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Thanks Galileo and everyone - I learned a lot :). The indicator switch turned out to be the clue - I just had to keep closing and opening the tank valve until it showed green - and now I know to open slowly and am prepared for the next time 🙂

You can effortlessly take the entire rear jack out in 10 minutes by removing only two bolts. I’ve done both of mine several times each. Then you can take the jack to the shop and work on any part of it. If anyone at the rally is interested, I will be happy to show you how it’s done.

Just one oxygen molecule.

Hi all, We’ve been using a Sun Oven International solar cooker for 20+ years - long before we even got our Oliver. We picked up this cute little toy at an alternative energy fair in Wisconsin many moons ago and used it extensively back on our farm in Texas. Cooking in the Oliver is fine - but trying to cook a big roast (what’s in there right now) in the convection oven is a bit much. Might be a blessing in the winter, but in the summer would be quite uncomfortable. This one has been through the mill. It’s pretty cheaply built, and the original wooden frame around the glass succumbed to being rained on once too often, so I made a new one out of better wood. Other than that, it’s served well. Anyway - just curious if there are any fans out there. What ovens are you using if so, and how things are working for you.

Worthington Industries lists a 30# steel tank at 23.3 lbs tare weight (empty) and a 30# aluminum tank at 16.5 lbs Tare weight. 6.8 lb difference x 2 tanks = 13.6 lbs Sorry I didn't check a 20 vs a 30. Bill

The two that go thru the frame.

I'm a fan, but don't have one. I'd love to learn more about how you have used it, successfully.

Agreed, I locked my tanks and battery tray because the time it took was to drill a couple holes and as you can see in my picture, I used old padlocks from years past. I did spend on duplicate keys since I like Chris and I to each have a full sett of keys! 😂

John, I know you will do your research on this, after your dive please post up your info. I feel sure others would like to know. My initial thought is the weight difference may not be enough to justify the added expense of aluminum tanks at least for me. Another reason we opted to roll with a 1 ton diesel truck. Safe Travels! CAMP, CAMP, CAMP!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🫡

There may not be enough room for this style preferred lock. @johnwen check for clearance on any lock you chose before you drill. My padlock just made the clearance and the round style may not. If it does clear the side wall it may protrude outward keeping the battery door from closing. Has anybody installed this style of round shackle-protected lock?

Think of it as a sun-powered crock pot. Anything you’d cook in the oven or stovetop is fair game. I find it best for large cuts of meat that require “low and slow” cooking to be their best are good candidates. Pot roast, pork shoulder roast, corned beef, I’ve even done pork ribs. So long as it’s a clear, sunny day it’s powered up. Cloudy days aren’t good. Windy days can be a challenge, but still workable. Doesn’t matter much what the ambient temperature is. You can do bread and cookies and other such things as well. We’ve decided be bread and brownies. In remote areas where people don’t have clean water, they use these to “pasteurize” water. They DO require that you attend to them - changing the azimuth and elevation of the oven as the sun “moves” (we do know it’s really the earth moving, right? 😋) This is more of a factor early and late in the day than midday. We find it to be a fun addition to our cooking methods and would be great for boondockers!

John, Another lock option which is a little more difficult to get a bite on with a bolt cutters. If nothing else makes it more difficult. Not seeing many reports of batteries being stolen at least from Olivers, I suppose it is a peace of mind especially for those that keep their Oliver in a storage facility away from home. https://www.amazon.com/BRINKS-173-80051-Stainless-Resettable-Combination/ Hello to Wendy! David

Thanks Steve! Do you remove the two carriage bolts you see clearly in the picture or the two that go through the frame? (Only the heads of these bolts can be seen in the picture.)

That rotary switch disconnects the solar panels but not the batteries. If you have Lithionics batteries, each one should have a power switch on top. As long as it's above freezing you can turn them off. (Otherwise, there are specific instructions for cold winter storage.) Just make sure the inverter is off (silver button off) before turning the batteries off or back on later. They shouldn't be powered up under a large load.

I don’t trust AI interpretations. Seems like everybody is trying to ram AI down your throat. Google returns an AI “synopsis” ahead of actual search hits, Yahoo Mail was summarizing my emails. I shut that off. Fully half the time it was getting it wrong - often exactly wrong. AI just grabs web content. That could be from sponsored sites, or crowdsourced sites that may or may not even be correct. I tend to skip right over the AI summary, blow past the sponsored sites, and scroll down to a source that at least sounds objective and reliable. (I had to turn off the valve, AND remove and reattach the POL connector to get the tank selector to show green. )

Something about this line of posts drove me to go back and check Jason's video about servicing our jacks. His video clearly shows the use of two different greases: The first is the connection point between the head unit and the foot jack leg unit. It depicts the red Mystic grease used on the suspension. Further into the video it shows the Mobilith white grease for the gear box: As dmtaylor 2 reported, removal of the three set screws can be difficult. If you find this to be the case, consider getting and using an impact tool. Many old motorcycle mechanics still have and use one of these: But even just mildly impacting the case with a Hand Impact tool can cause this: So I recommend using one of these: To get all three screws out, you'll likely need to remove the jack to frame mounting bolts. And that is a PITA for the two rear jacks. But that is far better than this: GJ .

When a tank is empty likely an appliance was on. When the propane gas stops flowing, the line pressure is equalized to atmospheric. With connection of a fuller tank, and opening the valve there is a surge of flow. The OPD thinks there is a line rupture (Too high flow) and cuts off the flow. Until now, I had always thought I had to disconnect the hose from the tank to reset the OPD. Apparently not according to AI. AI says just turn off the valve. Here is more AI thoughts. (LOL that sounds weird.... AI Thoughts???): Safety feature: The OPD is designed to protect against dangerous situations like rapid gas release, which could occur if the tank valve is opened too quickly or if there is a sudden high demand for propane. How it works: When the flow rate exceeds a predetermined limit, the OPD valve within the tank automatically closes, restricting the gas flow. What to do if this happens: If your propane tank stops flowing gas due to high demand, simply turn off the tank valve for a few seconds and then slowly open it again to reset the OPD. Other potential reasons for low gas flow from a propane tank: Low tank level: As the propane level in the tank decreases, the pressure also drops, leading to reduced gas flow. Faulty regulator: A malfunctioning regulator on the tank can also limit the gas flow. Cold weather: In cold temperatures, the vaporization rate of propane can be reduced, causing lower gas pressure. Improper connection: A loose or damaged hose connection to the tank can restrict gas flow. GJ

Thanks to Neil’s RV in Orem Utah! Our ‘shakedown’ trip completed (5000 miles over 18 days!) with 50-70 mph crosswind gusts… Very happy!

Steph & Dud B, I have the lithium pro package (390AH). And yes, I am referring to the red rotary switch in the cabinet over the street side bed. It is stored outdoors but with overhead cover. Mike, Yes, it stored under overhead cover. Thanks for the feedback.

I installed GasStop valves on each tank, which has an integral purging feature. Also great for use with gas grills, fire pits, etc., when auxiliary lines are connected to a spare tank or directly to one of the Oliver tanks

I assume your storage location has overhead cover so your solar is reduced. Mine is too. When I store I turn my batteries off. I have an older trailer and I installed a cutoff switch in the battery compartment that sits on top of the batteries. I think the new trailers have a separate cutoff switch somewhere. I’d turn your batteries off. Mike

Could you provide more info? What type of batteries do you have? Are you talking about the red rotary switch in the cabinet over the street side bed? (That's the solar disconnect.) Is it stored indoors or outdoors?

Sure, NP. I also put a 1" thick square of foam in front of the lock so it does not rattle on the fiberglass door. Best wishes John, to you and Wen!

To your point, I weave a metal cable through the tank handles as further deterrent/securement; the looped ends are on the center threaded stock.

Tucumcari makes a great spot to stop. Before and after attached - our first fiberglass trailer (Happier Camper HC-1) and our “last” fiberglass trailer (Reset 2.0 LE II #1364)

Ok, it was sure more than a Day or Two, For those interested in the Houghton 3400 Thermistor Relocation project, the attachments are for you. I have attached GSMBear's write-up as a base reference on the concept. Study it well. My DIY Supplement addresses OTT specific info that will for sure make your life easier should you elect to do the Thermistor Relo mod. Enjoy, GJGSM BEAR V2 RecPro Houghton Interior Fan Mod v2.pdfDIY Supplement to GSM Bear's Thermistor Mod (30 JULY 2024).docx

For the most part - Jason (W) makes and/or posts these types of posts by copying them from other sources. Therefore, the specific brands, models, and other details contained in any specific post of this sort is not necessarily Oliver specific and are generally meant for "general" reminders or "general" information. In this specific example - we are being reminded to change the batteries in our installed safety devices - no matter which devices they really are. Bill

Similar issue I think. Stereo went black between campgrounds. There is a 15Amp fuse that the schematic shows. I pulled the fuse which was fine. Then using my multimeter I checked wire #15 at the plug, black to #16, red to #15. I was getting 13+ volts at the harness so all was good there. I also submitted a ticket with Oliver but they referred me to Furrion. The number in my manual to Furrion is no longer valid. At some point Lippert bought out Furrion so I contacted Lippert. After a short wait the tech told me since I have power past the fuse it is an internal issue. Mine is in a 2022 LEII so it's out of warranty. They don't stock parts so their best advice was buy another one. Would love to fine one that fit the same hole in the trailer but was made in America instead of China. I told the guy although it's been over a year as far as date, the actual unit probably only has about 6 months of use. He said he understood. He sent me the link to order a new one, $367.95 is hard for me to justify for a 6 month product. Im hoping yours was just the fuse.

So after a 2 1/2 year period of owing our Elite II and setting outside in the Texas sun our fiberglass gelcoat was beginning to show some chalking and dulling and in need of a buff and wax job. Now being a retired body shop mgr. for some 35 years at a large DFW dealership doing the proper job was not a problem for me, but at 76 it wouldn't be doing it like I was 40, for sure. I used my 7" buffer and wool buffing pads, I used the Velcro system pads and buffer backing plate, the tie on pads are pretty much useless. I first buffed with Mequiar's #67 RV and Marine compound which did a very good job and really cut the oxidation, probably running the buffer back and fourth on the surface 8-10 times till the gelcoat what at a very high luster, due note here, the top of the trailer and ends we the most dulled areas on the trail, but I did the whole trail just because I didn't want to do a partial job when it comes to doing something. Due note here, I did have to use scaffolding to do the top, you will not be able to reach far enough in with a ladder, plus the scaffolding is much more safe for this old guy. I did the top and ends in one day and the sides the next day. Now for the Mequiar's Flagship RV and Marine polish which I put on by hand and took off with a orbital buffer and a polishing pad for it's final on this project, I hope this will last another couple of years before it needs another buff job, but will polish once a year to help preserve the finish. I watched several video's on YouTube on this and this guy knew what he was doing, or the way I would do it, trainman

Gen11 - Great looking Ollie! And, welcome to the Forum along with your new baby! Did you report those 4 UFO's in the sky of the middle pic?😉 Bill