ScubaRx

First off, let me welcome you to the forum and tell you something you probably already know. You have chosen the best fiberglass trailer that has ever been built. You should get many trouble free years of use out of it. This won't make your wait any shorter or any easier, but just a year or so ago the wait for an Oliver was over 12 months. The wait for an Escape trailer was 26 months and the only price guarantee they would make was that it would be several thousand more than it was the day you ordered it. They could not give you a final price on order day. Besides all that, when it was all said and done, you still only ended up with an Escape travel trailer. Not even a second choice for most of us. These next two months will go by so fast you won't believe it.

It should be simple to make a turkey out of it.

One of the last ones to post their Oliver's here on the forum never got a hit. A few days ago I spoke to him on the phone about what had transpired and advised him to list it on Facebook. I heard from him yesterday and he said he'd had a half dozen inquiries already with at least three of them very interested. I think you'll do fine selling on FB. Good Luck!

My original bathroom door (Hull #050) was the same door that was on our previous Hull #026. They were hand crafted at the factory and had a full length magnetic strip along the leading edge to hold it shut. There was also the twist latch. At some time, they decided to have the doors made outside rather than in house. I would have suspected they were made the same way, with the magnetic strip. The main reasons for the manual latch were to keep the door from opening when you bump it with your butt while taking a shower and, of course, to keep the bears out.

Maybe I was the only victim.

I got 4 of the 11 posted pictures.

Do you own a General Motors Truck With the Rear View Mirror Camera? Have you mounted a Camper Top that has obscured its vision rendering it unusable? Would you like to have that feature restored?

A phantom draw (AKA Parasitic loads) are the electrical draws from appliances that continuously suck power from your RV battery. Items like carbon monoxide detectors and other electronics with lights or display screens can be parasitic loads.is a loss The phantom draw on our trailer is 0.4 amps. That's 9.6 amps daily. On a typical AGM battery bank, you will have between 200-225 amp-hours available for use before they reach that critical 50% mark. Our trailer with no power input and those same batteries would be at that point in about 3 weeks. I'd warn that friend because there's no possible way those batteries won't be completely, irrevocably dead in 3-4 months. Even if he disconnects the batteries, AGM batteries will have a self-discharge or internal electro-chemical “leakage” of between 1% and 15% per month, depending on storage temperature. The warmer it is, the faster they will discharge. He basically has two choices. He can remove all the batteries, take them home and put them on a 3 stage charger for the winter OR he can go to his storage unit about once every month and pull the trailer into the sun or use a generator to run the charger and charge them there. Regardless of their construction, whether it's a "sealed" AGM deep cycle or flooded auto starter battery, a fully charged lead acid battery has a freezing point down around -55°C/ -67°F.

Pay attention here, light duty truck owners. This is absolutely true.

Congrats on your upcoming retirement. You've made the right choice in an Oliver. We've owned two over the past 16 years starting in 2008. The company is following a business path that will keep them moving forward and customers happy for years to come.

I've done off and on research on the Acorn vs Bulge Acorn Nut dilemma since I first posted about these lug nuts and questions were raised over a year ago. What Frank said is true, there is less contact area with the wheel from the nut. From what I've read, there is an approximate 6% decrease. Otherwise the fit is perfect. I was unable to find anything in solid Stainless Steel that stated they were of the Bulge Acorn design. I've driven over 10K miles after installation. I torque to 95 pound-feet. There has never been a time I've discovered a loose lug nut. I do check. Bonus Information... that any good engineer would already know, but that I've only recently discovered, (I might have known it 53 years ago when I took physics at Ole Miss) Alert readers will note my use of “pound-feet” instead of “foot-pounds”. Are these units of measurement Interchangeable? The short answer is NO. They are each separate, distinct units of measure. The “pound-foot” (lb-ft) is a measure of torque. Torque is a measure of the force that can cause an object to rotate about an axis. The “foot-pound” (or more accurately, “foot-pound-force”), is a measurement of work. Work is the measurement of force over a given distance.

It’s that way in Mississippi. I alway trade in a used vehicle when buying a new one. The you only pay sales tax on the difference in price.

Nice Job. Whenever I have to repair/replace something, I too make a harness with disconnects to re-connect it. I used a 10AWG SAE to SAE Quick Disconnect Wire Harness on my two back jacks to allow them to be easily removed for servicing or replacing.

How so?

I assure you Rich, Mike meant no disrespect to the great expanse of land to the North of the USA call Canada. I'm reminded of the time in the immediate post Hurricane Katrina days when a national news team was describing the damage done to our Gulf Coast. They went on and on about the loss of life and the great amount or property damage done to "...Louisiana, Alabama and to the land mass in between them..." Hello, it's got a name, we call it Mississippi.

No, everything about sales and service in Hohenwald will remain the same.

Frank, I will share with you and the rest of the group all the information that was passed on to the Moderator team on 10-20-2023. Then you guys will have as much information as we have. This came from Top Management through Matt Duncan. The reason your screen capture picture above shows as having been posted by myself on August 17 is because when they closed the classified section, the moderators were locked out as well. I wanted to be able to let the current owners that had advertisements posted what the situation was, but I had no access to enter a post with the information. What I did was revive an old, deleted post (obviously from August 17), delete all the information in it and past in part of what you see below. I DID NOT know in August that this was coming. "Just wanted to give everyone a heads up we have locked the Classified Forum up to prevent future postings. As we are moving forward with the initiative to start selling through dealers, it is in our best interest with those potential dealerships to not promote (or appear to promote) the sale of used trailers for sale on the forum. We will leave the Classified Section up for a period of time with the following announcement and allow all existing Used Oliver Travel Trailer postings to expire. Beginning October 20, 2023, members of the forum will no longer have access to post Used Oliver Travel Trailers for sale and other products for sale in The Classified section on our Forum. If you are interested in selling or buying an Oliver Travel Trailer, we encourage you to use one of the following websites or social media outlets that will help you better find a buyer or find a used Oliver for sale. RVtrader.com RVT.com Oliver Travel Trailer for Sale Facebook page If you have any questions, please let us know. Thanks for all your help and support!"

I agree that all pex fittings should be brass from the factory, but shark-bite fittings are 10x the cost. They don't work any better than the crimp-on's, they are just easier for the not-so-handy owners without every tool known to man and the know how to use them.

Oliver is currently still using the Xantrex inverter/charger. At one time I believe they investigated the Victron I/C for improved compatibility but I think that weight or space was an issue.

Looks as if it might have been constructed from a 20 foot shipping container.

As Sherry points out, a 5 cubic foot freezer is a ton of frozen meat storage. A rule of thumb is one cubic foot of freezer space will store 35-40 pounds. So it's actually only about 175 pounds, but still. I know you are looking at an Oliver to buy, but unless you're planning to travel with a fully grown timber wolf, it's going to be hard for you to consume that much meat in a reasonable time. I'm all about overkill and no one will ever accuse me of being a minimalist, but while I think your idea is sound it may be perhaps a bit unrealistic about what you really need. We travel with a 75 Liter Dometic dual zone freezer/fridge combo. Either or both sides can be fridge or freezer. It equates to about 2.6 cubic feet of storage. The great thing about going in this direction is that it will run off either 12 VDC or 120 VAC. It lives in the bed of our truck with its own Lithium battery and solar panels set up on the roof of the camper top. It will easily store enough fresh meat to keep that wolf happy for a couple of weeks.

Forgo the 4x4 if you want to add extra cargo capacity to a 1/2 ton pickup. The problem with this is finding what you want in a 2 wheel drive will require the unicorn to also be able to fart rainbows.

Spoiler alert: Only one of them was manufactured during this decade. Only one was manufactured during the previous decade. The other eight were all manufactured during the first decade of this millennium. 2006 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 – Reliability Score: 55/100 2001 Toyota Tundra - Reliability Score: 52/100 2008 Chevrolet Colorado/GMC Canyon - Reliability Score: 47/100 2005 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra - Reliability Score: 40/100 2004 Ford F-150 - Reliability Score: 20/100 2003 Mazda B-Series - Reliability Score: 19/100 2013 Ram 1500 - Reliability Score: 15/100 2020 Jeep Gladiator - Reliability Score: 15/100 2008 Ford F-250/F-350 - Reliability Score: 6/100 2004 Nissan Titan – Reliability Score: 1/5 Customer Satisfaction

Those screws are backed up by nuts? The only thing I would guess would be glue in addition. I don't think they would have needed screws and glue. Additionally I can't see any way to place the two upper brackets unless it was done pre-assembly and I don't think they would have done it that way.

That is a nice looking trailer. This the worst website design I've ever tried to use.