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We found a great area up in the White Mountains of Arizona with the help of a couple retired cops. They were out turkey hunting and happened by us when we were deep in the woods and came to a crossroads. In both directions the signs read, "Not Suitable for RVs or Trailers." They said the road to the right was a bit rocky and the warnings are for when it rains or snows. We liked that the signs would keep most RVers away. Then they said, "Follow us and we'll take you to our marked campsite." Check the Campendium Map and compare our blue dot to the known campsites! Miles and hours of dirt between and dozens of campsites along the way. We'll keep our high country spot a secret for now and should be meeting some Oliver friends up there in July when the weather is perfect. However, when we left on Monday it was snowing and the daytime high was to be 42F. The campsite was at 8,920 ft and on the drive home we climbed a bit more and I snapped this compass shot at exactly 9,400 on AZ Hwy 273. It's amazing you can drive down a highway at this elevation in Arizona (common in CO of course) and see mountains above and lush meadows everywhere with streams and lakes.

The Anderson clamp bolts are Grade 5 5/8X11 UNC (coarse) threads. This is from Anderson's installation guide https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KvY0iopu7rUstsA_7XouHvCkT3Abs192/view "4-5. Make sure all brackets are clamped tightly — we recommend at least 75 ft-lbs of torque. If needed, you may torque the brackets up to 90 ft-lbs, as long as it does NOT compress the frame. IMPORTANT: Some lighter frames may begin to compress if torqued too high, so be aware of your frame’s capabilities." To be sure, get a torque recommendation from Oliver on how tight they want to see the clamp bolts on the aluminum frame. Anderson currently supplies a saddle that rests on the top and bottom of the frame for the clamp top and bottom bolts to help secure the frame clamp. I cannot find this part on their website, but they said they will send me a parts diagram showing the part, will pass it along to everyone here when received. Just received this from Anderson:

You owe Mossemi a pop or two. These photos were taken while camped in some forsaken campground where (I'm sure) they had mosquitos as big as 747's and alligators and all things of that nature. 🤣 Bill

Hope they help! Mossey

We just got back from our Albuquerque trip and it was our first outing with real highway miles, about 1000 miles roundtrip over the last 12 days. We are now getting BETTER performance with our Orion XS 50A DC-DC charger. I have seen charge rates often at 45-47A and once 48A was observed! Check out these pics. As soon as I read total charge of 58A (see 57.74A on right side) from the shunt reading, I switch to the Orion reading asap and it was at 46A (46.1A on left). The fridge was on DC but likely not pulling amps at the time, so the Blue Sky charger with 320W rooftop was supplying the extra 12A. We were at 59% SOC (of 600Ah) when leaving after two nights and was up to 82% when we arrived at our next camp. A 58A charge rate is likely the best case scenario, but no more worries about battery SOC%. You gotta get one of these!

@DaveAndBecky_NorthernMI notice the K-ratings on this table. You want the column for K .20 or K .17 if you are using a thread sealer. This table is better than having one torque # for all conditions.

This is a duplicate of a post I made on the Facebook Oliver owner’s page. I’m sharing here for those not on Facebook that may be interested in a dehumidifier option for their Oliver. We were experiencing rainy and cool weather at the rally and conditions in the Olivers were getting steamy. Facebook post: Temperature and humidity outside at Lake Guntersville state park are 62deg and 94% humidity this morning. Inside OllieHaus it’s a perfect 73 deg and thanks to our counter top dehumidifier, it’s a very comfortable 46% humidity with all windows closed. No heat or AC needed. Loving life in our Oliver!! Edit: Here’s a link on Amazon for the dehumidifier if interested: Dehumidifier

Looks like you have the Orion dialed in! Good to see how it and your rooftop solar play together.

We have 5200lb axles with 5 leaf spring packs on our LE-2 #75, probably like your Ollie. Some folks here have had one leaf of the Dexter 4 leaf spring pack (3500lb) to break, covered in another thread. Not aware of any of the Dexter 5 leaf spring packs having issues, yet. Here's the 12" brake drum on our 5200 pound axle with "Me-Pack" 🙃 axle bearings, I will continue packing my bearings so I can inspect brakes, drums and bearings during service. A few here have upgraded to disc brakes, very nice modification! Here's the original 5 leaf Dexter spring pack on our #75 Ollie 5200lb axle and spare Dexter 5 leaf pack before installing bronze bushings:

These did the trick! Thank you very much!!

Bolts are bolts and there are SAE (inches) and Metric (mm) bolts in multiple grades. I would assume those bolts are Grade 5 SAE (but could be metric). Measure the diameter which is likely 1/2" +/- and check this table for torque. I saved a picture of the table for convenience and the full PDF (good thing to have a printed copy in your truck or OTT Manual). The PDF also has a metric bolt torque table bottom of page. I always use torque tables from a reputable company, like this one from Fastenal, and I never take the time to check what each manufacturer states for standard bolts they merely purchase for their products (except something like a fine-thread crankshaft bolt where it really matter). It appears that the installer for your Anderson was not concerned with torque settings and will be much better when you set it back an inch and torque properly. Torque-Tension Reference Guide - Fastenal.pdf

Thanks Mossemi. I appreciate the response. I did see this and there were a couple inconsistencies between the drawing and my "as built". For example I have 3 wires coming out of motor (4th and last photo), not 2 as shown on drawing. Also, there is a double terminal on the toggle that controls the jack with connection for 2 wires one of which is shown on second pic. This is not indicated on drawing. This will teach me to take plenty of pics before removing stuff. Lesson learned....again. I think what would be most useful is if someone could send a couple pics of their jack showing the terminals and which wires go where. Thanks again.

This schematic and information is from Barker's website and may be of help! Mossey vip_3000_all_pages.pdf

I found a good welder!

That's in our back yard!

Glad you pointed this out. I did measure load in the camper that morning and on high it was drawing 1.75 amps / 125 watts. Regarding when we use this, I leave it on all the time while in storage and plugged in to keep humidity low in the Oliver during storage. For the situation this post was referring to, we were without power in the park due to storms, and the very low draw allowed us to remain in total comfort running only the dehumidifier throughout the night, and in the morning we still had 69% of our lithium batteries (640 a/h system) remaining on the Victron meter. We are currently reroute home so I will answer additional questions this evening.

I’m not a Facebook user either, so thanks for this.

I really appreciate the duplicate post in that I'm one of those that does not "do" Facebook. Bill

@mossemi I had to correct the attached Amazon Link. Should work now.

The Legacy II is a two-person rig which is realistically limited to one child sized visitor. There is good and bad news there. Bad news is that you really cannot realistically sleep more than 2 adults comfortably. Good news is that you really cannot realistically be expected to sleep more than two adults comfortably.

Next stop the Manzano Mountains NM SP…

Could this be the reason for our confusion? Rotated CRM's screen shot 180 degrees, white neutral is on top and green ground is on the bottom.

A couple of Ollies spotted at a Cracker Barrel somewhere in NW Alabama last night -- they were both pointing to an eastbound destination.

Welcome and Congrats. Nice bright campsite & rig. Did you get instruction the requirement to burnish in the brakes on your trailer? Since you picked it up at a dealer curious if it was towed there and the brakes were already burnished in. When we picked ours up at the factory, we had to burnish them in as part of our break in drive. Burnishing Brakes: Any time you have a new trailer, or have new brakes on an existing trailer, the electric drum style brakes must be burnished. (Broken in.) One procedure: On a lonely back road... Set the gain on your brake controller to 10 (or High) . Then drive up to 40 mph then using only the trailer brakes slow to 20. Drive a bit an repeat ....about 20 stops. Another way: On a 65mph highway, but in right lane...to drive at 60MPH. With control set on high or 10. Depress the controller for trailer only brakes for 1/2 Mile. Make sure you're not locking up brakes on trailer. After a 1/2 mile, pull over somewhere safe and smell/feel or measure with laser reader for hot brakes >350F on all 4 wheels. You may smell burning smells which are ok as you're trying to heat and seat the brakes. After burnishing (in either method) your brake controller can now be set to ~5 (or half) and should be setup for safe stopping. Here's our blog for future travel and outfitting inspiration: https://4-ever-hitched.com/trips-overview Welcome! Craig & Rose Hull 505 - aka Galway Girl

In my opinion - if you are going to spend virtually any time in the out of doors and/or where cell phone service can't be guaranteed then (if you can afford it) having one of these satellite communication devices is not a luxury but a necessity. Most of these can be used for many functions in addition to their SOS feature. These include: messaging, real time tracking by friends and loved ones, trip planning, "bread crumb trails", weather, etc. I spend the better part of two months each year in relatively remote places fishing and hiking - usually alone. Certainly it is comforting to know that I can get help in the event of a medical emergency and I can let my wife know that all is OK. I must admit however that I never considered many of the uses that are noted in the report above. In addition, during the hurricane Helene back in October, 2024 we were without telephone and internet for about 5 days (many others had it much worse) and the only communication that we had with the outside world was via our satellite communication device. We also (now) always carry it with us when going on trips in the event we have a vehicle or other issue. Bill p.s. No, I do not own stock in Garmin nor any other of these companies.😁

As for the original hub bearing manufacture my SWAG would be made in China bearings like the rest of the Dexter bearings. And yes, you would need to carry a spare hub. At the time I had our 3500# axles swapped out according to Jason at Oliver there were more than 200+ Olivers running the never lubes with zero failures reported to Oliver by owners. And so far no reported failures on here or the FB forum. My local Dexter dealer said they have never seen a reported failure on this particular hub. Not saying that you won’t ever have a failure as anything certainly is possible. They are never lube, not never fail. I could easily carry a spare hub but choose not to as these are available from Dexter and most shops. These 5200# axles are admittedly IMHO overkill for an OLE2, so I just don’t get overly concerned about a bearing failure. I really like the noticeable stopping power of the 12” drums on level roads. That said, with my diesel engine brake I rarely use truck or trailer brakes on long descents like Teton Pass or some of the higher passes in Colorado and areas out west or even here in the Blue Ridge Mountains. There are trade offs for sure. If it’s within an owners budget, I say have at it.

@John and Debbie I had Oliver Service swap out my 3500# axles to the never lube 5200# axles. I had no issues with my 3500# axles, but just prefer having the never lube bearings and larger axle and 10” drum brakes. On our trip out west last fall, I made an appt with Lew at Alcan Spring and had his team install the Alcan 5 leaf pack, HD Shackles, and HD wet bolts. This took about 2.5 hrs for his team to install. Based on my experience at Alcan, I would not have any reservations what so ever about having Lew’s team do an axle swap along with the 5 leaf pack. Lew’s guys did a great job on the install and I am very happy with my new running gear. I highly recommend traveling with a torque wrench if you have this work done. You will need to torque your new leaf pack Ubolts and wheel lug nuts if you opt for the upgraded 5200# never lube axles. Lew will provide you with the mileage interval and torque specs for the Ubolts. PM me if you have questions.

Just an FYI. We purchased hull #49 about a year ago and have constant issues with water in our dinette window. I did everything possible that the forum suggested to no avail. After more investigation I took a little pick and ran on the inside of the window tracks and the pick kept grabbing on something. Turns out the drains were stamped but not completely out. After some luck I was able to get all 4 drains clear. Not sure if this was an issue with earlier models or if we just got lucky! 😂 We have not had an issue since, knock on wood. Oops that's fiberglass.

We received the replacement rubber from Pelland quickly and they sent an extra foot+ in length. Installed it last week, starting from the bottom, pushing hard to compress as much stock as possible. I used an automotive hose cutter tool. Cut it 1/4" longer at end and pushed in the extra length, so that when it shrinks, we should be good. The black does look so much better, as it is recessed, and the white frame is still prominent. Thanks all for your help! 🙂