topgun2

In looking over this entire thread due to a recent thread concerning the Garmin rearview camera connected to the Garmin 890, I stumbled across this question and thought that I'd give an update. Until this past summer I had no problem at all with my onboard Ford TPMS for my 2017 F-150. Unfortunately, in August I started getting random dashboard alerts that there was a TPMS "malfunction" with my front passenger side wheel. Several times I checked my tire pressures and each time the pressures were correct (i.e. they didn't change at all!). I did remember this thread and thought about the placement of the Garmin (plus my InReach mini and/or sometimes a cell phone) as possibly being a contributing factor. Finally, when I recently took the truck into the dealer for an oil change I asked the service tech to rotate the tires and have a look at that TPMS in the front left closely due to this random fault. Bottom line is that there was a small nail in the thread of the tire that was not long enough to puncture the tire. According to the tech - since this nail was relatively close to where the TPMS is mounted in the tire, the nail was interfering with the data transmission from the tire to the receiving unit inside the truck. I have to admit that I was a bit suspect of this explanation but its now been over a month since and there have been no further TPMS "malfunctions" and the tire pressure continue to remain stable. Bill

OK - found it! HERE is the thread from January 24, 2021 where my install of the BC35 is mentioned along with the extension cables I made work by gently sanding the male ends of the extension cord. Can't remember if I mentioned it but besides the distance issue with transmitting the WiFi signal there is a "problem" with mounting the WiFi sending unit on the exterior of the Ollie - it is NOT waterproof! Bill

I bought the Garmin BC35 for use with my Garmin 890. Overall I've been happy with it but given how I wanted to mount the camera and WiFi sending unit there were some "issues". I mounted the camera in the usual roof position with its wires entering the Ollie into the attic. Unfortunately, due to the distance from there to the cabin of the truck plus the various things (insulation, cabinets, 3 layers of fiberglass shell, etc.) the transmission was spotty. So, even though Garmin claims that there is no "extension cord" for the WiFi sending unit I did manage to purchase a cord that with very slight modification worked. However, only one 6 foot extension would work due to the voltage drop of adding more. The good news is that with this 6 foot extension I was able to get the WiFi sending unit into the first kitchen cabinet just inside the front door. This location not only was sufficient for strength of signal but was handy to the electric from the switch panel just inside the front door. I did write this up in another thread and later I'll try to find it for you. Bill

When considering the price of the bearings versus the hassle, time, safety, energy, pain in the ....., etc of breaking down on the road, I would just go ahead and change those right now. Bill

Dr - I too went the accumulator route in my search for a quieter way to get water. There are also additional features of the accumulator that I've grown to like. In addition to this I did several things - all at the same time. Therefore I can't tell you which of these helped the most. When plumbing for the accumulator I replaced all attached lines with stainless steel braided lines and then covered ALL lines that I could reach with insulator tubes (LIKE THESE). Next I added more layers of insulation against the hull, on the underside of the trap door/access door to this area, and against the interior wall beneath the bed. As a result, I can now hardly hear the water pump when it come on. Good luck! Bill p.s. look me up at the Rally - I'd be happy to show you what I did.

Southbird - You might want to take a look at THIS THREAD for some help thanks to ScubaRX. Note that this pertains only to older Olivers and their original window shades versus newer Olivers with the pure white shades and different sized windows. Bill

What's that got to do with it?😇 Seriously - any human that I know of isn't going to lift one of these campers all by themselves. Knowing what works and especially knowing the right way to do it pertains to all of us. Besides usually being safer, the right way is also usually the most efficient and easiest way to get a job done correctly too. Bill p.s. besides - these kinds of topics are good to revisit from time to time particularly with more and more people obtaining previously owners Ollies.

While traveling one must do what they have to do to be safe. Much of this discussion involves other actual or potential issues such as where does one have to place a jack (both on the camper and the ground), how much of the trailer is being lifted and how long (time) is the trailer going to be lifted. As many others have done - I've simply used the onboard jacks for changing tires or simple quick lube jobs and as far as I know I've not done any damage to either the frame or the fiberglass. On the other hand - jacking the trailer for extended periods of time or jacking the entire trailer off the ground (versus one wheel at a time) is an entirely different matter and I've never done that in any fashion. Bill

The potential problem with doing this is that the axles just might be dented, bent or otherwise deformed. These axles are not solid material. The basic problem with this is that depending on where the jacks are placed there may be enough torque to "tweak" or bend the frame such that it will either be out of alignment and/or put stress on the fiberglass body. Both these issues (and perhaps more) are reasons why Oliver started identifying the specific jack points on trailers sometime in 2017 or 2018. As with SeaDawg my 2016 Elite II has never had jack points identified. However, I've been told that when/if I need to jack up the camper I should place the jack on the steel subframe as close to the axles as I can. It will be interesting to see what the latest word on this issue is from Service. Bill

OR - try this. Note that the jack points indicated in the video are NOT NECESSARILY applicable to all Elite II's. Early models had a different sub-frame. Bill

I just saw the following notice for late model Ford truck and since a fair number of Oliver owners have this truck it might be of interest: Ford is also recalling 391,836 2021-2022 F-150, 2022 Ford Maverick, Expedition, Lincoln avigator, F-250, F-350, F-450 and F-550 vehicles because a towed trailer equipped with an electric or electric-over hydraulic brake system might not brake. Dealers will update the integrated trailer brake control module software. Ford has 67 reports of improper function potentially related to the issue but no reports of crashes or injuries related to the recall.

Not sure - orientation of the camera when the picture was taken perhaps? Bill

JD - I rotated your pics for you but let me know if they are not in the correct orientation and I will further adjust them. Bill

JD - I rotated your pics for you but am not sure that they now align with your wording and/or are in the proper orientation. Let me know if they need more work. Bill

CB - I camped at Blue Spring for about 15 years in a row while attending "Bike Week" in Daytona. It really is a nice place! However, that's not why I'm answering 😄. I've not had that screen out since last Spring - but - from what I remember you don't remove those clips since (I think) they are what holds the screen in place. As you have already found out - this is not all that easy, either removing or re-inserting. Try positioning the screen as close to its final position as you can, squash the screen and bottom clip into the track and then (either with your finger or something thin and flexible) squash the top spring/clip into the track while pushing the frame of the screen out. Hopefully that will "pop" it back into place. Of course I'm assuming that your screen is like mine and that was not changed when Oliver changed the windows. Good luck! Bill p.s. once it pops back into place you can then "slide" it into its final original position - this is also not that easy but it will go.

P.S. I should have mentioned above: Stay away from the Rand McNally RV GPS. I understand that they have recently stopped supporting their RV GPS units even though they continue to sell them. See THIS Video on YouTube. Bill

Any chance of getting a picture of the famous Emma?

THIS is getting eggcruciating!

John - There are threads here on the Forum about the relatively new Garmin 890 (which I have)(simply type 890 in the search box). In this Garmin - along with several other models related to RV's - they allow you to input the size of the tow vehicle along with the size of the RV. This is then used by the Garmin to determine which roads just might not be suitable for that specific combination. However, they do not ask for things like engine size or even the specific model of tow vehicle. This means that even though your combination just might be the same length as mine, yours might have a smaller engine which would possibly make towing up certain grades a bit more difficult than I would experience. I'm not aware of any GPS device that takes ALL factors into consideration. Having said this - the Garmin does do a good job relative to height restrictions, narrow roads and road grade warnings. I wouldn't be without mine! Bill

If I were in your shoes - I'd call the Sales staff and ask the question about height making sure that they know that you are ready to place an order given the information they might provide. Good luck! Bill

Since you have the composting toilet - instead of using a "regular" RV drain hose you might want to consider getting a drain hose cap like THIS ONE so that you can use a regular garden hose to dump that grey water. A garden hose is easier to store, easier to move around and overall eaiser to deal with as compared to the regular RV sewer hose. Bill

Nice number and interesting name! It won't be long now. Bill

Emma's going to love the Ollie! Hopefully you have been reading all that you can in the Oliver University and here on the Forum. June 15th really is just right around the corner. If the Oliver is your first camper then you might want to take a look at a new YouTube video by "Keep Your Daydream" concerning the "stuff" you will need when first starting to camp (This One). Let us know if we can help you in any way and welcome to the Family! Bill

There are a couple of old sayings concerning discounts: 1. Always give the person a chance to say "no". 2. You never know until you ask. Bill

Nice trip with a fair number of miles and stops. Glad all went well. If you were using that little bubble level that is in the front jack to level the camper, note that it requires readjustment from time to time. This is done by getting the camper level (using another leveling device) and then turning the three screws on top of the front jack in order to get the bubble in the exact center. Bill