ScubaRx

We made a 15,000 mile loop from home, through Canada, Alaska and back home in 2019. About 90 days on the road with 95% boondocking. We never had trouble finding a place to stay. In Fairbanks we stopped at a glassblowing shop and they invited us to spend the night in their parking lot! I'm not interested in spending money to park overnight. If we're going to stay a few days in a given spot - maybe, but not if I can find a place to boondock.

Take care Frank. Thank you for all your insightful posts and comments since you joined us back in November of 2018. I wish you all the best in your future endeavors.

Darn, I've been found out.

To overcome the ground plane issue, could you not just install a base plate of pre-famulated amulite mounted right up against the roof inside the fiberglass topper? It would seem to me that this would effectively eliminate any side fumbling between the novertrunnions and the grammeters. Sufficient cooling should be provided by the non-reversible tremie pipes normally provided with the purchase of the base plate but if overheating occurs, consider installing a good panametric fan. The best ones consist simply of six hydrocoptic marzlevanes mounted on a ambifacient girdle waneshaft. They can be run natively on 12 volts DC and are easily found and any Big Box store. This should increase your bandwith significantly however, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration or if forescent skor motion is required, you will need to install a left facing drawn reciprocation dingle arm.

We too have camped through some serious storms, most all of which were thunderstorms. I am always somewhat anxious during one while we are inside the Oliver. The fiberglass hull provides zero protection from a lightning strike. If it gets bad enough, we will leave the trailer and get inside the truck. This would be the only time that an Airstream is clearly better than an Oliver due to the fact that its metal body normally protects people from lightning strikes by acting as a Faraday cage. We have never been in a hail storm of any consequence.

I always wondered if that wouldn’t turn out to be the proper way to deal with the beads. If for no other reason than to be able to balance the tires the correct way.

Basically, an Oliver Owner has three choices on where to put his/her portable generator. 1 - Put it in the basket on the tongue of the trailer. 2 - Put it in the rear of your truck and deal with having to futz around with it when you want to use it. 3 - Put it in the garage at home and leave it there.

Ninety is probably plenty, but one hundred is OK too. Tighten in steps, say 50-70-90 or 100 pound/feet at a time. Important, check torque again after driving about 75 miles.

Did I mention that this rear mounting thing is a bad idea?

Richard, I know this is a little late in the game but I believe Badger's solution was to purchase the bonding plug that Phil mentioned.

I've never seen one physically attached to the trailer in any way other than in the generator (excuse me, cargo) basket on the front. This is a very poor idea, but I suppose you could fabricate some sort of carrier for the rear. Other than that, there's no other open space. Did I say that was a poor idea? Good luck, though...

I do believe I have high jacked and sidetracked this thread and I sincerely apologize.

The only good thing about the light is they will probably turn it off after a short time. Unlike those that build a stinking fire and go to bed with it still smouldering.

Those back-flow preventers (Allows water to flow only in one direction - note the tiny arrow on each of them in the plumbing graphic).

Let's just stick to answering the questions asked. Which you mostly did, thank you very much. @GAP please pass on John’s very thorough explanation of the retrofitting. I doubt it could be improved upon very much. The new owners probably have a valid (albeit personal) reason in wanting to change out the composting toilet for a regular one because there are also "SOOOOO many reasons" to not want one. One reason is medical. Most folks don't discuss their intimate bowel habits with the other members on an open forum. Even though it's true that 90% of new buyers choose the composting toilet, there is a plethora of medical reasons that these are not the necessarily the best toilet choice for everybody. The greatest obstacle to properly using one may well be the need to keep solids and liquids separate. What if your “solids” are usually mostly liquid. There is a wide range of problems that can cause chronic diarrhea; some of the most common causes include irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), inflammatory bowel disease (Crohn disease and ulcerative colitis), mal-absorption syndromes, like celiac disease, in which food cannot be digested and absorbed. There are also infections such as C. diff (also known as Clostridioides difficile). There are, as well, many other less common causes of chronic diarrhea. There is probably no drug on the market that doesn’t include “diarrhea” among its many side effects. Ten percent of Americans have Type II diabetes. The most prescribed oral medication for that disease is Metformin, but its gastrointestinal adverse effects such as diarrhea, flatulence, nausea and vomiting can be a barrier to its use and quite possibly make using a composting toilet very difficult. I seriously doubt there has ever been a discussion between a sales rep and a potential new owner that checked off 'composting toilet' on their order list about any of these issues.

Yeah, but this thread lost all its focus before the end of the first page. Now it's a "What grease is best for my ball" or a "What beer can should I cover my ball with" question. If anyone wants to continue this line of inquiry, please start a new thread.

It is about time. When the Outlaw Oliver was being built in 2013, I specified that each light should have its own switch. If they do this, I can add it to my long list of our original ideas that have now become either standards or options.

This has way too many rules. Especially since there are now folks offering free boondocking spaces for up to five days with porta-potties, food vendors for all meals, no kids under 18, rattlesnakes, only fiberglass trailers allowed, blue grass music, fire ants, and no hidden fees... For what else could you ask?

I realize that it is a little late to jump in here with this information. The title of this thread is: Battle Born Lithium Ion 12 Volt Batteries in an Oliver? The Lithium Batteries that are optional on the new Oliver's and the Battle Born replacements are Lithium Iron Phosphate not Lithium Ion. There are some big differences in the two technologies and I'll not try to explain them here. Google Lithium Iron Phosphate vs Lithium Ion for in-depth information. Just an FYI, Carry On...

First off, let me welcome you to the forum and tell you something you probably already know. You have chosen the best fiberglass trailer that has ever been built. You should get many trouble free years of use out of it. This won't make your wait any shorter or any easier, but just a year or so ago the wait for an Oliver was over 12 months. The wait for an Escape trailer was 26 months and the only price guarantee they would make was that it would be several thousand more than it was the day you ordered it. They could not give you a final price on order day. Besides all that, when it was all said and done, you still only ended up with an Escape travel trailer. Not even a second choice for most of us. These next two months will go by so fast you won't believe it.

It should be simple to make a turkey out of it.

One of the last ones to post their Oliver's here on the forum never got a hit. A few days ago I spoke to him on the phone about what had transpired and advised him to list it on Facebook. I heard from him yesterday and he said he'd had a half dozen inquiries already with at least three of them very interested. I think you'll do fine selling on FB. Good Luck!

Is this a free offer to camp with no fees attached?

My original bathroom door (Hull #050) was the same door that was on our previous Hull #026. They were hand crafted at the factory and had a full length magnetic strip along the leading edge to hold it shut. There was also the twist latch. At some time, they decided to have the doors made outside rather than in house. I would have suspected they were made the same way, with the magnetic strip. The main reasons for the manual latch were to keep the door from opening when you bump it with your butt while taking a shower and, of course, to keep the bears out.

Maybe I was the only victim.