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Will the range light? After changing out tanks or after prolonged storage, we sometimes have enough air in the lines that the furnace has a difficult time lighting or won’t light at all. I will usually then light the range briefly to at least purge the air from the lines to the range top. Usually the furnace will then light.

When a tank is empty likely an appliance was on. When the propane gas stops flowing, the line pressure is equalized to atmospheric. With connection of a fuller tank, and opening the valve there is a surge of flow. The OPD thinks there is a line rupture (Too high flow) and cuts off the flow. Until now, I had always thought I had to disconnect the hose from the tank to reset the OPD. Apparently not according to AI. AI says just turn off the valve. Here is more AI thoughts. (LOL that sounds weird.... AI Thoughts???): Safety feature: The OPD is designed to protect against dangerous situations like rapid gas release, which could occur if the tank valve is opened too quickly or if there is a sudden high demand for propane. How it works: When the flow rate exceeds a predetermined limit, the OPD valve within the tank automatically closes, restricting the gas flow. What to do if this happens: If your propane tank stops flowing gas due to high demand, simply turn off the tank valve for a few seconds and then slowly open it again to reset the OPD. Other potential reasons for low gas flow from a propane tank: Low tank level: As the propane level in the tank decreases, the pressure also drops, leading to reduced gas flow. Faulty regulator: A malfunctioning regulator on the tank can also limit the gas flow. Cold weather: In cold temperatures, the vaporization rate of propane can be reduced, causing lower gas pressure. Improper connection: A loose or damaged hose connection to the tank can restrict gas flow. GJ

If a tank valve is opened too quickly the flow of gas can be shut down. Turn the valve slowly at first, but only enough for gas to begin to flow; then wait several seconds before turning the valve fully open. It is always good practice to purge the lines as @Rolind suggests in the manner described.

Something about this line of posts drove me to go back and check Jason's video about servicing our jacks. His video clearly shows the use of two different greases: The first is the connection point between the head unit and the foot jack leg unit. It depicts the red Mystic grease used on the suspension. Further into the video it shows the Mobilith white grease for the gear box: As dmtaylor 2 reported, removal of the three set screws can be difficult. If you find this to be the case, consider getting and using an impact tool. Many old motorcycle mechanics still have and use one of these: But even just mildly impacting the case with a Hand Impact tool can cause this: So I recommend using one of these: To get all three screws out, you'll likely need to remove the jack to frame mounting bolts. And that is a PITA for the two rear jacks. But that is far better than this: GJ .

I installed GasStop valves on each tank, which has an integral purging feature. Also great for use with gas grills, fire pits, etc., when auxiliary lines are connected to a spare tank or directly to one of the Oliver tanks

I installed a Dreiha Atmos 4.4 from SDG; 15K AC/12K Heat 120V. I featured my self-install in a post in Ollie Modifications titled ‘Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Home Install’, September 18, 2024. Also checkout @rideadeuce’s install and post titled ‘Dreiha Atmos 4.4 Installed by SDG’, July 17, 2024.

I don’t trust AI interpretations. Seems like everybody is trying to ram AI down your throat. Google returns an AI “synopsis” ahead of actual search hits, Yahoo Mail was summarizing my emails. I shut that off. Fully half the time it was getting it wrong - often exactly wrong. AI just grabs web content. That could be from sponsored sites, or crowdsourced sites that may or may not even be correct. I tend to skip right over the AI summary, blow past the sponsored sites, and scroll down to a source that at least sounds objective and reliable. (I had to turn off the valve, AND remove and reattach the POL connector to get the tank selector to show green. )

Some heaters, maybe all have a feature that will stop further attempts to ignite after a certain number of failed attempts. Our is three. If this happens it can often be reset by turning the heat off and then back on.

Yeah, opening the cylinder valve too fast can trigger a safety feature inside the tank; specifically an ‘excess flow valve’, at least as best I understand it.

I had a similar issue a few days ago. Ran out one tank, furnace stopped lighting. (It quit trying after two or three failures to light.) I shut off the empty tank, turned on the full tank, and flipped the tank selector to the full one. Indicator turned green. Furnace lit right off. Next morning, no heat again. Checked the tank. Indicator on selector was red. Flipped it back and forth, no joy. Closed the full tank valve and reopened it. Voila! Indicator green, all is right with the world. Just weird though. BTW - I never turn both tanks on. I operate off of one until it’s dry. Then switch. I just don’t want the automatic switchover to do its thing and ME not realize I’m eating up my reserves! Only had to do the purging of air using the cooktop once. I think the Truma WH instructions mention that fix for a non-lighting condition.

OK, I get your question now. The "l-o-n-g" part internal to the "Post Assembly" is not a serviceable unit. Check the parts diagram in the manual. There must be some sealed drive assembly internal to the assembly. I just extended mine fully and cleaned the exterior down to the stainless steel. Some earlier in this thread suggested lube on the external post but I still maintain a year later to merely leave it dry. The Original grease on mine had hardened dry. I wanted it all cleaned out and wanted a better high-temp grease than that brown crud! Just because they don't say so, doesn't mean so! There is no clutch. I had the unit down to every individual part. The ratcheting sound is the drive gear being turned by the motor while the main gear hits the stop. You can see the slight damage to the drive gear in my pictures. This gear is part of the motor assembly, so replacement means new motor. Being careful, I have not heard that ratcheting sound ever since I rebuilt mine. I use 8" blocks on the rear and as soon as they are free I leave the post at that height, usually the height of the wheel centers. I keep my eye on the front and always leave it a few inches below the stop.

Bulldog shocks are a bit beefier and look like they are well made. Easy swap. Leaf springs look good, still on the fence about upgrading to the Alcan 5 leaf springs. Clips were loose on both springs on the right. Center bolt nut on the left EZ flex was loose and about to fall off. All of the Monroe shocks seemed to be in good working order just rusty. Future plans include the ALCAN highway so trying to get everything done now. New tires in the morning. https://www.4statetrucks.com/bulldog-hd-shock-absorber-replaces-555001-19-050000007 Wildpeak H/T02 LT225/75R16 E/10PLY BSW *** Now back to torquing the shocks so that the cushion is the same diameter as the metal retainer but not larger. ***

Thanks to Neil’s RV in Orem Utah! Our ‘shakedown’ trip completed (5000 miles over 18 days!) with 50-70 mph crosswind gusts… Very happy!

We used to run our jacks up until they clicked, until one jack wouldn’t reseat and I had to use the manual handle. That was in the first couple of months back in 2016. Since then we run them up to about an inch of shaft showing. It takes two to do that, or one checking a couple of times. Mike

Agreed, this should be standard operating procedure. My wife does this by habit every time she asks me to turn the gas on. Then we switch fridge to LP and the hot water heater on LP (when boondocking). I've never had to turn the gas on slowly, did not realize there is an internal safety valve. Did you check the fuse in the 12V fuse panel?

Unfortunately another rally site will be available on 3-5-25. We are unable to attend the 2025 rally and site E18 will be available this afternoon. The site is currently reserved for 4-23-25 through 5-7-25. You will need to contact the Lake Guntersville Campground office directly.

Thanks for the tip! 🙂

I'm sorry Steve, maybe I'm wrong re Truma, but remember somebody writing a 15A number on this forum. It's hard to say with your setup plugged in. How many amps are being supplied by shore power and is it being supplemented by your Xantrex? Have you ever run it inverter/LiFePO4 only and measured amps from start-up to cool on a hot day? Just looked and Truma advertises 12A on high with an asterisk which states 95F external temp and 80F thermostat setting. This likely means 12A to maintain 80F with fan high. It's not like turning the air on one afternoon when it's 98F outside, 92F inside and you want to get it down to 76F. How many amps when full on compressor, high fan in harsh conditions? I did this test on our Dometic P2 and at started at 15A, then 16A and closer to 17A an hour later when the unit got hot from working hard. Truma is not a viable option for me and many owners who want to replace the Dometic Penguin II. They do not sell to the aftermarket, so given OEM installation, time and travel expenses puts total costs far out of reach for me and many others.

Galileo: Smart move with the manual raise/lower crank handle. For the "jammed in full -up position"; I have retract our Barkers until they click the clutch. Then I reverse them down momentary to ensure that they are not stored under tension. To do so, we only need to lower them just a tad. Then when we want to lower the jacks, they are not jammed each time....and eventually they are not stuck. Barker uses a white Monolith grease. As such, it appears that your 2019 trailer likely had been serviced, as you mention, with red grease. Likely using John D.'s DIY post which says use CV-2. This could be a reason your disassembly was so difficult. Doing the exhaustive cleaning necessary without a commercial parts washer and a total disassembly is why I did not follow JD's suggestion to use CV-2 for the jacks. Mixing greases is bad. I figured that the extra cost of the Amazon Mobilith SHC 460 Grease was no where near the PITA and my time to convert. I suspect that after your experience, you would agree. Glad you were able to get yours fixed, and sorry for the trouble and expense it caused.

John stated, …”Read page 2 of this thread…”

A couple of things: First - I agree with your assessment of the video. They only show inspecting and lubricating the electric drive part of the jack. You could take that whole part off and throw it away and just use the crank if need be. (No batteries?) Now I’m unclear on the “over-extended” comment. During our deliver orientation, the Oliver employee had us run the jacks up (retracted) until there was a “ratcheting” sound. I assumed that was a torque-limiting device. Or is it the gears stripping themselves?(!) (Since my tongue jack got “jammed” in the fully retracted position once, I no longer run it all the way up! I guess I’ll start doing that with all three jacks.) My front jack is occasionally a little noisy - but I think this is more due to the jack getting some side force on it more than wear or lack of lubrication - at least lubrication of parts lived in the OTT or YouTube videos I’ve seen. Not sure where you mean when you say “page two”. Do you mean the second page of comments on this thread? If not, where? (Thanks!) I did run my question about servicing the lover end or “guts” of the jack by the folks at Barker. They invited me to call and chat, but I haven’t circled back that way.

@Galileo this may be the other A/C model you were looking for. I witnessed @Ronbrink’s installation in action. Very quiet, very efficient and runs at 10A on 120VAC compared to 16A or greater for Penguin and Truma, not sure re amperage on the Houghton. This model is on my list for Apr-May since we are traveling all of June this year. The efficiency of this unit will allow us to run A/C considerably longer on inverter!

I think if a jack motor went bad, I’d go with the hand crank. Hopefully the PO of your trailer included it. I needed to use mine once to “break loose” the front jack when it jammed in the fully-up position and the motor just ratcheted the torque limiter.

Some of those stops look familiar. I’m sure I have pics somewhere. Did the NOLA to Grand Canyon route last year and hit Winslow, Homolovi, Church Rock, Palo Dura, Sedona, Carlsbad, et al. We didn’t really follow Rt 66 - but did bounce on it a few times. (Watch out for that black wasp with the bright orange wings! A “Tarantula Assassin” I think they call it. Reputed to have the most painful sting known. “All you can do is lay there and scream”….)

I missed one - Tow Vehicles.pdf

The age thing is definitely overrated... We had ours done 18 months ago. We used to wax, but after a long trip cleaning the Mojo took considerable elbow grease. We returned from a long trip in 10/24 and the Mojo hadn't been washed in over 2 months. It cleaned up easily. Black drip stains wiped away with almost no effort. Even bugs were easier to remove. It looks better than new. So I'd say it is definitely worth the money given the cleaning and waxing time saved, and the appearance of the cleaned fiberglass. Ours is garaged and we use RockTamers. Ditto!

You can't run from it but you can run with it. Stay mobile, stay strong.

Nice, excellent design idea!

It was so cold here the other morning I saw a politician with his hands in his own pockets, and no spare tire! 😂 Ba da bum!

Did the ranger have them turn their rig around so their streetside was against the campground hookups, or did they just keep their curbside facing you but with more room? I haven't camped at Mustang Island State Park since the '80's, but in a tent on the beach. Google Maps show the RV sites to alternate head-in/back-in with no pull throughs, making it difficult to disconnect your TV if you have a head-in site. It is an odd layout. This probably works well for motorhomes, but not so much for trailers. Usually when every other campsite shares the same electric hookup the sites are pull-throughs that work well for all types of campers. Steve

Though we’ve run into a few rude, noisy, encroaching, obnoxious folks -luckily not too many. Sometimes, it’s the result of a poorly laid-out campground. When the fire ring, picnic table, or grill are on the street side - sometimes people don’t know which is theirs. There’s a few sites like that here at Fontainebleau State Park in Mandeville, LA. Those are perfect when two families wanna bring their trailers and share the space between them. Otherwise, not so much. Most obnoxious ones are when folks totally blow off the people/vehicle limitation. At Flamingo Campground at Everglades NP - there were no fewer than twenty trucks with boats on trailers congregating at one camp site - drinking and guffawing late into the night. Camp host? Safely segregated far away from all campers. They finally departed about 11:30pm. Still, the mosquitoes are the reason I won’t be back there.

Thank You Bill will wait to hear from you. Sorry you are not making it this year. Thank You Mike & Carol I have always enjoyed reading your post and Knowledge. Look forward to meeting ya,ll in person if you are coming to the Rally.

Hey John we are just up the road from you…Indianola Beach! How long will you be there, we were thinking of taking a drive to Corpus Christi area, maybe we can swing by to say hello?

Perhaps even more important is the load capacity - how much stuff can it carry? Find the sticker inside the driver's door jam and then add up your hitch weight, plus all the other things you carry (like people, dogs, equipment in the bed, etc.) and compare those two numbers. Most 1/2 trucks have a "limited" capacity in this regard. Bill Posted from a sage brush field outside Meeteetse, WY

Nice truck, but I can't see it handling very well in the water... 🦆🚣‍♂️

A slightly less cost approach....... 2021 Elite 2....just completed replacement of my Dometic jet engine with the Truma Aventa Eco. It was installed by the Lakeland Florida Truma service center. So far, it seems to work as advertised...no opinion yet using the remote...seems simple. Hot weather performance test pending!!! For the heater....the Truma installer recommended we keep/use the Dometic AC control box and thermostat vs a mechanical or Emerson digital thermostat. I used the propane heater while camping this last week. Using the Dometic thermostat was no issue. Cost = $2,705 walk out price....includes Aventa ECO, Aventa Air Distributor, Condensate drain kit and installation labor. (included tax was 7%)

THIS SITE HAS NOW BEEN TAKEN Unfortunately, I will not be able to attend this year's Rally.😪 But, before I cancel my campsite reservation I thought that I'd let anyone know that might be interested so that they could grab a very nice site down by the lake. The details are as follows: Site number - E35 (30-50 amp electric, water and sewer) Arrive April 29, 2025 Depart May 5, 2025 # of days total - 6 nights Let me know if you are interested and we'll figure out how to get the site to you. Bill p.s.

After 40 years of camping I thought I have it all. NOPE. We are camped at Mustang Island State Park in Corpus Christi, TX. The campground is a bit quirky as half the sites have the table, shelter, grill, and fire pit on the usual curb side of the trailer, while the other half are located on the back side (street side). There are 2 table areas side by side, so a large space between trailers. Elsewhere there is a small buffer are where the electric hookups are. On the first night our neighbors on the street side decided to set-up in the buffer area and invite friends over. They set up their fire pit on our site, propane tank 4' from our trailer and fire pit about 4.5' from our trailer. They set up several chairs 2' from our trailer and under the dinette window. They also had a spot lite on the was aimed at our window. Turns out they have a big outdoor TV on the street side. What the HE__ were they thinking? The Ranger observed this and had conversation with the husband. The wife came flying out of the trailer and injected herself in the conversation. In the end they moved to where they should have been. Very rude, but a good laugh.