Townesw

I emailed Alex and told him that I had a 2018 Oliver Legacy Elite II with “slits” in the window shade fabric. He responded saying that they were running about a month behind. I never told him how many I needed. Almost a month later to the day I received 4 new blinds. He never asked for measurements. Probably the best customer service I’ve ever had. Bill

Interesting that your 4th breaker label shows refrigerator on a 20 amp but your 4th breaker is actually a 15 amp. I’m curious. Plug something into your custom outlet and trip your number 5 breaker and see if what you plugged in goes off. That custom outlet may be on breaker 5 but if it is wired in before the GFCI I think it will still be hot when the GFCI is tripped. Also, the wires coming from the electrical panel attach to the “line” side of the GFCI. The wires feeding the other outlets attach to the “load” side of the GFCI. If not hooked up right I don’t think it will reset. Bill

You can see the Easy Start without removing the A/C top cover. You will need a ladder. The Easy Start is that beige colored box behind the copper tubing. Closer view of the Easy Start through that rectangular opening: But yes, you need to put your eyes on everything, standard equipment as well as options.

In the back attic Under the dinette Jack fuses under street side bunk. Also one more of these below the front jack. Also under street side bunk, CO /LP detector 1 amp fuse

Does this help any?

This may get me banned, but: Somebody at the rally this year told me that their small dog slept under the dinette. When the dog passed gas it set the CO/LP alarm off. Alarm kept going off until they moved the dog’s bed. Moved the dog’s bed, alarm quit going off. Respectfully submitted, Bill (certainly not Martha)

Leigh, The propane level monitor is not hooked up on any of our Olivers, I don’t think. I use a Truma Levelcheck to determine the level of liquid propane in my tanks. https://shop.truma.net/products/truma-levelcheck Bill

Here is a picture of the plug.

Ok I’ll take a stab at it. What you are calling cold air lines are the condensate drain lines I think. I think all of our roof top units are installed and run without the air distribution box being installed on the inside of the cabin. The return air filter is held by the air distribution box. The roof top units were run while (dust producing) operations were performed in the cabin. The unfiltered air was drawn through the evaporator coil where the dust was deposited on the coil fins. Condensate forms on the evaporator coil and drips into the condensate collection receptacles on each side of the roof top unit. The water/dust mixture flows through the condensate drain lines at low velocity. The dust settles out and remains in the lines. There is white residue in my condensate drain lines also. I don’t like it either. Again, this is MY THEORY as to how that white residue got there. Bill

Back to the OPs original question. If I were in the same situation and I couldn’t get the ductwork clean I think I would replace the ductwork to the cabin louvers and seal off the hard to remove duct to the bathroom. Use a small fan to direct heat to the bathroom or a ceramic heater if plugged into 120VAC. I know it’s not ideal but it might get you through until another reason comes up where you need to open up the hard to access areas. Bill

When the bathroom door and window are closed the bathroom exhaust fan pulls air through the open heat louvers in the main cabin and out of the open heat louver in the bath. I think this is beneficial in that it keeps air moving through that duct when the heat is not being used. Otherwise, moisture laden air might remain in that heat duct along with dust and produce mold. The exhaust fan also pulls cold air from the main cabin into the bathroom when the AC is running and the bath door is closed. For these reasons and to reduce the strain on the exhaust fan I like to leave the louvers fully open. The exhaust fan is also pulling air from somewhere in the hull through the gaps in the corners of the closed cabinet door above the toilet. I like that air is being moved through the hull. A return vent high in the bathroom wall might prevent this air movement. Regarding return air when the heat is running the best solution would be to prop the bathroom door open a little. Bill

Rideandfly Bill, Thanks for the info on the kit you got. I have a pair of just the seals on order. I have watched that Valterra video several times especially the part about the seals. Please post pictures when you take yours apart. What is this you speak of: “finishing one project before you start another”? Interesting concept. Might have to try it sometime. ? Another Bill

You might be able to get more warm air to the bathroom by closing the cabin louvers a little. Bill

Well I have already hijacked my own thread so I will continue this valve discussion here anyway. Steve, this is the first thing I looked at when I first noticed the problem. The handle on the black drain on the cable outside wasn’t in as far as the handle on the grey drain so the cable hasn’t slipped at that set screw. I wonder if the seal is rolled or distorted at the bottom of the gate valve. Before I start taking the valve apart I want to have new seals on hand. Are these the seals that I need? https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T1003-9VP-Bladex-Valve-Hardware/dp/B00303XGRI Bill

Is the Barker Auto Drain the same one Oliver is offering as a option in place of the manual valve on the bathroom drains?

Rideandfly (Bill) our black tank drain valve is not closing well either. It will close if I push down on the gate while Martha is pushing in on the cable. I have put 8 ounces of Camco valve lube and water in the tank twice and slowly worked the valve but it still won’t close. KountryKamper suggested I put enough Ethylene Glycol in the drain to completely saturate the seal and let it set a few days.

Follow up: Received 4 new shades yesterday from AutoMotion.

I didn’t take pictures this time. In and out quick. Ready to get home and see my girls. Sorry we missed you roguebooks. We did see Dream Catcher and it’s owners.

At the factory for a few hours this morning. Anyone want a picture of their Oliver if parked outside?

Steve, I know there are several things different about your Oliver, but on my wife’s Oliver (#313) the handles stick out way too far when pulled to close the door. Who makes the electric valves? Is there a way to open the valves if you lose power?

Anybody done a mod where you can close the basement door while a drain valve handle is pulled? I know it’s best to only drain the tanks when there is water in them so I’m not wanting to open the valve and leave it open. I want to be able to open a valve and then close the basement door when it is raining cats and dogs and the water is pouring off the roof directly onto the open basement door. Bill

What is that mounted up high on the back of the Outlaw Oliver? Some kind of anti-tailgater device?

It was #301. From Ohio. Don’t know their forum name. Staying somewhere on the Schoodic Peninsula.

Turns out it isn’t Walter Jenkins. The owners saw our post on the Facebook Group and said it was them.

Yes. Pretty sure that was it.