CRM

Owners manual says it has low, med, hi, and auto.

The convertor converts your onboard 12v DC to 57v DC so no AC power needed at all.

We went with the Gen3 for a couple of reasons- you can switch between residential and roaming plans with it, and the residential plan is less expensive with higher bandwidth. As of now you can't do that with the mini. The Gen3 is supposed to have better performance though I can't give an opinion on that since I've never had a mini to compare it to. Also, you can run the Gen3 off of 12v DC with a convertor though it will still use about 20-30 watts more than the mini does. When it comes to the residential vs roaming, *so far* we've been lucky and haven't had to switch to a roaming plan when we hit the road. We just change the service address from our home address to the campsite and it works within minutes. You can do this an unlimited amount of times but must be prepared to be denied access if the area you are in is not allowing any new residential connections. If this ever happens we would just change to a roaming plan until we got back home.

I think the highest watts draw the engineer in the Youtube video was able to see at max power was around 1100. Still far less than any of the single speed compressor units of comparable size. In our small insulated spaces I'm guessing we would be consuming around 500-700 most of the time once setpoint is met.

I suspect that's where it's really going to shine, especially in controlling humidity once set temp is reached.

Thanks for correcting me. In his pic it looked like it was in the #4 fuse position to me.

According to the label on the fuse box door it's for the furnace. If you want to check your blue wire and white wire for continuity, just put a 12v test light between the blue and white wire connectors at the 7 pin and then activate your breakaway switch. According to the schematic, that should power the blue wire and the white wire should complete the circuit to ground to light the test light.

If you zoom in on the bearing included in this kit you'll see that they are NTN brand made in Japan. If that's what comes in the axles from the factory I'd probably leave them in and run with them instead of swapping them out ASAP with Timken's like I was originally thinking. I'd still carry a new set(s) and the tools to change them though...

Nev-R-Adjust is the brake system not the bearings.

Tempting... but I think I'm going to try and hold out for a sale on the Pioneer branded unit. I like the 3 year vs 1 year warranty.

Yep, which is why it behooves all RV owners to own a multimeter and a test light (and to learn how to use them) so they are able to diagnose simple electrical issues like this quickly themselves.

I've seen LED trailer lights work correctly getting their ground through just the hitch coupling alone but then the trailer brakes work intermittently or not at all. Happened to me a few years back with my boat trailer. Still think a missing ground is at the bottom of the list in this situation though... If it were mine, I'd hit both connectors with some DeoxIT before I even broke out the multimeter.

That trailer ground works for the breakaway switch since the battery in the trailer powers it, but to complete the brake circuit from the truck you must have a good ground from the truck to the trailer too

Since your brakes work when you pulled your disconnect I'm guessing it's likely a simple connection issue on the blue wire or ground. Less likely the ground wire if your running lights/turn signals and brake lights are working.

Nice to see that Oliver is now using standard electrical boxes instead of the "Speed Box" type receptacles that I replaced in our 2010 model.

Now that I see the instructions I think you could *probably* get away with two breaker bars and sockets, and maybe some short sections of pipe for additional leverage? Still like the idea of bringing an impact wrench along though since it would make wheel removal quick and easy too.

Better yet, maybe I could use the axle upgrade to get the wife to approve one of these? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20V-Brushless-Cordless-3-4-in-High-Torque-Impact-Wrench-Kit-with-Hog-Ring-Anvil-Tool-Only-DCF964B/332525396

You have more faith than I that it will be easier with the drum on a flat surface. When using it on a vehicle the knuckle will keep the housing from spinning when torque is applied to the press. If it doesn't come off as easy as expected maybe making a tool with a handle to attach to the wheel studs could help? Looking forward to hearing how it goes!

My only concern now with going Nev-R-Lube is whether or not the bearing tool can remove/install the bearings with hand tools. Maybe a couple of breaker bars?

Do you have a link to the tool kit that can remove and replace these bearings? If it's compact enough it just might entice me to move over to the Nev-R-Lube axles.

Yes, I posted a while back that a friend replaced his Dexter Nev R Lube bearings in his work trailer with Timken's that he bought from Summit. If I remember right they were used in several older Chrysler vehicles and he paid a little more than this, so I'd be wary at that price, especially from Amazon where counterfeit bearings are common . Personally, I would still carry a spare hub with a new bearing installed, because unless you plan on carrying a large enough bearing press with you you're not going to be able to change them yourself on the road. 3 sets of new bearings and one new hub would be the way I'd travel with these axles.

They're the Vise Grip of the power tool world. Can't believe you don't own one!

Yep! It's not far from home for us and we get over there every chance we can. Getting a reservation is the hard part!

Any of you owners of pre-shutdown Ollies with the retractable power cords have to replace the retract button? Mine just got stuck in the on position and I had to cut the power wire to it to shut it off. Looking for one with a rubber weather proof cover if possible to keep the water out, which is what I'm sure caused this one to fail.

For those interested, the new Hughes Power Center has finally been released. They've combined all the features of their Watchdog surge protector line and the Autoformer into one unit. Looks very interesting, though the retail price is pretty steep at $819. They also eliminated the "Autoformer" lable, probably due to confusion with it being an "Autotransformer", which it is not. https://www.powerwatchdog.com/voltage-boosters