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There's definitely a lot of cool places to see enroute from NM to the White Mtns of AZ! We had a blast traveling with @Geronimo John and meeting @jd1923 and his lovely wife and wonderful chef, Chris, and their puppy, Charlie! Above -- a couple Olivers, and a couple knucklehead huskies at the Very Large Array west of Socorro, NM at 6,800' Above: Close-up of one of the 27 VLA radio telescopes (90-foot diameter) that look deep into the Milkyway in the radio frequency spectrum. Definitely worth the time spent to visit this place. Above: Looking for @jd1923.... Above: AH! They can run, but they can't hide from us! Typical afternoon monsoon weather in the White Mtns... Above: Beautiful campground in the Whites... Lots of elk and turkey: A couple knuckleheads trying to figure out what to do with those big 4-legged friends... Above shows a nice flock of Rio Grande Turkeys at about 8,750' enroute to our campsite... Above -- Hannigan Meadow Lodge on AZ Hwy 191 at 9k' -- absolutely fantastic! All in all -- it was a wonderful 5-day, 635-ish mile run from Placitas, NM... Thanks, @jd1923 and @Geronimo John! Plan this one for 2026! Best, A & D (...and the boys - WOOF!) (PS: A couple Olivers preparing for dinner and adult bevs -- note @Geronimo John's ice maker on the table!)

I added 2 vents, one in the bath above the mirror in to the closet and one at the base of the closet out to main room. I went up near the ceiling for the vent because I wanted the warmest air to be vented and to avoid water from shower entering vent to closet. I did this because back when I added heat runs to the street side and tested various spots in Oliver for temperatures during 10 and 12 below zero out side temps I found that the closet was the only place that came close to freezing. So now the bath no longer pressurizes when the furnace is running and the warm air is forced into the closet and then out the bottom vent and into the living space. Also takes care of the problem of when running the ceiling fan having to open bathroom window.

I added a top and bottom vent for the closet, but it's hard to know or measure how much airflow has improved. But you can be certain that it has improved over having no vent at all. At the same time I added a vent in the bathroom that allows the pressure from the heater duct to flow out under the dinette seat, then through the basement back to the furnace intake. This was a significant improvement for bathroom heat. You can feel air flow through the new vent, and it actually holds a tissue in place from the back pressure. FYI, I used a hole saw and taped the surface to prevent chip out. It worked great! Cheers! Geoff

Because of so many recommendations, yesterday I bought a 25 foot marine and RV Gorilla hose from Home Depot. Like John, we do a lot of boondocking and often fill our tank from our Scepter Military water cans. I was unaware that they "...do not work for filling the fresh tank via the boondocking port..." This will not present a problem for us as I have a dedicated set-up for that purpose but I mention it here for the benefit of others that might not have known. On Home Depot's website, this is a buy one, get 20% off on the second one until 07-27-2025. I believe I'll get another for a dedicated black flush hose. They are so light and compact they'll take up only about 10% of the room as the old hoses presently do.

Me too. Copied some who posted here. I purchased one 4” vent (over closet door) like others had, then went with 3” vents on the rest. I like how the upper closet vent lights up the entrance when the closet light is on. Make sure your drill is on a clutch setting!

The diameter of the hoses are different; gray is 5/8”, blue 1/2”. I have two dedicated gray hoses, one for freshwater hookups, the other for black tank rinse; and a blue hose for general washing and cleaning. The black tank rinse hose lives in the rear bumper compartment with the other dump equipment, the other two in the basement.

We are full timers and use ours a lot these past 5 + years. 3 replacements of the "blues", because of leaks, had me looking for something else. No arguments here, just wanted a better fit for us. Just my opinion and do really like the easy way both the gray and blue wrap and store in our front basket :)

Just beware that the 20% discount applies for on line orders only. I was informed by an HD associate that if you are in the actual store and naturally want the 20% discount, order and pay for it on your phone. Then go to customer service with the product in hand, then show your on line receipt and you’re good to go. I learned this lesson today. 🤷‍♂️

Towing a trailer safely—especially one over 3,000 lbs—requires more than just hitching it up and driving off. One of the most critical components in trailer safety is the brake controller, which synchronizes the trailer’s electric brakes with your tow vehicle. 1. What is a Trailer Brake Controller? A brake controller is an electronic device installed in the tow vehicle's cabin that sends a signal to the trailer’s electric or electric-over-hydraulic brakes. This allows the trailer to brake in proportion to the tow vehicle, improving stability, stopping distance, and overall safety. There are two main types: Time-Delayed Controllers: Apply a preset amount of braking power after a delay when the vehicle brakes are applied. Proportional (Inertia-Based) Controllers: Use a motion sensor to apply the same amount of braking force as the tow vehicle in real time. For smoother, safer towing—especially on varied terrain—a proportional controller is highly recommended. 2. Proper Setup of Trailer Brakes Brake Gain Adjustment "Gain" is how much braking power the controller sends to the trailer. Start with a gain setting of about 5.0 (mid-range). Perform a slow-speed test (around 20 mph) in a safe area: Manually activate the trailer brakes using the controller lever. The trailer should slow the vehicle slightly without locking up its wheels. Increase gain if the trailer doesn’t brake enough; decrease if it jerks or skids. TIP: Re-adjust gain if your trailer load changes significantly (e.g., adding water or cargo) 3. Safety & Maintenance Tips Brake Sync Check: Ensure braking feels smooth and proportional. If it’s jerky or the trailer pushes/pulls, adjust the gain or inspect brake components. Manual Override Lever: Know its location—it can be used independently in emergencies (e.g., trailer sway). Inspect Brake Pads/Shoes: Just like your vehicle, trailer brakes wear and need regular checks. Pre-Trip Check: Ensure the brake controller is powered, brakes engage, and lights/signals work. Breakaway Cable & Battery: Confirm the cable is securely attached to the tow vehicle (not the hitch). Make sure the camper’s battery is charged so the breakaway system works in an emergency. Tip: 2026 models include a dedicated breakaway battery pack—test it before each trip to ensure it's functional. 4. Final Reminders for Safe Towing Always stay within your vehicle's towing capacity (check owner's manual). Distribute weight evenly in the trailer, with 10–15% on the hitch. Use a weight-distribution hitch as needed. Drive cautiously—slow, wide turns and extended stopping distances are critical. Tow Smart. Tow Safe.

Mine almost never go down the tubes. One side occasionally, the other not at all. I’ve run string trimmer line up from the bottom, but that doesn’t seem to do anything. I haven’t popped the cover, yet

I added 4 vents, including two (top and bottom) in the closet. See my post from January 31, 2023 above in this thread.

Yes, I switched to the Zero-G (was on a prominent display at Camping World) after I got tired of the Camco white hoses. I’ve found those can’t take being hooked up to even regulated (30-35psi) water for extended periods. They swell and don’t inspire much confidence. They also kink pretty easily. I’ve never seen a grey Zero-G hose. I was just attracted to the light weight, smaller coiled size, and - so far - no leaks. Front basket? While you drive? I’ve never left anything in there while moving except between the registration booth and our camp site, and then the dump station. My cords and hoses get tucked in the “basement”. I’m eyeing the SeaBiscuit cover, but hesitating due to the $$$. Dunno what they bill the difference between the blue and the grey as being. Perhaps I got a later one that doesn’t have the issues you experienced. ’Course, now I’ve jinxed myself and I suppose the damn thing will explode on me tomorrow…

We use a 35 ft rigid hose to get from our truck bed to the Boondocking inlet! (when hitched) Here I used only the 25’ hose since I had backed closer. Not carrying those little water jugs! We fill about 18 gallons at a time, every 3-5 days, half our 35-gal storage tank. Filled up this morning while breaking camp (in the rain) and dropped some gray which is allowed in our remote NF location. Ready for our next camp!

Soak up all the cool you can Jd! Looks like a really fun time! 👍🏻😊🇺🇸

Thought I would check back in after our first towing/camping trip with the new Powerboost F150 for those of you who might be interested or new comers considering this truck for a tow vehicle. I'll cut to the chase and state thus far I have been astonished not only by the trucks capability but also the gas mileage both in tow mode as well as untethered. On our trip down to Yellowstone this past week we averaged just a tad over 13 mpg, all uphill or nearly so. The return trip we were hitting at 18.5 mpg mostly downhill other than 4 formidable hills north of West Yellowstone, but speed limits through the canyon are mostly 55 mph with occasional periods of 60 mph and I kept the truck at the speed limit. Driving untethered in the park we were obtaining as much as 42 mpg from the Canyon area back to West Yellowstone and on a second trip to the Canyon area 36 mpg but we encountered quite a bit of headwinds on the second excursion. Granted speed limits in the park are only 45-35 mph which helps, but still incredible for a half ton truck loaded with bikes, cameras, Yeti ice chest, various other gear etc. In Eco Mode while driving around town back home I am seeing around 24 mpg on short trips. While racking up some miles before towing (1000 minimum suggested) the truck averaged 28 mpg in Eco Mode traveling from Bozeman to Ennis down the Madison River Valley over to Quake and Hebgen Lake then down the canyon past Big Sky. All in with just over 1700 miles, towing, in town and highway just a sliver less than 21 mpg for system not broken in yet. That's the good news, now the not so good news depending on one's disposition. These new vehicles are very complex and technical beast and while I am fortunate enough to be technically inclined there are a lot of folks who are not. For those people vehicles such as this can be very overwhelming and intimidating. Many of the features can mostly or partly be ignored, but a lot of them cannot which could be a very frustrating experience for some people. The adaptive cruise control is awesome but thus far have not appreciated the lane assist nearly as much. Our 2017 Subaru is much better at this task than the F150. I simply don't trust it on winding, curvy mountain roads and turn it off. The free trial of Blue Cruise has been somewhat of a mixed bag, and like the lane assist seems to struggle with tight curves but is fine on wide sweeping curves and straight interstate highways. Given the cost of this feature it's unlikely I will pay for it beyond the initial 90 trial period. It's my understanding GMC has produced a much better version of this feature than Ford. When it works, it's great but I would be lying if I didn't say it feels downright weird at times hands free driving. The tires (Hankook AT) Ford installs on these ridiculously expensive trucks suck, period. They are round and roll down the road but thats about it. The reviews of this tire concur. Ford, what were you thinking? Enough for now thanks for all the input and info leading to this. Rob

Drove us crazy, June in Wyoming and Colorado with temps in the 90s! We had to pay for electric to run the noisy Dometic A/C! It's 60F here today, 10AM at 8910 FT. Was a low of 48F at dawn and a forecasted high of only 64F today, got to 73F yesterday. It breaks all stereotypes of Arizona weather! Love it, love wearing wool socks, shirts and hats!

It looks like cooler temps there with the way everyone is dressed. That’s camping weather!

Don't forget Hawaii! 😂

That is a fine looking group of Oliver campers! Is this the start of a NM/AZ rally?

God’s country with great people and taking time to enjoy! Chris calls this camp “Our Place!” We hiked today and found 2-3 backup campsites down our small FS road, with great views along the way!

Fine looking Group! Looks like a great place to be camping, too! Hope everyone has a fine time!!!!

If it wasn’t for my bad directions, mountain rains, wet dirt roads and no cell reception at 8900+ ft in the Arizona White Mountains, we would have had three Ollies together! The next day, we spent the day together at our camp. Picture by Art with Diane, then John & Chris and John pictured. @MAX Burner, @jd1923 and @Geronimo John all in one place… Priceless!

Ditto on the Zero G for us. Get the dark gray hose, not the blue ... we went through several blue ones because of leaks and finally tried the dark gray, the end fittings are much easier to screw onto a faucet. I'm not sure they still make the blue hoses but if you find one, do yourself a favor and don't buy it. We are very happy with Zero G. Best of luck, John

Here is a link to the Gorilla hose - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-1-2-in-x-25-ft-Marine-and-RV-Hose-GMAR0025/325990305

I’ve been using the zero g hose for several years as well with no issues. Because they aren’t a flat shrinking type hose it fills the fresh tank quickly. I have four 25 foot hoses and typically only use one 25 foot hose but have used all four at times.

A number of us have purchased these hoses, and there have been no reports of issues using to fill fresh tank or for city water. Use the search and type the word: Hoses

Delete the Optifuse asap (China cr@p) and replace it with a 300A ANL fuse. On a recent post by @John Dorrer I listed Amazon links for the parts required. I have an ANL fuse in line with our Victron inverter and can run the A/C and microwave simultaneously! Not that you’d want to, but it does so without blowing the fuse! You don’t want a breaker for this connection and OTT knows this (finally), now that they’re not using the Optifuse anymore. That’s what Jason should have told you.