Geronimo John

I was thinking about my pending annual service for the Dexter 3500 OEM axles. Later the next day while looking at the 5200 specifications, I came across two Dexter related videos of note from "The TrailerSmith". Under my father's watchful eye, I did my first trailer axle service sixty years ago. Have had many trailers in my life and just thought I knew something about troubleshooting this process. These two videos pretty much dispelled those notions. I now eagerly look forward to doing a full teardown and super clean and lube mine in July. The first video very well addresses their bearing and seal service: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uSou1kasBc The next video looks at the Auto Adjust system and gives some good tips worth note. It also explains why I am having to run my F-150 brake controller so high. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUqvxovZ164 I hope you find the videos interesting. If you do, kindly subscribe to his channel. GJ

JD: Thanks on the axle replacement info. On the brake controller: The last time I checked it, it was pumping right at 3 amps to each of the four disks. Easy to measure at each wheel with a driver helper up front. Or set the clamp on meter to record max amp reading and make trips forward to mash the brake. Regardless I'll check the amps again in July when I'm back your direction. So less likely a controller issue. When I'm on long downhill grades I routinely check the drum temperatures with an IR gun. They are all pretty consistent. The brakes are working but not as hard as I would like to see. It may just be adjustment. Or..... I am thinking it is more of a friction issue in the drums. Getting the power but not turning it into new OEM level movement and force against the drums. I will be doing my annual axle bearing service in July. I'll also be looking at the drum brake linings, I likely will fully pull apart the Dexter brakes. Then Brake Clean the heck out of everything, and brake lube the pivot and slide points of the actuators. Over the past 7 seasons I think they likely have gone dry or sticky. And of course snugly adjust the brake linings to optimum. Then the acid test is to do a parking lot skid mark test at about 15 to 20 MPH. No black marks with the controller set on at max controller.... Time for a more serious actions... possibly even the consideration of a trip to ALCON after our camping in AZ. GJ

JD: Looks like more than a few of us are also on the same page that an important advantage the 3500 to 5200 upgrade is braking performance. I'm running 8.5 or 9 on my F-150 factory controller and would like to be able to back that back a bunch. Hopefully that would leave some reserve capability to be had in an "emergency situation" towards the end of a long steep down grade run. I have on rare occasion wished for "More power to the reverse thrusters Scotty" or a Super Duty with engine braking diesel.! Questions for the Pro's about the 3500 to 5200 conversion: : Can someone share (By PM is necessary) the Labor and Materials "Out The Door" for the two axles upgrade? Is it logical to provide ALCAN with Timkin bearings to install in the 5200's before swapping? Will the 5200 upgrade accommodate our larger rims and tires? Has anyone cost shopped ALCAN vs OTT Factory upgrade? GJ

Barker did the welding. Problem could be there. OTT likely drilled the holes in their bracket. Problem could be there. .....Leaving you holding the bag. Seems like a joint discussion is between them. Regardless IF OTT Manufacturing has spare in stock, which they sometimes do not, they could ship you one. If not then they would have to send Barker the bracket, if they have a bracket in stock. Which last year they did not have as well. .......In which case you are still holding the bag. So ... OTT oh so rarely does not make things right. If there is going to be a delay, I would consider shimming up the hatch with a ring of 3/4" X 1" trim. If you have a foam pad over the OEM cushions you would not notice the difference while OTT/Barker sort it out. 🙂

Chris: Thanks for starting this great post, and video! One suggestion that I do may help during wanding efforts: Raise or lower your front jack to assist the water flow to the next weep. Gravity is a wonderful thing... occasionally anyway. For this purpose it is. Certainly made my window weep process faster. Also having some really long pipe cleaners to push and scrub in places you can't get to. GJ PS: Recommend not going too steep as water will pass by one drain hole and could over flow inside at the low end. Figured that one out all by my self! Sadly!

Craig: I got 40K Miles out of our OEM Monroe shocks. All four of them were fine. With tires off they are a snap to change, I would do so when doing the springs. But a lot of others have gotten a lot less miles on their OEM Monroe shocks. I have no experience with the Bulldog's, but from this forum it appears they are doing well. How well vs. cost? How about it fellow "Bull Doggers" Any shocking experiences so far? 🙂 GH

First, PLEASE replace your CO alarm if you have any doubts. Especially for a trailer that has an ammonia absorption refer. For these class of machines, the front of the refer cabinet must be sealed from the cabin, regardless of the brand. Aluminum foil tape is what I would use. I personally believe that running a condenser fan 24/7 to help scavenge air from the back of the refer and out the top outside vent is a good idea. It will tend to draw in good air at the bottom and exhaust whatever is in there out the top. In the process it may put this area under a slight negative pressure... further helping keep the family safe inside the trailer. GJ

Very wise! Absolutely possible. Barker has built thousands of jacks using the OTT bracket. They would have a jig fixture to weld the OTT provided bracket to the jack. So this could be a new guy mistake. Frankly it is time for you to just remove BOTH rear jacks from the trailer and bench inspect them side to side. Photo what you find. Doing so gives you the facts. It also puts you in a position to say it is "Obvious" and also if It is a Barker or OTT issue. Then you can politely share your results. It would also be a great opportunity to figure out how//if you have a bent jack leg. Once again JD is on point.... With an intact and relatively straight jack leg, I think you would either dig a deep hole below the jack to remove the leg down. Or likely easier, remove the jack foot and pull the jack leg up and out. Also, as JD mentioned, use Lock-Tite Blue on the jack foot bolt when reassembling. I have found that with facts, both OTT and Barker are stand up and make it right teams. Get them the facts and I'll wager you get a new jack and bracket free even though it is out of warranty. Why? That would be the stand up make it right answer. GJ

The below is in response to the bent jack. Nothing to do with the rubbing issue. These jacks are really strong, but they do bend. Especially when they are fully extended and moved with the foot loaded. I have seen a lot worse tilt and they continue to be just fine. Sadly, this likely is not an OTT issue, but an owner / operator caused OOPs.

With no response yet from OTT, I now suggest that you call Barker Mfg. They have been hyper responsive in the past. I know of no way to adjust the jack plate stop point (When it clicks on the clutch). It is a fixed point based on the assembly length. The stack up height of the jacks is a function of the jack length (Likely variable for different brands, and the OTT bracket thickness. My guess is that you somehow got the wrong length of the Barker Jack. Sending them your great pictures will be very informative. GJ PS: Since the jack leg length is easily confused, I also suspect that the root cause is the same as that for the Bulldog Coupler OOPs....Likely wrong part installed. There is a possibilty that the OE1 and OE2 have different jack leg lengths. Either way getting Barker into this dog tussle is a good idea.

Really cool beans!

That's a great solution. Several years ago I wish I had thought of it. At my vintage it is rare that I am pulling Ollie at night. That opens up another solution. I tapped the attic parking lights wire for the camera power. When I turn on the parking lights, the camera comes alive. When backing, or when I want to see behind me, I turn on the running lights. Saves a lot of camera run hours, and hopefully extends it's life a bit. GJ

Rock Solid. Wish I had the same with disk brakes too! GJ

On 30 May 2025 at 9:15 AM I spoke with Tim at ALCON. He responded with shipping weights. So I asked him to actually weigh the naked springs we are using. Here is his verified statement: 4 Leaf 2,000 Pound Rated Spring with 19 1/2 pounds of USA made Steel 5 Leaf 2,700 Pound Rated Spring with 23 pounds of USA made Steel As I stated a couple of times above, the ALCON 4 leaf clearly has the Rating (2,000#), weight (19#+), and compliance (4-Leaf) to make it very well suited for use by most OTT owners. As such, it is my recommendation for likely +/- 85% of the fleet to use as replacements. If price point is of concern, then the Dexter PR4 springs fits the bill as well. Also as indicated in a few places in this mile long thread, if you are heavy and/or do a lot of boondocking with questionable roads/paths or hiking trails with your Ollie, you are part of the +/- 15% of the fleet and should consider the USA made Alcon 5 leaf spring. GJ

More steel means a spring is likely to be able to handle stress longer for a given design. The weight of the spring design can be found in it's specifications. Under no circumstances would I replace my springs with a lightweight version. (Edit: under 16 pounds) Where made is a different discussion entirely.

Is it stashed inside the hull or outside the hull? Thinking the inter hull insulation would act as a faraday cage. If they are weather proof, maybe behind the AC on the roof. Your thoughts on placemenet?

I would be very leery of sway with such a design. Our OE2's have the tires well aft. They provide a long radius arm from the ball thereby contributing to the no sway attribute that we enjoy. The two pictures that show the front of the trailer are different. The Show version has no propane tanks, but does show a very light weight frame. Not strong like OTT uses. The mountain man pic shows a tank cover similar to OTT's. This with low ground clearance would in my minds eye is clearly an on paved roads rig only. It would seem that for A/C they are using a split system with possibly under hull condenser air transfer. That would have lots of advantages. Add to the clean roof direct applied solar panels and Litho's would be really nice. Interesting design with lots to like if you are only a "road runner". GJ

More steel means a spring is likely to be able to handle stress longer for a given design. The weight of the spring design can be found in it's specifications. Where made is a different discussion entirely.

what is the weight of their 4 leaf spring? Needs to be at least 17 pounds. GJ

As JD mentioned, when I purchased my BBQ, i did the low pressure mod back in 2018. I also purchased a 10' hose. I also recommend at least that if not longer. Just gives you more options. GJ

The video says it uses liquid propane. That's a tilt unless there is a conversion kit to feed it low pressure propane gas. Hopefully the video is not accurate of what it really is fed. GJ

Ditto to the above post. With 17 pounds of steel?

Both the ALCON and Dexter versions of the 4 leaf springs likely would have the same 11 pound weight. I would be leery in using either despite the possible advantage of better quality control in the ALCON's. I am of the belief that 11 pounds of spring is not enough. Now if the ALCON guys would make a four leaf with 17 pounds of steel, that would be a WINNER that I would strongly support. It would have enough steel for durability and the compliance of a four leaf with the quality control appropriate for our use. That would be worth asking them to do.

Mountainman: That would not be from the torsion of the spring packs, but more likely from worn shackles/links. Glad you are happy with your purchase. GJ

This is serious. Recommend an immediate call to Jason and Team! GJ