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We have been on the road now for 75+ days. Some of the roads we have traveled have been less then smooth.(Dirt,Gravel, BLM) While in Grand Junction CO, I was filling the propane tanks at Tractor Supply. I noticed both connections on the hoses at the tanks to the regulator had developed leaks. Holy s--t batman! Luckily, T.S. had Mr. Heater replacements. Replaced and rechecked for leaks, O.K. so far so good. Our hull #104 2015, Please remember to do a leak test on your hose fittings.

Showing off my new cutting board. It's stunning & if it were a little bit bigger, I could use it at home too! Thank you Foy. Your craftsmanship is exceptional!

Yes, with the key.

I had a noise coming from my PD4060K Power Control Center only when plugged in to shore power, with the charger in storage mode at 13.2 volts and with nothing on in the camper. The charger will normally make a faint hum, but this was a loud noise. The instant anything was switched on the noise would either change pitch or completely quit. KountryKamper listened to it at the rally and told me some things to try but I couldn’t get the noise to stop. I called Progressive Dynamics and told them what was happening and they immediately said that they were aware of the problem and would send me a new converter module. The following picture shows the old and new modules side by side on my work bench. The new larger module fit in the space where the smaller old module had been. This photo shows the edge of the old module that can be seen with the front panel removed from the power center. This photo shows the edge of the new module that can be seen with the front panel removed from the power center. Again, the charger will normally make a faint hum but if you have a loud noise coming from your converter there is a fix available.

Hi! We are Kim and David Thompson, RV Newbies, from Waynesville, NC. In January we had made the decision to purchase a new Airstream 19' Flying Cloud - even had a downpayment in place. A week later while camping at St George State Park in Florida, we noticed a shiny white camper in the campsite next to us. Sitting around the campfire that night we googled Oliver Travel Trailers, then waited and waited the next morning for the owners to come out their door - I just had to get inside and take a look! Turns out the owners actually live just 25 minutes away from us in Western North Carolina! Long story short, we were overwhelmingly impressed, so we rerouted our trip home to include a factory tour in Hohenwald - then cancelled our Airstream order! After deliberating, researching, and making all the tough decisions on colors, surfaces, bells and whistles, our Ollie went into production in early May and we will be driving to Hohenwald July 29th to pick her up the following morning. We are literally counting down the days -and filling the guest room with "Ollie stuff"! Many many thanks to the members of this forum - being new to RV camping we've gathered so much helpful information already - and it feels so great to know when we run into problems we will have a great team of support at our fingertips. We are really looking forward to being a part of the Ollie Community!

I have been finding small bits of aluminum on the rear bunks right under the windows. I pulled the rear side window shades off and found 2 of the 6 screws on each side were stripped out. Rear window was ok but found 2 more stripped out at the dinette window. So out of 22 window shade screws 6 were stripped out. Not loose. Stripped out. I replaced them with the next size up, #10 x 1 inch SS pan head sheet metal screws. Had to enlarge the hole in the clips using a step bit. If you have to replace some of yours, hand tighten them only using an old-timey hand operated screwdriver.

townesw, Agree with Steve, easy and simple fix. Good work! Mainiac, Here's the spring location in the frame John mentions. Made some drawings while re-threading some of ours. Started a thread about this job, I need to find it again! Spring connected to the cords:

Maniac: You can make the adjustment. Pull the window shade out of the clips. Lay shade frame face down on the bunk. Opposite the shade you want to tighten you will find a small spring in a groove in the frame with nylon strings tied at each end. Working with a small screwdriver and a needle (or something similar) undo the knot at one end of the spring and tighten (shorten) the string. 1/4 inch should be enough. Repeat for the string on the other end of the spring. You will be surprised at how much additional “hold” there will be. Don’t over tighten the strings or they will wear out prematurely. Good luck! John Shkor, SailorsAshore

Good work, a simple and easy fix. Thanks for the heads up. I need to check ours to see if any of them need attention. Think maybe I’ll get around to rotating the window shades at the same time.

LOL! Once upon a time my car battery was dead & I panicked for a second or two (okay, maybe ten) because my keyless entry didn't work.

Foy, If one side of the suspension truck is mounted farther back on the frame than on the other side, the trailer will not track straight. You can look for this in your rear view mirrors while driving. Sight back along the side of the trailer, looking through your mirrors, and project where that line hits the road, way behind you. As though you were sigting along the seam line looking aft. Or, put another way, look for objects that the rear corner doesn't quite obscure, way behind you. Do this on both sides, as you drive and you'll see if you are looking at spots way off to one side of the road, or not. If tracking straight, you should be looking at spots nearly straight behind you on the road. I've noticed that mine is slightly off, but not enough to worry about. If your right side wheels are farther back, you'll be looking at a spots to the right of the road. From the picture you posted, it looks like both wheels are aft of their ideal position, but if only one was aft, the one hitting the fender, it could be a broken spring center bolt ar a broken leaf. Another possibility is that the leaf springs on one side are backward. Sometimes, springs are directional and the center bolt is not on center. A quick measurement from the axle to the rear spring mounting bolt, on each side would confirm this is not the problem. Another quick check to add some data would be to park on a level surface and look at the shackles. Do this after stopping in a straight line so the affect of cornering doesn't factor in. Are all four resting at about the same angle? At the factory, they install zinc discs on the frame just ahead of the truck frame, on the bottom of the aluminum rail. This is about the diameter of a quarter and 1/4" thick. On mine, it looks like a mounting reference point with both truck rails pushed up against it. Look at yours and see if there is a gap on one side. Finally, if you can't find the discrepancy, get out a tape measure and measure from the ball, or a suitable center point up front, to the front of the tires on each side. I suspect the truck is crooked with one side farther aft.

Welcome from another Thompson family. I’m sure you’ll be happy with your decision. This is our first trailer as well. The hard part is waiting to pick it up! Mike

Welcome, we were in the same dilemma almost 14 months ago. Except we didn't even consider the spare room. We had more room in the garage. We set up the Camp Chef stove so we could try out the oven. We found we needed a folding table to set it on. Then the chairs, and another table for between the chairs, and a mat. A tool box, pillows, bedding, food, dishes, eating utensils, towels (paper and cotton) water, hoses, extension cords, adapters, and totes for the little stuff, whew. Then we had to see where, along with the dog, where it was all going to fit in the truck. Being 1500 to 1800 miles away we didn't want to run back home for something. We had blocking, chocks, even some firewood, and strike anywhere matches, even a toaster. Then came the realisation that they had stores like Tractor Supply, Wally World, and regional grocery stores near by. We probably could have left a lot at home. We are glad that we had an extra water hose, fittings and hose for sewer, and a 30 amp extension cord. Amazing how many times a campgrounds facilities are just out of reach. We are still removing "stuff" we have not used... We are most thankful that we found the Oliver. We started our research by looking at the Airstreams. Most of the used ones ads said new floors all done, and maybe only $600 or so for a nice polish job. Hmmm.

Kim & David - Now that you are on board we have just about all corners of this mountain covered in Ollies. I really didn't enjoy the wait and it seemed like a very long winter between the order and the pickup. However, it certainly was worth it. If you ever plan to get over here on the south side of the mountain send me a PM and hopefully we can get together. Bill

Same last name and similar experience. I spent about a year deciding on the purchase of a 27' front bedroom Airstream. Negotiated a price, decided on a tow vehicle and called the dealer to place the order. The fellow I was dealing with was on vacation so I decided to wait until he returned. Then I found the Oliver on the web. Drove to the factory and ordered an Elite II in October 2015. Haven't looked back!

Welcome! I'm also curious about your thoughts as an almost-Airstream owner. We never considered Airstream mostly due to the aluminum (we get hail here) but also cost and not enough ground clearance. I laughed about the guest room comment. Ours is in the same condition!

Congratulations! I am anxious to hear more about your comparison shopping with an Airstream. After 12 years Off the Grid Boondocking with two Airstreams, a 23 foot and currently a 25 foot, we are waiting to see our first Oliver in the Rocky Mountain West. After eight years we had 'Boondocked' the 23 foot Airstream to handle National Forest and BLM roads and wash board road vibrations with hardware upgrades ourselves. This is currently being done to our 2014- 25 foot Airstream. This time 'piano hinges' to cabinet doors that use hinges that vibrate loose on mountain roads. You have an excellent Tow Vehicle with the 5.7L engine and solid transmission. When near Boulder City, Nevada... I sure would like to get a... peek.

OK you got me. I don't know jack about drum brakes, let alone electric drum brakes. Do you know of any good resources online where I can learn this material? Electrical troubleshooting I can figure out but I'm concerned about John's findings, and that I have no idea what he's talking about with regard to what he did. Yeah I can "just Google it" but when you don't know what you don't know, it's difficult to separate the wheat from the chaff. I would greatly appreciate any tips or links to quality resources.

I'm glad that yours are working. Mine are not. Oliver's insistence on using the Dexter kit was a small disaster, I think. I would recommend that anyone wishing to have disc brakes do the install themselves, or use a third party, using the same equipment as Steve.

Update on Disc Brakes: It has now been more than 7 months since my install. We have pulled the OO-II about 13000 miles since then. From here to northern Washington and from here to extreme eastern Tennessee and a couple of trips back and forth to the factory with two different tow vehicles. The brakes have performed flawlessly. I did have to adjust the on board brake controller down a couple of points to keep them from locking up all four wheels at one time. I have crawled under it several times to make sure there were no fluid leaks. I had a problem at the initial install with a fitting leaking and it took replacing the fitting to get it to stop. Apparently, it was defective from the factory but it made me a little gun-shy about leaks. Not a drop since. I am happy with them.

Several have asked about costs and a parts list. I installed disc brakes on The Outlaw Oliver this past March. I posted about it in my thread "Mods of The Outlaw Oliver." I chose to use the Hydrastar/Kodiak products and a list of all parts, their costs and where I got them is listed in the included pdf.

Well I finally bit the bullet and installed disc brakes on the Outlaw Oliver. It was not a particularly hard task, not nearly so much as installing the Dexter EZ-Flex system. The cost was just under $1300. See the Oliver-Disc-Brakes-Chart.pdf for a complete break down of what I bought and where.