ScubaRx

I expect that would depend on several factors. Are you running any other 120V appliances? Is your fridge pulling from the batteries at the same time? Is it Daytime or Nighttime? Are you getting any replacement from the solar? How Much? A more informative question would be "How long will it take to replace 300 amp-hours if I run my batteries down half way while running my AC?" With really good sun, 400 watts of solar and a quality MPPT charge controller will produce 20 – 24 amps of power per hour on average. Assuming there are 6 hours of sunlight during the day, this would amount to 120 – 140 amp-hours over 24 hours. In the middle of winter or on cloudy days, you might get 3 hours of peak sunlight. This amounts to an output of 60 – 80 amp-hours. You should be able to get the batteries back up to 100% SOC in about 3 days. Here again, this is dependent on the sun and how much energy you pull out during the charging period. A generator would be much quicker.

And this is the point in every story where things usually start to go belly-up... Sounds like the story of Raggot the Gerbil.

Do you have any idea what your transmission temp was running? Our Silverado 3500 has a transmission temp gauge, after selecting tow/haul the volts meter is replaced with the trans temp gauge.

I just finished the install on ours yesterday.

I got a message from them last week. They are back in ND but are still trying to get the correct springs.

I'll bet you're are spot on about the noise coming from a reversed shackle. While working on the running gear of the trailer, while I would advise you to chock the opposite side, I would also recommend that you to never unhook the tow vehicle. It is your greatest safety net. With the trailer still attached to the truck, there is virtually no way it could move forward or backward.

I'm all about overkill, but a combination of two surge protectors (Surge/Only Portable at the pedestal and a Surge/EMS inside of your RV) will not interfere with each other, and will basically double your Joules of surge and spike voltage protection. And the inexpensive (under $100) portable Surge/Only protector on the pedestal becomes the sacrificial element that can be destroyed by a really big lightning hit in the area, or stolen by a thief looking to liberate you from your more expensive Surge/EMS protector.

The LEII's that are currently being built come with the 5200 pound axles. However, they have the four leaf 3500 pound spring packs rather than the 5 leaf spring packs that normally are supplied with the larger axles. Therefore the GVWR of the trailer remains at 7000 pounds rather than 10,400 pounds that the 5200 pound axles would usually provide. When we had Hull #050 built in 2013-14, I specified the 5200 pound axles. This does provide for a larger GVWR but it also adds more weight. With other modifications we had done (raised bed platforms, heavier tires), every time I've weighed it, with a full tank of water, full 30 pound propane tanks, 3000 watt generator sitting in the tongue basket, configured ready to camp with food and clothing it will come in at around 7200 pounds. Although at least one owner claims his camping weight to be below 5000 pounds, I would consider that our trailer and his trailer are definitely outliers. Most all the LEII's will weight 6000 pounds or better.

I'm glad it was a simple fix. On the second day of our Quartzsite trip this past January, I found that our water heater tank had a hairline crack on the very bottom and leaked whenever the pump came on and pressurized the system. Forty days without hot water. Ahhh, the joys of camping. I love the challenges.

I made them myself. They are all aluminum but the top one is painted white.

This question is for the guys only. Who among you doesn't pee outside just to save room in the black/pee tanks? Don't lie, if you say you've never done it, the rest of us will just laugh at you and call you a sissy boy.

In case nobody noticed, the OP (JD), made his original post on 06-29-2023, never participated in the thread or answered anyone's questions, he apparently lost interest and left the building not having been seen again since 07-27-2023. He asked the question and I’m addressing these comments to him even though he may never see them. Since this thread has been revived... Let me preface by saying this information is for boondocking situations. If you ALWAYS camp in campgrounds with full hookups, you can stop reading now, you will find nothing helpful here and probably won’t understand where I’m coming from. The fresh water tank is for carrying your well, - fresh water. Most folks do not drink from their fresh tank. There's nothing wrong with doing so, but if I decided to, I'd want to sanitize mine more often than the two times its been done since 2014. The gray water tank's only purpose is to collect water from both sinks and the shower drain. If you NEVER shower, brush your teeth or wash your hands and dishes or use water from the tap for any reason inside the trailer, then I can accept the fact that you do not need a gray tank. But should any of the aforementioned situations occur while boondocking, you’re going to need that gray tank. Even still, the gray tank is not certified for fresh water use. Although, if you're not drinking from it and (somehow) haven’t been using it to collect your "used" water I don't see why you couldn't do it. I believe you need a gray tank. The black water tank is sitting under the toilet and, with a regular toilet, catches everything that goes in from the top. If you have a composting toilet, then I assume you know how to operate it. I understand the thought process in believing that it would be nice to have more water on board. It naturally follows if you have an extra tank or two, why not re-purpose one or both of them to hold the extra water. Truthfully, I’ve never had a problem finding water to fill my fresh tank. And that’s during a long time and a hell of a lot of miles. It’s everywhere you are, I have a few helpful tips for finding and getting it but maybe in another thread.

I was asked about this issue and gave this answer. Unfortunately, a full size tire will NOT fit under the older tire covers. The recess in the back that receives the tire has been redone to be larger in the newer trailers. The tire cover has also been reworked to fit around a standard size tire. Both of these modifications required a major re-working of the plugs and molds. John Davies was not satisfied carrying a small tire as a spare and simply removed the tire cover and replaced the tire with a standard size leaving it uncovered. Not the most pleasing esthetic, but probably the simplest solution for an owner. Now, if you don't mind doing some reasonably extensive fiberglass work......

It sounds like your Truma A/C came with the optional "water-maker" feature installed.

This is good advice. Even though the smells are different, gray water can stink as badly or worse than black. This is caused from allowing food particles to go down the drain when washing or rinsing dishes in the sink. The food goes into the gray tank and begins to rot (think old dumpster in the alley behind a bar.) I wouldn't hesitate to sanitize the gray and black tanks with chlorine just like you would the fresh water tank. Let us know if you get resolution.

Good move.

I don’t think that would be what you want to do. Like Bill said, it doesn’t free you from bearing maintenance. The EZ Lube system is really only useful in situations where the axles are completely submerged in water—often. Like a boat trailer.

Tali hates tailgators (sic). We've never used one of these waste totes. But if I rigged up a carrier on the back bumper with a remotely controlled release.....hmmmmm.

Reminds me of New York’s Darth Vader… https://www.wired.com/2016/01/darth-vader-is-a-massive-train-plow-that-clears-crazy-amounts-of-snow/

The worst problems I’ve seen while assisting other owners with electrical problems has always been loose connections. The fact that this setup requires you to cut the molded female plug off your existing power cable and replace it with the smart plug indicates to me there will be some screws involved in the attachment of the new connector. To me, herein lies the potential for future issues. Every melted wire I’ve ever seen has been due to a loose or frayed screw connection. If the system included molded plugs on a 40 foot cord, I’d like it a lot better. Of course, then it would cost $300.

Interesting video. Further solidifies my opinion of EV's.

Oliver will not make any substitutions or modifications during the construction phase. They probably would be willing to make the swap in service before delivery. If you have the ability to do it yourself, you should.

The main thing would be to keep it out of the weather. Direct sunlight, rain, hail etc. The floor being dirt wouldn't matter too much to me unless it flooded and turned to mud during wet weather. You would ideally want electricity and water available near where it is parked and easy access, maybe even pull thru but backing is not too hard to learn to do. A connection for dumping would be a real plus. Sounds like a great starting point.

I assume you are speaking of this one... https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Plug-B30ASSYPB-Non-Metallic-Connector/dp/B0194H9T92/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=305027195902&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1020828&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=935590151030099993&hvtargid=kwd-384981510441&hydadcr=10101_10948922&keywords=rv+smart+plug&qid=1690758187&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0 Amazon's Description: Eliminates Overheating - Increased pin and clip surface area greatly improves electrical conductivity during high amperage demand Weather Resistant Seals - Multi-fin silicone gaskets installed in the inlet cover and the plug body eliminates moisture penetration Quick and Easy Installation - Inlet mounting flange holes match twist-type holes for an installation that is typically finished in 30 minutes The SmartPlug Combo Kit includes both a 30 Amp 125 Volt inlet connector and a retro-fit connector. The retro-fit connector is designed to be used with your existing cord. This package offers superior performance and ease of use. The inlets are available in stainless steel and three non-metallic colors, (White, Gray or Black), of high performance/flame resistant material. Increased pin and clip surface area greatly improves electrical conductivity during high amperage demand. No twist required, the unique plug body shape and push-in design mean it only goes in the right way every time - even in the dark! Side clips and inlet cover lock the plug body securely into the inlet which eliminates any stress on the electrical components by the movement of the power cord. Multi-fin silicone gaskets installed in the inlet cover and the plug body eliminates moisture penetration. Inlet mounting flange holes match twist-type holes for an installation that is typically finished in 30 minutes. There may well be some advantages with the Smart Plug, but I'm not too sure that I can see $150 worth of difference in this and what comes installed on the Oliver.

The right thing we did was to buy an Oliver. In fact, we've bought two of them. Any other brand would have turned out to be a disappointment. The thing I would have done differently would have been to buy the correct tow vehicle in the beginning instead of going thru five different ones to finally get to where I needed to be all along. You can see the particulars in my signature. As @Frank C stated above "...just be prepared with the checkbook. It ain’t a cheap hobby... Good Luck