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We are very happy campers.

These are some pictures of the Steel subframe as of July 2017

We will be back home in a few days. Hope to meet you guys and show off our baby.

It’s been a couple of years, but when we got our pick up orientation from Tommy (now retired) he told me to use the jacks if I needed to change a tire. Since then, I have used the jacks to raise the trailer a couple of times. Once in our local tire shop parking lot to get metal stems and a rebalance with TPMS sensors and once in the brake shop lot for a brake service. Both times the trailer was connected to the truck. I ran the front jack down for stability, then raised one side at a time. I also have 8” blocks that I always use so the jacks are never extended very far. If I was on the side of the road I would use the jacks to change a tire for speed if nothing else. When camping I always build a lego platform for each tire to level the trailer then use the jacks to stabilize. I don’t know why the guidance from Oliver has changed, could be liability. Mike

The question about the jacks has evolved over the past year or so. Originally, Oliver's message about the jacks, though unwritten, was that they could be used to lift the trailer off the ground - and the jacks are certainly strong enough to do so. That's what we were told on our factory visit, and it was touted as one of the advantages of the trailer. And so many owners have for years done just that and continue to do so. But then there were some discussions here about the frame flexing on some trailers when jacked up, and some new and prospective owners asked whether they should really be lifting the tires off the ground when camped, and at that point Oliver responded by changing/clarifying their recommendation to using them only for stabilization. Some took that change as gospel, and some took it as Oliver saying, "Well, since you're forcing us to give you a legally binding recommendation, we're going to have to give you one you don't want to hear." But until Jason's comment above, the recommendation to use them for maintenance has remained in the manual. So they've either just realized that discrepancy in their message, or have decided to get more strict with their recommendation for whatever reason. I suspect the owner's manual will be rewritten to reflect Jason's comments, and what you do with your own trailer will, as always, be up to you.

WINTER STORAGE OF CAMPER When storing the camper for the winter you will want to ensure that it is done properly so you don't run into any issues when you get ready to get it out of storage. Winterize: Make sure you properly winterize the camper with an RV Antifreeze. Using air to blow out the lines will NOT remove all of the water in the system. There are valves throughout the camper that can hold the smallest amount of water, freeze and crack causing an unwanted repair. Make sure the filter or anode is removed from the water heater and it is empty. Batteries: The on-board batteries are susceptible to cold weather and can drain even when disconnected from the camper. It is best to leave the camper on a charge keeping the batteries topped off. This will prolong the battery life as well as ensure that the camper has 12v power when it comes out of storage. Tires: The tires on your camper may develop flat spots if left sitting on concrete/asphalt while being stored. This is okay as the flat spots should straighten out as you drive the camper down the road about 10 miles and the tires heat up. Even if the camper is being stored inside a building, if the building temperature is not regulated to stay above freezing and/or the building heat source fails, then you may have something freeze inside the camper causing damage. Winter Usage The camper is designed to be used during the winter months just as you use your stationary house. However, the biggest difference is that with your camper you may turn off the heat source and travel to your next destination. This trip might just be enough for the water left behind in your water lines, water filter, toilet, and or water heater to freeze and cause damage. Recommendations: While traveling in freezing temperature (32 degrees) it is recommended that you drain your water heater, cut off the water to the toilet and flush to remove as much as the water from the toilet as possible. Depending on the outside temperature and how long your drive will be, this may not fully protect against freezing. It is best to use RV Antifreeze to pump through the lines when in extreme temperatures to ensure that nothing freezes. What factors impact how quickly your water will freeze? Water Mass - 6gallons of water will take longer to freeze compared to 1ml of water. The valves inside your camper may have less than 1ml of water resting on them as you travel creating a potential freeze condition. Water Temperature - The starting temperature of the water before it loses its heat source. Water that is in the cold lines may already be at 50 degrees and it only has to drop to 32 degrees for it to freeze. Hot water in the lines requires even less time compared to cold water to freeze. Outside Temperature - If the outside temperature is 0 degrees then the inside temperature will fall faster than when traveling in 32 degree weather. Speed of Travel - When traveling down the roads at 70mph the wind chills across the camper can drop the temperature quicker. *When traveling during the winter months please keep up with each states laws for campers. Many states do not allow the propane system to be on while driving on roadways, bridges, and tunnels. Space heaters may keep the main cabin warm but may not provide a sufficient heat source for the water lines between the shells.

Jason, I was not suggesting that Oliver host this content, but rather to simply provide links to content on YouTube, or WordPress, or some other site. I think that this would not be a problem for your two concerns about having other people’s copyright/protected content on your site, or for being flagged by search engines for duplicate content. Is there a problem if you just link to outside content? The forum currently contains links to YouTube, blogs, and Amazon. I think for links to blogs, it would probably be good to get permission. My 2 ¢ worth.

We have been using this one for several years in the camper. No compressor and very low amp draw. I carry it with us on long trips and also use the larger version in our garage. It works great in the camper. https://www.amazon.com/EcoSeb-DD122EA-SIMPLE-Desiccant-Dehumidifier-15-Pint/dp/B00KHJIC04/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1518632975&sr=1-1&keywords=ecoseb+desiccant+dehumidifier&dpID=41LrblthRUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Here is our new Oliver Legacy Elite II. We ended up having to have it towed to us by Trusted Transport/Vince Dwyer, who did a great job.