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We actually tested this in Florida this past April. Outside temps were low 90s with 80%+ RH. With the Chill Cube in Dry Mode, the highest we saw inside was high 70s and 55ish% RH. So it didn’t quite get below 50% humidity, but it made a huge difference. At 77°F/55% RH it was comfortable enough to hang out in. In those conditions I’d say 55-60% RH is probably the realistic best-case without adding a separate dehumidifier. Bear in mind our Brinkley 5th wheel is not as “efficient” as an Oliver. We love the Chill Cube, the variable speed compressor is very efficient, we have seen similar numbers than @jd1923

The Obeaming model I installed doesn’t have a physical button, but rather a center touch feature for on/off, as well as dimming and color selection. Wiring in my instance was simple; black to black, white to white. The wires were crimped and taped in my installation. I was pleased to find the overhead cabinets had routed channels to better conceal the wiring. Although the rivet holes matched these new lights, I choose to use screws rather than rivets; a piece of wood skewer was snapped off in each hole as filler for screw securement. I also decided to replace all of the former touch lights to forego any further issues. I’ve throughly enjoyed these lights for the past year and very pleased with the added ambiance of the blue color. They also operate as Tom @Tom and Doreen describes with “memory” when using the master power switch.

Sometimes Mother Nature has a very kind way of saying "Good morning".

For those owners that want to follow this story, please do so at https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/2252240891847686/ I don't want to see this thread turn into "War and Peace" like the Alcan one did.

These windows on the 2026 models are the ones that only open 3" at the bottom. The 90 degree windows are only on the 2027 models and should not be affected as the design is completely different from the ones on the 2026 models.

2 ACs, a chill cube in the living area and diesel sounding 1910 style Furrion up front! But the 2027 Brinkley models Zs now include dual Furrion Chill Cubes. The new 15k low-profile up front, and the std 18k in the living room. Maybe, with the gas prices we might end up in Texas this year.

It will be of interest to eventually learn how the Chill Cube handles cabin humidity in very hot climates with high RH. A cabin temp of 76° can be comfortable only if interior humidity is kept below 50%. Perhaps some other ‘Chill Cuber’ can share their experiences regarding this matter. @jd1923, your test results are very impressive!

Yeah, I tried this today and you are correct. I hosed our blinds this week with a fine mist spray setting. I did this 2 years ago and it was about time again. When I reinstalled I found a couple of clips where the mounting screw needed tightening, so check for this first. Then of all the 24 clips, 6 per window, only one would not seat properly (guess we're lucky). I removed it, tried to stretch it wider on my vise and no-go on the spring steel. So this is my solution and it worked great, tight as can be! just one wrap of electrical tape. 😎

Was reinstalling our blinds today after cleaning them, so working inside the Oliver. Set temp was 76F and I lowered it to 68F and turned on the Turbo setting which activates the evaporator fan at the high setting. Outdoor temp was 94F, 110F on the roof, 104F in the basement under the streetside bed where the Victron MP2 is installed (see temp reading on picture). After I heard the compressor ramped up, I took this screen print. About 620W was the highest number I could see. The picture shows wattage inverter out and the A/C was the only 120VAC appliance on. The Chill Cube is rated at 18K BTU which we know is BS since the compressor rating is about half that. The Chill Cube night not be the best choice for those who plug in regularly and live where you need powerful cooling. The Tosot may a better choice for those who plugin at campgrounds, but we rarely plug in even when parked at home. The Chill cube in Turbo mode is not real quiet, but still less than half the noise of others. It's whisper quiet when sleeping at night when cooling needs are lower.

Thanks -- I did that. Glad to have this in the thread as a warning to others.

Be sure to unplug the 7 pin connector from the tow vehicle when testing the breakaway switch. When the pin in the breakaway switch is pulled 12v power from the trailer’s batteries can back feed into and cause damage to the trailer brake controller on the tow vehicle. Bill

Welp, after first talking to Anita in 2021 and putting maybe 30k miles on the microminnie we ended up with, we paid for an X23 build slot today. We live in SETX and have been scheming for an Oliver for a while now. Did the factory tour 2 years ago. We should be taking delivery during our annual trip to Tenn. to see family. Decided to skip thr solar awning -- spider sense tells me we'd break it somehow. We'll catch flack, but we'll be using our 3rd gen Tacoma as a TV for a good while. No plans for mountains, and when we do we'll get a full-size. We live in SETX, and it is _flat_ here.

During the hot weather this summer, our Norcold refrigerator was also struggling to keep cold while on propane. The fridge fan could not remove enough heat for it to work properly, so it was time to install more cooling fans! I ordered the $75 Beech Lane fans based on the positive reviews, but there was no way they would fit in my Norcold’s lower vent area as intended. They could fit in the upper vent with modified mounting brackets and reversed air flow, but why pay for something that didn’t fit as designed. In addition to fitment issues, I didn’t like the control box being mounted outside behind the vent cover where the blue LEDs can be seen glowing. I wanted the ability to turn the fans off, but the control box didn’t remember the last setting when the power is switched off, and I didn’t want to be opening the vent cover to reset it. These are multi speed fans with 3 wires so switching the fan wire wasn’t a good option either. I returned the Beech Lane fans and bought 2 similar (water resistant) fans and a Normally Open 500c (1220f) thermo switch for lots cheaper. I made a rectangular frame of 1/2” aluminum angle bar for the fans, and installed them in the upper vent. Because the upper vent has an angled back, I used long deck screws with short PEX pipe standoffs on the bottom screws to keep the fans mounted vertically. The Beech Lane fans would have to be mounted the same way if I had kept them. The fans are powered from a new switch in the master panel and it’s in series with the thermo switch so they will only work when the switch is on, and the temperature is above 1220. I used a laser thermometer on the condenser fins when the refrigerator was operating on propane. The temperatures were significantly higher on the right side above the flame chamber, and they got progressively cooler towards the left side. So I hung the temperature switch between the condenser fins just right of center. It can easily be moved left to cooler fins if the fans are running too often. I installed a terminal block as a centralized connection point for all the wires, but they could be spliced together in any manner of ways. “Y” spade adapters worked well to connect to the refrigerators existing dc power terminal via a 5 amp fuse. The fans use less than 1 amp combined. The microwave was removed (six screws) to get wires up to the new switch on the switch panel. The tension jack to hold the microwave in place has to be loosened too, it’s accessed through the round marine hatch behind the switches. Just takes a couple of minutes to take it out. We have been testing the fans in 100 degree weather for the past week, and they've been working great! I hope someone finds this useful! Cheers! Geoff

The ones on the 2027's are completely different and should not suffer this same fate.

Yes, by the photo from FB these hinges are 2026 the awning style windows with the 3” opening at the bottom.

Back to the drawing board on awning windows.🤔 The key question is are these the new 90 degree opening awning windows Oliver has since began installing, or the previous model awning windows that only opened 3” at the bottom?

I remember when we still had the DPll, cabin humidity reaching 80-90% some nights with the a/c running on low; contributed by the a/c, as well as our respiration. The dehumidifier we had at the time could not compensate for the excessive moisture. As you know the Atmos is much quieter and efficient in cooling, but it also handles excessive moisture much better with dedicated modes. And then with the Cielo Breez Max thermostat addition, humidity spikes are a thing of the past.

Excellent point Ron. A person can almost be comfortable when 90F in the shade in Phoenix, where 80F in Houston might feel hotter! As you know, that's a test I cannot do out here. Note the Ruuvi screen print above. On the roof of our Oliver, at 104F the RH was only 17%. Trunk temp was 91F at 27% RH and inside the cabin 76F was very comfortable at 38% RH. Rich added comment on his experience with the Chill Cube in Florida. We lived in WPB Florida for three years. When we ran our home A/C 24x7x365 and RH would be in the high 40s. Of course outside it was 60-80% RH. Taylor Guitars states 47% RH is perfect for fine acoustic guitars (good for humans too). In Florida with A/C running, I could leave the guitars hanging on wall hooks. In Prescott, I converted a hutch into a cabinet to store 4 guitars. I keep sponges in trays of water wicking moisture to keep RH in the high 40s! In the dry season (spring-early summer) we run 3-4 large capacity humidifiers in our home. We all know the Oliver can get humid/wet inside. That works out perfectly in the dry SW. It's often 20% RH outside but 40% RH inside. Highest ever I've seen winter camping is 58% RH in the Oliver Cabin. Then open up windows on a sunny afternoon and the extra moisture will evaporate. We don't worry if an RV A/C adds to cabin humidity like most do. 😎

I remember reading in the "Morton's on the move" blog that BTU output was about half it's actual rating but didn't think that would be a problem since my old 9.2k Coleman worked just fine at cooling in our Ollie, and it worked better than others I've used at controlling humidity due to longer run times. I bet you'll get better performance when traveling at lower altitudes. Bottom line, none of these units are perfect, but if you need A/C off-grid inverter compressor units are really your only choice and the Chill Cube seems to be a great one. Only question is durability, which is the same question I have for my Turbro.

That was just a model number listing error. Here is some advice from a Shurflo tech for setting charging pressure, from a thread titled: "Are two accumulators better than one?"

... and that brought a huge smile to my face. I can't wait to get back to fishing! I hope you had a good day, with lots of fish and no grizzly action.

Performance update => I was able to run the Chill Cube 24x7, thermostat set at 74F, for 4 days producing this data. Data was recorded each day later afternoon 5PM +/-. The Chill cube did not quite produce the set temp in the heat of the day but did so the rest of the day. The high of 76F was still quite comfortable in the cabin. Off course our Oliver was unplugged, but in addition to battery power, our 320W rooftop solar was adding power consumed by the A/C. The table shows Ah used daily. Keep in mind this is with the A/C running 24x7 which is rarely our use case! Having 900 Ah it appears I can count on running the A/C 24x7 for 3 days, 4-5 days if it’s off during portions of the days. With 600 Ah you could truly count on two full 24 hour days. The picture below shows cabin and outdoor temps one afternoon during the test at 4:30 PM. The cabin temp is read by a Ruuvi sensor mounted above the kitchen sink. The sensor titled Oliver Trunk is positioned in the rear basement, near the incoming water lines down by the 4" drain plumbing. For "Oliver Roof" I placed a sensor rooftop under the solar panels so that it is in the shade. If I took this picture 1-2 hours earlier in the day the roof temp would certainly be above 110F! I had no idea these results would be so positive and being the avid boondocker, it's great to know we can now count on A/C cooling anytime/anywhere! When you have the old-school A/C, with the basic single-speed ON/OFF compressor (Dometic, Truma, Tosot, Houghton, etc.), you will use approx. 100 Ah per hour in the heat of the day (assuming 1400W while the compressor is ON). The inverter or variable-speed A/C will consume in 24 hours what the standard A/C will consume in just 2 hours, OMG! (BTW, the Dometic P2 will produce worse results since it uses 1800W when ON, or 150 Ah/hour). The technology capability today is amazing. Time to stop waiting on the next great product. We’re not getting any younger! 😎

There are times that I feel exactly the same way with regards to being out in the world! Bill

At one point, we were traveling with 2 cats, male and female siblings. One day the screen door got left unlatched and Callie (the brave one) wandered out, followed by Max (the big coward). Steph saw them and walked toward the trailer. Callie jumped back inside but Max panicked and dove under the fifth wheel. Eventually, by securing Callie inside and leaving the door open, Max made a mad dash back into the camper and hid under the covers. The outside world looked pretty good. Until they were in it. 🙂

Just a note for those who are using the Anderson WD hitch - you are not supposed to lubricate the ball. It has to swivel with the trailer, otherwise you interfere with the anti-sway function.

Yes, you are correct. Oliver has had to source another coupler supplier. Bulldog is supposedly in bankruptcy proceedings as of Oct of 2025. Hopefully they will restructure. Pic of new coupler -

Welcome! We are #509, The Swallow and are in Durham, ME. We went to Campobello a couple of years ago, such a neat place. Except for the mosquitoes! Paula

Hey, our's was not brand new and it was still really special 😉 Welcome to the clan!

Sorry for all the hassle getting to the source of these brake problems. If it helps - I was thinking of you yesterday as I fished the Middle Fork of the Wood River. Bill

That was us. We were heading home to Woolwich, ME from Campobello Island in New Brunswick. Just set up an account so I could reply.

I posted this pic a couple years ago in another leaky window thread. Those weep slots are just not up to the task of keeping water from building up in the tracks (capillary attraction really hinders water flow). Folks talked about using pipe cleaners and lantern wicks to help wick out the water (maybe they work as well) but I find that 1/8" paracord works great. Cut some 3" lengths and stuff them in the slots. It's amazing how well they work! Don't heat seal the ends! Easy to replace and everyone has some paracord around right? Some may think it's kind of ugly looking but better than a wet bed! Cheers, Dave

The first picture is a different view from topgun2's. The second picture is of the aluminum support tubes I installed for my Nova Kool refrigerator. The aluminum tubes span the trough noted in the first picture. And if you really have a need to know in order to proceed with your installation, you can follow @jd1923's suggestion above. Or you can remove the drawers below the sink and cut a hole in the cabinet floor and have a look around, like I did. Mossey

Yes. I certainly did. And Yes it is my Oliver. And yes I love my Oliver. I'm trying to take care of her. There was a problem with the truck AND with the trailer. I wish I were an expert mechanic, but I'm not. I wish I had more space for tools, but I don't. I appreciate your posts -- they are usually very informative. I don't own the equipment, but I am trying to learn, and I lean on the forum members who have the expertise and/or experience to help me. I bought a caliper last year, but it wasn't very helpful to me trying to measure the size of that hole in the axle to figure out what size grommet I need, because the wires don't allow me to insert it fully. hahaha -- more wasted money, perhaps. Service Dept couldn't / wouldn't give me a clue. So I ordered a box of 200 grommets off Amazon that are shipping to New Mexico where I hope to make progress on this thing. Unfortunately, that is the way this issue has gone for me. If I knew a lot more about these systems, I might not have been taken advantage of by lazy or incompetent people. What to do? Learn. I'm learning.

I found this posted by Jessica Taylor on the FB page. She does not seem to be a member here on the forum. It's not good news but it bears repeating for all the anti-FB owners. "Second camping trip since getting hull 1701 back to Alaska in May and one of our windows shattered while pulling into our campsite. Looks like the opening arms broke and may have come out of the slider bar at bottom of window and hit the glass causing it to shatter. The glass is broken, the arms are broken, and the sliding bar is on the road to the campsite never to be found again. We noticed on our trip home to Alaska and on our next camping trip that the windows work themselves loose as you drive, because of this event if you have a 2026 you may want to check window tightness often throughout your travels! Has anyone else had a window break on their 2026 Oliver? It’s the weekend so will call service Monday, but am curious if anyone else has had this happen. Have been 100% happy with our new camper except the windows. Bill is going to look at the window on the street side bed in a bit because it looks like that one’s arms are out of the slide as well and may be broken. Not happy with these windows at all. Not to mention the fact that I pray this tape doesn’t ruin the paint. Oliver Travel Trailers we will call Monday and I’m sure this will all get cleared up Adding again, all of the windows in the Oliver are broken this way except the bathroom window. We will have to tape all of the windows closed and possibly tape all of the arms down to the frame to get home without further glass shattering because the glass bounces freely and the arms move about freely. The arms seem to act as a shatter point when they poke the glass just right. I have just placed a service ticket on their website as suggested. I will also keep gaffers tape on hand from here on out as suggested. 2026 owners, be very careful when traveling. I’m not sure that constantly tightening your windows throughout your travels would have solved this. The arms are clearly not built to handle this job as evidenced by all of them breaking on a brand new camper." https://www.facebook.com/groups/OllieOwners/permalink/2252240891847686/