My how-to video for cleaning the weep holes and tracks

[Wayfinder]

This is neither Mechanical nor Technical, but more maintenance.  Not sure what other channel to place this.  Hope it helps our new-comers.

Someone on the Oliver Owners Facebook page saw my first video and asked me if I could video record actually how to clean the tracks under the windows.  So, it was a beautiful day and I figured I'd see if I can clean and record at the same time.  This is kind of new to me.

https://youtu.be/-oEpon3iaPc

 

[Katjo]

Chris, I just posted about this earlier and posted the YouTube video. It is such a great video and so very helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make it.

[ScubaRx]

3 hours ago, Wayfinder said:

This is neither Mechanical nor Technical, but more maintenance.  Not sure what other channel to place this.  Hope it helps our new-comers.

Someone on the Oliver Owners Facebook page saw my first video and asked me if I could video tape actually how to clean the tracks under the windows.  So, it was a beautiful day and I figured I'd see if I can clean and record at the same time.  This is kind of new to me.

https://youtu.be/-oEpon3iaPc

 

Thanks for taking the time to make this video and then making it public. That rubber inner track is easy to remove and replace. It will also allow you to remove the slider window from the frame and clean it well. Will you be at the rally in May?

[Wayfinder]

8 hours ago, ScubaRx said:

Thanks for taking the time to make this video and then making it public. That rubber inner track is easy to remove and replace. It will also allow you to remove the slider window from the frame and clean it well. Will you be at the rally in May?

I will be at the rally, yes!  I'm looking forward to it.  I was on the fence about it (maybe nervous), but then I took the Oliver out two weekends ago and had a great time, even with a 3.7% slope to park on.  Ah, bring on the adventures.  I'm trying to ensure my Ollie is not too embarrassing.  I'm afraid there's a secret "barracks inspection" for all new-comers to the rally.  So I'm basically doing a "GI party" on it (Army slang for deep clean).

There are a few things I still need to do, like, as mentioned in the video, order new blinds, but also remove the walk-in door to reseal it, and replace an electrical plug by the bed. But other than that, everything was working out great while camping.   * I just realized I failed to test the A/C while at the camp ground.  Well, I know the heater works at least.  LOL

I better inspect the A/C unit for bird nests, even though I have magnets holding up a screen blocking the large openings.  

 

[topgun2]

45 minutes ago, Wayfinder said:

I'm afraid there's a secret "barracks inspection" for all new-comers to the rally. 

I thought that THIS was a secret.

Just wait around for THAT knock on the door at zero dark thirty!  It will normally be General ScubaRX doing the inspection - don't even think about giving him the ol' "side eye".  And, yes, it is white glove!  😜

[Wayfinder]

Now I need to dig deeper for dirt.  I just need to get a "Go" and not a "No-Go" at this station.  LOL

 

[RoadKingsofGA]

Well, I was so inspired by your video, I went right out this morning to clean ours. I gathered my wand sprayer, flathead screw driver, rags, pip cleaners, etc.   I first pulled the white rubber gasket, then found the cut place of the black track and began to pry it up...lots of cracking and tearing sounds.  I could barely raise it a bit.  I pulled out past the furry inset.  So we stopped and forced it back down.  It seems very brittle and is tearing up rather than pulling out.  This is the second time we've tried this.  Same results.  I'll just keep the dirty window tracks.  :)

[Wayfinder]

That surprises me since my windows are from 2015 or 16 and the rubber is in perfect shape. I wonder if the window manufacturer changed materials. 

[ScottRicki]

I cleaned our window tracks today. Only the back window had a flexible rubber guide like in the video. The side windows were a harder rubber that I chose not to pull up.

[johnwen]

Chris

My trailer is 16 months old and I have never done this....big mistake! My weather stripping (white), on the underside, is mildewed beyond repair. I wouldn't be surprised if the black streaks that appear below the window are from my neglect. I would never have known to go this in-depth had I not watched your video. Thank you, thank you, thank you :)   I thought I was done with the cleaning until I found your video. 

I have noted some owners have replaced the weather strip with a black one.  Can anyone chime in where you can get it?  Hope to se ya'll at the rally :)

John

 

 

[routlaw]

Watching this video reminds me of how much I detest these windows, my biggest Oliver complaint by far.

Just went through this on my own windows yesterday but rain kept me from doing the last one. Maybe later today. I do want to reiterate what Steve stated above, it is very easy to remove those rubble glides from the tracks. What I have always done is to pull the window while pulling the rubber glide simultaneously which only takes a couple of strokes to remover it completely. I also take the top part out in order to thoroughly wash and clean the rubber glide. Normally the sliding window should remove easily after that though it may take a bit of maneuvering up and down to release from the tracks. The screen also needs to come out as well, just push down against the springs (bottom of screen) then the top should release from the upper track. This allows for a much easier and thorough cleaning of all parts, rubber glides, track and windows. Figure about an hour for each window doing it this way.

In conclusion I also spray each of those rubber tracks with silicone lubricant both sides and doing this allows for very easy installation using the same method as removal. Just get the rubber glide started a few inches then push both window and glide together, pull the window back while keeping the glide in place. Repeat as often as needed until the glide clearly is past the window on opposite side from the feed at which point you can grab the rubber glide and pull it to its destination. 

Great idea using the wand for flushing!

[Rivernerd]

2 hours ago, johnwen said:

Can anyone chime in where you can get it? 

https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Window-Seal

Pull your flexible seal, then match the profile with the one on the Pelland Enterprises web page to ensure you get the same one.

[johnwen]

On 5/2/2023 at 9:57 AM, RoadKingsofGA said:

found the cut place of the black track and began to pry it up...lots of cracking and tearing sounds

My rear window is as described by Chris and was pretty straight forward as he shows in the video.  My side windows are not.  The slotted rubber piece on each side have a felt rubbing strip on either side of the channel and prevent the rubber piece from being extracted, unless you use quite a bit of force.  The felt strips are an H shape and fit over the edge of the rubber strip.  I'm not sure if the pictures are of any help.  I quit as RoadKingsofGa did and am unable to fit the H shape of the felt strip back over it edges.  So I quit at that point and finished cleaning as best I could.  I don't think it matters much if I don't get the felt strip back perfectly as the window still slides smoothly and none of the weep holes are blocked.  I'll search out the window experts at the rally.

BTW, there are 2 of those felt strips, 1either side of the rubber strip.  I did not attempt removal of the outboard strip.

John

[Wayfinder]

2 hours ago, routlaw said:

Watching this video reminds me of how much I detest these windows, my biggest Oliver complaint by far.

Just went through this on my own windows yesterday but rain kept me from doing the last one. Maybe later today. I do want to reiterate what Steve stated above, it is very easy to remove those rubble glides from the tracks. What I have always done is to pull the window while pulling the rubber glide simultaneously which only takes a couple of strokes to remover it completely. I also take the top part out in order to thoroughly wash and clean the rubber glide. Normally the sliding window should remove easily after that though it may take a bit of maneuvering up and down to release from the tracks. The screen also needs to come out as well, just push down against the springs (bottom of screen) then the top should release from the upper track. This allows for a much easier and thorough cleaning of all parts, rubber glides, track and windows. Figure about an hour for each window doing it this way.

In conclusion I also spray each of those rubber tracks with silicone lubricant both sides and doing this allows for very easy installation using the same method as removal. Just get the rubber glide started a few inches then push both window and glide together, pull the window back while keeping the glide in place. Repeat as often as needed until the glide clearly is past the window on opposite side from the feed at which point you can grab the rubber glide and pull it to its destination. 

Great idea using the wand for flushing!

Great tips, thanks. I also have used the silicone spray before just to allow windows to slide nicely. 

[Wayfinder]

1 hour ago, johnwen said:

My rear window is as described by Chris and was pretty straight forward as he shows in the video.  My side windows are not.  The slotted rubber piece on each side have a felt rubbing strip on either side of the channel and prevent the rubber piece from being extracted, unless you use quite a bit of force.  The felt strips are an H shape and fit over the edge of the rubber strip.  I'm not sure if the pictures are of any help.  I quit as RoadKingsofGa did and am unable to fit the H shape of the felt strip back over it edges.  So I quit at that point and finished cleaning as best I could.  I don't think it matters much if I don't get the felt strip back perfectly as the window still slides smoothly and none of the weep holes are blocked.  I'll search out the window experts at the rally.

BTW, there are 2 of those felt strips, 1either side of the rubber strip.  I did not attempt removal of the outboard strip.

John

Do you think the newer windows are a better design than the old?  I know you may not have touched the old ones before, as I have not seen the new. But I will need new windows eventually and I'm sure they'll be a different design. 

[wolfdds]

Does anyone know where to buy replacement rubber strips and the felt sides for these windows? It was pouring out and our windows were leaking, in desperation I pulled the gaskets and felt but pretty much ruined it getting it out. The good news is that I was able to stop the leak after pulling out the gasket and cleaning the weep holes.

Any info on buying new parts to replace the ones I ruined would be appreciated.

[Wayfinder]

46 minutes ago, wolfdds said:

Does anyone know where to buy replacement rubber strips and the felt sides for these windows? It was pouring out and our windows were leaking, in desperation I pulled the gaskets and felt but pretty much ruined it getting it out. The good news is that I was able to stop the leak after pulling out the gasket and cleaning the weep holes.

Any info on buying new parts to replace the ones I ruined would be appreciated.

Well, most folks here will suggest call Oliver, not that they will have that part on hand (no way), but they can confirm who your window manufacturer is and "maybe" you can get replacement material from the manufacturer themselves.  Not sure otherwise.  Maybe someone else has a better suggestion. 

Great question though!

[jd1923]

We're in the process of following this procedure to clean our windows (and more including the blinds) inside and out. We have an older OTT, and the outer rubber moldings are in bad shape (see pic). I soaked them in vinegar/water solution for two days and wife Chris has scrubbed one, without much luck, and it's now soaking in bleach-water. There is considerable mold from past neglect and I'm wondering...

Yes, this question was just asked! Can we just replace these? Does anybody know of a supplier and model number for this exterior seal? I would like to buy 20 feet or more of this stock. Hoping it's not $10 a foot! Thank you for your help.

[Mike and Carol]

7 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Yes, this question was just asked! Can we just replace these? Does anybody know of a supplier and model number for this exterior seal? I would like to buy 20 feet or more of this stock. Hoping it's not $10 a foot! Thank you for your help.

There has been discussion about this on the forum and some folks have replaced their white molding with black.  Someone who has done it should have the supplier, or a quick inquiry to Oliver service should also help.  This is part of our periodic maintenance, 3 or 4 times a year they all come out and into a bucket.  Window tracks are cleaned and clean molding put back.  Looks like the previous owner wasn’t much into maintenance or preventive maintenance!

[Rivernerd]

16 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Does anybody know of a supplier and model number for this exterior seal? I

https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Window-Seal

Match the profile of your window seal to a profile on the Pelland Enterprises web page, link above.

[Bob and Elizabeth]

We had ours replaced in march when we had our yearly maintenance done. We had a chose of white or black. Chose the black and we love it. I believe it was cheaper than other places.      Elizabeth

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

Looks like the previous owner wasn’t much into maintenance.

Agreed Mike. I imagine there are many, not active members of this forum, that do not know these should be removed for cleaning, or just afraid to pull them out. In fact, one prior owner sealed the bottom gap (where it had shrunk) with a foam and caulk patch, not understanding the seal could be removed and reinserted to cover the lower gap! Besides the nasty mold, every seal we have has shrunk close to 2", almost a 1" gap on the bottom, and same on top. Another reason to buy new.

2 hours ago, Rivernerd said:

https://www.pellandent.com/RV-Window-Seal Match the profile of your widow seal to a profile on the Pelland Enterprises web page, link above.

Thanks so much Rivernerd! It appears it's the very first seal on this page. Clicking on it gets to this page: 1/2" Glass Vinyl Seal - RV Windows (pellandent.com)

2 hours ago, Bob and Elizabeth said:

We had ours replaced in March when we had our yearly maintenance done. We had a choice of white or black. Chose the black and we love it. I believe it was cheaper than other places. Elizabeth

Thanks for adding your experience, Elizabeth. It appears Pellandent has both choices, white and black, at $5.17 per foot. That's the tough choice! White is the original color, and black would be easier to keep clean. The windows appear black from the outside anyway, so for these reasons, I can see making your choice.

We'll have to make our choice, and order some soon! Thanks again to all. 🙂

[Mike and Carol]

2 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Agreed Mike. I imagine there are many, not active members of this forum, that do not know these should be removed for cleaning, or just afraid to pull them out. In fact, one prior owner sealed the bottom gap (where it had shrunk) with a foam and caulk patch, not understanding the seal could be removed and reinserted to cover the lower gap! Besides the nasty mold, every seal we have has shrunk close to 2", almost a 1" gap on the bottom, and same on top. Another reason to buy new.

Mine shrunk too.  I keep the gap on the top of the window so there’s coverage at the bottom.  Other than that, the rubber is in good shape.  Once it starts to deteriorate I’ll also replace (with the original black).  Mike

[jd1923]

My wife Chris agreed with Elizabeth, and I just ordered black. Reads like Mike and Carols came originally with black, hull 135 and ours #113 came with white.

Measured 3 windows at 58" and the bathroom at 25." I ordered 17 feet, allowing me +5" for the gaps. $99 total with $11 shipping, no sales tax applied. 

The rear EXIT window has a thinner seal, which I cannot find on the Pelland site. Funny thing is our rear black seal does not have the same mold or mildew, as do the white vinyl seals. I will just reuse the rear seal which in decent shape. Thanks again!

[Going Coastal]

After a leak in one of our rear windows, I found wayfinder's weephole video and that solved the problem.   I also tried to clean our white ones, and ended up ordering the new black seal from pelland and replaced all of ours.   I definitely like the black better than the white after the switch!

I can remember where I saw it, but someone mentioned using a PVC pipe cutter to cut the seals - that worked great and gave a straight edge.    FWIW, when I reinstalled, I started at the bottom of the window, pushed it as flush as I could, then worked my way up to the top of the window, then cut.