Bathroom Vanity Cubby Modification

[dewdev]

As an update to my previous post, after a email discussion with Frank C, we noted that the existing wall was too thick to accept the specified barrel nuts and let the thumb screws go in straight. I contacted McMaster and they did not really have any good option with a barrel nut that had a larger gap, I took the vanity cover apart and removed the barrel nuts. I then used a grinder on the inside of the wall to make the area where the barrel nuts touched thinner. Using new barrel nuts, the installation was a lot better with the thumb screws going in straight so that the washer set correctly to seal off the opening.

Hope this helps anyone that will be making this modification.

[Geronimo John]

Would Rivet Nuts worked as well?

GJ

[rich.dev]

1 hour ago, Geronimo John said:

 

Would Rivet Nuts worked as well

 

Should work, plusnut is another option. The flange on a rivnut is fairly small, a pre-bulb plusnut expands significantly more than a rivnut when compressed. And plusnuts are not as critical with the hole diameter as rivnuts, so a great option for fibreglass I think.

[KenB]

8 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Would Rivet Nuts worked as well?

I've installed several dozen rivnuts and would not consider installing them in a fiberglass hole.  They take too much effort to expand and I think they would at a minimum bulge the surrounding fiberglass.

7 hours ago, rich.dev said:

Should work, plusnut is another option. The flange on a rivnut is fairly small, a pre-bulb plusnut expands significantly more than a rivnut when compressed. And plusnuts are not as critical with the hole diameter as rivnuts, so a great option for fibreglass I think.

I wasn't familiar with these, but looked them up.  I especially agree that the aluminum version would be great solution.  The literature specifically mentions use in fiberglass as an application.  If you have a Rivnut installation tool I bet it would work with these too.

[Steve Morris]

Here is a rivet specifically designed for plastic. Grip range is .02" to .32", but you'd have to step up to a #10 fastener. I don't know if the vanity wall fits into that range. I have no idea if/how these would work for fiberglass, but since they are designed for plastic, I'm assuming that it would put a lot less radial load on the material.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rivet-nuts/for-use-in~plastic-2/

 

[Geronimo John]

I like either the suggested plusnut or Rivet Nuts for Plastic and Composites solutions better than a rivet nut for your project.  

I have used rivet nuts in fiberglass, but always put a washer on the back side before crushing.  The washer spreads the load and greatly reduces the potential for pullout indued cracking from the back side. 

The use of a washer with either of these two other methods would also be suggested if any significant loads are anticipated as required by a specific application.  For this project of course not needed. 

GJ 

[rich.dev]

These should also work well for this application.

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/QTPdcUrjpg3mfQu2/?mibextid=I6gGtw

[MAX Burner]

After routing wires and an Ethernet cable under the vanity into the closet for the Starlink system, it was time to finish up the “Cubby Mod”.  Used some available 3/16” plywood from another project to fashion a shelf and bulkhead to help organize storage.  Rattle-canned a white enamel coating and - poof!  One and done:

Added 2 extra layers of insulation while in there. 

Cheers!

[shhQuiet]

I love the extra faucet and dedicated shower, that definitely has me thinking... 🤔

[Geronimo John]

On 1/1/2024 at 9:34 AM, rich.dev said:

Should work, plusnut is another option. The flange on a rivnut is fairly small, a pre-bulb plusnut expands significantly more than a rivnut when compressed. And plusnuts are not as critical with the hole diameter as rivnuts, so a great option for fibreglass I think.

I've looked into the PlusNuts and agree they will be a better choice for our Ollie Fiberglass needs.  Were you using steel or aluminum ones?  What size? source?

Thanks for the idea and for posting.

GJ

[rich.dev]

8 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

Were you using steel or aluminum ones?  What size? source?

I used SS ones, but if I had to do it over I would use aluminum or THESE in size M5x25. I found the SS ones were tough to bulge/seat propery, but I think it was because of the homemade tool I used! 

[Geronimo John]

Per your reference, I checked Splendiday.com and order out a set of them.  Their design uses four "Petals" vs. most others that have just three.  I like that.

I've used rivet (Blind Flush Nuts as my GrandPa called them) nuts for many decades and they can be a PITA for fiberglass just as you stated.  Also for plastic IMHO.

Thanks for the suggestion. 

GJ  

 

[AlbertNTerri]

Wow, what a great use of space, very elegantly done, you've set quite a high bar for me to duplicate. I hope mine looks a nice as that when I get around to doing it. I'm thinking I'll add some shelving as well. That will really help tidy up the bathroom stuff/ cleaning supplies, a whole bunch of potential things can be stored in there. Thanks for sharing the mod!!

albert

[dewdev]

On 2/19/2024 at 8:32 AM, AlbertNTerri said:

Wow, what a great use of space, very elegantly done, you've set quite a high bar for me to duplicate. I hope mine looks a nice as that when I get around to doing it. I'm thinking I'll add some shelving as well. That will really help tidy up the bathroom stuff/ cleaning supplies, a whole bunch of potential things can be stored in there. Thanks for sharing the mod!!

albert

Hopefull the added insulation board is not a problem in keeping the area under the sink warm enough so the piping does not freeze.

[mossemi]

13 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Per your reference, I checked Splendiday.com and order out a set of them.  Their design uses four "Petals" vs. most others that have just three.  I like that.

I experimented with these on a scrape of OTT fiberglass for a mod I had in mind.   I used a long bolt a couple of nuts and a pair of wrenches to crush them.  I believe they are a worthy product for an anchor/mounting point in or outside of an Ollie.  I still haven’t completed it, but it’s still on the list

Mossey

[rich.dev]

17 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

 

Per your reference, I checked Splendiday.com and order out a set of them.  Their design uses four "Petals" vs. most others that have just three.  I like that.

 

And replace those screws with knurled m5x25 thumb screws and these o-rings, I used these SS knurled thumb screws, but you also get white plastic knurled head thumb screws.

[Geronimo John]

GI NOTE:  For the Bathroom Cubby install, the below does not apply to this install.    For the anchor point install it would apply.

For applications where you can somehow get to the back side here are two considerations:

• For high load applications, or ones that will be subject to strong vibrations, insert the Petal nut, then place a fender washer on the uncrushed nut.  Then crush it.  Doing so will greatly reduce fiberglass cracking and strength of the attachment. 
• If you will be needing to unbolt the attachment, add a dab of adhesive to the crush zones of the Petal nut.  Once crushed and cured, the bolt can be removed and you'll not lose the Petal Nut in the back space. 

GI Edit:  The pedal nut will not fall out so edited the use of adhesive.   Obvious brain fart!

[mossemi]

2 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

The below does not apply to this install. 

I thought you and rich.dev were discussing plusnuts installed in fiberglass.

Mossemi

[Ronbrink]

18 hours ago, mossemi said:

I believe they are a worthy product for an anchor/mounting point in or outside of an Ollie.

An alternative, especially for inside use, would be this self-adhesive hook cleat. The adhesive pad is clear and very strong; placed one on each side of my LifeSaver Jerrycan. 

 

[Steve Morris]

3 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

An alternative, especially for inside use, would be this self-adhesive hook cleat.

Handy little item, there! I just ordered four. 

We keep the Jerrycan in the passenger footwell of the truck when at camp, and in the bathroom next to the toilet when travelling. This looks like a better option. Have you travelled with the Jerrycan full, or do you empty it? That's a lot of weight if full.

I'll put the second pair on the wall under the dinette table to secure things that we stick under there while on the road. (The last trip was a box of wine and booze. I wedged it in with an empty duffle and towels. Gotta protect that precious cargo!)

[Geronimo John]

15 hours ago, mossemi said:

I thought you and rich.dev were discussing plusnuts installed in fiberglass.

Mossemi

You are correct as Mossemi appears to be using them as an anchor point!   And it would apply.  For the Bathroom cubby it would be a waste of fender washers as they are not high load or vibration applications.

[Ronbrink]

57 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

Have you travelled with the Jerrycan full, or do you empty it? That's a lot of weight if full.

Yes, that is where staged when full whether in storage, traveling or camping; does not hamper ingress or egress, and hugs the wall under a waste bin. I have the optional shower accessory connected for convenience in filling water bottles, measured water for coffee, ice trays while sitting on the counter below the microwave, and even a quick outside rinse, as necessary. The shower handle holder is a similar adhesive product. I suggest using the blue painter’s tape to mark exactly where to adhere for proper positioning and levelness; it will save you some frustration!

[mossemi]

56 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

For the Bathroom cubby it would be a waste of fender washers as they are not high load or vibration applications.

I replaced the vanity towel bar/access cover with a marine hatch as several others have done.  I used screws and nylon insert lock nuts to mount my hatch.  If you follow @Frank C's installation and reuse the original vanity towel bar/access cover, I don't think you can beat his use of U nuts.  I wish he had completed his version before I did mine, because I prefer his method!

Mossey

[Steve Morris]

28 minutes ago, Ronbrink said:

Yes, that is where staged when full whether in storage, traveling or camping

Thanks! From previous posts I knew that's where you kept it for everyday use. I was mostly concerned if the attachments held the 45 pounds snugly while travelling. That's where I'll mount ours for travelling, then! That will be a lot more convenient getting it in and out than in the head.

For actual use, we don't use the Jerrycan daily. We leave the house with four square plastic 1-gallon jugs of filtered water (from our home Berkey) and then refill them from the Jerrycan on the road as needed. These in turn are stored in the closet and get dumped into a pitcher we keep on the counter for everyday use. This is a carryover from how we used it in our Hiker square back trailer, with its extremely limited storage. 

[Ronbrink]

6 minutes ago, Steve Morris said:

For actual use, ……….

I fill the LifeSaver Jerrycan and the Oliver’s freshwater tank with ‘home’ water prior to a trip departure; LSJ for consumption, freshwater tank for everything else. When the LSJ runs low it is refilled from the freshwater tank. This current system replaced having to bring a 3-gallon spout container of filtered water for initial countertop use, and the Travel Berkey for refilling, which is time consuming and cumbersome! In doing so, the footprint/stowage of the water management system is greatly reduced with an increase in onboard water supply. I too do not like change, unless for the betterment, all part of my Oliver Evolution!