Tom and Doreen

Hoping for an Oliver toy-hauler! 😉

This is what I measured back in April. "Panel indicated" is as stated, measurements recorded from the panel. "At terminals" were values recorded with a Fluke 8062A multimeter (calibrated) with respect to the common (-) buss bar except in the case of the actual battery voltage which was measured directly across the battery terminals at the battery ( for simplicity which does not include any drop across the shunt ). I haven't measured the drop across each segment of the high current DC line but the segment from the (+) terminal of the DC input to the Xantrex to the input of the circuit breaker accounts for approximately .27V with the remaining .24V being dropped across the segments preceding the circuit breaker. I don't know the specs for the shunt but it's probably not unreasonable to expect a .1V drop here given the load. I did speak with an engineer at Optifuse concerning the DCR ( DC resistance under load ) of the circuit breaker since their spec sheet did not disclose this information and he stated that he would expect those values to be in the "low milliOhms if not microOhms" region which would be insignificant. So I believe that it all comes down to the basics; is the cable quality, length, and gauge appropriately rated for the max load; is the surface area and quality of the crimps and terminals adequate, have the number of connections / crimps in the system been minimized ? Could be a 'bad circuit breaker' but given the fact that others are having the same problem, probably not.

This should be considered a "work-around" rather than a "fix" and Oliver should come up with a permanent solution, which I'm sure they will. In my particular case, running a 1.5kW load, the voltage indicated by the Xantrex display was .5V lower than what was measured at that battery. This doesn't seem like much but it does cause a premature and unnecessary shutdown of the Xantrex, as many have experienced, since the Xantrex interprets the battery voltage being much lower than it actually is. Changing the LBCO to a lower value to compensate works however it doesn't change the fact that there is still a .5V drop across the wiring and associated circuit breaker. That doesn't sound like a big deal but what it equates to, in my case, is that running a 1.5kW load results in 60W ( conservatively ) being dissipated by the wiring on the DC input side of the Xantrex. That's power that's not being applied to the load and results in unnecessary heating of the wiring (although small). Ideally there would be no voltage drop between the battery and the Xantrex, in reality there will be some, nothings perfect, but .5V is excessive. Having said all that the "work-around" will work, as I've been using that method for a while with good results, and my heavy electrical loads are usually temporary.

Best wishes, John, enjoy your future adventures!! Thank you for all you've done for this forum and we look forward to hearing from you again!

@MAX BurnerNice setup! Do you have the automatic bed step on your Tundra and if so do the Rock Tamers interfere with it? Any issues with the sensors?

The Mini-Rally and a visit to the Maine Botanical Gardens just down the road.

@jd1923The Optifuse 300A/48VDC circuit breaker should remove all DC power to the Xantrex. The 60A/42V circuit breaker controls the 12V peripheral systems in the coach; lights, radio, etc..

@RustyMDThat’s terrific , I’m glad that you found the problem!

Just guessing here but is your flue blocked or is the fan not operating / jammed? If you have the antifreeze kit is the yellow flue plate removed?

True, this has been my work-around. When I have more time I’ll have to look into this further , if not I’ll have Oliver fix it this winter.

Yes and unfortunately we have the same issue. We have a voltage difference of between .4V - .5V between the actual battery voltage and what the Xantrex reads so there is a voltage drop across the wiring and the circuit breaker. When the batteries are at full charge it’s not too bad but when the batteries begin to discharge we come close to the Xantrex cut off point because the voltage that the Xantrex sees is significantly less than what the actual battery voltage is.

The sensor does use an O-ring and they supply some spares in the kit. Good idea to add silicone, I'll do that next time.

I thought that I'd post this in case anyone else runs into the situation that I did whereby the TPM sensor battery compartment was unable to be removed with the supplied stamped sheet metal wrench. In my case the battery compartment was so stuck on that the supplied wrench began rounding off the plastic hex nut profile of the sensor, had I gone any further the sensor would have been ruined. I ended up using a 1/2 inch six-sided socket that provided much more surface area contact than the wrench and the socket did not mar the surface of the plastic nut; even doing that I was unable to grasp the barrel end of the sensor with enough force using my hand to unscrew the barrel from the sensor until I squeezed the barrel between the padded hand grips of my channel-lock pliers ( don't use the jaw end or you'll risk crushing the barrel ). Curiously ProSmart used to ship a tool that more accurately fit the profile of the sensor but have included only the stamped sheet metal wrench in the current kits which provides significantly less surface area contact leading to the possibility of destroying the plastic nut profile. Also, when replacing tires I'd recommend changing the tire stems to metal versions rather than rubber to prevent premature failure of the stem as a result of the added weight of the TPM sensors.

Seems low but what equipment do you have and are you running any high power loads? What type batteries, what brand inverter, and what battery monitor are you using? If you have a Xantrex inverter and a Victron battery monitor do they both indicate the same voltage?

First off I don't have one of these furnaces so this comment probably isn't worth the time you're taking to read it but it sounds to me like your furnace is not 'seeing' a flame which would indicate a faulty flame sensor; most furnaces have a mechanism like this.

Hi John, yes there are quite a few devices available with regard to changing engine / operating parameters but unfortunately most require both a hardware purchase and a software subscription these days. The subscription business marketing model seems to be proliferating through everything these days including access to service manuals; remember the days when you could buy a OEM service manual outright and hold it in your hands??? Luckily I'm pretty happy with the way the truck is setup, except for the fact that I'll have to pay a subscription fee for a few of the 'extras' when the grace period ends which I likely won't do. ~Tom~

I recently bought a Scan Guage lll which displays engine data in real time including various temperatures and also indicates when the torque converter is "locked" which should help in determining the correct gear for the condition and keep transmission temperatures lower. I haven't taken it on a long trip as yet but so far it seems to be helpful. Not a big deal but I'm somewhat disappointed with the relatively mild engine breaking capability that the truck has which could place more burden on the braking system on steep / long down hill runs. It hasn't been a problem so far out east here but could be more of a concern out west. Has anyone had experience with that issue out west?

We had the same problem and the answer was to lubricate the sliding coupler as Bill and Nancy stated above.

@RivernerdThis is great news! We have a similar problem and will try your suggestion. Thanks, much appreciated! ~Tom~

LOL, looks very off-road capable!

I’ll bet it has more to do with politics and competition agreements than anything. Years ago Toyota was required to use US steel and manufactures to build the beds of their trucks. Guess what part of my truck rusted out. ….The Toyota cab, frame, and power train were still in fine shape when I gave it away with close to 300K miles on it.

I installed the Talon's Garage cat shield (aluminum) as well. Easy install, quick shipping, quality product. I'm somewhat concerned about the ventilation but so far so good.

Low probability but you can try to reset it by powering it off and then on again, press and hold the round button until the display goes off, then turn it back on; otherwise give service a call.

Just did mine yesterday: The issue that I have is that the grease doesn't seem to travel through the entire shackle link to the opposite end on a couple of the shackle links, it just oozes out of the first joint. I also found that one of the zerks behind the hanger on top of the equalizer on one side had never been touched by a grease gun, there was no evidence of any grease on the zerk at all.

Honestly I can't remember, I thought that's what I was told at the factory but I could be wrong.