Front "storage" area under Dinette?

[Wayfinder]

Has anyone come up with a safe and reasonable solution to use the front-most area under the dinette site, next to bathroom?  I'm nervous to put anything in there due to the one inlet line going into the black tank.  Also, due to the mild odor in the hull, (not nasty, just different), all I can think of is storing soft, seasonal clothes in two heavy duty outdoor garbage bags, or a vacuum sealed bag.

I just don't want anything moving around in there, and should be very soft.  I was considering doing a mod of a nice pull-out box or bin of sorts.  Maybe a soft cooler, like the one under the table in this picture.  Again, I would want to keep that sealed in a heavy plastic bag too.

Ideas and threads are welcome.

Thanks,

Chris

[John E Davies]

How lovely for Oliver to just lay wire bundles over the frame right where you need to store items..... 

This has been working fine for one camping season. You could substitute materials, but the foam board is SUPER light weight, inexpensive, fire retardant, won't absorb water, and is easy to find at any box store. The big problem is what do you do with the unused material...?

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/5272-how-to-flat-foam-storage-tray-for-the-front-dinette-seat-compartment/

John Davies

Spokane WA

[topgun2]

Chris -

There have been a number of solutions/ideas for this area over the years.

Some people place a support of some sort to cover the wires and pipes and then store whatever in there.  I simply found a plastic container/bin that has a removable top and set it in there - it barely fits but I really do not take it out very often.  Mainly I use it to store extra food.

Bill

[Wayfinder]

Great ideas.

Also, while Wayfinder is in my so-called dry-dock this month for minor repairs and clean-up, I've been pushing air through the hull with a fan on the passenger-side bed area hatch, and keeping both dinette hatches open for exhaust, all windows are open.  This is in hopes of reducing some of the inner hull odors.  The good thing is it's not musty, just odors of older plastics, glues, and fiberglass, etc.  It's dry as a whistle otherwise.

I may have some fiber board around my GA house.  I certainly have plenty of extra Reflectix and 1/8 inch thin plywood. It's free and would make for a nice light-weight platform.

Chris

[John E Davies]

15 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

I may have some fiber board around my GA house.  I certainly have plenty of extra Reflectix and 1/8 inch thin plywood. It's free and would make for a nice light-weight platform.

Chris

Chris, read all of that thread, you need to build up the frame rail at least 2" to clear wires and provide a level platform. That gets it above the height of the big waste water pipe.

John Davies

Spokane WA

[topgun2]

15 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

I certainly have plenty of extra Reflectix and 1/8 inch thin plywood.

Great - take some of that Reflectix and add insulation wherever you can get it.  Both this area and inside the areas near both wheel wells are easy to get to.  Don't forget about the underside of the access hatches - not only does this help with temperatures but it also tends to reduce noise - like from the water pump.

Bill

[Minnesota Oli]

This is what I used this space for.

 

[Overland]

I keep my inverter in that space, which on its own probably isn't helpful info, but to do so I attached some 1x2 PVC strips crosswise (scraping the insulation away where needed and attaching them to the fiberglass with epoxy), then screwed a removable mounting board onto those strips.  The strips provide clearance for the wiring loom(s) that goes over the 'hump' (I'd advise grouping the mess of wires together and wrapping them while you're at it), and with multiple strips you should also get the mounting board over the plumbing (mine was stolen by gypsies so I didn't have to worry about it).  That will give you a nice, flat surface for storage, with the plumbing valve being the only thing remaining that could be damaged, but it's pretty tough.  Here's what mine looks like, but obviously you could make the board as large as you want -

[Mike and Carol]

I have a plastic bin/Tupperware on the left side of the space that contains spare parts, fuses, tape, and other odds and ends.  It doesn’t move at all, that’s over several years.  On top of it, we have a large first aid kit and a fanny pack.  To the right, closer to the bath we have a cloth shopping bag filled with spare paper towels and toilet paper.  It stays pretty secure as well, but is very lightweight so I don’t worry about it.  Mike

[GraniteStaters]

We store extra paper towels and TP in there, in a cloth bag, also an extra set of towels and washcloths in a nylon zippered packing cube. It is all soft and light weight so we haven't made any sort of platform. Seems to be working so far. Paula

[1Lessworker]

I made a sheet metal box to fit in the space but not hit or rub on any wires or tubing. It is suspended from the flange so it can not drop down. It is easy to remove and reinstall. 

[Cameron]

On 9/29/2021 at 4:43 PM, 1Lessworker said:

I made a sheet metal box to fit in the space but not hit or rub on any wires or tubing. It is suspended from the flange so it can not drop down. It is easy to remove and reinstall. 

that's genius! how do i do that?

[VBistro]

15 hours ago, Cameron said:

that's genius! how do i do that?

Thinking the same thing!  If only I were handy....

 

[topgun2]

If you live near even a small town (8,000 people) there is probably a sheet metal shop near you.  Simply take measurements, make a rough drawing of what you want and take it to them.  You don't need "handy", you don't need talent and you don't need equipment - all you need is money.  😃

Bill

[Patwv]

On 9/29/2021 at 7:43 PM, 1Lessworker said:

I made a sheet metal box to fit in the space but not hit or rub on any wires or tubing. It is suspended from the flange so it can not drop down. It is easy to remove and reinstall. 

That is very nice.  I like the floor in your Oliver too.

[1Lessworker]

VBristo & Cameron: Most any heating company could make you one. Just have to fit-check it once made to see if it will hit wires or valves & the fiberglass  cover will not rock around. Because i worked for a  HVACR company and had installed LOTS of furnaces and AC units, I had experience  in fabricating sheet metal fittings. Because of the small size 26ga or 24ga metal is fine.

 

[VBistro]

12 hours ago, topgun2 said:

If you live near even a small town (8,000 people) there is probably a sheet metal shop near you.  Simply take measurements, make a rough drawing of what you want and take it to them.  You don't need "handy", you don't need talent and you don't need equipment - all you need is money.  😃

Bill

Thanks, Bill.

May I ask what gauge sheet metal you used?  Imagine too thick, and the dinette seat might be affected.

EDIT: OOps!  Just saw your other post!

 

mb

Edited October 3, 2021 by VBistro
didn't see a [post in the thread

[SeaDawg]

You could always mock it up with cardboard.  

[dhaig]

On 10/2/2021 at 3:52 PM, 1Lessworker said:

VBristo & Cameron: Most any heating company could make you one. Just have to fit-check it once made to see if it will hit wires or valves & the fiberglass  cover will not rock around. Because i worked for a  HVACR company and had installed LOTS of furnaces and AC units, I had experience  in fabricating sheet metal fittings. Because of the small size 26ga or 24ga metal is fine.

 

Very clever design.  Could you please post the dimensions of the insert box?