Leaderboard

We drove maybe 5 miles from our last store and when we came inside, we walked into this - [attachment file=48331] What happened is that the drawers were not screwed down to the roll outs and only these 4 screws , maybe 4 threads were holding the cabinets in. [attachment file=48334] So over the last 7 weeks of driving home the little #8 x 1/2" screws vibrated their way out, cracking the wood and those 4 screws in the face were ALL that was holding the drawers in place. The actual slide outs were still in, and never slid out with the drawers as you can see in the first pic. There should also be screws into the wood from the holes in the pics below [attachment file=48337] [attachment file=48340] And this way, the drawers would be screwed in properly and would have never pulled out the screws in the face. This is something that everyone should check. To do so, simply open the drawer and look for the holes above. If there are screws in them then all is good. If not, then they will need to be screwed down. This is a pic of one of the drawers still in place and you can see that it hasn't been screwed down either... So, now, it's off to a cabinet shop to get them fixed. We left a message with Jason, but it was after 6pm in Tennessee, so we will hear from him tomorrow. So take the time to check all of your kitchen drawers and make sure that they have all of the screws needed to keep them held together. Had this been installed like this in a house, there would have probably never been a problem, but in an RV with all of the vibrations from the road, it's just a matter of time and bumps in the road before you will be crossing this hurdle. [attachment file=48343]

Thank you Bob and Bill for the warm welcome. It sounds like you all have some great trips planned. I have never heard of the Banana Pudding Festival. BP is my favorite. I spoke to Anita at the Oliver plant today. She hooked us up with new Oliver owners that picked up their trailer today. The funny part is we know them. We will get a chance to see their new Legacy Elite II this weekend. All the best, Oscar

Knowledge Base Article for Zamp Solar ZS-30A Charge Controller The Zamp Solar 30 Amp 5 Stage Digital Deluxe Solar Charge Controller # ZS-30A has PWM or Pulse Width Modulation, which is a digital signal that is used to control power applications and has 5 stages of charging for best battery health and longevity. This controller can support and is programmable for the 4 typical types of deep cycle batteries – WET, GEL, AGM and Calcium. We pre-set the controller at the factory according to what batteries are installed. 12 volt solar charging power. LCD screen displays battery voltage, charging current, charging capacity, battery types and faulty codes. LED light indicators show charging status and battery condition. 5 stages of charging: Level 1 – Soft Charge – When batteries suffer an over-discharge, the controller will softly ramp the battery voltage up to 10V. Level 2 – Bulk Charge – Maximum current until batteries rise to Absorption Level. Level 3 – Absorption Charge – Constant voltage charging (battery is over 85%). This stage takes longer than any other stage to complete. You will typically see your battery status remain in this stage unless you are not using the camper. The full battery indicator is about the last 2% and while running lights and other components it will remain in the absorption stage. *Battery volts displayed during this stage are charging volts not actual battery volts. Level 4 – Equalization Charge – Only for WET battery or Calcium battery type. When the battery is deeply drained below 10V, it will automatically run this stage to bring the internal cells to equal states and fully complement the loss of capacity. (Gel and AGM batteries do not run Equalization Charge). Level 5 – Float Charge – Battery is fully charged and maintained at a safe level. Fully charge is more than 13.6V. Includes a port for an optional external battery temperature sensor. Zamp Charge Controller & Digital Monitoring System (Battery Volts) Both systems will display charging volts rather than actual battery volts when power is being supplied to the batteries. Customer interaction The charge controller has 2 buttons. One button labeled Amp/Volts can be used to scroll through relevant information Amp/Volt Button Current battery volts or charging volts Current Amps being supplied to the battery (Initial startup will be lower amps and slowly increase to maximum output depending on sunlight available. Current total of Amp Hours supplied within the 24 hour timeframe. This setting will reset with every 24 hour period. Current Battery Temperature. (Displayed in Celsius). This is used by the charge controller to monitor the battery. Battery Type Button This is pre-set at the factory based on the type of batteries installed and should only be changed if you replace your batteries with a different battery type. Zamp Error Codes: P01 - Solar Panel Reverse Connection P02 - Solar Panel Over Voltage 601 - Battery Disconnected or less than 3.0 Volts 602 - Battery Reverse Connection 603 - Battery Over Voltage (> 17.5 Volts) 604 - Battery Temperature over 65C

Here in Florida, it's prime camping season. However, most of the best campsites have been reserved a year ago by Canadians and other tourists. We usually just stay home. Weather is good. Check. Wildlife in the bay, check. Sailing is good, so why worry? We'll leave here for NC in a month or so. We will chase the cooler weather. Sherry

Thought I'd update this since I haven't been around much. Our trailer still isn't in production, and in fact we still don't have a price back from Oliver. I got tired of pushing it some time ago so the ball's in their court. They know that since they missed our spring deadline that our next trip wouldn't be until October or so, but it seems like they took that as license to stop working on our project entirely. I'm just curious if Oliver has forgotten that we're customers. The tow vehicle story isn't much better. I found out the end of February that the truck I ordered was finally in production, but that the dealership had screwed up their orders and mine got built the wrong color. I told them I'd take a look and see when it came in, which was today, but the truck really isn't my style. And since the trailer is so delayed, it made no sense to take it. In fact, in 6 weeks, I can order a 2018 model, so we'll wait for that. All in all, probably a four to five month delay. Still hoping to have both before the fall, but if Oliver doesn't get serious shortly, I suspect we'll cut our loses and move on. We're patient, though, so we'll see.

Reed & Karen, The screen door bar has also been on the Forum before. Be careful with this bar - certainly the bar is fairly strong, but, the relatively light aluminum screen door that it is attached to is really not built for putting too much weight on it. I always remind people using mine to use the grab bars (inside and outside) that are more firmly attached to the sides of the Oliver. Bill

I got mine from Charlie (RV Widget Works). He makes them and sells them to Little House Customs. He's easy to work with. We got ours after someone leaned against the fridge and turned it off. Fortunately, it wasn't off long. It's a good, cheap investment! Mike

After braking hard one day we found the nightstand drawer out and off the tracks when we stopped. I had 3 books in the drawer that must've been enough weight to cause the drawer to open when I braked. I got it all put back together, but we always found the drawer open after driving, finally resorting to duct tape. I removed the mechanism and found that an internal plastic piece was broken. I called Tommy and explained the situation and he sent me a new set. Haven't had any issues since - I also don't have anything heavy in that nightstand drawer. I haven't checked our kitchen drawers but will. We've had no problems with them. Thanks for the heads up on this. Mike

Monlezum: The fridge button guard has been discussed on the Forum before. One of our members - tractors 1 (Charlie Y) makes these and will sell direct (don't know if it is any cheaper but at least our member would keep all the money) and he is very easy to deal with. I'd recommend sending him a PM. Bill

Hi Karen Thanks for posting the pictures. I immediately got out my inspection light and made sure that ours are securely fastened. I agree that everyone should do an inspection on their unit to prevent this from happening. I intend to put this on my to-do list for inspection every few months. The good news is that after many miles of travel ours are still holding up well. Hap Sometimes at home in Florida but currently in Yuma, Az and meandering towards Lost Dutchman State Park for a 5-day reservation this weekend.

Our fifth wheel and motorhome both were in complete compartments, but with mesh (open) floors. Never had a problem. Alcohol stoves were always the norm for offshore, as they were water extinguished. We have used propane BBQ but they were gimbeled to the rail and oveboard.

Having been in the business, presentation wise the under mounts are the way to go,so I would guess that when they switched to dovetail drawers they also switched the slides. And as most airstream owners are aware, too much weight in them will override the ability for the drawer to keep itself closed and once it's open and banging against its full extension it's real weakness shows and that is that it's only those little screws that hold it in. I've plugged the holes and reinstalled them many times and that was for non-moving, non-vibrating house kitchens. While not as visually pleasing, aka not as "high end" the side mount soft close are much stronger and can hold themselves closed better. They are slightly more time intensive to install with having to line up both components and screw both sides of the slide to its respective structure, but obviously worth it where situations demand. You should be able to replace the current hardware with the side mounts if desired the tolerances were fairly close, if I remember correctly, you need to pad the side a little. Otherwise search the airstream forum and review the straps, braces, velcro, rubber bands and everything else they've tried to keep theirs closed.

A mess. Glad you found the source. Sorry it happened to you. Sherry

Malcolm and Ursula go to www.littlehousecustoms.com and go to their store tab you will find all of these products and more that Larry mostly sells for Casita's but most will also work for the Oliver. You can order from them on line and receive it fairly quickly most of which you can do your self if not he is located in Texas he does not travel to work anymore, he used to go to rally's and work from sun up to sun down working and fixing Casitas. Hope that helps. Thanks Gary

Hi Karen and Reed, We pick up our "Olivia" Hull #104 2 weeks from tomorrow. Yeh! I am very interested in getting the plastic cover for the Frig control buttons shown in your photo. When its convenient, could I trouble you for the info to get one i.e. phone number, part number or anything to get this ordered. Your Oliver looks great and its obvious from all your postings you two are making great use of it. Really living the dream! Thank you in advance for your help and hope to meet up with you both some day. Malcolm and Ursula M.

Well, honestly neither of your responses helps, but I do appreciate that you replied. I plan to occasionally take my Ollie on surfaces that most owners would avoid. I need to be mentally prepared for damaging it myself, or for getting nailed by another vehicle, and I would like to know my repair options if that did happen. I don't think that is paranoid - anal certainly - but then again, everybody here in this thread is against me! LOL! If I started a thread about attaching forged steel tow hooks to the frame, and techniques for getting the trailer unstuck without a tow truck, would you think that paranoid? Hooks are on my To Do list, at the very bottom. John Davies Spokane WA

Hi, Welcome to the forum. A wealth of information is available here. If you don't see your question being answered, just ask. Found out today that our unit will be done (maybe) at the end of this week. We are going to go down the Trace, then to Georgia for a weekend near the end of April then to the Rally May 5. Tenn. gives 30 day temp. plates, so we have to figure out how to travel, where to go, and still get the unit registered in Maine within 30 days. Hate to delay pick up, but that may be an option. Guess I could pay for it sight unseen and have them send the paperwork? Somehow not too sure about that. So, if you see us driving around your neighborhood sometime, just honk and we can show you ours. We will either lost, or headed home... Bob

Canoe12, Steve and Tali of ScubaRX are the ones that did the propane tank forward and hatch doors thing. I'm sure that Steve would be more than happy to give you all the details. Bill

I've found that no matter how easy the new propane cover latches might be, the porthole is super easy and doesn't require lifting off that big cover to get to the valves. I mounted a quick disconnect propane fitting inside where I can reach it through that porthole too. Then I can run our outside stove without the moving the big cover as the hose comes out of the port. For me, that was the best place for the quick disconnect and did not require running any pipe to another location.