Geronimo John

Roger on the newer sliding trays having double latches. Likely more new ones than older ones like ours. On the deletion of the aluminum angle: Don't know as my Ollie is on your side of the pond. But possible. But I seem to recall that the geometry of the area was such that just a bolt and nut was not doable. My guess is that for our vintage of sliding trays Horace figured it out and needed the aluminum angle to make it work. I would wager one of Art's home brews on that! On using a bolt and wing nut: I would prefer using a Rev-Nut if it will fit. One less thing to not get lost (nut), Besides when leaving Ollie for some time, I would like it taking some time to open the drawer from an anti-theft perspective. Kind of like removing the fuse from the front jack. Make hooking up a 600# tongue a PITA.... go next door to the SOB and steal that one. GJ

Owners: Mike and Carol’s “Battery Box Separation” thread well addresses the battery box structural securement to the frame and hull. My intent of this post is to re-look at the battery tay and straps and their securement. Despite our OEM straps being VERY tight, twice I found one of them had gone slack and come loose from the tray hook hole. Not good. I am starting this separate thread to focus on how to ensure that our OEM tray and batteries “stay put”. So basically, I would like to learn more about how the tray is mounted and then how to super contain our batteries in the tray. I would very much appreciate your sharing your thoughts on how the battery box embed plate and straps do their job. Some questions follow: · How is the battery box embed plate attached to the structural member below? · What’s you guess as to the dimensions of the embed plate? · Are all battery sliding tray fasteners buck-stopped by the embed plate? · I assume that the embed plate is aluminum. Can it be tapped for additional hold-down bolts. If yes, what bolt length will work best? · Can you share your DIY solution? GJ PS: As far as the tray slide coming open, I like Horace's (Hull 93 Maverick) Dec 17, 2020 idea. A couple of these would increase security and would prevent movement should the slide fail. My upgrades to his idea would be to use a Riv-Nut in place of the nut and washer. Maybe also pop rivet the aluminum angle to the tray sheet metal. Combined, less parts to get lost when doing battery checks and service. Thanks GJ

I SUSPECT that the lean out is to facilitate water drainage should a seal fail. I support your thought that the advantagee of a slight lean in would out-weigh potential negatives of a seal failure. The amount of the lean out could for sure facilitate the failure of the rivets. The support member as you have: with just one bolt (as pictured) could easily allow the top of the "stiff leg" to move out there by increasing lean and failure. Suggest adding a second bolt above the shown one to better fix (Lock in) the angle of tilt once properly adjusted. GJ

About 2 miles. Ben there done that 20 years ago. I now do a FULL bearing and brake service before each season. Hint. 🙂 GJ

Reallly good idea! Yep weight and G-forces will tend to find weak parts. At least your Litho weight is way under what the OEM's were. We now have seen frame fractures and battery boxes being damaged by trailers likelly exceeding their design limits in one way or another. Just a reminder that stiff Frames/Springs/Shocks and high tire pressures are things to avoid or at least mitigate where we can. GJ

Crazy Horse asked if by chance you have Alcon's? I told him to mind his own business. GJ

My wife and I had purchased a lightly used Jayco UDST pop-up with a single torsion axle. We completely rebuilt all the systems above the axle. We departed SLC for a month long tour along the west coast and northern tier border and back to SLC. As part of our rebuild, I had new tires and a pro inspected the torsion axle. Axle appeared good. Probem with torsion axles is they look good until they are not. Ours failed 100 miles from Reno NV on a Thursday before a 3 day holiday weekend. When they fail, they scruffed off our new tires the no time at all. No warning, on side of road, with 100 miles of nothing. No options but getting three replacement tires at a Super Walmart and scruffing them all to bare cords to get to an axle shop. Limped into Reno just before the axle shop was to close. Learned that a new torsion axle would be 7 days out. Saw they had lots of steel and welders so while waiting until Tuesday for the shop to reopen, I designed a replacement axle subframe to support an in stock Dexter 3500 axle. With annual bearing service, it is a lot easier to tell when a standard axle is going south and to leave you on the highway. Torsions....... not so easy. Hence my dislike for torsion axles. GJ

Chris: Some thoughts about the standard wet bolts vs step bolts for trailer springs: Standard bolts generally used for light duty trailer shackles using a 9/16" diameter shackle bolts without a zirk fitting. Step Wet Bolts Bolts are used for heavy duty axles where the step is necessary for proper function with bronze bushings. I believe that all of the OTT trailers, and the most other heavy duty trailer spring shackle bolts are step bolts. Yet Alcon is using a standard bolts. This got me wondering about the topic. Wet bolts sandwich the springs between the subframe mounting "tabs". With the step, the step bolts mechanically limit the clamping of the springs. The result is that the bolt head is prevented from turning in the mounting tabs by two means. First, the splines. Secondly the friction on the tabs by the step and the nut itseld. As a result of the design, the spring always has some clearance allowing it to more freely rotate relative to the bolt center line. My concerns are: The Alcans could easily be over tightened thereby forcing the mounting tangs against the springs. This process would result in the spring binding in the tabs and facilitate the stripping of the bolt splines thus creating a "spun bolt". A spun bolt will act as a crude bearing causing the mounting tab holes to quickly wear. And the repair is rather difficult. Been there myself. Use of Nylock's in high torque situtations often results in the Nylock becoming impossible to remove with hand tools. To do so, one will likely want access to air tools or electric grinders to literally cut the nut off. Trying to do so with a hack saw and punch will be tedious, especially it appears that their bolts are very high quality grade 8. As such, failure of a wet bolt will complicate life a lot. The only way I would want standard bolts for a splined application is if the bolt head head was fixed using a Hex Capture Washer. After two years of working with OTT Jason, this approach ended up being the only acceptable long term repair for a spun bolt spline. DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx What are your thoughts about Alcon not using step bolts on our springs? Thanks GJ

My likes and not likes: LIKES: Removeable floor for outside cleaning. Big size refrigerator 6'8" ceilings Ducted AC/Heat Shower (Dry Bath) NOT LIKES: Rubber torsion axles. This is a deal breaker for us. Had one on a Jayco, will NEVER have another) Low sewer connection Hose storage (Where would you put the 90 degree connection and all the other little things we carry in ours?) Front window (Rock Magnet) Front upper window (Heat Load and future leak potential) Upper cabinet doors (Prefer OTT's options) Convection/Micro at knee height Pantry (As where is it?) TV (Placement on side of trailer. Not viewable from anywhere as displayed in video Dry Shower (Takes up too much space needed for storage) For us prefer OTT's design Black mold looking accents in cabinet tops Several storage areas should have a means for installing shelving Overall, for a first production model, I think their design decisions will appeal to many first time owners. But their design needs some adjustments, just as what The Olliver's did with their first OE... make some and put them out for review and upgrade suggestions. In a few years they would have a trailer that could compete head to head. But with plans of smaller and larger versions, frankly it does not appear that such a slow rollout and improvement of this model is their game plan. In a nut shell: I would not swap my 2018 OTT OE2 for a brand new one of theirs. GJ

I have since updated the post. The 5" increase is from my Houghton A/C height. JD's remeasured and it is 3.25" higher than the Dometic Penguin II. In our case, there is no way I could back it into our storage area. Especially since there is a ramp at the entrance and that kicks the area behind Ollie's axles up even further. So if height of your storage areas is close, it would be wise to double check. GJ

OH MY! I'll keep a better eye on the grandkiddo's for sure now. Maybe raise them all when they are around.

Once a year I would spend an hour in Houston and Dallas to remove the exterior screen and motor/fan to get at both sides of the condensor to get the big stuff. Then gently vaccum pollen and smaller stuff from both sides. Then to use a coil cleaner, and light water pressure to rinse from the inside all the caustic cleaner and any fines. In Salt Lake Citu UT, I only needed to vaccuum the outside and gently rinse. Since we only use the Ollie A/C sparingly, I have not popped the hatch yet. Need to add that to my "Do Lis" for this summer. Thanks for the reminder!

Yep. It is sweet for sure. As stated. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ YES! As stated in our combined list of limitations (Not needing a Heat Pump, Height and Very High Temperatures), I agree. In fact I'll take it a step further. Within those limitations, I would also state "Even for those willing and able to modify the Houghtons", this is a great unit to strongly consider." Then to take it a step further I would add "And at a much more realistic cost!" +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ JD: As far as using a hose to spray thru the condenser coil to try to flow the gunk out the weeps.... You can try it. But it certainly is not effective in all of the places I have lived and maintained. That is why the vast majority of outside coils use an updraft design. It leaves the gunk on the outside of the coils where it can be gently cleaned. General design rule is to provide the Technicians access to both sides of both coils. This is esssential for proper maintenance.... that is necessary to maintain the unit's efficiency. So I stand firm that it is at least a NI, and for a most a PP. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Ok, you asked for it! 🙂 As a ME, there is a lot to like about this unit. And just a few things to wish for. But the two I identified above are not one of them. In the video he mentioned the capability to hard wire a T-stat. The water wheel disbursal of the condensate appears to minimize the amount of liquid going over the side. That is close enough to strike out that wish item. Now for my video take away notes: (G = Good, NI = Not Ideal, PP = Potential Problem for some owners) PP Some owners have height restrictions. This unit "stands tall" at about 14", a good 5" taller than our OEM Dometic Houghton. A hard deal killer for some owners for sure. Also it will have a greater challenge with wind drag at highway speeds and lower hanging limbs and bridges. But if you follow an 18 wheeler box trailer, they will clear all that out of your way. G Dual fans G Squirrel cage supply air fan G All copper coils and tubing G Brushless motors G Cap tube control system. EXCELLENT. G Shroud not necessary to test run the unit. Nice for those doing maintenance. NI Access to condenser coil for cleaning will require disassembly of condenser coil housing. Not so good for maintenance. PP for those who need a/c where tree and other floating gunk is common. NI Outstanding efficiency at lower setting’s simply due to oversizing the condenser coil and very efficient fan motors. But there it is only putting out about 5,000 BTU's of cooling. Good at high settings. NI Per the video graphic, the high setting of the unit requires 1337 watts of "real power" and another 294 watts of apparent power for a total generator load of 1631 watts. This is still better than what non variable speed units can do and is low enough that most quality 2,000 watt generators can accommodate for this unit as it has a near zero surge on start-up or compressor cycling. G The medium and low settings of the unit have higher efficiency ratings and less impact on your power supply. In fact, they are OUTSTANDING PP The unit on max setting only produces 9,000 BUT of a/c. On a max sun, 100+ degree F Day where we often camp, that low output will take more time to cool down an OE2. Would suggest starting the unit on max an hour before arriving at your camp site. Your spousal unit will appreciate you're thinking ahead. If an owner does not have a problem with that 14" height and does not camp in extreme heat and sun locations, I think that this tested unit is an excellent choice. But as exterior temp increases beyond what 9,000 BTU can handle it would be a challenge. For many owners just starting the cool down before occupancy, it would mitigate the lower capacity. With a larger compressor and minor mods to increase the capability it would become an outstanding choice even for me! GJ

With an internal drain and remote thermistor and they would OWN the RV a/c world. GJ

Back in December Dragon Fly took a torpedo. Sadly Dragon Fly did not appear to take any effection efforts to get ahead of the situtation. Now it looks like Will sent them a full spread of them. In light of zero response, their reputation is going down with the ship.....

Patriot/CRM: Thanks for posting Will's latest video. Pretty much substantiates my claim of melting plastic as a source. But it does not explain all the other issues he is pointing out. Sad and potentially dangeros situtation. If you have BB's, it is a must see video. GJ

Wow. Going to reassess my BB's now. GJ

JD: More than a few owners have experienced window leakage onto bedding. None of us are tip-toeing around after having to spend a lot of time with wet bedding. The serious consequences can't be ignored. We are pushing the limits on ideas to stop the leaks. But we stop short of your 3,000 PSI pressure washer or spending thousands to acquire the newly designed windows that give less natural ventilation. I am thrilled that your trailer can withstand any storm or pressure washer without leakage. I can affirm that our trailer's can not withstand any storm, and most of us would shy away from letting you clean our trailers with your great machine. However, if you would please teleport it to Hawaii, I would LOVE to borrow it for about a week! I promise to return it shortly thereafter. 🙂 John

Thanks for the flowers. Just for clarity my post of "Use 40 PSI on Paved Roads and 25 - 30 off road" is for the trailer tire pressures on/off good paved roads. In reality, I do go off road on occarions where the road is graded and pretty well maintained with tires at 40 PSI. But usually I am going less than 20 MPH. If I need to go real slow, or go into 4WD in locker engaged with low range and gears 1 or 2, then I for sure air down to the 25 PSI. Easy to do with my 20V Dewaly air compressor.

Strange that your spare is not the exact tire as your 4 on roat Ollie Tires. Likely your 2017 had replacements along the way. Ditto with mine.

Cool App. thanks for the post. For a newer owner to complete, from my Ollie Keeper Info document, below is the tire info for the 2019 (16" rims) for half the info needed to see what the delta in height will be: Factory Tires: Michelin Defender LTX MS2, LT225/75R16 Light Truck 80 PSI 10 Ply Rated, 10-Ply E Rated, Speed Rating R (106 MPH) Use cold 40 PSI on Paved Roads. 25 - 30 PSI off road Load Index =115R Load Rating 2680# Max Press. Cold: 80 PSI. GJ

Quite an improvement! Your 5.9 turbo Cummins can be "tuned with quite a few mods" to rev beyond 4000 RPM and giving over 900 horsepower. I would not recommend it, but pulling your almost 7.000 pound Ollie going upgrade, you would likely smoke my EcoBoost naked. GJ

Sorry I'm a bit behind on this thread. On my 2019 F-150, the 2" Anderson Receiver with 2 5/16" ball is slightly smaller than the Ford receiver. The hitch pin/hole are right sized. So the "Slack" I see when jacking my Ollie up to undo Anderson chains is actually a rotational arch with the hitch pin and hole acting as a swing point. Not slop back and forth. This arch is actually beneficial as when I see it swing those few degrees, I know it's time to stop lifting. GJ

It's been several years ago so a bit foggy. But I recall that our blinds were a bit defective and OTT sent us some new ones with clips. I reused the old four clips and added two extra for grins. Put the other two in my "Junk and Precious Stuff drawer in the kitchen. Six clips ended my falling blinds syndone. GJ