ScubaRx

I agree.

👍

I’ll be Bach.

My bad, I see it now, Thanks!

It appears the steps are currently being made from tread plate rather than flat plate aluminum.

I personally can’t envision not having exactly the right tool for any and every job I do. You’ll soon learn that using the wrong size socket will quickly round off the flats on either bolt heads or nuts.

I apologize for not realizing the posts were too short to accommodate two stacked 4/0 terminals. You are correct, of course, and I thought your use of the threaded rod connectors to lengthen the battery terminals was innovative and rather elegant, but as someone mentioned earlier, steel is not the conductor of choice here. Copper or brass would be much better but you'd likely have to make your own.

At Oliver's request, in late 2013, I designed the first solar system that would go on to be installed in all the OEII's from 2014 and beyond from Hulls #050 thru #199. I included the best equipment on the market at the time. Blue Sky was the cream of the crop. Victron was just a future dream. Victron does not work any better than the Blue Sky stuff, it's just slicker, has more bells and whistles and better integration. My panel was not mounted where yours is. It is up at eye level where it should be because that's where I told them to put it. I don't know who's bonehead idea it was to start putting them down below the pantry, but I told them is was a bad idea. Just like I told them switching to Zamp was a bad idea when they began installing them starting with Hull #200. It took them years to finally change to something better (Victron). Most of us have moved all the wires out of the battery box except the jumpers and the main cables that feed the cabin. All those wires are now attached to buss bars, one for negatives and one for positives. It really cleans up the inside of the box and makes adding or changing things much simpler. Plus, you don't need taller posts on the batteries. You could use copper bars but the buss bars are cheaper and come already purposed for what you want to do.

It does drain into the gray tank, but it has to get through that valve first in order to get there.

One of the early Owners lathe turned some inserts out of 4x4 composite fence posts that fit perfectly. He gave some to his friends. I still use mine.

When the Oliver travel trailer went back into production in 2013 after the 4+ year hiatus, one of the items that had previously been included was deleted, the motorized electric cord reel. Since we had owned one of the early models that had that feature, I was disappointed to learn that it would no longer be included in the list of standard features. I insisted that we have one included in our Hull #050 and being the wonderful company they are, my "request" was accommodated. As far as I know, none of the trailers built after mine has had this feature.

Just glue it back on and forget about it.

I believe she figured it out about 4 hours ago and said that it is working now.

We’ve been up and down the Moki many times over the past 30 years. It’s not nearly as bad as a sharp stick in the eye.

I don't think it really matters where the repeater for tire minder system is actually located, but I am positive that you are correct in thinking that having the system is a must rather than a nice toy. It could very well save your (or someone else's) life or, at the very least, your bacon!

Yes, it has to sense a change in the water pressure to turn on and off.

I mounted the booster at the front of the trailer underneath the bathroom vanity. I ran a power wire from the switch up front (by the door in our camper). Somehow, I wasn't aware of the "mount near the tires" rule. But it worked well from this position.

Before we got our newest truck with tire sensors supplied for the trailer, we use the TST system with great success. I did use the booster and I wired it to my camera switch. When the rear camera was on (always during travel) there was power going to the booster. I sold this entire system to a new owner several years ago. I believe it is one of the best aftermarket brands.

Oliver quit pre-wiring the trailers for solar several years ago. The mounting plates for the panels are still fiber-glassed, into the roof however.

Do not cut the wire pigtail on the camera. The will not allow any credit if you do.

There aren't very many OEII’s that will have a tongue weight below 600 pounds. Most will range from 625-675. Some will go over 700 pounds. If you are a diehard minimalist you can probably squeeze by with that vehicle. Otherwise, you’re gonna want a real truck to really enjoy your travels without constantly worrying about being on the edge. Many of us are using 3/4 or 1 ton turbo diesel trucks to tow with and those of us in that camp have all moved up from smaller, more marginal vehicles.

It appears that 12VDC is back-feeding from the battery out to the plug. Getting shocked there would mean you'd also have to be touching the ground wire, the frame or the basket as well. @mossemi Check one of your wiring diagrams and see if the black wire from the 7-pin doesn't run directed to the battery. It probably does not currently, but I think it did in some of the earlier builds.

I push down the pedal with my foot but NEVER let it snap back up. I agree with you, that might be asking for trouble!

As a slight aside, because the solar panel connected to the "solar port" has its own controller and is wired directly to the batteries, whatever amperage input they provide will not be included in the total received over any given period of time. This is because their added input is not included in the calculations done in the main controller and displayed on whatever monitor you are using. Some simple rewiring can easily remedy that problem.

What had gone wrong that required an overhaul of the electrical system?