jd1923

This may be your best option. I deleted the vent under the curbside bed (didn't like hot air in our faces when sleeping) and replaced the ducting up to the T with rigid yet flexible dryer vent ducting (illustrated in this thread above). I cannot imagine why OTT uses the soft flex ducting we have in our hulls. Our original ducting had holes everywhere along the bottom and a lot of dust inside. During manufacturing, it would be so easy to put solid aluminum or PVC ducting that could be cleaned inside like household ducting. Not easy, or near impossible as a retrofit! We do not have openings under our kitchen drawers as in your hull. Cutting into that area to open it up like yours would be easy enough, but getting under the fridge, under the cabin entrance, by the closet and all the way to the bathroom is another story! There may be a way to get under the floor and run ducting to the bathroom via the streetside basement, but you'd have to deal with it being in the way every time you need to be in there and would likely produce weak airflow in all its length. Yes, you could delete the bathroom run (leave the bathroom door open on cold nights). You could add another duct as far forward as you could reach and have all new ducting to that point. I would do that if/when we have to delete the bathroom since I had deleted the one under the bed. You need two 4" openings at least. The 10x6" filter added to the return duct certainly helps re dust. In this case you would have all new clean ducting and greater airflow in deleting the bathroom run which likely has leaks in it along the way. Glad to hear it's getting cold again up north! We had to use too much A/C when we were up in WY during June!

My new axles should ship next week. I want to remove a hub to see what's what inside, bearing make and model#, etc. Issue is the spindle nut is one-use only, must be replaced if removed. Alcan wrote they can get spindle nuts from Dexter at $42 each! 🤣 We're hoping to figure out the spec for the axle nut to source at a reasonable cost from some industrial supplier vs. this flagrant pricing from Dexter. If you read the Dexter spec sheet for Nev-R Lube linked above, it states the bearings are Made-in-USA. The 42mm bearing on RockAuto shows Timken, Made-in-USA. Good eye to see this NTN brand made in Japan. I too would be good with either, Japan or USA, just no-way on Chinese knock-offs! Hoping the USA made Timken $36 at RockAuto is correct and then all we need is correct spindle nuts. The other parts should be re-usable for at least the replacement of a second bearing. We'll know more soon...

I did ours a few months ago. The cone of the ball is pressed in there good from miles of trailer tongue weight! I didn't watch the video but what I did was turn the hitch upside mounted to the rear of my truck. Then I hit it firmly with a 5-LB hammer and it dropped down to the ground on the second strike. I was replacing the ball too, going from a 2" to a 2 5/16" ball so I did not care if I dinged the ball. If I was to reuse it, I would have padded the shaft before hitting it and placed something below to catch it nicely. Pictures show work in process...

When I read @Gliddenwoods post and read the term Nev-R Adjust I mistook it for the previous generation bearing type called EZ-Lube. John Dorrer knows the spec for 2022-25 Olivers and even though you were told you do not have Nev-R Lube bearings, perhaps you actually do (ask again). Please strike my comment made last night re upgrading to Timken. https://www.dextergroup.com/nev-r-adjust-brakes https://www.dextergroup.com/user_area/content_media/raw/nev-r-lube-lit-215-00.pdf A few of us are considering carrying replacement Nev-R Lube bearings to have as spares in our toolbox. The 5-year 100,000 mile warranty is a good claim but will not help if a bearing fails on the road in some remote location. Alcan quoted me the same price as eTrailer has it listed. It would be good to have one or more of these with you. Read page 29 of this thread for more information re these bearing kits. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bearings-Races-Seals-Caps/Dexter/31-73-3.html And as John wrote above, grease your leaf spring welt bolts but Nev-R Lube bearings do not require service as suggested in the name!

You have a relatively new Oliver. If you do the Timken bearing replacement I suggested, nothing you have done or not done in 3 years matters.

No, not at all, re this simple question. Some may say your axles, though they require an annual pump of grease and every 3-5 years (IMHO) should have a full bearing maintenance, could be better than the newer Nev-R Lube axles. The Jury is out on longevity of the newer Nev-R Lube bearings, that cannot be serviced, but must be replaced if they fail on-the road! We with Nev-R bearings are looking at replacement bearings and a bearing press to replace the bearing in the road if needed. Not necessary with your axles. I would keep your axles, if it was me. If you’re going to Alcan for service, or wherever, ask them to replace your bearings with Made in USA Timken bearings to remove the cheap China-made bearings that came with your axles. New Alcan leaf springs, new Timken bearings, a squirt of grease yearly and please feel confident you’ll have a new suspension rated at 1.5 times the weight rating of the Oliver with all new parts! Hope this helps in your decision! JD

Just from memory I believe the first wheel in line is the front streetside wheel. No, the <1" DIA cable is the 10/3 shore power cable coming from the front generator connection. The "Progressive Dynamics: Automatic Transfer Relay 5100 Series" switches between the 2 shore connections, front or streetside, to the one that is live. Your 7-wire trailer cable likely enters the front of your Oliver hull right next to the 10/3 shore power cable. If you get your head under where the LP tanks are mounted you could see the entry points.

Yes, this means brake wiring at all 4 wheels are good. And given you have tested for brake voltage at the rear of the truck or same day the truck pulled the airstream brakes working, you have an open circuit between the 7-blade plug on the Oliver and the first wheel.

Take a close-up pic of the 7-blade plug on your Oliver. Have you used dielectric grease? We have that iron-oxide dirt out here in the desert. I wonder when this issue happened for you. Why was it working last year but not now. What has changed? I believe power to the brakes at the wheels comes to the first wheel (front-streetside?) and then they are daisy-chained, front to back and down each axle to get to the curbside. I may be wrong as this is from memory from two years ago when I replaced wheel bearing and all the electrical crimp parts. If this is true, to have NO brakes, there must be an open before the first wheel. If the wire down the axle is bad (open) it would affect only one wheel. I'm also opposed to the camp that has replaced the interior axle wire to one zip-tied behind the axle. Now you have annual zip-tie maintenance and the chance of the wire being damaged by highway or offroad debris. I would use the old axle wire to pull a new one that is a step heavier AWG and one with heavy water-proof insulation like wire rated for burial purposes.

The Pioneer is also advertised "On sale!" $1,628 - $1,275 = $353 for years 2-3 warranty? Yeah, that would not be me. Once when I was young, I paid for extended warranty. Only once and we have saved tens of thousands $$,$$$ through the years! 🤣 Extremely low likelihood of failure in years 2-3 when a machine does not fail in the first year. https://www.qualitygurus.com/the-bathtub-curve-in-reliability/ I just have to decide now vs. later and would pick best price regardless of warranty. Will they get more or less expensive? Will a better model come out in the new year? I would have purchased the Atmos 2 years ago, if we still lived in FL or TX! The Turbro Greenland and Pioneer seem to be the same. However, the Pioneer outdoor unit is 4 LBS heavier. Turbro claims heat pump works down to 19F and Pioneer 28F. This one is likely just a website content error, but which is correct advertising?

Wish this had been true for WY and CO during June this year! 🤣

There are others here that know way more than me re electrical code and insurance regulations… My thinking, just based in logic, is the brake system is not fused for safety reasons! 🤣

Yes, as our friend @John Dorrer stated you already have the D52 axles. When the label states D52, you have the 5200 LB axles. Reason it states 3500 LBS is the factory build plan called for 3500 LB leaf springs. Just send Alcan your axle label picture and they will know your axles are A+ and with the Alcan leaf spring upgrade you’re good to go. Lucky you! 🤣

I have an itchy finger on biting the Turbo Greenland deal, but we do not need A/C for most of our travels. My wife Chris and I plan to watch YouTubes on this product tonight, hoping there are new ones but if you have not watched one yet, here is a goody. Best wishes, JD

SALE PRICE UPDATE!!! This inverter model is now down to $1275 plus tax with a $1499 sales price and 15% promo code. Free shipping and with AZ sales tax less than $1400 OTD! (And China tariffs are still in question.) The comparable Pioneer model is priced much higher. Will the Greenland be quiet enough? Is the power consumption low enough to run on LiFePO4 batteries? Time to pull the trigger? https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump

That's the real trick! You need to run two +/- 6 AWG cables (read from their spec) from the Oliver basement up to the rooftop. This unit also has an external power cord, so you would need to create a new waterproof entry for that to the rear of the 14x14" opening. You should talk to OTT for your hull and see what they say. I do a lot of mods and would not consider this. We will stay with 120VAC to reuse the 12 AWG 120VAC wiring. With all the turns and patches of insulation between hulls, I would think it would be extremely difficult to use the existing wiring to pull two new cables that would be somewhat thicker. This inverter model (not sure it's quiet enough, but very good on battery Ah) is now down to $1275 plus tax with a lower sales price and 15% promo code: https://www.turbro.com/products/greenland-13500-btu-inverter-rv-air-conditioner-with-heat-pump

Thanks Steve! Always look for issue with your most recent change.

Forum member near 5 years, now 1 post, no signature...

So when did OTT stop using ABS sewer pipe for PVC? Fancy! 🤣

Why just Texas? Dallas to Hohenwald 615 miles Miami to Hohenwald 960 miles Boston to Hohenwald 1180 miles Phoenix to Hohenwald 1590 miles Seattle to Hohenwald 2410 miles Personally, I believe OTT should have just left things alone and continued to retail their own trailers from their special factory location! 😂 Glad our hull is well beyond warranty years. I generally buy used and prefer to pay when we need work or do it myself. Warranty claims are a true pain as has been witnessed in many Oliver Forum threads. I talked to a Sales Manager here at Blue Compass RV, “now in 34 states.” This company bought out three locations of Affinity RV in our Prescott and surrounding valley areas that had been here for decades. He said, "You can't make money selling Olivers!" Not worth carrying the inventory for such a niche trailer when for every Oliver we can sell 10 Alliance, Forest River, Grand Design... and Winnebagos. Lots of Toy-haulers sold in the SW too! But he was trying to get me to trade in my Oliver on a fifth wheel, while I was dumping tanks at their location (a 35-ft 3 axle beast, no way)! There are likely more RV dealers in Phoenix and Mesa, across the desert valley down to Yuma AZ than any other market in the country. OTT has not been able to get one AZ-based dealer to carry their product.

Or the Ford issue that @Steph and Dud B cited. First thing to try is to test for voltage at the Ford F350 TV 7-blade connecter. Jump the BLUE and WHITE wires with a test light or meter while a friend applies the brake pedal then releases, on and off. @BoondockingAirstream you don't need another trailer. If it shows voltage, then test for amperage through the blue when connected. I believe @Geronimo John wrote that brakes at each wheel should draw 2-4A, so at the main harness it should show 4x this number when all 4 brakes are working. If you have 12VDC at the hitch and no amperage draw downstream to the trailer, then you have an open circuit along the path to the wheels. No brakes at all likely means your issue is not wiring at individual wheels or in the axles. It would be between the TT 7-blade connector and where it's connected to the first wheel in line.

Pilgrimage to the Mothership! 🤣

Good thought, If just the tab is missing you're done in 2 minutes!

This item is on my Christmas list! It costs the most meaning it's likely the best, smaller size, max power! 🤣

Groovy is a matter of opinion! 🤣 🤣 🤣