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Please read my detailed report that I sent in on this topic attached....I've had truma's replace 3 times. First potential cause - Truma didn't properly tighten the brass fittings internally that feed the burner assembly. Second potential cause - Truma didn't crimp the burner tube assembly correctly, and with travel they rattle out (the burner tubes are like in a bar-b-q and can fall off which causes raw gas to be injected into the burner area for explosive ignition instead of gentle start.) This blog post has 3 goals and was SENT to NHTSA for evidence of why Truma needs to do something to fix their defective mfg process. 1) List symptoms we experienced with our Truma and use photos to illustrate the 3 firebox events. 2) Describe 2 different Truma reported manufacturing defects and show photos illustrating those issues. 3) Describe the in field solutions for each of the 2 manufacturing issues. 4) Show a pictures of the current Truma Burner Unit with all Manufacturing updates in place. The attached PDF is in full detail with picture of what is likely the issue or issues causing explosive ignition. Truma Issues.pdf Hope that helps...remember...you need to report this to both Oliver and Truma in order to get any warranty coverage. Craig Short

Got this working yesterday, using the screws supplied with the light on top and hardware I had in the shop to attach the bottoms. It looked hodgepodge today. I really should fab a proper bracket, but for now I just wanted to fix its appearance. Went to the local HW store and got four short 4mm countersink screws and two Nylok nuts and washers. I had to countersink the brackets further to get the screws flush. The assembly is much better, but now that the light is taller, I noticed two things. The base bracket looks cheap now that you can fully see it. And the height is right at the belly line where the hulls meet, so visually it's not good. It looked better shorter, but now the light is where you need it. If I was to do this again, first I would use the great idea @Steph and Dud B made above; to grab power and use the light switch on the jack. Second I would fab a proper bracket a bit shorter than this one and push it forward a couple inches to get the required angle. Then it's not up against the hull belly line and will look better. It's too late for me re the first idea, but I'll do the latter when I source the right stainless steel stock. Looks like one of those Star Wars robots! It's all the light we'll need to hitch-up and load or unload the truck in the dark when necessary. We now have proper exterior lighting on all four sides! 😎

It you look in the closet, there is a horizontal section of vent pipe about three feet long. If the trailer was parked with the nose up, that section of horizontal pipe would fill with water if the vent cap was off, or water was sprayed up under the cap. That's the only reasonable scenario that would cause blockage of the vent and result in slow drainage. Seems like dropping the nose back down would drain that standing water better than going on the roof with a vacuum. 😁 Us retired folks got to be carful on ladders! Cheers! Geoff

Our original Furrion DV1200 failed a few years ago, I found an old stock Furrion DV1100 that was the same size and plug/play unit that only lasted a few more years. Our Original Furrion unit was much larger than Snackchaser's original Furrion unit. Like JD indicated the old Furrion cutout is large enough for an addition cabinet. Decided to use a iRV62 stereo/DVD/CD player from Amazon like Snackchaser. Cut out a large 11"X7"X1/8" black plastic sheet from Amazon to cover the old Furrion cutout. Also cut out a 11"X7"X1/16" aluminum 6061 sheet from Amazon to add strength to the plastic mounting plate. Sandwiched the aluminum sheet between the plastic sheet and fiberglass hull with the iRV62 bolted directly through the plastic sheet & aluminum sheets. Furrion unit: iRV62 with plastic & aluminum sheets: iRV unit with backing plate on right next to old Furrion unit: iRV62 installed today: Plan to wire & test on Monday.

@dkeen, you're correct about using the tester. With the black probe on the ground bus, check for voltage with red probe on both sides of the fuse - with the fuse in place. There should be power on both sides of fuse. But that is probably not the problem if you already confirmed continuity through the fuse. If the fuse LED does not light with the switch on, it means that there is an open somewhere in the pump circuit. Probably a spade off one of the switches, or bad connection somewhere. Here are some easy checks: There should be a wire connected at the back of the panel directly behind the pump fuse. Count fuses from the top down to the pump fuse, and count same number of spade terminals from top down in the back — that will be the pump circuit and the easiest connection to check first. Just verify that the wire hasn’t pulled off the spade. Look at the pump wire connections next, pull on the wires to make sure they are properly spliced together. Least probable- You can slip your test probe into the pump butt-splices and check for volts to ground. Check all the pump wires with switch in both positions. !2 volts on any of these wires means you're getting voltage to the pump. If you have voltage, then the pressure switch is suspect. It should be normally closed. If it failed in the open position, then the pump and fuse indicator won’t work. If you haven’t found it at this point, then it gets more complicated and probably beyond typical DIY skills. The switches are 3-way, wired with the power going to one switch and the switch leg going to the other, with travelers in-between. The bath switch requires removal of the shelf which is a project on its own. This is further complicated by an in-line relay that handles full pump current so that the switches don’t have to. Sounds like your going to Oliver anyway, so its probably best to have them fix it. Even a seasoned RV repair guy would spend a good amount of time finding the problem. Good luck, Geoff

Our old Furrion jumbo heads sure are ugly! Your new iRV62 looks sooooo much better, even with the large faceplate which has a clean look! Excellent work cutting out the plastic sheet plus the aluminum sheet for added strength. The wiring should be the easy part. You're 90% there! 😎

Looks like the burner has fallen apart. I thought that was an ongoing recall for this unfortunately all to common issue. I believe Truma says in this case not to use the water heater. Hopefully someone who has a Truma and has gone through the recall process can help.

@rideandfly Nice work! That's some clever engineering!

The Oliver Porch Lights are bright for a dark campsite, so we rarely use them. But if you need to light up the area they work great. I've often wondered, why isn't there lighting on the front and rear of the Oliver? I asked a year ago about replacement lights for our OEM Porch Lights and just purchased some recently. OTT should install these lights in all four directions. I would have done one up front too, but running wire would be difficult. I got something else for up front, more on that later. https://itcshopnow.com/products/assurance-exterior-flood-light?variant=50392962007319 I carefully measured the four Porch Lights OTT installed, as the distance from hull belly line, which btw holds a tape measure nicely, up to centerline of the Porch Light at the mounting screws. Turns out they were all installed at different heights +/- 3/4". As a special bonus, this light is 1/4" off from front to the rear mounting screws. My new Rear Porch Light, I promise is the straightest of the bunch! 🤣 It's not easy to choose the best spot to drill into the exterior of your hull, this one especially. I cut away some of the white insulation in the back of the attic. I used a 2-ft piece of metal fish-tape with the ends curled back, running it down the inside of the back exterior hull. Repeatedly, it measured 12" form the bottom of the OLIVER taillight to where the fish-tape hit the top of the rear window frame. It measured 12" so I figured I should go 10" max. Looking from the outside, there is a flat fiberglass frame around the rear window. Above that, the top rear is convex. I had to find the best spot so that the approx. 8" x 1 1/2" light would sit flat in both directions. If not water would get behind it. I drilled a 1/4" hole centered to the window, so the light is just above the flat frame area of the rear window. I soldered and heat shrink extra length of wire to the light. If they only attached 18" of wire! Offset the splices so that they would fit nicely into the drilled hole. It wasn't an easy pull but a few ins and outs and the light pulled flush (would be easier with 2 people, one in one out). I eyeballed the light level to the window frame. I wanted to VHB the light housing vs. drilling two mounting holes but the design of the light would not allow for it. They do not include hardware. Found the stoutest 1" course thread screws that would fit the openings and I drilled 6/94" holes after marking the centers. Wiring? I wanted to add the new rear light to the Side Porch Lights (streetside). However, I could not find the switch leg in the back corner of the attic and I did not want to remove all the stuff out of the kitchen cabinets. But that would be the right way to do it. Cabinets empty, you can easily run wiring up to the main switch panel. Our hull had a rear camera and a separate switch to power it. I removed the camera a year ago, so I'm using this separate switch with existing wiring. I copied something Geoff did, where he used a Sharpie to black out the word "Awning." Mine has a thin cut piece of black tape over the word "Camera" so it just reads "Rear" now! 🤣 I had to wait patiently for dusk and dark tonight! The hull looks great with the new Rear Porch Light to compliment the side lights. And finally, it alone lights up the yard! 😎

Thank you Galway Girl for input from your actual experience! Very helpful!

I had this happen and found that one of the spade connections at the pump had come loose. I crimped the spade connection for a tighter fit, reinstalled, all good. A few others have experienced this, as well; simple fix!

Thanks so much @Galway Girl. I appreciate the information. I have already submitted tickets and called Oliver. I will be on the phone with Truma first thing Monday morning. Bob

As an aside...while Truma is very clear that they only want their technicians doing any updates or changes...I believe Oliver did a bunch of installation of new burner units . Be sure to turn in a "ticket" to both Oliver and Truma. See my PM for some more suggestions. CS

I’m sorry that this is happening and during a weekend to boot. Open a service ticket and see if you can send that video. In any event you’ll have to find an authorized Truma service facility to replace your unit. Maybe get the unit replaced now and take a chance on getting reimbursed after the repair?

Yes👍

Ok, when using this method of sanitizing you should place the valves in the "normal" configuration. Concerning the water heater, was the water heater power switch (access from outside of the trailer on the water heater itself) in the 'on' position ( either up or down ). Of course don't try this when you're sanitizing ( water heater water inlet valve should be closed during sanitizing ).

IF you are worried about heat on your trip - you can use a Mr. Heater "Buddy" heater like THIS ONE. For over 20 years I've used one of these since they do not require electric and are reasonably good on propane usage. These heaters also come with CO and overall O2 sensors with automatic shutoff. Good luck and have fun on your trip! Bill p.s. These heaters are available at many WalMart's and Tractor Supply.

I apologize for not posting a resolution sooner. I changed the inverter circuit breaker for new. Hard to find. Home Depot website only. Charging issue resolved. My theory is a washboard road in and out of 11 Mile Reservoir State Park CO. Who knows?! Thank you for all your knowledge. Mark

6 or 7 consecutive for Wyoming. This will be number 21 for consecutive years in either Wyoming, Montana, Idaho or Colorado. Ya just don't know where the "stupid" fish are located! 😉 Bill

USFS Campground Columbine Creek , near Questa New Mexico and Red River. Bighorn sheep hangout along the highway nearby, cool visitor center in Questa New Mexico. Hiking trails in the campground to the Honda Wilderness Restored Catholic Church in Questa where is everyone else 🧐

Jason talks about registration fees in the video above. But for those that don't want to watch this video here is what he says: $100 per person from now to the end of June $150 per person from July 1st until close of "normal" registration - assume that this date will be announced later $200 per person from the close of "normal" registration for "late" registration Obviously, to save a bit of coin, registering before the end of June is less expensive. However, even though it appears as though the 2026 Rally will be well attended, the more of us that register "early" also greatly helps the folks at Oliver, helps the folks at the State Park and helps presenters and demonstrations with planning, ordering food, swag and venues for each of the activities. For those that might be worried about something happening that would prevent attendance after already paying your money, in the past up until a fairly late date prior to the Rally, Oliver has refunded most (if not all) of the Rally fees. Looking forward to seeing "old" friends and meeting a bunch of new folks too. Bill

Basically I did the same with THESE LIGHTS. Fairly often I camp where there are bears. Certainly I do not want to step out the door and come face to face with something a bunch stronger than I am.😵‍💫

Alternatively, I bought three solar motion lights for camp security and general outdoor lighting. Once camp is setup, they are staged forward facing on the propane tank housing, rearward facing on the spare tire cover, and usually on a picnic table or other strategic location. I instantly have light when and where I need it, and a deterrent to unwanted visitors!

The towel rack/soap dish on our 2015 LE2 was originally installed with silicone sealant. Don't know what year Ollie you have, later model LE2s towel rack/soap dish is installed with screws, but we had to remove sealant to get to the loose heat outlet hose and water pump LED where the shower hose is also located under the sink. We installed a U seal around the towel rack/soap dish and four screws when the towelrack/soap dish was reinstalled without using silicone sealant.

Thanks all for your tips!

I had the same problem after lengthening my hose to reach the toilet for better rinsing. This was done by sliding the hose return weight further down, but it also caused kinks. I used a spring from ACE hardware to prevent the kinks and haven't had a problem since. The spring was 1/2" x 10", not a perfect fit but just narrower that the width of the kink, That modification is described here: Cheers, Geoff

The hose is kinking under the sink when you pull it out. Be careful not to pull it out too far. It only just barely reaches our shower holder. I find it best to turn the faucet toward the shower holder before pulling the hose out.

OOPS! Mike also included a PDF with Norcold parts list in case anyone needs and/or wants it. See below - Bill PARTS LIST N412 for Norcold Fridge.pdf

IMG_3472.mov Almost hate to post this video, but I am in week 1 of a 4 week loop and just encountered a major issue with the truma. The video speaks for itself. Any thoughts?

I appreciate that. I have opened a ticket and sent a copy of the video to Mike Sharpe. I checked and there are a couple of Truma authorized service centers near where we are (Buffalo/Rochester area). Thanks for weighing in on a Saturday night. Bob

Oliver has told me repeatedly that my water heater was not part of the recall. I have had numerous issues but this one is the most serious.