jd1923

Years ago, when owning a Class-A, I called our local RV dealership (with 3 nearby locations). After They told me they were 2-3 months out, I replied no thank-you and have never again called an RV dealer for service. And for us driving to OTT for service is not practical. Fortunately for us, I can do everything we need to service our Oliver, though understand many owners cannot. I will job out fiberglass gelcoat, with a local detailer, not having these tools or expertise. I strongly suggest that most of you acquire a good local trailer shop, or owner-operated automotive repair shop you can count on. Most "annual service" can be worked by any reputable mechanic. Except for the fiberglass shell design, the mechanical systems are the same as any other TT or RV.

Our son's apartment is our lower level, and we ask him to be home and responsible when we travel. I'd hate to be that squatter. Can't believe what I heard on the news! A homeowner was arrested for changing locks on their own home, alleged intent to lockout squatters. This is a rule for landlords, but there was no lease agreement and no rents paid. How crazy will it get? This crazy, no, much worse? What's next?

Great pictures! Ya gotta bring more water! Besides the small OTT Fresh Tank, we have 35 gallons in the truck bed: Norwesco 35 gal. Horizontal Leg Tank at Tractor Supply Co. Fill up at home with enough water for boondocking 7-8 days, 1-2 more if conservative. Lot of areas in the NF and BLM where you can legally let a little grey go at a time. I special ordered tank straps which work great, and we have a canvas cover (not yet installed in the picture). Always a full case of bottled spring drinking water, and a couple of gallons for coffee. Not running out of good food or adult beverages either!

GJ, I would put you up against the Terminator, for attention to detail. Thank you for all you do. And @MAX Burner you are my recent favorite installer (after 45 years of me just pluggin' along). Great work in everything you do! I also love the fact that we purchased out OTTs within a few months of each other (you had a head start, not fair). GJ and I already have a plan. We're meeting at your place this summer. And If I get there first, I'm backing my Oliver into your garage first thing, Ah mechanics heaven. Sorry, GJ! God Bless you guys, God Bless America, and God Bless all y'alls on this wonderful Easter weekend. Not afraid to say it, just proud to be a hard-working American, the country that had allowed us to prosper and travel this great country in our little fiberglass traveling homes. 😂

If you were the original owner and never ran near 80 PSI, that blows my theory. For me, receiving our used OTT with 80 PSI on all fours, I figured it was run that way for 6-7 years. Thanks @routlaw

We almost always leave home with a full fresh tank. Our Oliver weighs in slightly over 6K LBS with the fresh tank full. It would take another 100 gallons of water to get up to GTWR. I also do not believe highway vs dirt roads matter, except that if your tires are overinflated the washboard dirt road can be damaging, but not at correct pressure. When we bought ours used, the tires were at 80 PSI. My bet is tire pressure. These days when I read pressure, if I can get all 4 even anywhere between 42 to 46 PSI, without backing into my driveway for the air compressor, I do that.

Mine had the two failures, yet every other weld was perfect, no other cracks at all. The purpose of my previous past was as the title suggests... "Check your frame, any damage? Welds good?" All OTT Owners should make this an annual check. I spend a lot of time crawling under cars, trucks and trailers. Generally, I find something that needs maintenance or repair, more often than not.

That would be me and it was about 8 months: Check your frame, any damage? Welds good? - Mechanical & Technical Tips - Oliver Owner Forums (olivertraveltrailers.com) Something I found just after we purchased our used hull. I would not think to bolt this. Just find a welder that can work aluminum. We had two frame braces broken on the curbside. I found a local guy who runs a metal salvage yard and does metal artwork. He charged me $75 and I gave him $100 cash. Doesn't look as pretty as the original, but they have held. Make sure your trailer tires are below 50 PSI!

Make sure you camp there a few days upon delivery. Use everything, test everything and they should make all necessary warranty repairs at that time. You will receive a high-quality TT that should only need regular maintenance that can be conducted by any good local mechanic. Most of the work, so many of us do on our Olivers, are mods the factory does not offer. I understand many of you do a regular pilgrimage to OTT, and we would love to too, if it were something we could afford to do in terms of 1000s of travel miles and service costs. When we purchased our used unit last summer, I was happy to see our hull had made two such service visits, through the years, with a lot of good work done. We will all continue to love our Olivers regardless of service location! 🙂

Must be a little adlib going on here, but I could not agree more. 🤣 I don't think the guys at "Forged in Fire" would touch this stuff while spring steel should make a good blade.

Lots of false stories re the economy, the data shows the economy is not good. Four years ago, gas at $2 +/-, then it was $5-7 depending on location, so are we are supposed to be happy at $4? Not! Our bills are 30-50% higher, in every category, than 4 years ago! Reason why I now have a long wish list for 2025, and if stuff gets worse, then I will repair what's absolutely necessary, meaning Oliver mods willl have to wait! 🙃

I can't upload photos today. Anybody else?

@MAX Burner what was your installation procedure? Was the tension released as soon as you lifted the frame? Does it matter which bolt you pull first? Thanks

I tried the same thing, and it didn't work for me. I ended up with a variable speed water pump and the manufacturer specified NOT to use an accumulator. I have 2 on hand if anybody needs one!

I believe there was a mention of another 1" +/- in an earlier post (pages back). Likely you need to have as extra 1-2" height clearance in your garage door. Our Oliver will likely never see the comfort of a garage!

I want to remove ALL the old messy silicone caulk OTT had applied at the factory and prior owners adding to it. I just spent 15 minutes searching for their 0240 product. I found a company to buy a case. Anybody know where to buy 1-2 cans?

@MAX Burner you're the man Art! I want a new set of springs now! 😂

I didn't realize the window alone was aftermarket. I mentioned wind, but now it appears it could simply be over-tightening of the window mounting screws.

Another suggestion... What caused this? I would say it's the door banging in the wind! If you take time and money to replace or rebuild this door, spend another few bucks to eliminate the cause: Amazon.com: Lippert RV Entry Door Friction Hinge Kit for 5th Wheel, Travel Trailer and Motorhome Pack of 2 : Automotive

Looks like a pretty cool door! Our a 2016, a little older, only has a bathroom-style frosted glass window. Would this be a custom door, DIY replaced? The picture shows an accordion style roll-up shade, clear glass behind. This is a special RV door! It would be difficult to replace one with like options. I would think about repairing the interior skin. You could remove the window bezel and then remove the interior skin and replace that with sheets of 1/8" textured white plexiglass. You have cracks everywhere! Many around the window appear to the exactly horizontal and then the obvious one, down the bottom-left corner. Does anybody else here have this style of door? If so, then yes service ticket, but it looks like a mod to me. If it was mine, I'd love to replace the interior door skin, and make it better than new!

Me too. All of us are interested! An engineering experiment... What if you had a large chunk of clay and put it between the axle and the frame. Drove down a test road and measured the height of compression before and after the test drive. Then do the same test, same path of road, with new leaf springs. The clay would likely be taller to start, but a ratio of compression, before and after would be measured. Yep, clay is old-school, so I love it! There are modern ways to measure this... My challenge to you, my special new friend, Art! 🤣

Great thread here! This post is key, from senior IRV2 member TeJay: "The cheap RV regulators don't regulate the pressure they just restrict the flow. That will in effect reduce the chance of over pressurizing your system if a CG has high water pressure. You do have a reduction of pressure but also a reduction of flow. With a true regulator you don't lose the flow or volume." Thank you, Bill & Martha! Yes, remove the cheap restrictors and purchase a quality pressure regulator. @Lisa Rae just came to this conclusion as she wrote above. I will also delete the installed restrictors. Lisa, you may consider removing the (winterizing/boondocking) brass water valves that restrict the flow to 1/4". I replaced them with motorized valves, or you could use manual valves that are 1/2" or at least 3/8" ID which is the true ID of 1/2" PEX connectors. Now I see why they only promise the 40-50 PSI range, since they restrict flow and not pressure. This is also the reason why my upgraded water pump provides better flow and pressure pulling from the Fresh Tank, vs when we connect the City Water inlet at the campsite. We still have the bathroom faucet issue, i.e. less flow than the kitchen faucet. There must be something inherent to the plumbing of our 2016 hulls, since many newer model owners do not have this complaint. I don't believe it's mineral buildup, since that would be everywhere, and I measured without the faucet heads installed. You can't "kink" PEX, but more length and multiple restricting connectors could do it. Also in ours, the plumbing in the vanity makes way more noise than our quiet new water pump. After we finish our travel this season, I will open the bathroom vanity and follow the water lines (and the furnace ducting) from the pump at the curbside bed to the wet bath!

I've seen the schematic showing check valve only before. Yours is that way and easier to reach in your 2018 model. Mine is exactly like @Lisa Rae's and we both have 2016 hulls. Two devices on each line, backflow check-valve AND pressure regulator at the REAR of the basement instead. I found out the 40-50 PSI regulator is a RV standard of old. See this item that Amazon calls "Overall Pick" with 21K reviews: Amazon.com: Camco Camper/RV Water Pressure Regulator | Protects RV Kitchen Small Appliances, Plumbing & Hoses | Reduces RV Water Pressure to Safe and Consistent 40-50 PSI | Drinking Water Safe (40055) : Automotive One of my many summer projects will be to remove the internal 40-50 PSI regulators, clean and replace the backflow/check-valves and get an external adjustable pressure regulator like you showed. Wow, this one is very expensive at $280, but again I don't want the $11 40-50 PSI unit, or one of the dozens of China-made adjustable units on Amazon for $30 +/-. Is yours made in the U.S.A.?

Me too, isn't that why we login each day? Thank you GJ, this made my day! @Mike and Carol reinforced my thought that my 450AH of LA might be good enough for many camping styles. And we have a near new battery bank the prior owner purchased in 2021. @MAX Burner also reinforced the idea, stating 300 AH works for them (although Art has a KILLER DC-to-DC installation). I'm going to keep reading, learning and likely will put off an LI upgrade for a couple of years. Just ask @SeaDawg, as she has been babying her AGMs for years. At the same time, would love to have 600AH of Epoch LI batteries ready for your next trip. All in time...

Thank you @Lisa Rae and @Townesw! So, when I get a chance to crawl into the rear basement... I will clean the water backflow preventers (aka check valves, a required component to achieve plumbing system pressure, allowing the water pump to cut-off/stop) on both lines and REMOVE the pressure regulators on BOTH lines, and instead use an external pressure regulator. Or perhaps, I could find an alternative to integrate an adjustable pressure regulator internal to the Oliver which of course would be preferred. Love the fact that in the pic, we see pressure regulated to just under 60 PSI, not 40 PSI, anywhere near the OEM regulator. 60 PSI is a good number, 40 PSI is NOT! We run 60 PSI in our 45-year-old home with copper plumbing, sweat solder joints. A modern PEX plumbing system can function up to 100 PSI. Thank about this.