might notice them more. 2nd question - Kind of like fixing paint chip on a car or truck. I've never been very good at it such that the "touch-up paint" doesn't show. One of the big problems in doing chip fix is getting the correct color - yes all Olivers are white but they are not all the same white. Or, you can wear those chips with pride. Kind of like a hard earned patina. 😉 Bill

SeaDawg is presently "on the road", so, it just might be awhile before she can reply. At this point - I'd re-read what JED, Frank C and MountainOliver had to say nd either call it a day or add that additional ground. Bill

Yes, unless they've changed it (I don't think they have), Oliver uses Progressive surge protection. Progressive also makes models that are external to the RV and some people have used these external protectors either because they do not have the internal one that Oliver now uses or because they believe having two will give them more protection. Bill

I really liked Hungry Mother when I stayed there a few years ago. If you've never done it are are a car/racing person at all then a short trip over to the Bristol Motor Speedway and a tour is very interesting and not very expensive. Bill

I do not remember what the price is but I think that Technorv.com has water pressure regulators on sale presently. Bill edit : HERE IT IS $23.99 It comes pre-set for 45 psi but it is adjustable up to 160 psi.

Certainly noting wrong with those split logs and the rubber chocks at HF do go on sale several times a year for under $6.00. A number of owners claim to always check the power pedestal prior to plugging in anything with at least one of THESE outlet testers or a multi-meter. But, I must confess, I do not. Perhaps this is being lazy but I believe that the Oliver surge/circuit protector will take care of me and the electronics in the Oliver. Also it is because I rarely am at a place where there are pedestals - I boondock most of the time. Bill

I always have 4 chocks with me. While I use the Andersen leveling system if I need to level from side to side, I still have the extra set of chocks. This is in case I'm on what appears to be "level" ground or if I need to unhitch and leave the Ollie somewhere without regards to using it for sleeping. I feel a bit "safer" if all four wheels are chocked in some manner at all times while not hitched. I even get nervous when dropping off my Ollie at the Oliver Service Department - it is on a concrete drive and very level and none of the Olivers there are chocked. But, habit is a hard thing to deal with particularly when it comes to my baby. While on the road I take two of the heavy rubber chocks (like THESE), my Andersens (like THESE), and a set of plastic chocks (like THESE). I virtually always use the rubber chocks but due to how heavy they are and the lack of use on the plastic ones I don't feel the need to always carry another set of the rubber ones. However, the rubber chocks will last much longer than the plastic ones. Bill p.s. in a pinch - don't forget about what resources that might be found around you - scrap pieces of wood, rocks, etc. can all be used as chocks

like your body - ouch! 😬

No trouble - glad you got the "issue" figured out. Many times "issues" can be solved in being able to see the forest for the trees or the trees for the forest. We get so involved in the bottom line problem that we simply do not step back and think through the events or systems that are involved and then take a step by step approach to get to the end. Certainly I'm as guilty of this as anyone! Bill

If it was me, I'd not risk leaving the batteries stored in the Oliver. If those batteries leak it will cause one heck of a mess and expense in getting that cleaned up. With the winter temps you are looking at, hopefully there is a place where you can store the batteries (out of the Oliver) where they will not be hurt by zero degree temps. If there isn't such a place then I'd either give them away or trash them, find a neighbor who would be willing to store them for me, or (if you are driving) take them with you. Good luck! Bill

Liana - Given your hull number I suspect that you have the "touch" lights (i.e. you touch or push them to turn them on)? If this is the case then about all you can do is get replacements from Service. Bill

Two big thumbs up on that TPMS! Good for you! Bill

OK - great - we are making progress! I agree with bhncb - the inverter is actually working and producing AC (alternating current or 120 volts). The GFCI he mentions is the next thing in the line to check. Easy to do if you have one of THESE or THESE. Lacking a tester then about all you can do is "trip" the GFCI and then reset the GFCI. This is done via the two buttons located on the front of the GFCI outlet. Make sure that you do this a couple of times - you should hear the GFCI "click" when you test it. Bill Bill

I apologize if I missed the fact that you are boondocking - of course there is no power pedestal. This actually makes things a bit simpler. The transfer switch should have nothing to do with your issues. However, the inverter is central to getting you from 12 volts to the 120 volts you are looking for. As far as I know, the surge suppressor doesn't come into play when you are using the inverter. Therefore it would be normal for it to be blank. I assume that you have tried to turn on your inverter via the remote switch. But, have you tried turning it on via the "on/off" switch located on the inverter itself?

Most of these things are really not "necessary" for you to enjoy your Oliver. However, they do make the experience more relaxing and or easier or safer than it would be without them. They tend to save you time, energy, worry and simply make the whole camping/traveling experience more enjoyable because you spend less time working, thinking, worrying and more time doing what you really want to do. It will not be long now and your delivery will pass you by as if being played in triple fast speed. Try to resist buying anything but what you feel is necessary and then add later depending on your style of travel and camping. Bill

I'm a bit surprised that one of our more qualified electrical members hasn't chimed in on your initial question with help. There are a number of reasons that are possible for your problem. If you simply move the slide switch in your picture to the "bypass" position then you will feed electricity directly from the campground pedestal to your Ollie without protection. If you decide to try this then I'd suggest that you turn off everything that you can - i.e. run the fridge on Propane, turn off the solar panels, turn off the air conditioner, unplug the microwave, and even turn off the furnace so that if there is a "problem" with the electricity being provided via that pedestal you don't ruin something and/or compound the issues you may be having. Have you checked the pedestal for polarity, grounding, voltage regularity, etc.? Have you checked your shore power cable - connections ends and for signs of wear? Bill

Just goes to show how lazy I really am! My six inch by 11 inch wood blocks are either placed on their sides (6 inches) on on their ends (11 inches) depending on how much room I have. Certainly as Mike points out - the less you have to extend the on-board jacks , the better - whether that be for leveling or for changing a tire. Bill

Actually it was JED above that suggested the Lego blocks and they are good to have on board. Having said this - I've only actually used my legos one time in the last seven years! Bill

Most travel trailers do not have disk brakes. There are several members of this Forum that consider our drum style brakes to be "garbage". However, over the years these drums and brakes have done the job in a simple, cost effective manner without major difficulty. If one keeps them clean and in good repair they should give you years of trouble free service. Having said this - there is little question that disk brakes perform better over a higher range of conditions as opposed to drum brakes. But, RV's are not sport cars or airplanes. Nor are they normally subjected to the same kinds of wear and tear as even our daily drivers. Bill