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Staying in the Valley of the Gods tonight. Unlike Monument Valley you are free to camp at any pullout or road spur. We were graced with a freshly graded road and parked the trailer about 5 miles in, just outside of the canyon on the east side of the 17 mile loop. We explored farther up the road. We could have made the loop but decided the sharp dips and rougher road was more than we wanted Ollie to endure. a few images:

Look up Moki Dugway.It's a road in UT.. the most amazing road I have driven. It climbs 1,300 feet in 3 miles, hanging off a rock face overlooking Valley of the Gods. Valley of the Gods is spectacular but an afternoon drive to the top of Moki Dugway will make a little vertigo set in. and see if you can find Ollie in the below image..

Well, I cannot believe it took me this long to find the issue with my intermittent brakes after Oliver failed to put on new axles for me last year. Since then I've been dealing with my RAM disabling the brakes periodically. No rhyme or reason... (known to me). At least three or four of you folks here would have found this sooner than me, I'm sure of it. As suggested by some, I verified all ground wires going inside the trailer from the brake bundle on the drivers side (only for snugness). I have even replaced all brake bundle connectors, some I did twice just to be sure (today). But the good thing is I learned a great deal, and I found a ton of wire connector corrosion along the way. Even the 7-pin connector (now replaced) was not looking good. But what I DID NOT check was the actual copper wire condition going INTO the negative/ground bus-bar inside the trailer. Well, after checking, re-checking, re-checking again all brake connectors today, and verified voltage to all brakes, I think I found what someone at Oliver had done. See, when they initially removed my axles from #110 last year, in hopes that the new axles would fit my frame (that's another thread), they slapped my old axles back on, and hence re-ran the wires back into the trailer (creating the new issue). Sure I checked for snug negative screws, but I never actually pulled out the wire from the bus-bar. Look what I found today. After fixing this "mess", and ensuring the sheathing was not inside the bus bar, my third test drive for the day was a success, but who knows, I've driven four hours in the past, before my truck was bitching about low voltage for the brakes. This had to be the issue, I hope. I was also able to snug up the main nut to the chassis ground, although I know that was not the primary issue. Sigh!

Never had an issue with a single BattleBorn 100AH in our LE2 since 2021. Believe our battery use would be considered low stress. Just purchased two new 100AH BB during Black Friday sales event because of our past experience with BB before this video came out. I have been careful securing the battery and all connections are tight. Will start monitoring Battery Temperature with our Victron shunt. .

John, Samsung has SmartTag which is an Android version of an Air Tag.. I'm not sure if they only work with a Samsung phone. I have 4, one of which I have hidden in my Oliver.

Pelland Enterprises H109-376. Cut, leaving an extra 1-1/2" and trim at the end as necessary.

Chris, you may want to do what I did to #113, now that our hulls are 10 years old! And your grounds look more corroded, seeing the color of the copper. I removed each and every one, trimmed the wires back 1/2” and stripped them for clean fresh copper, retighten good!

On all my trailers I cut the ground wire and bolt it to the frame not far from the hitch. Makes it easy to test and repair when brake and/or lights issues arise.

We installed two BB 100ah batteries in January, 2021. Later that year I added a third battery when they went on sale. I’ve had no issues. Terminals are tight, no wobble like what Will is testing in the video. It’s within about a month of when I got my Ram 2500 and it now shows about 58,000 towing miles. Mike

I am impressed that Pat Radack took the time to search the archives and then posted. Well done Sir! And welcome to the family. Maybe not Craig's list, but I am aware of two OTT's that were destroyed and totaled. They went somewhere and likely were parted out. But your point is well taken. When I'm worried about where I've parked our Ollie, I remove the fuse to the front jack after I have lowered the tongue all the way down. Then I put a locking collar on the hitch, and pull the safety chaines up to the front box and padlock them there. Possible Future Enhancements: But I'm thinking of a couple of hidden game cameras and several of the anti-theft tracker disks. Maybe post a sign that there are 8 of them in/on the trailer even if there is only two. But I would like to learn about the trackers with battery back-up. Maybe a motion sensor that would put 50,000 volts to the hitch to take out the theft tow vehicle electrical system. Oh, June says that would also take out our Ollie electrical. Ok maybe a mortar from the propane tank to disable their TV? Ok maybe this is overkill. Besides the above suggested Claymore mine would be more effective. I guess the WiFi trackers is the way to go. But that's another thread already! I bet Pat could track it down and revive it. Surely there have been technical updates over the years.

Check out this link. Basically, you need to find the AirTag and then remove the battery. I don’t think it can be disabled unless you find the AirTag

Here is an interesting video which gives a pretty straight forward way to disable the speaker on an Apple Air Tag. Removal of the speaker eliminates the continuous audible chirp after 72 hrs. Removal of the speaker will not allow a bad actor to hear the chirp, then find and disable the AT by removing the battery after he/she locates it. For example an AT hidden in a car under the seat or in the trunk. Or in a piece expensive camping equipment say a portable generator or even an Oliver TT. The bad actor will eventually figure out there is an AT on the stolen item tracking them if they have an iPhone. Without the speaker chirping it will be more just a bit a lot more difficult to find. A common misconception - the map location is not the location of the air tag, it’s the map location for your truck or campers air tag that would have been the location of the persons phone who parked or walked or drove by close enough for their phone to hear the air tags broadcast. Patriot🇺🇸

All things being equal, on the battery closest to the load. Though all things are never equal!

We have androids and wish they had a version of Air Tags,😭

Here to date, there has not been any reason to connect the free port on the 712 system. I even have the temperature probe in my spare parts onboard. Looks like the Victron folks did us a favor. GJ

@John Dorrer. The RV-Safe alarm we ordered actually comes with a Wago or Wago-look-alike connector! ☺️

If you are considering getting a battery operated impact to carry on your travels ? These tools are expensive 🤔 but there are usually promotions and sales that you can wait for that offer steep discounts and even then they are expensive After considering one for a long time this thread kicked me over the fence and i snagged a Milwaukee 1/2” drive M18 model #2962-20 during a recent sale $189 with a 5 amp battery and a charger #2962-20 😳 $489.00 is the regular price Next I need to snag a heavy duty plug kit…….and TPMS for the Oliver You can search for sales on Search this page

Monument Vally We are camped in the only open campground in Mounment Valley and there are only two other rigs tonight. We are lucking out with amazing weather and empty parks. Tonight's sunset. I generally avoid shooting classic images that have been shot by 10,000 phtotogrphers that are better than me. These are so classic, I wanted the images.,.. enjoy

In my eyes, John Davies was a pioneer in DIY efforts. I have often referred back to his wisdome and approach when doing my own. Sadly I have neither the tools, equipment or skills as this great craftsman. But I sure can gain insights on how to do things in our trailers from his efforts. Geronimo John John Davies Posts Index (April 2023 Version).docx

Yes... I have used SAE "2-flat" rubberized connectors for 12v dc devices that I might want to disable/remove easily for service, access, replacement, etc. Pay particular attention to the polarity as shown above... so that the "live" end connected to the trailer wiring harness has its positive "+" terminal covered in rubber (and the bare "-" terminal is exposed). I also use the small 2-pin SAE rubber covers to protect the trailer side of such connections when the 12v device has been unplugged. The rubber cover hangs on the wire right behind the trailer-side connector, ready to cover up the live female side of the connector. Also pay attention to the current rating of these connectors. This particular one is a Hopkins 47965, has 16 gauge wire nominally rated at 10A. Many such 2-flat SAE connectors are also rated at 10A max. Looking online a bit harder you can find 2-flat SAE connectors with 12 gauge wire if needed, Just as when you pull the fuse to silence a safety device such as this, be careful to flag the device as disconnected (e.g. hang some surveyer's "tell-tale" tape so it is visible sticking out from under the dinette seat cover) and take positive steps to restore the device to service as soon as possible.

Here is a response from an electrical engineer on Will's second video, the response video on BB's legal letter.

The auto-switching function is most likely just broken, but the inability to even manually switch between tanks could have been frozen. Your regulator may not have worked properly even when it was new. With our hull #1291, I have had to manually switch between tanks since we bought it new in Hohenwald. That prompted me to invest in Mopeka tank sensors, which are on a Cyber Monday sale right now. Buy two, one for each tank. https://www.amazon.com/Mopeka-Check-Sensor-Steel-Tanks/dp/B09J6MXJKT/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.7Exyy9znT-SQGS49BGKyHY8ska73Uv8UcW7kjFcD5amLXllefHdvZI9wor2zVTUu_HhYmQxB3bapRHQuaIsBOy6fqVjO7n3zsjQ9skHvk2LQmqIbgav0y31tXmkHXPjxRMvJD0WQLLb5H2SPD6tEMIXdiP5KAe6190HRcuSaGgLPY_82w62plWFkRqUzSt9C2P2BuIibPH-53VmHFVohGOm0i5u8ejoXxzjTHAFhKYA1KJi-YdzdikEnsHz5-nSqBoTB8mn2Lc_RZEoDJ-xbdZgGxet5-WJzelCBJJCRgn0.2nf7_EzuuwFWa_vGhzCEyPMqhD9F4i7-2d7c70IgJu0&dib_tag=se&hvadid=678467137404&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9029558&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=39930829735022087--&hvqmt=b&hvrand=39930829735022087&hvtargid=kwd-2239628814146&hydadcr=7696_13589679&keywords=mopeka%2B2%2Bpack&mcid=2a3b25f10644368bbbb60cf5e4c564c8&qid=1764610880&sr=8-6&th=1 I monitor propane levels with the app on my phone, then manually switch when one tank gets low. I am interested to know if you are able to manually switch the regulator between tanks once it thaws out.

To All, Mine were abraded somewhere within the axle tube in the middle between the hubs. There was about 12' of wire stuffed in the axle between the hubs. Mike T. & I were in discussion, as we both had this issue at overlapping times. I believe I was just further in the process when we discussed. I will include pics (of both dbl. insulated wires) of where abrading exposed to the bare copper within the two insulations. I did not remember to label front & rear. It was explained to me that the during the forming of the axle tubes (and this may vary depending upon manufacturer) the inside of some may get a robotic welding, as well as the outside. the outside of course is smoothed off and painted. The inside, depending on the process may get a smoothing, however most of them are left with weld spatter inside so the axle tube on the inside resembles a concave wood rasp... just what we do NOT want to house our brake wires. Mine actually look like they were somehow pinched, or maybe during the shorting out process heated up enough to melt(?) the insulation near the abrasions. So I went straight to a previously read article by Prof. JED, Emeritus, which dealt with replacing the brake wiring. I ran my newly purchased (NAPA Shielded Brake Cable) wires outside the Axle Tubes, putting them thru a loom at about 9 o'clock (to the rear) to protect from rocks or other strikes. Using butt-splice connectors from the Shielded Brake Cable wires to the leads going into the brakes, then buttered the connectors up with adhesive-sealant to further protect connectors from moisture. I have some ZIP TIES (I've been told, like the ones 'LE' uses on your wrists...) which are 1/2" wide and abt 1/8" thick, and used those secure the loom to the axles. At least that was my approach at the time, as I wanted to get back to camping. The Brakes have worked as they should. B~Out

These Air Tags are really cool, though I hope to never have to track down stolen property! I drove yesterday to fill the Oliver LP tanks plus two tanks we have on our deck for the grill and fire ring. So, I was at the Ford dealer on Sandretto Drive, waiting on the tanks being filled (see pic). Two tags for my keys and truck were at this address. The Oliver is shown parked at home and our GX was at an address on Lee Blvd. When I got home, Chris was already home and I mentioned, "So, you went to Trader Joe's?" She asked, "How did you know?" I replied, I tracked you!" Chris has a Samsung phone, so she did not get a tracking notification.

Received the Air Tags and removed all four speakers. It’s not difficult to do and all four are mute now.

No worries. I figured it out. I had a gas stop device on the tank and I may not have primed it correctly after turning the gas back on. It was dark. One thing that might be useful would be a light over the tank area. Tonight I removed that gas stop and hooked up the gas line directly. The Truma heater started up with no problem. So much to learn! John, 1290

The intermittent brake disconnect issue drove me crazy for a couple of years. I had my Ram checked and rechecked, I rewired the 7 pin connector, and had a couple of different technicians go over the trailer. Finally pulled the brake wires out of the axle and there it was, bare wires from bouncing around inside the axles for 100k miles. Frustration!