ScubaRx

Yeah, that sounded like a good idea when I installed my EZ Flex system back in 2015 and I did it because all the YouTube videos suggested it. And it would have been a good idea if there was about 18 inches of clearance under the trailer. A year or so later, I swapped them to the outside and replaced all the bronze bushings, wet bolts with added 45 degree angle zerks. Now I can get to all the zerks from the outside without jacking up the trailer or removing any wheels. I can grease them all in about 5 minutes. Before it was a struggle to slither around under the trailer on my back and usually took an hour or so and a ruined T-shirt.

😁 That might help, but I think that acquiring Scotopic vision through the development of a human tapetum lucidum would probably be of greater benefit. 😁

I routinely drive with the fresh tank drain open if I want the tank empty at my next stop. It won't cause any problems.

Only if you don't want it to freeze and possibly burst.

How can you find anything inside them after dark?

Being a 2022 model, a quick glance at their Victron monitor would give them a ton of real time information. I’m not a fan of Bluetooth Apps to get info about my system’s status. Too much trouble to find your phone, find the app, get it up and running……

I do, all the time. In fact, I spent about an hour under there today inspecting my springs, hydraulic brake lines and all the other various connectors.

As you know, this generator will run on either gasoline or propane. It is rated at 4500 Watts peak and 4050 Watts continuous running on gasoline and 3700 Watts Peak and 3330 Watts continuous running on propane. The difference is due to the BTU's of gasoline vs propane. There is about a 20% decrease in efficiency using propane. But, you have chosen a great generator and I think going to a Honda 3200 would be a step backward. That 3200 watt rating is contingent on using gasoline. You're much better off with this one as it will easily run your AC or charge your batteries, maybe at the same time plus electric and remote start. What could be better? Good choice.

I’ll let Oliver management know that you disagree with their decision.

Through a family member, I’ve been well acquainted with all things Airstream for over 35 years. During his lifetime he owned dozens of their trailers in all sizes from the tiny Bambi to a giant three axle unit that had been custom built for one of the top Airstream Executives. I don’t personally know if Airstream quality has suffered suffered since Thor Industries, Inc. came along. Thor was founded on August 29, 1980, when Wade Thompson and Peter Busch Orthwein acquired Airstream. I do know that Airstream had not fared well during the economic downturn of the late 1970s, losing $12 million the year before it was acquired. So, if Airstream quality has slipped, it’s had over four decades to do it.

Mike, every time I've seen this problem, it's been due to the white (ground) wire coming into the trailer from the 7-pin wiring bundle not being securely connected to the grounding buss bar located under the aft dinette seat. All the rest of the wiring on that bar is yellow. All this was going on between the time our trailer was built and about Hull #200. The factory actually sent out a bulletin about this and a standing order to check for this problem on every trailer that passed thru the shop for any reason. Your trailer was probably checked at some time in the past and it either passed inspection or was fixed. Some of those back roads Carol makes you drive on could very easily have loosened that wire. Now would be a good time to check tightness on all the wires attached to that bar.

Maybe in Australia but not in the United States. The final say is that sticker affixed to the driver’s side door post. If you know of a way to have the manufacturer reissue that sticker with increased weight capacities based on ANYTHING that you have personally added to the vehicle post delivery, I’m sure there are lots of folks here that would be interested in you explaining how it’s done.

You sound as if you think Oliver Travel Trailers, as you know them, is going away. I don’t think anything is going to change. They are just trying to get more exposure to their products.

I’m throwing this in just to make sure everyone understands that there is NOTHING you can add to a vehicle that will increase its cargo or towing capacity. Not air bags, springs or anything else.

👍🏻

Although it probably seems strange to us, there are still thousands and thousands of potential RV customers out there that have never ever heard of an Oliver. If you don’t know about a product, you are very unlikely to ever purchase it. Having a network of dealers across the US would expose a lot more folks to an example of an Oliver, which, in turn, hopefully would lead to an increase in sales. I’ll admit that I did not like the idea at first, but after thinking it over, it does make good business sense to adopt this model.

As most everyone knows, the blinds hang on two tabs at the top and snap onto two brackets on the bottom. To take them down, pull out sharply at the bottom and then lift the whole frame off the two top hangers. (Later Edit...some have the same snap in brackets top and bottom, but you still just pull them off, If you don't know which you have, pull the bottom off first to allow you to check) If you’re traveling on a bumpy enough road the bottom will eventually pop loose from the bottom brackets and then it’s only a matter of time before the top will jump off the hangers. The best way I’ve found to prevent this is to take the blinds down, squirt some adhesive caulk on the two surfaces of each bottom bracket and re-install the blind. Once the caulk sets up, they’re unlikely to come loose accidentally. But, they can still be removed as described above albeit a little more difficult at the bottom.

I have no idea what, if anything, is growing in your water system but I seriously doubt it's slime mold. Slime mold is commonly found in the forest on hardwood mulch, especially in shaded locations. However, it can also appear on grass or other plants in a yard. In addition to the more common yellow and orange colors, slime mold may also be gray or black. While slime mold is pretty harmless, it still is unsightly and likely not something you want to keep around. Despite its unpleasant appearance, and equally unpleasant name, slime mold isn’t anything to be too concerned about. There are more than 700 different varieties of slime mold that are most commonly found in warm and moist climates. Slime mold, such as the aptly named dog vomit slime mold (Fuligo septica), doesn’t harm plants or the environment. It’s also not actually mold; nor is it a fungus. Rather, slime mold is a primitive type of organism that survives by feeding on decaying or dead organic matter. My guess is you're probably seeing some strain of algae. Algae can grow in stagnant water inside your RV tanks. RV drinking water tastes bad as a result. Expect to clean and sanitize RV water tanks regularly if you don’t empty them after each trip. 1 - Add 3/4 cup of bleach for every 15 gallons of water. Dilute the bleach with water, first. 2 - Allow bleach water to soak for at least two hours. Then flush water lines to the shower and sinks. 3 - Fill with clean water. Flush again to remove the bleach. Repeat until bleach smell is gone. 4 - Routinely clean and sanitize RV water tanks to prevent algae regrowth. Some people believe that vinegar is great for cleaning bacteria from water tanks. But vinegar is not for cleaning and sanitizing RV water tanks. And it won’t remove algae in RV water tanks either. As for apple cider vinegar, it’s recently gained a lot of publicity for losing weight, reducing diabetes, and lowering cholesterol. But it will not kill bacteria or algae in RV water tanks either.

That's the quickest and easiest way to do it.

I purposely did not go into the progression of tow vehicles from my 2007 Tahoe LTZ to my current 2022 Silverado High Country 3500 HD Diesel, mainly because I didn't want to take the time to repeat all this for the umpteenth time. See my post above. But... In between those two vehicles was a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT with a 6.2L engine and the Max Tow Package, then a 2017 Silverado High Country 2500 HD Diesel. The 1500 was a joke, had no power and overheated in the mountains, had a meager 1350 pound cargo capacity and was basically a complete failure as an adequate tow vehicle. The 2500 was a beast, got better fuel mileage than the 1500, had a 2150 pound cargo capacity, was extremely comfortable to drive, pulled the Oliver with ease and (I thought) was my forever tow vehicle, until it wasn't. After extensive weight measurements, I realized I was still about 700-800 pounds overweight. So I traded up to a 2022 Silverado High Country 3500 HD Diesel. It has all the attributes of the 2500 with a cargo capacity of around 3800 pounds and I am finally legal. Nobody will ever accuse me of being a minimalist. Just the tools I carry will weigh over 300 pounds. I need a big honkin' truck because when I leave home on a trip it will always be for months and will always cover between 5K and 15K miles. I want to have everything I (or anyone else) might need along with me. For those that pride themselves in only having things that they know they will absolutely need, I sincerely hope that when (not if) you break down it's right in front on a Home Depot or Lowes. As far as an F150 goes as a tow vehicle, there are many here that use them and claim that they are "just fine." Personally, I discovered that a 1/2 ton truck was far from meeting my needs. My suggestion would be a minimum of a 3/4 ton truck. It should fit in any modern garage. If it will not, you can try to get by with a smaller truck, enlarge your garage door opening or move.

I can see all the pictures. The video will not play, stating it is private. I wonder if it has been taken down or is being edited.

Our old original 10 year old ventline model never popped open during towing. I have just installed the Maxxair Dome (because it has a light, nothing was wrong with the old one) but we've not towed any since installation. I don't have any reason to believe it will open during travel.

Our first tow vehicle for our (then) new 2014 Oliver Elite II was a 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ, a holdover from our previous 2008 Oliver Elite, for which it had been a wonderful tow. After several months of towing, I realized there was a significant towing difference between the two trailers, and the ~7000lb tow capacity of the Tahoe wasn't gonna cut it so we decided that a new TV was in order. The newer Tahoe's are somewhat better with towing capacities >8K pounds, but this is still under powered for a trailer that will weigh 6500 pounds. Yeah, I know the numbers say it should work, but my experiences say differently. Keep that Ram 3500, I promise you that's your best bet.

This is an easy fix. If you don't already own a rivet gun, drill out the rivets, take the light down, tighten the backing nut (Loctite here?) and put it back up with some one inch #6 screws. You may not even have to un-wire it. The wiring can be accessed from inside the cabinet above. Just lift the rubber mat in the bottom.

Turn that elbow 90 degrees tighter. It most likely does not have Loctite.