Wheels, model, warranty, care

[bugeyedriver]

You could connect your new and very accurate torque wrench to the old one you think might be wrong, and apply some opposing torque. A connector between the two square drives and pull one against the other. A nut screwed all the way onto a short bolt, and then a socket on each, will do it. When the new one clicks, see how far off the other one is. This will give you a reference as to how far off the old one might be. It might be 10% off, or ten ft lbs at 100 ft lbs, etc.

 

 

I couuuuuld . . . . . . . theoretically . . . . . . . very theoretically . . . . . .

 

:)

 

 

[Raspy]

Raspy wrote:

You could connect your new and very accurate torque wrench to the old one you think might be wrong, and apply some opposing torque. A connector between the two square drives and pull one against the other. A nut screwed all the way onto a short bolt, and then a socket on each, will do it. When the new one clicks, see how far off the other one is. This will give you a reference as to how far off the old one might be. It might be 10% off, or ten ft lbs at 100 ft lbs, etc.

I couuuuuld . . . . . . . theoretically . . . . . . . very theoretically . . . . . .

 

?

 

 

Nothing "theoretical" about it. Easy Peasy.  Takes about 10 seconds after you find the bolt and nut.  Then you'd know if the old one was accurate and you could use it with confidence.  One could live in the trailer and one in the shop, for instance. Or you'd confirm the old one was way off and should not be used.  Without testing the old one, and not trusting it, you might as well throw it away.

[Spike]

All I’ve got is a cheap one from Harbor Freight and I’ll be curious to see how accurate it is.

 

Please let us know the result of your calibration as well as the brand and model of the wrench. I suppose other relevant info--such as factors that might have affected the calibration or the accuracy of the wrench--would be helpful. (I am reluctant to spend $150.00 on a wrench.)

[bugeyedriver]

 

. . . (I am reluctant to spend $150.00 on a wrench.)

 

 

I don't consider it a $150 wrench, but a $150 accurate insurance policy, which is ever so important for those of us with only one wheel on each side.

 

 

[donthompson]

A couple of questions. I found the Precision 1/2" torque wrench many of you have purchased. I assume you needed to purchase an extender that you attach the socket to in order to use this torque wrench on the lug nuts on the wheels on the Olliver. Which one specifically did you buy? Also, I don't think I have 1/2" sockets. Any idea on the size of the sockets for the lug nuts, the Bulldog coupler and any bolts/nuts on the Dexter EZ Flex?

 

 

[bhncb]

Don:  Here’s a list of what you’ll need for each fastener. The coupler, spring shackles, and EZ-Flex pivot will require two wrenches. A socket on the torque wrench for the nuts, and some other type to apply opposing torque to the bolt heads so they don’t rotate.  This is critical for tightening the shackles and EZ-Flex pivot. I’d recommend standard chrome (non-impact) 6 point sockets as specified for each fastener.

 

Bulldog Coupler: 3/4” socket and a 3/4” combination wrench.  OTT says 80 ft lb.

 

Lug nuts: 3/4” DEEP socket with a short (3-6”) extension.  Dexter says 90-120 ft lb.

 

Spring shackles: 11/16” socket for nuts.  Use a 13/16” socket with a breaker bar close to the same length as your torque wrench to hold the heads.  You may need a deep socket to clear the grease fitting. Dexter says 30-50 ft lb.

 

EZ-FLEX center pivot (assumes at least one wheel removed): 7/8” socket with the short extension for the nut. The same 13/16” wrench you used for the shackles to hold the bolt head.  Dexter says 65-75 ft lb.

 

The chain hardware, auto, big box home, or farm supply stores all carry decent quality tools at competitive prices.

[bhncb]

Forgot to include the axle u-bolts.

 

Use the same 3/4" deep socket as for the lug nuts. Dexter says 70 ft lb.

[Spike]

Here’s a list of what you’ll need for each fastener.

 

Any opinions on using this universal socket? Would it somehow negatively affect the torque of the torque wrench?

[bhncb]

bhncb wrote:

Here’s a list of what you’ll need for each fastener.

Any opinions on using this universal socket? Would it somehow negatively affect the torque of the torque wrench?

 

As long as it can get a solid grip on the fastener (reviews are negative), it probably wouldn’t affect the torque reading. The biggest issues are: Since it is a 3/8” drive, the maximum torque it can handle is likely far below what would be useable. Certainly not in the 80-120 Ft Lb. range. Because of this limitation, the only fasteners it might be capable of are the spring shackle nuts. But you’ll need a 3/8”-1/2” square drive adapter to use it with your torque wrench. Since the maximum size fastener is 3/4”, you’re still going to need some larger sockets anyway.

Bottom line is save your money.

[Vector - Lanham]

Everything looks to be going well. Going to have a local semi-truck axle, trailer outfit fix the axles and, just like you suggest, it is most likely going back to Oliver to be gone over.  Jason and the Oliver crew have been good in this matter, just a bit delayed insurance (normal) and being occupied by the rally, which is just a timing thing.  I look forward to it being back to mint condition and am glad that it looks like Oliver will do the fiberglass work and check over any other work. Appreciate all the good advice from everyone.

[Vector - Lanham]

https://www.ruralking.com/dewalt-1-2-in-torque-wrench-dwmt75462?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_content=24460292&gclid=CjwKEAjw__fnBRCNpvH8iqy4xl4SJAC4XERPuNvj_4ZjzB2KOLnYuwcf37qVCmmsh0Lpy0foavdwthoC1Wzw_wcB

 

 

 

Saw that Dewalt tools now offers a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench...looks pretty good. around $100.

 

 

 

v/r, Vector

[Raspy]

[postquote quote=174037][/postquote]

Good Choice.

 

 

 

 

[Vector - Lanham]

Going down to pick up my trailer from the axle place and take it to Hohenwald for fiberglass work. The axles were orginally ordered but didn't meet spec, so a new set had to be ordered....we'll see how see she looks. I think it sits up a couple inches higher now, due to the axles which were available from Dexter...The tested it, says it pulls very nicely...they're a little heavier, so might be a touch different.

 

Have DeWalt Torque wrench and assorted sockets/extensions. Think I'll be set-up nicely.

 

Probably crash in the OTT at the office, and turn it in early Tuesday AM. We'll see how it goes.

 

Hopefully, get some Fall camping done.

 

Vector

[Raspy]

Probably crash in the OTT at the office, and turn it in early Tuesday AM.

Vector

 

 

Lanham, Don't say "crash"! Sheesh, once is enough! ?

 

Good luck on your trip.

 

[Vector - Lanham]

Hey Fellow Ollies:  It's been a while, since I  got on here: A few bullets:

• RIP Mr. Oliver, and thank you or bringing the Oliver Travel Trailers to the world.  
• I picked up my trailer from the axle place in September, then took it to Oliver in Hohenwald for the fiberglass repair work around September 15 2019 (crazy huh), the Oliver had it done by Oct or so, I can't quite recall at this time.  But, work, ice and family obligations prohibited me from picking it up and I had it on my schedule in March, but COVID.  Longstory short, I picked #129 up earlier this week.
• Jason, Anita and the crew couldn't have been nicer about the whole ordeal. in fact, i camped at the soon to be former sales office on the main drag, just down from the Walmart. 
• On the way home, I used my DeWalt lug wrench and 3/4 inch socket w/ extensions to check the lug nuts...snug as a bug. 
• Due to the location of the event, my new axles and hub were installed by Midwest Truck Inc. of Scott City, MO...they were terrific. They're in SE MO, just south of Cape Girardeu off of I-55. Just FYI, I ordered heavier axles from the 3500 Dexters to the 5200 Dexters.  Due to availability, they put in 5200 Lippert axles, which seem fine. I thought this might raise the height of the rig, but it has lowered the rig slightly, such that I will now use a dropped hitch ball (that i have) and i'll shelf the straight hitch ball, that plugs into my hitch receiver. The braking was probably improved, i did notice it seemed very responsive as the 5200 axles have 12 inch brakes, instead of the 10 inch brakes, which come on the OTTs these days. 
• There was some discoloration from the heat on the mounts, but i'm going to take take it over to a buddies shop and lightly sand and coat that with some good anti-corrosion.
• **Addendum 14 Oct 2014, When I got under there i noticed the pan was lifted up still, that the sewer host sits in on the port side, so I'll have to clean out some gravel that's yet up in there and get it over to a buddy's to see if we can weld that aluminum back.  Hope the sewer fitting isn't compromised, as it is on that side of the sewer hose compartment. Oliver did an excellent job on the fiberglass from what i can tell. the fender thing was gotne, adn the box that is open, was all sort of messed up, as was other material beneath.  We'll see how she holds up.  Nice to have her back. You an see the new axles, which are the 5200# Lippert Component variants.  I preferred Dexters at the time, though i confess to knowing shinola about axles, generally speaking.  I appreciate the good advice from my Oliver brothers on the forum, giving me some wisdom and pespective on everything.  it is a nice feeling knowing y'all are ready with experience, perspective,  know-how and a good / friendly attitude. Thank y'all.  
• The Rig tracked perfectly well. I forgot how much i like that back-up camera when you're driving it.
• It's time to clean out some seals and input some new caulking.  I'm all ears if you have some variant of 3M for that.
• The fiberglass looks good, though i'm going to give it a fuller inspection later this week.  Jason said they packed it on nice, and took their time and I'm sure they did. I was surprised how happy it made me to have the Oliver back in tow.
• I kinda expected some mold inside, but NOPE, not a bit, which made me quite happy, as my cushions and 1/2 my southern mattress were in there when i'd dropped it off a YEAR AGO.
• My kids slept in it in the driveway for the first two nights home.
• Btw, I'll need to get some #129 letters for the front. That'd be cool to have on there.  Any particular Font or Size for those letters?
• Okay, there is my brief update.  i'm looking for some Ozark camping spots tonight, get the kiddos and us in for some nature. 

With Respect, Vector/Lanham

 

 

Edited October 14, 2020 by vector
More information/photos.

[SeaDawg]

Welcome back, Vector!

[topgun2]

Yes, nice to have you back in the saddle. 

What an ordeal but it is gratifying to hear that all has turned out well in the end.

With regards to your numbers - give Jason or Anita a shout and I'm sure that they can get the size(s) and font for you.

Bill

[John E Davies]

4 hours ago, vector said:

 

• It's time to clean out some seals and input some new caulking.  I'm all ears if you have some variant of 3M for that.

Welcome back, for “removable” sealer I much much prefer this:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B07MMTDZGR

You can make very neat lines using blue masking tape, smooth the bead down with a gloved finger, remove tape. Pretty. It kicks off in the tube after a few months, so plan on a new one if yours gets a little old.

We néed pictures.

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

[Mike and Carol]

Welcome back, it has been a while.  Glad to hear things worked out.  I went back and re-read the entire thread, lots of good information here.  Mike

[MarylandDave]

I find these forums simultaneously comforting in that there is an impressive wealth of expertise and intimidating in that there are so many (potentially horrific) things that can go wrong, even on a well-made trailer. Then I realize that this is probably the engineer group of campers who like to a.) prepare for everything, and b.) explore and understand even the tiniest details, improving the design whenever possible. I just want to sit in the woods by a fire, not go down the road contemplating whether or not my axle is stout enough, or run around with a torque wrench at every gas station! 😜
 

Dumb question (okay, okay, there are no dumb questions) but is it not possible to use torque marks on lugs like electricians use for conductor terminations? At the very least you could rely upon those for quick visual inspections once happy lug stasis is achieved.

 

Thanks and apologies for being such a noob. Commence shaking heads ruefully. 
 

Dave

[bhncb]

27 minutes ago, MarylandDave said:

I just want to sit in the woods by a fire, not go down the road contemplating whether or not my axle is stout enough, or run around with a torque wrench at every gas station! 

Perhaps a tent or maybe a pickup camper would better suit your needs.😄 Tire, or axle bearing, failures are the most  prevalent breakdown cause while towing.  By checking wheel lug torque daily, along with tire pressures, you're also given to inspect the entire running gear for anything obvious. It's just best practices and insurance that provides comfort at the end of the day while sitting around the fire.

Your other assessments are probably well placed though and yes, position indicators on wheel lugs is widely used/often required on commercial big rigs.

[MarylandDave]

54 minutes ago, bhncb said:

Perhaps a tent or maybe a pickup camper would better suit your needs.😄 Tire, or axle bearing, failures are the most  prevalent breakdown cause while towing.  By checking wheel lug torque daily, along with tire pressures, you're also given to inspect the entire running gear for anything obvious. It's just best practices and insurance that provides comfort at the end of the day while sitting around the fire.

Your other assessments are probably well placed though and yes, position indicators on wheel lugs is widely used/often required on commercial big rigs.

My wife doesn’t do tents. Snakes. 😉

Thanks for your reply. I’m a detail person so I’m only half-kidding. 

[Daecart]

On a tangentially related topic to this thread. We had our bearings on one axel blow and had to have an full axel replaced. The bearings has been repacked the month before, so  we're not sure what happened.  But when the bearings blew we lost the little cover over on the hub (in photo below -  the black background with the O with lines in it. Not sure if its purely decorative or if it keeps dirt and grime out but I would be keen to replace it. 

Does anyone know what this piece is called (or which brand logo that is). I can't identify it. 

 

 

[Mike and Carol]

54 minutes ago, Daecart said:

On a tangentially related topic to this thread. We had our bearings on one axel blow and had to have an full axel replaced. The bearings has been repacked the month before, so  we're not sure what happened.  But when the bearings blew we lost the little cover over on the hub (in photo below -  the black background with the O with lines in it. Not sure if its purely decorative or if it keeps dirt and grime out but I would be keen to replace it. 

Does anyone know what this piece is called (or which brand logo that is). I can't identify it. 

 

 

Call Jason in service, Oliver special orders these covers.  I lost one last trip and Jason sent me a new one.  Not expensive, something like $5.  Mike

[Daecart]

11 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

Call Jason in service, Oliver special orders these covers.  I lost one last trip and Jason sent me a new one.  Not expensive, something like $5.  Mike

Thanks, Mike. That was my next stop. Will get in touch with them.