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How To Install a Rear Cargo Carrier on an Oliver Legacy Elite II


dhaig

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@dhaig  Your cargo carrier and mounting solution looks very robust, well planned and based on your 2000 mile test run, very functional.  Thank you for the detailed write up which even I could follow and other OTTO’s can use to their advantage and solve their own cargo carrying limitations.

Mossey

 

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Mike and Krunch   Lutz, FL  
2017 LEII #193 “the dog house”

 

 

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Bravo, very nice, and what a great description. I have a couple of comments, since I can’t seem to leave the back end of “Mouse” alone.

Using wood for mocking up is a neat idea. Did you write the actual dimensions on the pieces before dropping them off at the machine shop? The shop needs quite precise measurements. Relying on your holes in wood might not be precise enough.

Drain holes? This can be a super wet part of the trailer, each part needs two openings, at a minimum, for water to escape. (I leave my parts wide open and simply blast them with water when washing the trailer.) A little moisture will naturally escape from the bolt holes, even with the hardware in place, but those will eventually plug up with debris and corrosion. A hole at each end of each cross beam allows water to egress regardless of the angle of the trailer. And do not forget to add some to the Ollie bumper, the factory does not drill any! Be prepared for water to flow out onto your drill, so drop the bumper down first.

I really like your annotated images. That is very easy to do with an iMac or iPhone, I don’t have a clue how you would do it with a PC or SOB phone. What did you use?

Thanks for posting such an informative thread. I think members should be aware of how much work is involved in doing an article like this.

John Davies

Spokane WA

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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Don - 

Nicely done with a great description.

Thanks for posting it!

Bill

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2023 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5EB FX4 Max Towing, Max Payload, 2016 Oliver Elite II - Hull #117 "Twist"

Near Asheville, NC

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1 hour ago, John E Davies said:

Bravo, very nice, and what a great description. I have a couple of comments, since I can’t seem to leave the back end of “Mouse” alone.

Using wood for mocking up is a neat idea. Did you write the actual dimensions on the pieces before dropping them off at the machine shop? The shop needs quite precise measurements. Relying on your holes in wood might not be precise enough.

Drain holes? This can be a super wet part of the trailer, each part needs two openings, at a minimum, for water to escape. (I leave my parts wide open and simply blast them with water when washing the trailer.) A little moisture will naturally escape from the bolt holes, even with the hardware in place, but those will eventually plug up with debris and corrosion. A hole at each end of each cross beam allows water to egress regardless of the angle of the trailer. And do not forget to add some to the Ollie bumper, the factory does not drill any! Be prepared for water to flow out onto your drill, so drop the bumper down first.

I really like your annotated images. That is very easy to do with an iMac or iPhone, I don’t have a clue how you would do it with a PC or SOB phone. What did you use?

Thanks for posting such an informative thread. I think members should be aware of how much work is involved in doing an article like this.

John Davies

Spokane WA

@John E Davies, Thanks, John, for kind words.  Thanks also for reviewing and commenting on my design approach.  In answer to your questions:

  • Yes, I did write the dimensions on the wooden mockup pieces.  As I mentioned in my writeup, I also took one of the original support arms to the machine shop and explained the most critical dimensions are for the horizontal holes through which the clevis pins pass to secure the arms to the receivers and the vertical slot.  I had initially assumed I would need to provide dimensional drawings to the machine shop.  However, when I asked if they needed drawings, they said no, the dimensions on the wooden mockups and having the original support arm were sufficient.
  • Thanks for reminding me to drill drain holes!  I had planned to do so, largely from reading some of your write-ups.  I agree with the need for them.  This is relatively easy to do with the support structure in place.
  • I composed the article initially using the Safari browser interface for Gmail on my MacBook Pro M1 laptop (MBP).  I used Gmail because I am very familiar with its behavior, particularly the autosave function.  I had to break the article into two draft emails when I reached the 25 MB limit of Gmail, after which it loads images to Google Drive.  I wanted the images kept in place in the text flow.
    • Once I completed composition and proofreading I copied the contents of both draft emails into a new topic page in the owners forum.  Not having previously composed a long article directly in the new topic page, I was concerned about possible loss of content before completion.
    • All of the photos were taken with my iPhone 13 Pro Max, which automatically stores the images in Apple's Photos/iCloud.  I created a smart collection in the Photos using keywords, to make it easier to see all of the related photos together.  I selected photos for inclusion in the article and exported them as JPEGs to the Downloads folder on my MBP.
    • I used Apple's Preview app on my MBP to do some minor cropping of the photos and used the annotation features to add arrows, circles and text.  I got lazy and used a grey filled rectangle to mask the license plate in a few photos, rather than take the photos into Photoshop for a more elegant edit.  The Preview app is surprisingly robust.  I do not know of any comparable utility in the Windows or Android worlds.  I have previously used Window PCs extensively, but the Android world is foreign to me. 
    • I suspect you use a similar annotation process, having seen many of your annotated photos.
  • Finally, yes, posting informative articles is time consuming.  I spent most of the day yesterday drafting and editing.  I also found I needed to take a few more photos yesterday, in addition to those taken during work on the project.  I also had to confirm some measurements and materials details.  I have benefitted significantly from reading your well crafted articles and those of many other contributors to the forum.  I feel an obligation to contribute.

Regards, Don

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spacer.pngNorth Texas | 2022 LEII, Hull #990, delivered 2/17/22 | 2014 BMW X5 35d

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/4/2022 at 7:14 AM, John E Davies said:

Bravo, very nice, and what a great description. I have a couple of comments, since I can’t seem to leave the back end of “Mouse” alone.

Using wood for mocking up is a neat idea. Did you write the actual dimensions on the pieces before dropping them off at the machine shop? The shop needs quite precise measurements. Relying on your holes in wood might not be precise enough.

Drain holes? This can be a super wet part of the trailer, each part needs two openings, at a minimum, for water to escape. (I leave my parts wide open and simply blast them with water when washing the trailer.) A little moisture will naturally escape from the bolt holes, even with the hardware in place, but those will eventually plug up with debris and corrosion. A hole at each end of each cross beam allows water to egress regardless of the angle of the trailer. And do not forget to add some to the Ollie bumper, the factory does not drill any! Be prepared for water to flow out onto your drill, so drop the bumper down first.

I really like your annotated images. That is very easy to do with an iMac or iPhone, I don’t have a clue how you would do it with a PC or SOB phone. What did you use?

Thanks for posting such an informative thread. I think members should be aware of how much work is involved in doing an article like this.

John Davies

Spokane WA

Re John's comment to drill drain holes in the bumper, do you have a thread on that recommendation?

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Albert & Terri Sterns

Paonia, Colorado

Elite II Hull #1125 Standard Floorplan / 2017 Ford F250 gas

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What a great write-up!  Thanks for sharing this - we've been contemplating a rear carrier since we picked up Hull 953 and I sure do like how robust this is.

mb

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MaryBeth
Boulder, CO

2022 Elite II #953
TV: 2021 Ford Expedition Max Platinum, Max Tow Package

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Don,

I don’t have a rear cargo carrier, but if I were to consider one, your design looks great.
Well done sir!

-David

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2020 OLEII - Hull #634 aka-  “XPLOR”

2021 F350 6.7 liter Diesel Lariat Ultimate Tremor 

North Carolina 🇺🇸

 

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On 6/19/2022 at 1:13 AM, albert60 said:

Re John's comment to drill drain holes in the bumper, do you have a thread on that recommendation?

Unfortunately, no, there is not, to my knowledge, a thread on drain/weep holes.  @John E Davies may be able to offer more details, especially given his experience dealing with structural elements on aircraft.

My understanding is that any buildup of water within a structural element is a a potential source for failure of the structural element in the event the water freezes.  Such failure is most likely to occur when the trailer is subjected to sustained sub-freezing weather.  For the rear bumper and the extended support arms under my cargo carrier, I plan to drill ¼” weep holes to allow any trapped moisture to escape.

Since I live in Dallas, TX,I believe the prospect of freeze damage to be relatively low.  However, in February, 2021, we experienced the “Texas deep freeze”, with temperatures at or below 0 degrees Fahrenheit for a week.  The cost or prevention is low.  I will drill the weep holes, but probably not until mid-September, when the daily high temperatures are no longer near 100 deg. F.  I see no downside to having the weep holes to allow the moisture to escape.

 

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spacer.pngNorth Texas | 2022 LEII, Hull #990, delivered 2/17/22 | 2014 BMW X5 35d

 

 

 

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On 6/18/2022 at 10:13 PM, albert60 said:

Re John's comment to drill drain holes in the bumper, do you have a thread on that recommendation?

Sorry, I missed this, there isn't a thread about it, as far as I know. It is just common sense that any "dead end" part that can potentially collect water, should have at least a couple of weep holes underneath to allow it to escape, one at each end of the bumper, for example. For the bike rack mount, the big cross beam has through holes in it, to attach the square receiver, and just like for the bumper, Oliver added pretty decorative end caps to the beam. The big mount holes will allow a little moisture to trickle out around the washers and nuts, but eventually those gaps will fill with dirt and corrosion. Did they add dedicated drain holes in the bottom? I dunno. Freezing is a concern, as is long term corrosion.

If you see standing water on any part of your Ollie, you should take steps to stop it. Both of the entry steps, for example, hold water on top when stowed; you can drill some 1/8" holes in the low spots to eliminate that. The first Ollie awning support bracket was a simple L shape, that was fine though maybe prone to developing cracks at the bend. The first redesign of the bracket had a welded triangular gusset. It would stop any cracks but trapped water, and it is up on the roof where an owner couldn't see it. A second redesign had the triangle tip cut off, providing a channel for the water to go away on its own. I don't know if that part has further changed 😉 It is a sign that Oliver continually updates and refines stuff, based on owner experiences and feedback.

It would be really nice if there were a webpage dedicated to keeping track of the evolutionary changes to various parts, to educate and to alert owners that they might have a problematic part. The Ollie Service Department knows all this, and can advise, but the information isn't available to owners, as far as I know...

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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12 hours ago, John E Davies said:

Sorry, I missed this, there isn't a thread about it, as far as I know. It is just common sense that any "dead end" part that can potentially collect water, should have at least a couple of weep holes underneath to allow it to escape, one at each end of the bumper, for example. For the bike rack mount, the big cross beam has through holes in it, to attach the square receiver, and just like for the bumper, Oliver added pretty decorative end caps to the beam. The big mount holes will allow a little moisture to trickle out around the washers and nuts, but eventually those gaps will fill with dirt and corrosion. Did they add dedicated drain holes in the bottom? I dunno. Freezing is a concern, as is long term corrosion.

If you see standing water on any part of your Ollie, you should take steps to stop it. Both of the entry steps, for example, hold water on top when stowed; you can drill some 1/8" holes in the low spots to eliminate that. The first Ollie awning support bracket was a simple L shape, that was fine though maybe prone to developing cracks at the bend. The first redesign of the bracket had a welded triangular gusset. It would stop any cracks but trapped water, and it is up on the roof where an owner couldn't see it. A second redesign had the triangle tip cut off, providing a channel for the water to go away on its own. I don't know if that part has further changed 😉 It is a sign that Oliver continually updates and refines stuff, based on owner experiences and feedback.

It would be really nice if there were a webpage dedicated to keeping track of the evolutionary changes to various parts, to educate and to alert owners that they might have a problematic part. The Ollie Service Department knows all this, and can advise, but the information isn't available to owners, as far as I know...

John Davies

Spokane WA

 

 

Picked up our E2 on June 3, looked at the awning brackets and they still have cut off the point of the triangle in the bracket so water can pass through. I was a little disappointed that the hole was so small, about 1/4 inch, but better than nothing I suppose. It's a place I plan on monitoring a few times a year especially when there's any risk of freezing. Thanks for the input John.

 

albert

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Albert & Terri Sterns

Paonia, Colorado

Elite II Hull #1125 Standard Floorplan / 2017 Ford F250 gas

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  • 10 months later...
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A really nice post! This is exactly what I was thinking about doing to haul two bikes by using 1Up USA tray carriers on the aluminum tubes. Looks like it will do exactly what I want given your pictures and the bikes only way about 70 pounds total. Thanks for all of the information!

2021 LE II - Hull 922 - "Ollie Be Back"

2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax

Hugo & Penny

Bob & Cash (the pups)

 

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33 minutes ago, Half Fast Hugo said:

A really nice post! This is exactly what I was thinking about doing to haul two bikes by using 1Up USA tray carriers on the aluminum tubes. Looks like it will do exactly what I want given your pictures and the bikes only way about 70 pounds total. Thanks for all of the information!

FYI, 

IMG_3859.thumb.jpeg.c02ce239f64cac11333da71f9a5f205d.jpeg

John Davies

Spokane WA

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SOLD 07/23 "Mouse":  2017 Legacy Elite II Two Beds, Hull Number 218, See my HOW TO threads: 

Tow Vehicle: 2013 Land Cruiser 200, 32” LT tires, airbags, Safari snorkel, Maggiolina Grand Tour 360 Carbon RTT.

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  • 9 months later...
On 6/27/2023 at 8:48 PM, John E Davies said:

FYI, 

IMG_3859.thumb.jpeg.c02ce239f64cac11333da71f9a5f205d.jpeg

John Davies

Spokane WA

John, are you able to remove yours easily? Now that I have the trailer out of winter storage, I'm debating doing something like you did or whether or not to use the existing receivers in case I'm not bringing our bikes and want to slide it off. It also looks like the receivers would be really tight fit for the 2" square tubing if I didn't haven some milled off each side. Looking at the dimensions of mine, it doesn't look like just rounding the corners will do it. Thanks!

2021 LE II - Hull 922 - "Ollie Be Back"

2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax

Hugo & Penny

Bob & Cash (the pups)

 

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1 hour ago, Half Fast Hugo said:

John, are you able to remove yours easily? Now that I have the trailer out of winter storage, I'm debating doing something like you did or whether or not to use the existing receivers in case I'm not bringing our bikes and want to slide it off. It also looks like the receivers would be really tight fit for the 2" square tubing if I didn't haven some milled off each side. Looking at the dimensions of mine, it doesn't look like just rounding the corners will do it. Thanks!

John sold his trailer and is not on the forum very often.  Your best bet is to send him a PM with your question.  Mike

Texas Hill Country | 2016 Elite II #135 | 2020 Ram 2500 6.7L

ALAZARCACOFLGAIDILKSKYLAMDMSMOMTNENVNMNYNCNDOHOKSCSDTNTXUTVAWVWYsm.jpgALAZARCACOCTDEFLGAIDILINIAKSKYLAMEMDMAMS

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Half Fast Hugo said:

It also looks like the receivers would be really tight fit for the 2" square tubing if I didn't haven some milled off each side. Looking at the dimensions of mine, it doesn't look like just rounding the corners will do it. Thanks!

Aluminum tubing is not measured like steel tubing. Two inches ID or OD is EXACTLY two inches. They WILL NOT slide into each other. You will need to mill 1/32" off each face of the male tube to make it fit. Even then, if the receivers are not perfectly parallel, the cross member will still not go in very easily. I solved that problem by over sizing the four bolt holes for the receivers and used nylock nuts left very slightly loose. There's just enough play to make them go in, a little spray lub won't hurt.

Edited by ScubaRx
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Steve, Tali and our dog Rocky plus our beloved Storm, Lucy, Maggie and Reacher (all waiting at the Rainbow Bridge)

2008 Legacy Elite I - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #026 | 2014 Legacy Elite II - Outlaw Oliver, Hull #050 | 2022 Silverado High Country 3500HD SRW Diesel 4x4 

 

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56 minutes ago, ScubaRx said:

Aluminum tubing is not measured like steel tubing. Two inches ID or OD is EXACTLY two inches. They WILL NOT slide into each other. You will need to mill 1/32" off each face of the male tube to make it fit. Even then, if the receivers are not perfectly parallel, the cross member will still not go in very easily. I solved that problem by over sizing the four bolt holes for the receivers and used nylock nuts left very slightly loose. There's just enough play to make them go in, a little spray lub won't hurt.

Right! I was measuring some with my calipers a few days ago as I thought that was the case since the aluminum is extruded. I want the ability to take the rack on and off so milling some material off is probably my best option for how I want to build it.

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2021 LE II - Hull 922 - "Ollie Be Back"

2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax

Hugo & Penny

Bob & Cash (the pups)

 

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1 hour ago, Mike and Carol said:

John sold his trailer and is not on the forum very often.  Your best bet is to send him a PM with your question.  Mike

Thanks! I remember him selling it but wasn't sure if he was still visiting. Much appreciated!

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2021 LE II - Hull 922 - "Ollie Be Back"

2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax

Hugo & Penny

Bob & Cash (the pups)

 

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On 6/21/2022 at 8:04 PM, Leftwinger said:

Very good job on the carrier actually more than good it’s excellent.  Now you mentioned that you had a separate article on the wiring of the 4 pin wire I’m not able to find it. Your help would be greatly appreciated. 

@Leftwinger, I missed seeing your request for an article on the installation of the 4 pin wiring harness to provide lights for our rear mounted cargo carrier.  I have not gotten around to writing the article.  However, if you still would like the details, send me a PM and I will respond.

Regards, Don

spacer.pngNorth Texas | 2022 LEII, Hull #990, delivered 2/17/22 | 2014 BMW X5 35d

 

 

 

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