mossemi

Nice work, the installation looks great. I was confused looking at the Starboard view because the stock hardware didn’t look like mine. So I finally looked at your profile and sure enough I was looking at an Elite. Thanks for allowing me my first peak under the bed of an Elite, I feel like a voyeur.😮 Mossey

One of the benefits of the 4/0 cable is that it is very hard to create a bird nest with it. And we all know how much you like bird nest.😀 The 2000 watt Xantrex inverter actually has a surge rating of 3000 watts which requires a 250 amp fuse. 4/0 cable is rated for 600 amps at 9 feet in length. Our battery to inverter cables are about 5 feet +/-. I would expect about 5% of OTT owners would ever touch the 4/0 cables other than disconnecting the battery cable for storage or removal. And while they are technically oversized, it’s another area where OTT's are overbuilt for our benefit and safety. Mossey

I’m not sure if I am interpreting 1UP's response correctly or not but I’ll give my thoughts. I believe the key to this discussion is tongue weight and not towing capacity. And I think the adapter or extender reduce the tongue weight capacity because they move the fulcrum or leverage point. Think teeter totter. The ones I remember had 3 saddles underneath the plank. And you could move the plank and change the fulcrum point to compensate for 2 different sized people. Susan quoted Jason and said the Oliver's rear receiver was rated at 100 pounds. Then Susan quoted Jordan saying the the receiver had a new recommended weight capacity of 150 pounds. Susan also said her loaded rack weight was 120 pounds. So if 1Up's engineers believe their 1.25" to 2" adapter reduces the tongue capacity of Oliver's receiver by 50% which would reduce the capacity to 75 pounds. That same thinking would apply to all receivers. The big difference is Susan's van has a 2" receiver that may be a class 2 or 3 and a class 2 receiver has a tongue capacity of 350 pounds. 2" class 3 receivers are rated at 350 to 800 pounds of tongue weight. So the vans greater tongue capacity is the reason the extender met 1UP's engineering approval. And then again, I may be totally wrong. Where is Raspy when you need him? 😃 Mossey

From the Zamp manual. The mock up looks clean. Mossey

What temperature value does the Zamp controller display during the test? Mossey

Or maybe the anti-rattle locking pin is for the bike rack to adapter connection and not for the adapter to Ollie connection. The 1UP link you posted was short on details. Good luck, Mossey

I would suggest that you obtain the dimensions of the Ollie receiver before buying the 1UP 1.25"x 2" adapter. It does not look like the anti-rattle locking pin is long enough to work with the Ollie receiver and I’m sure that is a fair percentage of the $68. This is a quick Amazon search. Mossey

Looking forward to pictures of the project. Mossey

That looks like it will begin right after the rally and since you know I have been in recovery since 1984, I assume what I won’t drink could be used as hand sanitizer while serving as a designated driver. So If 2 Ollie's were heading north on I-75 on their way to the rally, what would be considered a safe social following distance? Mossey

Sherry, I had never heard of Starboard before ADKCamper's post, but I am always interested in learning about new things or products. One of the questions I asked was how much does it cost and you answered "expensive". Ok, so far I have used 3M 5200 to attach some scrap 1"x4" PVC board to a lower hull wall to mount a battery cutoff. I have also used marine Goop to attach 1-1/2"x1/4" PVC board in the lower hull to which I mounted lights with 3M VHB mounting tape. And as previously mentioned, I mounted a piece of oak which I salvaged from some shelves I demo'd in my house and remounted the afore mentioned battery cutoff to. So with the additional information you have provided you can rest assured that I won’t be running down to Farco for a piece of Starboard as I still have lots of left over shelving and PVC board. And it’s not like I’m cheap, I just don’t like to waste money. And I can justify wasting money if pressed.😆 Thanks again Marine Queen for your expertise, Mossey PS: Marine Queen is meant as a compliment.

Have you tried any of the Truma service partners in your area? Would you care to share any details about what is not working? Mossey

We purchased a used 2017 LEII, hull #193 In January 2018. It was a standard model when we purchased it and the OTT service department converted to a twin bed for us. My wife would not have agreed to a twin model without camping in it if we had ordered new. But after one camping trip we both realized that making the bed was a major inconvenience and camping should be fun. If you haven’t tried to make a bed with one side against a wall, you should because the standard bed is against three walls. The bed area is 77" long and 80" wide and the inside of the trailer is 178" long and 80" wide not including the bath area. So the standard bed occupies about 40% of the floor plan when in the sleeping mode. And it makes access to the upper storage area’s difficult even in the table mode. So we tried sleeping on the couches/benches during our next 6 months of usage. I am 6' and Krunch claims to be 5', but she is rounding up. The benches worked fine for her and she also tried the dinette as we experimented with different options. Our final arrangement was me sleeping across the back bench and she used the street side bench. Then each morning we converted back to benches. Since we generally camp solo and didn’t need the large table, we started leaving it at home. Then we started leaving some of the cushions behind because anything we couldn’t use for sleeping and sitting was in the way. And we decided the twin bed would better suit our needs. Then we talked to the service department and we dropped the trailer off on our way to Illinois for a family reunion and picked it up on the way home 5 days later. We are very pleased with our decision. AndrewK's self conversion turned out very well and his offer to help anyone interested has benefited others, so that is another option. Mossey

That looks like an excellent product for our needs. Do you source it locally or order online? What is the cost of a 12" x 12" piece? Mossey

JD said "Thanks for the info on temp sensor, it should go on a negative stud, correct? I will fix the crappy splice " I don’t remember which post the temp sensor was on because I replaced mine with a Victron sensor when I put a BMS in. The Zamp Charge Controller manual does not specify. I do know you can tape it the the side of a battery. Mossey

Busted! That is a piece of oak, oh the horrors of it all! I am not sure which Ollie commandment we broke, but I consider myself in good company. I probably could have used some square aluminum tubing, but I am saving that for another project. And if you search for my Caframo Sirocco II fan mount you might find another piece of oak with matching grain. I had the cutoff mounted to the piece of PVC board that the positive buss is now mounted to and due to the strain the 90° turn of the 4/0 cable puts on the cutoff, I wanted something more substantial to mount the cutoff to which led to the piece of oak. And a sincere mea culpa to all Ollie purest. Mossey

I am sorry if my comments are confusing. The weep hole cover does not have anything to do with the AC drain hose/pipe. I mentioned it as a location reference point. If you open the basement door and look at the back wall you should see a white or translucent hose/pipe running vertically about where the inside of the tail light fixture would be. That is the AC drain and you can pull the floor mat back and may need to remove that section of the floor to see the exit hole. Mossey

Yes it does Nan. Look under the back street side corner and there should be a weep hole cover and then the hose. Mine has about an inch or so protruding out of the hull. I have never cleaned the drain tube, but you can try very short burst of water from a garden hose into the drain hose from the bottom. And you can remove the return air filter grate and access the upper portion of the hose as shown in the picture. FYI, although you can’t see it in the picture, the hose drains to the upper right, behind the big bolt head. Mossey

Yes, I have used it to attach hooks to the inside of the closer door and PVC boards to the inside of the lower hull. I think it is expensive and wasteful because the tubes dry out very fast. I also think the package say it is permanent. What are you going to use it for? Mossey

Yep, that’s the Zamp temp sensor and the other end is at the controller. And my fuse block has a plastic snap on cover over all 4 of those studs.Mossey

I did forget the picture, but I edited my post and added it. Yes, my cable and glands looked just like that. The 4/0 cables are a pain to route, but if you remove all of the other positive and negative cables like Overland suggested awhile back as well as the batteries, it does make working in the battery box a lot easier. If you do take the cable out you may have to remove the gland because the inside nut may not slide over the terminal lug. After I removed everything in the box, I taped the new cable gland in place in the box and worked the nut on from the inside. I could barely get my fingers on the cable gland nut between the battery box and the lower pantry wall. It just takes patience and persistence. It is easier to put a gland in without the cable in it. I do try keep battery cables the same length between batteries and the load as I think that is a best practice. So my cables are close to the same length even though the positive goes through a fuse, disconnect and terminates at a buss bar. And the negative cable goes straight to a buss bar. You may have more experience is that matter, so use your judgement. And don’t forget that the reason for some of the cable loop in the battery box is to accommodate the slide tray, so make sure the cables will fold properly before shorting it. Mossey

JD this is a heads up, My negative 4/0 cable gland had failed somewhere along the line and when I rewired my battery box I took it completely out. My cable glands are a plastic/nylon material and the clamping nut threads would no longer hold up under the strain of the 90° turn into the battery box. This is the cable gland I used for a replacement and it was large enough for the 4/0 cable and the temperature sensor wires. So it is just a idea if you run into trouble. I solve the issue of loose screw holes in the PVC board by relocating the equipment an 1/8 to a 1/4" and not reusing the same holes. Good luck, Mossey

I am sure there is a least a dozen ways to do that, but it really depends on which equipment you are using and how much trouble you want to go through. A document worked best for me before our last forum update. Our old forum search tool was not very handy, but now I don’t save topics as links any more, I just search for the subject I am looking for. I will admit to getting sidetracked sometimes, so what it’s all good stuff. Mossey

I found this picture from the Zapata Falls Campground in Google Street View. If the same person graded the campground road I would guess the access road looks as good. Make your own judgement, but it looks smooth to me. Mossey

Krunch and I went to Zapata Falls when we visited Great Sand Dunes NP&P in 2009. We were exploring Colorado by rental car and spent 3 days in the area. We drove up to the Zapata Falls parking lot and hiked up to the falls. The trail starts just past the campground road. I don’t remember the road being a problem, but I was probably driving something like a Chevy Malibu. Zapata Ranch is very close to the falls as well. It is a working ranch owned and operated by The Nature Conservancy. By the way, Lake City is 136 miles west of Zapata Falls, so maybe I’m talking about a different campground. Mossey

Is this Livy from Tampa? Mossey