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During our 2026 CONUS tour our hot water heater inside switch would not fire off the hot water heater. 120V worked fire via the outside switch. Checked for power at the water heater and there was none. Pulled the switch inside aft of the stovetop and found power on one side of it (Had to run a temp ground to do so). Jumped the wires as JD suggested and yep it made hot water. IE Bad switch. To my amazement the switch was not just a single throw/single throw, but a double pole single throw. IE there are two seperate sets of switching terminals and OTT was only using one. Moved the two wires to the other side of the switch and problem solved. Good thing to know when poking around our 2018 switches. All that said, I am wanting to get a replacement switch for my spare parts box. Any sourcing info would be appreciated. GJ

I have been looking in Wisconsin. I ceramic coated my TV as a trial - its worth it in that case. On the Oliver it would make cleanup and annual maintenance so, so much easier. I have made a couple of local inquiries, sent pictures, the whole 9 yards. So far, they never call me back. I don't know but in retirement I tend not to chase after people. If they dont want the business or have the courtesy to reply then guess I am better off.

Bosker and I really enjoyed this year's Guntersville Oliver Rally. Well done Ollie team! Bosker especially enjoyed his cameo on the Morning Coffee at Oliver, with Aaron and Jason.

Dean, they were also too far away for me, almost as far as the OTT Rally and both are beyond our means. I spent time looking around online, thinking there should be somebody in the Phoenix Valley that would do this work closer to home. One company wouldn't even look at our hull due to its age. They only coat brand new vehicles, so no extra prep/paint correction (or gel coat) work included. Then talking to my autobody painter, he referred me to a local auto specialist who works paintless dent repairs, other detailing and custom ceramic coating, but he won't work with wax! I observed a few examples of CGI work at the 1st Texas Rally. Beautiful work, but sticker-shock was more my gut feeling. Their Oliver website page states "starting at $3K" and one advertisement stated another $400, shared travel cost per trailer, when they travel to do their work at a rally. My guy quoted $85/ft for the full length of the trailer, 23 1/2 ft hitch to bumper. He said, "That's what it's worth and more would be over-charging." His industrial shop (he works on semi-trucks too) is just 20 miles from our home. Cameron worked on our trailer himself over a 2-week period and into Thanksgiving holiday, because he wanted "another couple of days to get it right." It sure came out GREAT! Our Oliver sits in the Arizona sun 24x7x365. Ceramic coating it designed to repel UV rays and after 11 months she's still shiny. I'll go back for the annual service regularly. I only suds spray and pressure wash after trips when it really needs it. My arms, shoulders and body will not be used to wash or wax our hull, never have, never will. I'd rather replace trailer axles (done that) than spend a couple of hours with a buffing machine. And no wax required on ceramic. The restorer in me wanted to get everything else exterior done before, during and after! I waited over 2 years to work the exterior, letting it get pasty while doing all the interior mods (exterior restoration post linked below). We're going back soon for the annual "decontamination rinse and polishing." I expected it to be in the hundreds but he just quoted me $185 for the annual. Wow, something costing less than what you would expect is a rare case today. 😎 Maybe there's the right guy in your part of Colorado! Best wishes, JD

Hi Patriot, Your trailer looks great, and I wish I lived close enough to have CGI do some work on mine. I really like your hangar, and I have enough space on our mountain property to potentially build something similar. Would you mind sharing the make, model, and dimensions of your hangar? Thanks, Dean

They do good work.

On final night of rally the great blue heron and goose say…. Have you ever seen such large eggs? Sun sets on this years Oliver rally!

After having the guys at CGI buff, polish and ceramic coat XPLOR I will never buff or wax the exterior again. It also helps storing it in our Ollie Hangar. It truly looks better than the day we took delivery.

Well stated. I believe that OTT tries at all times to "Do What's Right". I wish many other firms would have their amazing integrity. GJ

Same here! We miss seeing all of our Oliver friends. Actually, we haven’t been able to travel in over a year…🙁

It sure is! 🤣 And yes, it doesn't get any easier as we get older. For months, I got used to kneeling on a dinette back cushion (have new cushions now) to get my upper body into the basement openings. I was 69 then, and now at 71 if I had to do it again, it would be harder! Looking back at the summer of 2024, I spent the whole time working Oliver upgrades. We don't travel much in the summer. I worked my main electrical upgrade Jul-Aug, just after (almost) finishing my duct work mod. I say 'almost' because I was still waiting on delivery of the return duct and filters. I've gotten used to patiently waiting on parts for one project while working another. There's always something to do! At least that was the case for quite awhile! My first Oliver project was a new A/V system in July 2023. My last major project was our Chill Cube A/C upgrade Dec 2025. I worked 35 documented upgrades in these 2 1/2 years! First step was replacing LA batteries with lithium (lucky you starting with 640 Ah Lithionics)! Then removing a Xantrex 2K inverter with external ATS, and some crazy junction box containing a dozen residential wire nuts, OMG! Then rewiring everything to the under dinette seat area (no switches/fuses under the bed) and this ended with the Victron Multiplus II installed on a custom platform, all in working order. Then I added the SC and wiring for a 400W Renogy suitcase (Aug-Sept). I added the Orion DC-DC charger the next spring as I collected all the necessary parts in the time between. We had 100 things to do and if one effort was on hold waiting parts, I started on the next task on the list! 😎

Wish we could have attended. We'll do our best to tune in for the morning coffee livestream.

I enjoy projects like this, but like any major undertaking, they come with their share of frustrations. One of the biggest challenges is having to be a contortionist to route wires in such a confined space. Being in my 70s certainly doesn't make that task any easier. Another familiar frustration is getting to a point where I realize I need one more trip to the hardware store for that specific screw, bolt, or bracket needed to finish a portion of the job. Most of my electrical components are ordered online because the big-box stores carry very little that is suitable for RV electrical systems. That often means putting the project on hold while I wait for the correct parts to arrive before I can continue. Despite those challenges, seeing the system come together and knowing it was done correctly makes the effort worthwhile.

John, Thanks for sharing that your electrical upgrade took nearly 200 hours. When my project is complete, I suspect I'll be much closer to that number than to 100 hours, especially when I factor in the time spent researching products, sourcing all the required components, and figuring out the best installation methods within the limited space available in our camper. This type of upgrade is a significant undertaking, particularly when you're first removing and correcting a poorly executed installation left behind by a previous owner who hired out a smaller upgrade. I'll save those details for another post. You're also absolutely right about how much prices have increased over the past several years. My roughly $5,000 upgrade does not include batteries, as my trailer already came from the factory with 640Ah of Lithionics lithium batteries. It's hard to believe, but I've spent nearly $1,000 on cables, fuse holders, fuses, mounting boards, and other miscellaneous hardware alone. For example, a quality Class T fuse from a reputable manufacturer costs around $65, and of course I needed a spare, for a total of two. That brings me back to the original topic of allowing members to list used or surplus parts for sale on the forum. During this project, I've removed a number of fully functional components that could be valuable to other owners looking to replace failed equipment or complete their own upgrades. Providing a marketplace for these parts could help fellow owners save money while keeping quality equipment in service.

Having a wonderful time at the Oliver Rally in Lake Guntersville! Looking forward to the livestream Morning Coffee With Oliver tomorrow! @Jason Essary @Aaron Wolters

Thank you! I had already heard that topgun2 had received it and handed it off to Boudicca908. She and I will meet near Tampa as she heads south. Mossey

Dean, many of us are looking forward to seeing your work and new Victron system! 😂 I think I have +/- 1000 hours in +/- 40 upgrades over 3 years, likely 200 hours in electrical upgrades alone. Yeah, I'm in Excel for everything from paying bills to keeping to-do lists. I have an Auto Maintenance worksheet with a tab for every vehicle we have or have owned. One for the Oliver of course, another for the TV and everything else. It denotes the dates of expenditures and maintenance completed so to keep a full history and what's needed next. My $5K included 900 Ah Epoch Essentials mostly at 2024 prices ($2,819 total). Today, I would go with a cheap model since the batteries I have cost $3,750 list price today. We spent $2K in Victron devices; a SmartShunt, the MP2 and two interfaces (Bluetooth and MK3-USB-C configuration interfaces), a 30A MPPT SC, the 50A Orion DC-DC charger, 15A SC for TV solar and 12|24 DC-DC for Starlink power. Then a 400A ANL fuse and housing, two 400A buses, 35A breaker, 4 and 10 AWG wire, etc. The first reason costs are higher now is two years of inflation (cost of copper!) but in comparing systems it's mainly the cost of dual 50A SCs (vs. my single 30A) and the "Victron Lynx Distributor, Cerbo GX MK2 with GX Touch 70 Display." Instead of a cabin display (I read my app more often when outdoors or from the driver's seat), I went with a simple VE interface for $83 which reads temp and is a Bluetooth interface for the Multiplus II. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCV43LQ/ The two GX devices are likely $500+ depending on where you buy them (do not suggest Amazon), more when buying from a "professional installation company." I went without Cerbo accessories for not wanting additional device integration, nor a cabin display. I used basic 400A 8mm pure copper buses, a pair for $40, where Lynx Distributors can be $200-400 each. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D59Z9S7W/ We all have different needs and I can tell you, when you do all the work yourself, have ready all the parts you need to minimize time (drawings, good planning), and buy all the hardware you want that makes you happy! 😎 As it costs 2-3 times as much to get this work done for you, labor included!

Sorry to hear that. Stopped by and dropped off the heater this morning. Bob

I am still in the process of completing my full Victron upgrade, which has taken more time than expected. Most of the delays have been due to limited installation space and having to wait for additional, unforeseen materials such as wire, wire mesh, lugs, connectors, bolts, screws ... John made several excellent points about the simplicity of having a single display in a Victron-based system. While a Victron upgrade is a very robust and capable solution, it does require configuration and programming of the various components. If the installation is performed by a professional, the programming is typically included as part of the process. Once everything is set up correctly, the system is actually quite straightforward to operate, especially considering the level of capability and functionality provided by such a comprehensive upgrade. At least that is what I hope to find once this project is complete. One display instead of multiple apps is one of my goals in this upgrade. I've been keeping track of nearly all of the project expenses in a spreadsheet, and I'm now over $5,000 invested and more than 100 hours into the installation. Once everything is finished, I'll start a new thread with a complete write-up and details of the upgrade.

How much does OTT charge for their Platinum package? The 2027 Oliver EII Platinum is $101,000. The EII Standard is $85,000. OTT's "most popular" package adds $16K for an array of electrical options. Now that's truly "money growing on trees!" 🤣 You get a 3K Xantrex inverter, 400W solar with SC from Zamp or Victron if you're lucky. Of do you? Would OTT instead install a "Rich Solar" system like we've seen recently? Add 640 Ah in Lithionics. What make shunt is used? It could be a Victron. And then some off-brand DC-DC charger that should NOT be wired to the 12 AWG AUX wire in the trailer harness in the first place! With 3-4 brand names OTT must drill many large holes into the pretty interior hull of your Oliver for multiple screens! If you prefer apps, you would need to learn how to use ALL of them. "Keeping life simple" is not happening here, not at all! Simplicity no, complexity is the word and there's only a few of us Oliver Owners on this Forum that understand most of it. In a fully integrated Victron system, add a screen if you like or not, and one user-friendly app is all you need to see status of all devices. Our hull has 6 Victron devices and 2 more in the TV. Include 900 Ah in heated LiFePO4 batteries and we have spent a total of $5,000 in Victron components, buses and all wiring, everything (labor not included). The DIY-capable owner should buy the new 2027 EII Standard and add their own solar-inverter/charger/lithium upgrade. For those incapable or not wanting to do the work, they'd have 10K for labor in buying the Standard over the Platinum model. Yes, 10+ have upgraded to Victron, discarding what was installed OEM. How many would make the choice if a Victron installation was offered? This is the real question. Want true simplicity? Skip all these upgrades, buy the Standard package and plug into 30A shore power! Or OTT could offer a fully integrated Victron system, first for superior overall performance and for the simplicity of the integrated system! 😎

We went through the same process. It saves water not having to make adjustments once you're in the shower. I like 105, and Deb likes 108. To further save water, we added a diverter valve to return water to the fresh tank until it gets hot. This saves anywhere from a quart to more than half gallon.

I never thought about this - great idea. I will try out - soon.

I will add my own ORF musings! I think we all embrace any technology that is capable of making our lives easier, as long as we can figure it out. My first bite of the Victron apple was adding a BMV 712 battery monitor and I continue to add Victron equipment as I find it beneficial to maximize my battery usage. And Victron’s technical support is truly world class. And if you have any doubts about smartphones making you stupid, just leave it at home when you head out camping! After all, the only phone number I remember off the top of my head is 911! Mossey

Put me in that camp.

Likely: 10+ / (the current number of OTT Owners) = a stastically insufficiant number of reasons However, if money grew on trees, many of our owners would like to have the "Gismology" of an all Victron Package. But likely more would not want the complexity of them. Keeping life simple is also a virture for many of us. Just the musing of an Ole Retired Fart! 🙂 GJ