ScubaRx

Progressive Dynamics PD5110010V Automatic Transfer Switch With Pig Tail AC Wire Connections

It may go all the way in and bottom out while you are still pushing on it, but it won't stay there when you move your hand away. This is OK.

Cathy, I am in 100% agreement with you on keeping the trailer warm. I keep it connected to shore power and leave a small space heater on continually during the winter. I like to keep it about 60 degrees inside. Just because your pipes are winterized and won't freeze doesn't mean that other things won't suffer from being frigidly cold. If you have Lithium batteries you don't want them trying to charge themselves when the temp in the battery box is below freezing.

I was at the factory recently and I saw at least 8-10 Dometic units stacked against the back wall in service. So, as far as the swaps being done there, it appears that many owners are just leaving them behind.

Four AGM 6V FLA batteries will weigh about 265 pounds. Conservatively, you will have about 200 usable Ah. Three Battle Born 100 Ah batteries (this all that will easily fit into the existing battery tray) will weigh about 95 pounds and you will have essentially 300 usable Ah. One of Oliver's installed GTX12V315A-E2107-CS200 optional battery packs will weigh about 68 pounds and you will have essentially 315 usable Ah.* One of Oliver's installed GTX12V630A-E2112-CS200 optional battery packs will weigh about 128 pounds and you will have essentially 630 usable Ah.* * You should probably limit your use to no more than 90% of capacity

Thus my caveat: "Unless you have FLA batteries..."

Mike Mossey and myself will be holding a demo at the Rally to address this issue.

10 years, no problems

What’s “overkill”?

The transfer switch would be located under the forward dinette seat. Brown box two big wires coming in, one going out.

I ditched the original sleeved lug nuts and replaced them with solid stainless steel ones.

If those Michelins were on your truck would you be getting rid of them?

Unless you have FLA batteries, you’re putting an additional 160 pounds on the already heavy side. The floor will easily hold up the weight.

This is applicable to lithium batteries only.

The rate of charge going into the battery is dependent on the amps available. The best that 340 watts of solar can do is about 25 amps. The onboard charger is 45-150 amps depending on the type you have.

I agree. I want to try them and I'm confident they'd be great in finding my keys at home. How would these perform if one were in the trailer and it was stolen?

Our 2014 LEII came outfitted with Michelin RIB's. When it came time to replace them I went with Hercules H-901 LT225/75R16. They are F/12 Commercial Light Truck All-Steel Belted. These are also available in a ST model if you are so inclined. I prepared this chart for a fellow Oliver owner several years ago to help him compare several different brands. Tire Comparisons.pdf

Thanks for taking the time to make this video and then making it public. That rubber inner track is easy to remove and replace. It will also allow you to remove the slider window from the frame and clean it well. Will you be at the rally in May?

There were probably 8-10 couples that went with Jim and Evon to eat that night. After it was all done, he picked up the entire bill. We all told him that he didn't need to do that, and we were able to pay for our meals, to which he said, "If it weren't for all of you sitting here tonight, I wouldn't be able to pay for your meal." Jim was a true Southern gentleman and I sure do miss him.

I used two 170 watt panels on the Oliver. I kept all the original Blue Sky equipment. I took the three 100 watt panels off the Oliver and used two of them to go onto the truck. I am using all Victron equipment on the truck install.

Fifteen plus years ago when I bought our Yamaha generator to accompany us on our travels, I wanted a way to secure it in the basket. I had a vinyl covered cable with looped ends that perfectly fit around the generator and the basket twice. I secured the ends together with a puck lock. I now keep the lock on the top of the generator under the cover to protect it from road grime and the weather. It also makes it much easier to get to when I want to unlock it (about once a year to change the oil.) This has worked all these years as I still have the generator. Of course, it doesn't hurt that the generator weighs in at about 165 pounds, so it'll take a big ole girl to steal it.

It's my understanding that airtags use the proximity of iPhone's to track objects. If your tracked item (dog or generator) is not within 200ft from an iPhone, the Airtag system won’t be able to find them. Airtags do not have GPS or LTE to allow them to function independently, so without an iPhone around they can’t locate anything.

Sorry, I didn't realize there was ever a BMV-712 that did not have built-in Bluetooth. At any rate they all do now. At present, the BMV monitors consist of products with BMV-7 in the model name. Below I list the various current models. hopefully this will assist you to be sure you choose the right one for your application and budget. Except for the BMV-700H they all have a voltage range of 6.5V – 95V and they all can handle 1 – 9999 Ah battery banks. The models below, except as noted, are without Bluetooth built-in and I collectively refer to them as the BMV-700 series. BMV-712 Smart (Bluetooth built-in, with Auxiliary input) This is Victron's latest model. BMV-702 (with Auxiliary input) BMV-702 (Black Face, with Auxiliary input) BMV-700 (This is the base model) BMV-700H (high voltage version - 60V – 385V) The **2 in the product name refers to the fact this product features a second input which can be programmed to measure the voltage (of a second battery, or battery temperature, or midpoint voltage.) I am starting from scratch installing a complete new system in our truck to run our Dometic CFX3 75DZ refrigerator. I didn’t particularly care whether it was Bluetooth or not, but I chose the BMV-712 Smart because it came with a shunt, which you have to have for any battery monitoring system (it is my understanding that a 500A/50mV shunt, fitted with a quick connect PCB is now part of every BMV-700 series monitor product package.) I actually find the BMV-712 Smart monitor to be quite attractive with its included separate front bezel for a square or round display appearance, a securing ring for rear mounting and screws for front mounting. So, if you are looking to update your existing system that has no decent monitoring capability (think Zamp) you will need to replace your solar charge controller. Also, if you think that it would be advantageous to have monitoring capability (it would) you’ll need a shunt and a way to monitor it. For monitoring, I’d chose one of the above models from the BMV-700 series. But, if you don’t want the expense and trouble of a large solar refit or just can’t go on living without Bluetooth capability, then you could just add a Victron SmartShunt, an all in one battery monitor, only without a display. Your phone acts as the display which connects via Bluetooth to the Victron Connect app so you can conveniently read out all monitored battery parameters, like state of charge, time to go, historical information and much more. Personally, I want to be able to glance at a wall mounted monitor and know everything I need to know. I don't want to have to pull out my phone, find the app, start the app... you know the drill. The SmartShunt is an alternative for a BMV-700 series battery monitor, especially for someone that desires less wiring. It is is equipped with Bluetooth, a VE.Direct port and a connection that can be used for all the same things the monitors can do.

I have recently replaced the solar panels on the Outlaw Oliver. I used the old panels to attach to the topper on our truck. The truck panels will be used to keep a new Battle Born 100 Ah charged to run our Dometic CFX3 75DZ refrigerator located in the bed. In reading and researching different aspects of this project, I came across some info concerning the Solar Panel Disconnect Switch that I want to share with the group. All existing Oliver's with a solar system installed at the factory will only have a big red on/off switch installed in the positive side of the power wires coming down into the coach before going to the charge controller. This serves as their Solar Panel Disconnect Switch. The following information is from a guy named Nate Yarbrough and I copied it directly from his Blog Post that is listed below. Is a Disconnect Between the Solar Array and Charge Controller Necessary? Short answer: Yes. And here’s why: NEC 2020 Article 690.13 says that “Means shall be provided to disconnect the PV system from all wiring systems including power systems, energy storage systems, and utilization equipment and its associated premises wiring. Is a Dual Pole Disconnect Necessary for a DIY Camper Solar Array? Again, Yes… And here’s why: NEC 2020 Article 690.13 section (E) States that “ The PV System disconnecting means shall simultaneously disconnect the PV system conductors that are not solidly grounded from all conductors of other wiring systems. Since camper electrical systems are generally NOT grounded, this means that both the positive and negative conductors from the solar array need to be able to be simultaneously disconnected, and our dual pole breaker does exactly that where those other breakers and switches do not. _________________________________________________________________________ This is a link to his YouTube Video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOXnWXvLXko This is a link to his blog post that gives you all the same info with written instructions, a parts list and pictures. https://www.explorist.life/how-to-wire-a-solar-disconnect-for-a-diy-camper-electrical-system/