Townesw

Is your trailer fairly level front to back and side to side? Is the bathroom sink and shower drain valve open (the one beside the toilet - is the handle pulled out)? Those tank level indicators are not real reliable. The level is greatly affected by the attitude of the trailer.

[postquote quote=175221][/postquote] I agree about doing it yourself. [postquote quote=175233][/postquote] The video I watched on the CargoGlide install shows them drilling holes. Not something I’m looking forward to doing to a new Duramax, but I’d rather me do it than some installer.

I bet the rear window in the Oliver is like it is because it is the escape hatch.

Yes you can get a nice Chevy truck with plenty of towing capacity but I think you will quickly reach the GVWR of the 1500. Occupants, tongue weight, gear in the bed and you quickly approach the 7300 lb rating on the 2019 Crew Cab. I don’t think the towing package or gear ratio affects the GVWR. All 1/2 tons are max 7300 lb.

TL,DR: You need to look at the GVWR and the GAWR. Here’s why: I had a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Short bed 4x4 Z71 with the 5.3L V-8. Then we found out about Oliver Travel Trailers and ordered an LE2. This truck pulled and stopped the trailer just fine and all weights were well within the limits. But then I wanted a camper shell to keep the stuff in the back of the truck dry. The back of the truck is like your storage shed at home. I carry tools, a grill, chairs, a cooler, some spares, blocks, chocks, grease, and a few more things. Now with my truck loaded and the Oliver sitting on the ball my Gross Vehicle Weight is 7180 lbs against a GVWR of 7200 lbs. I can’t add a CargoGlide, a portable fire fit, a sewer tote, a generator, a clam tent, an outdoor carpet, etc. without putting me over my GVWR. I come from a farming background where “if a truck could pull it we loaded it” but that won’t work on the open road. You must stay within the weight ratings of the TV, the trailer and the combination. So, given my situation I just bought a 2500 Duramax with 10,000 lb GVWR. Now I’m not saying that you need that much truck, but I suggest that you consider what you want to carry, how you want to carry it, then add some capacity to carry more, then consider weight ratings on any TV before you buy. Or you will end up buying again. And soon.

For a while the last 3 numbers in the VIN was the hull number. They had to change the way they assign VIN numbers so now the hull number is on a plate just inside the door under the switch plate. Oliver is sending out hull number plates to owners of trailers built before the change. They gave out plates to those who were at the rally. Here’s a picture of mine laying on the very nice cutting board that Foy Sperring makes

Couldn’t stand it. Bought a Duramax today. You all be sure to collect your GM sales commissions.

CAT scale is a company that has Certified Automated Truck scales located throughout the US. Many RVers use these scales to weigh if they don’t have access to another private or public scales. https://catscale.com/ https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/the-easy-way-to-weigh-your-rv/

RTV means RTV silicone sealant https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone There are several types depending on the application. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-high-temp-red-rtv-silicone-gasket/

“Inch WC” is one way of representing “inches of water column” which is a unit of pressure. Most, if not all, of our propane appliances operate on low gas pressure such as 11 inch WC, which is equal to about 0.4 psi. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inch_of_water

AGM means Absorbed Glass Mat as in AGM batteries. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery

Hz stands for Hertz, as in 120 volt, 60 Hz AC power. Your Progressive Industries remote display will show “60H”. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utility_frequency

Another one seen on fiberglass trailer forums: MFG meaning Molded FiberGlass, as in an MFG camper.

SOB means Some Other Brand when referring to travel trailers other than Olivers.

US Army Corps of Engineers https://www.rv-camping.org/coecampgrounds/

Gregg Scott: What model Cargo Glide are you using?

Who is using truck bed slide out trays/racks? What product are you using and what vehicle are you using it in? Please post pictures. Especially ScubaRx: tell me about your rig please.

Regarding torque wrenches, I have always been reminded to return a torque wrench to zero for storage. See item 9 in the following attachment. https://www1.snapon.com/display/231/ToolNews/TechRefs/2008/TorqueWrench08.pdf

After pulling our trailer for maybe a couple thousand miles I found a little play in the bearings so I tightened the nut holding the hub on per Dexter’s instructions. See bottom of page 56 in the Dexter Axle Manual in the Oliver University. http://olivertraveltrailers.com/wp-content/uploads/oliver-university/Component_Manuals/Dexter_Axle/DEXTER-AXLE-MANUAL.pdf

My trailer is sitting dead level on a concrete shop floor and the distance from inside the top of the coupler to the floor is 21.25 +/- 0.1 inches. I have hull 313.

Those tanks are long in length, narrow in width and short in height and the sensors are at the rear ends. You can be easily fooled by the readings. You will become accustomed to what you are putting in them and how often you need to dump and the display will mean nothing. Have fun. If grey water is not coming up through the shower drain you are good. Just be sure to close the valve beside the head before you move.

Is your trailer level when you are seeing the 100% reading or is the front elevated? The grey tank level sensor is located where the yellow mark is in the following picture. It is near the rear. Even if you only have a little water in your grey tank and the front is elevated the sensor could be seeing 100%.

Coy, Does it look like Section D will be reopened by May 15?

One of ours was out of place when we picked our trailer up. I saw it and asked them to fix it before we left. It took two fellows to do it. I don’t know how they got it back in place, but they did and used a bead of caulk to secure it. Since you only see one screw it must be one of the strips behind the front axle. The screw you see is probably on the curb side and is actually securing the gas line. Are your tanks empty? If not, try emptying them and see if that helps. You might try pulling on the strip (should make it smaller in cross section) while stuffing it in from the side. Stick your finger in between the cross member and bottom hull and see if you can feel adhesive residue. If no trace of adhesive, you might try a little soapy water as a lubricant.

Last fall we parked in a really steep campsite with the tongue high off the ground. I had purchased a pair of Camco screw type stabilizer jacks on the way to this campsite. I rigged them as shown in the photos. I only snugged them up against the frame so as to stabilize the camper, not to take weight off of the front jack. With these stabilizers in place and the rear jacks extended the trailer was very stable for the 4 days we were at that campsite. I will continue to use these as shown, probably not for “one night stands” but for extended stays in one campsite. I would not use these as jack stands, only stabilizers. They are very light but work well in this application.