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So I had 52" left-over of drip rail stock, so what's a guy to do? Thinking some of you will hate this, but who knows! 🤣 I didn't want "Window Gutters" like in the several posts of old. Our windows have not leaked (knocking on hardwood, dead-center of forehead) and we live in a dry area. It is a shame though that while it's raining we can't even crack the Oliver windows open 2" without getting the bedding or dinette seat wet. I'm thinking this might be the answer to the need, Oliver "window drip-rail eyebrows!" 😎 So I cut the 52" of stock in 3 equal pieces. I decided to mount on the window frames, not on the fiberglass, out of the way of caulking and ceramic polishing. I prepped the same way; very lightly sanded, acetone rub, alcohol clean. This time with the tight radius 90-degree turn, it was a day in the mid 70s but leaving the pieces laying in the strong sun for an hour made them fully pliable. I started at the bottom, measured 5" from the top edge of the window, then worked them up and over, to make all 3 identical. Hardly noticeable from a distance. I believe this will keep a light rain from coming inside. I'll let you know next time it rains!

These Vatrer batteries should be a good choice, great $/Ah cost! I was hoping to see somebody go this direction. You should know only one (1) of these will fit in the battery bay, so no room for future expansion with one 460. You could install 2-3 of their 300 Ah batteries instead, for more money of course. Either way, none of the Vatrer choices fit in the MORryde battery tray except for one 300. Running A/C? Ron is correct in that adding the 20A ATS, RV A/C can be run on a 2KW inverter. He has his working well, I tried it and then upgraded to the Victron 3K inverter. There are other considerations. I'm thinking since you currently have AGM batteries, maybe you have the Dometic Penguin II A/C?! If so, this beast of old pulls 150A when running, which means that for every hour you run it you're using 150 Ah of your LiFePO4 batteries. On a 460 AH battery running the old P2 will reduce SOC by 30% every hour, just 3 hours to a dead battery. First you want more Ahs if you truly want to run A/C via the inverter! Many Oliver owners have installed better A/C units; the Truma, Dometic Freshjet, Houghton and Tosot. They are about 40% more efficient, so instead of 3 hours, 460 Ah should last 5 hours. These A/C models all have single-speed ON-OFF compressors, that run ON most of the day when hot out. If you install an inverter-compressor A/C like Turbro, Pioneer, etc. or the variable-speed Chill Cube these numbers improve greatly. We have 900 Ah and the Furrion Chill Cube A/C. I had no idea the numbers would be so good. I ran several tests and on average we used 200 Ah to run this A/C for 24 hours, on a sunny day in AZ with a high of 93F. The 320W rooftop solar was also adding power which likely added another 120 Ah/day +/-. But I ran our Chill Cube A/C all day on battery for what the Dometic P2 would have consumed in 90 minutes! I ran tests for two weeks at home and since have used the new A/C about 8 days on 2 camping trips. To run A/C regularly on inverted power you need enough Ahs, say 600 min, 900 Ah better! You need an efficient A/C unit, otherwise the idea is not viable. For occasional use, upgrade per Ron's suggestion. Want to do this regularly, upgrade your inverter to a 3KW model. I had no idea it could work this way. It took 3 years of upgrades with some trial and error! With the DC-DC charger going, we can leave home with a full charge, run the A/C while we're towing. Have a cool cabin for bathroom and lunch breaks on the road, and arrive at the campsite cool with near 100% SOC. The DC-DC charge of +40A is about what the A/C uses during the day. The rooftop solar adds enough the run the fridge, etc. If it's cold out and no need for A/C, we sometimes heat the hot water tank on electric! Or if we've been boondocking for a few days the DC-DC charger brings our SOC% up considerably for the next stay. 😎 Yeah, it's a can of worms where one upgrade may lead to the next, to the next, to the...

We purchased our Ollie from the original owners in Missouri during 2016 when posted in this forum's classified section. I'm sure many Ollie's have been sold on Facebook, too. Also like the idea for a owner's classified section for Ollie parts and associated gear, too.

My camping season is one fat summer -- from Spring all the way through Fall -- with the high traffic Summer season focused on boondocking out West. I only feel crowds when I return to the eastern half of the country.

She tows great in good weather https://youtube.com/shorts/gxLY7IRslJo?si=xqe2Y6Aj3dercgA0 and is trailing smoothly in the rain, oh how sweet!!! https://youtube.com/shorts/FbAvBiVSXNo?is=7SazzRBNPKDlRBZN

I can see OTT not wanting to facilitate private sales of used Olivers. It's not a good business model. On a personal basis, we're never buying or selling another Oliver, so who cares? I would think this is true for most of us. The Oliver is a life trailer that most of us buy once and keep in the family. What would be helpful is a classified section for unused Oliver parts. I've sold my Calmark cover, sold my bike rack, sold my original 2KW Xantrex, all just from slight mentions in my mod posts. But it took 2 years to do so and an Oliver Parts sales section would be great (not a vendor space, just for owners). I'm not using our Andersen 2 5/16" WDH or brand new Nev-R Lube hubs. See, I did it again. I want a solid aluminum front basket that somebody here took off to add a locked/covered case. If you've owned an Oliver for more than a couple of years, we all have stuff sitting on the shelf.

I can tell you that this subject has already been discussed with some of the senior folks at Oliver. The reaction by Oliver has been "mixed" - but - in the final analysis there really is only one person who can make the Classified Section reappear. I'm sure that if a fairly good number of current owners would make it known to the powers that be (email, snail mail and/or personal requests at the Rally) the odds of getting it back would be greatly improved. Bill

I hope that’s not just a threat! It would be great to see a ghost from the past during the Halloween season! Mossey

Question two: now that you know that you can overflow the freshwater tank, I also use that bonus feature to refill the freshwater tank if needed. Mossey

Could someone attending the upcoming 2026 Oliver Rally ask the Oliver folks: Now that Oliver is back to only selling from their facilities in TN (no retail RV companies), can the Classified section be reopened on the forum to allow used Oliver's to be advertised there,

Let's chat at the rally. We travel a lot in the Ollie but we also travel a lot without it. Just returned from 2 weeks in Scotland, and getting ready to head to Yellowstone. Tim's Ford Lake is a beautiful area. There is at least one other couple we met down there (War Trace) with an Ollie. We'll look forward to meeting at Lake Guntersville. Bob

You might want to call OTT and ask them how they would recommend to repair it. Jason Essary might be the best person to ask as he has been involved in production. (They may be hard to reach right now as they are getting ready for the Oliver Rally. @gorby:L It would be helpful for us to give you better answers, if you added to your signature line the year, hull number and model of your Oliver.

@Townesw I can’t specifically remember at what point that photo was taken, but I *think* it was when the hoses were backwards. Question two: you are correct, and I was surprised the first time I used city water with a full fresh tank and heard water coming from the overflow. Question three: Correct. For us, the whole purpose of the diverter was to save tank capacity in either scenario. The whole bathroom re-plumbing was by far the best project I’ve done on Curiosity.

It’s not a statement my p trap under the shower drain is disconnected I discovered that the connecting collar is broken very hard to get any ideas how to replace it

question for the owners of the newer units with the updated AC's. Our 2018 LEII came with the std Dometic - loud as heck - really obnoxious when trying to sleep. Does anyone have any experience with the newer versions like the 48 v Houghton on the Apex, or the ones on the LEII. I must admit that Apex looks interesting. RB

Thanks for the post! I just noticed you're a Nashville area couple. We are south of you, a bit, Tims Ford Lake area. I am going to visit the Oct rally to view the unannounced viewing of perhaps a redesign of the LE1. Having traveled about a lot with a LE II, we are considering the smaller unit - not sure on either. Just don't know which direction we will head - RV again or not, choice is such a pain.... ha. Honestly, as we enter the next decade or two, how we want to spend it is harder choice than one would think. But that's a subject for a much longer discussion!

There was a prototype of the LE I with apex trim on the showroom floor this summer. They said there was no plan to take that to market though.

@Steve Morris First question: If I correctly understand you in your posts following the post that included this picture, you say that your hot and cold lines are reversed in this picture. Is this correct? The plumbing would make better sense if your lines were reversed in that picture. @Steve Morris or @mossemi Second question: When running off the pump you are pulling water from the fresh tank and sending that water through the water heater to a diverter and back to the fresh tank until it is hot. In this (running off pump) scenario you are conserving fresh water and grey tank capacity. When running off city water you are still sending that water through the water heater to a diverter and back to the fresh tank until it is hot. If your fresh tank is already full the excess returned water will just go out the overflow? Third question: In the city water scenario you are only conserving grey tank capacity. Is this correct? Bill - 2018 Hull 313

Harvest Hosts has been added to the Choice Hotels portfolio https://share.gemini.google/nuoBbPEPcPIw

You will need to install a dedicated automatic transfer switch to be able to run the a/c off the batteries via the inverter and still be able to operate it when on shore power. No need to upgrade the inverter just to be able to run the unit in this manner. You will also need to install a shunt and fuse with the battery upgrade. Search ‘Ollie Modifications’ for owner write ups to glean information and install details. Here are a few pics on the required ATS to get you started: My install. Pic provided by another illustrating the wiring. ATS wiring diagram.

My guess too>

Could be a coincidence. But there was once an old hull with an Air Fryer upgrade. 🤣

Yeah after I wrote that I thought “nah, it’ll be an upgraded I”. But $2M?? I knew those molds are expensive but that is nuts. Well $500k per mold I guess makes more sense. You make a fiberglass one-off model (the ‘plug’ I think?), then build the fiberglass mold off that. Still seems high but what do I know … Edit: easier bet; first reveal will be at the Rally

Hi. Read through this forum. Use Google search: "Oliver trailers forum <insert your question here>." Tons of good information available.

As @topgun2 suggests, I hope you come to the rally -- you will meet many happy Oliver owners, see personalized trailers, and OTT usually includes informational seminars by the Oliver team as well as some of the component manufacturers.