Geronimo John

The way springs are rated does not appear to be consistent between all manufacturers. Especially those of another country. So it makes theoretical cross-manufacturer comparisons of their performance of non-like specified products a SWAG at best. I think it logical that a 5 leaf spring and a 4 leaf spring by the same manufacture, both having the same rating, will have different performance attributes. Add in using different makers and designs it gets complicated. And that is the problem we have with the Dexter 4 leaf. It's rating method is (sadly) not the same as the US custom made ones are rated. So stating as fact certain % increases for different springs made by different firms in different countries using different rating systems is another SWAG. I agree that the 2400# spring made to the ALCON rating standard would be insanely stiff on our OE2. We also can agree that the rating of the Dexter PR4B rating is under designed for our OE2's as they are failing. So, we likely the 2400# PB4 spring rating, of the same family by the same Chinese firm.... will also be ........exaggerated. Fortunately Mountainman 198 consulted with recognized experts on the topic. With their recommendation, and also field testing mostly from Art, the ALCAN 2,000 spring appears to be the rating we need. So, per ALCAN: The 1750# spring is 250 pounds under rated for our use. % Under Rated = (2,000 - 1750)/2000 = 12.5%, So, the 2400# spring is likely as well. So the ALCAN rating for this spring would be: 2400 less 12.5% = 2100 pounds. When we travel, the F/G/B tanks weight can easily be somewhere in a 300 to 600# range. When compared to the net delta between the ALCAN vs. Dexter China rating of the two springs of just 100 pounds... it's seems to me to be somewhat of a moot discussion for spring ratings. I have more than once stated that I believe that the Alcan is a better spring... at a steep price. If I were 20 years younger, my perspective may be different. But at my vintage I do not believe the PB4 Dexter's will fail in my lifetime. If they do, I will roger up on our post! So when we get to meet (hopefully this summer), we can ask Art to drag is around and we can A/B the two springs both on the road and off. My gut says the fake 2400's will be better on road and the real Alcan's 2000's will be better off road. And that has to do with spring rates. Which we can defer if you like. When we are done, I'm buying the beer! And it has to meet Art's standards! GJ Does iPhone have a vertical acceleration app?

I have spoken to three Dexter Tech's in the past month. One of them at great length. I have relayed that we have documented 17 incident cases where our Dexter PR4B 1750 double eye springs on our 6,000 pound OTT LE2 appear to have failed prematurely. One of their Tech's gave me a from the heart an honest (I believe) response. The Tech stated that Configuration 6339056 springs are under specification for a 6,000# RV trailer that is always loaded and being used as we do ours. The Tech said we need a heavier spring. This is exactly what ALCAN and others have stated as well. It did not take the Tech but a few minutes to confirm that their 2400 lb 4 leaf PR4 spring is a much better choice for our application. The PR4B springs weigh 11 #. The PR4' springs weigh 17#. Dimensionally they are the same lengths, but the PR4's are bit thicker due to the thicker metal used. For installation purposes, they are a Dexter exact match. Not including taxes and shipping, the costs for an OE2 tandem axle set of springs, U-bolts, nuts and bronze bushings from the two sources we now can choose from are: ALCAN $671.20 (From MaxBurner) (Custom HD, 5 Leaf 18# Springs) Dexter $360.52 (Dexter Quote) (BP4 Leaf, 17#, 2400 # Rating Springs) I am hoping that other owners will consult their alternate spring sources and advise accordingly. More options is good for all of us. My digestion of all 12 pages of this thread include: I am of the opinion that use of the PRB4 springs for our trailers was a mistake. I encourage OTT to advise us of what their findings were on this topic. That the ALCAN products are clearly superior to the Dexter Chinese products. But when I consider that I have run well over a dozen Dexter axles in my 50 years of towing, many of which have Chinese springs, and never with a failure, maybe just maybe they all are not "crap" as some of us first suggested. But rather in this case, they were under specified in the first place. If you buy that analysis, then the logical conclusion is that depending on how your use your trailer, your axle springs are at risk of failure. But then, everything in life is as well. For me, it's Just a matter of risk/benefit/cost analysis at this point. For my case, I'm going with the Dexter PR4 replacements. GJ

Art: Did you intend on saying "Including Shipping". John

Attached is a DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair document mentioned above: DIY - Dexter EZ-Flex Center Bolt Spline Repair (20 APR 2024).docx

The key issue is: With the splines worn off, OTT will certainly know the parts. But they do not have an "Official" solution to fix the spun splines problem. Lots of forum discussion of this topic. The root cause is likely some one tried to torque the bolts from the head end or it could have been done when manufactured. BUT, if it had been done when made, you would have seen the EZ flex Center Bolt Failure (As in walking out of it's hole) in the first season of use.... like mine did. The EZ flex bolt spline solution took me three years to figure out. And it has worked fine. Below is my EZ flex solution I posted several years ago. I'll find my DIY process summary and post it tomorrow. GJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ EZ-Flex Kit: Oliver uses the K71-653-00 Dexter EZ Flex kit. (8,500 Capacity Version installed) EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO CHECK: If OTT was not using EZ flex devices on the vintage of your trailer, there is a possibility that your "Center Bolt" does not have splines on the nut end. Another possible is that if it did have splines, that they were damaged by tightening the bolt/nut from the bolt side. This will spin out those splines. The splines are absolutely essential for "Fixing" (As in prevention of rotation) of the bolt head. IF this is the case, it is essential that you "FIX" your bolt head. This is a life safety issue that has scared the XXX out of myself twice and two other owners that have been documented. There are a few ways to fix the bolt. Using one of these is one of those solutions. Search the forum for other solutions if you like. I did for the better part of three years, and did not find any alternatives that met my safety and effectiveness concerns. GJ Center Bolt Capture Washer Source: Barnes 4WD (828) 551-7616

If it hold water, then their design would have challenges. My concern with this one... Is that it has a lot of moving parts and pieces = high maintenance starting the day after the warranty expires..... I'm still holding out on the flexible direct adhered panels... except for the heat issue on fiberglass. GJ

For sure us too! ++++++++++++++++++++ If I am reading that grease inhibits movement, that would not be the case. For the Bulldog and the Anderson ball, I give both a short spritz from some white lithium grease aerosol. When I get to the next stop, I wipe out the Bulldog and wipe off the Anderson ball. The first is to help keep the Bulldog clean. The latter is to help keep my jeans or leg clean. +++++++++++++++++++ One more safety must when on any slope of a camp site: PLEASE remember to have your TV in Park and Parking Brake Set, and most importantly always keep at least one of your safety chains attached until AFTER you have unhooked and leveled her. If you have any problem at all, she will not be going far. GJ

I had no idea. Yep you are right! I'm not even going to ask how many butyl tapes there are. Nope, not me..... GJ

I contacted RougeRV about their solar panels. Ryoma's responses to my questions were: A: The tape of this solar panel is mainly made of butyl rubber. We will sell this tape separately in the near future. B: 3M VHB does not seem to be stable enough to fix the solar panel frame to the car roof. C. We do not recommend excessive longitudinal bending >15°. D, It has 12 bypass diodes which have less impact on partial occlusion for partial sun/shade use. E. Its working environment range is -45℉-185℉. There is such a risk if it exceeds or reaches the critical maximum temperature. Basically they shot down my hope of a full coverage solar panel on our OE2 roof space from the max fan forward to the antenna and side to side to our awning mounts. Also using 3M VHB tape to install. So, back to this layout.

I have the same knowledge deficit! Glad you asked. GJ

The answer is on your axle decal. We now know of two sources for our axle configuration number. As posted above, the first one is Nuera Trans, and now we add Tex Trail. If the specifications were different between the two, they would have different configuration numbers. You will want to contact TexTrail for your build sheet, and then verify the numbers against your axle measurements if you can. GJ

Nice ride Max!

Several OTT owners have removed their OEM front aluminum storage box in favor of a larger enclosed one. Lkely one of them would be glad to offer to sell theirs at a reasonable cost plus shipping. GJ

Steve: Again you are providing a gold mine if great info. THANK YOU! So, with twin cast in place conduit runs, am I correct in thinking that as shown in the above "N9" picture: The left conduit (Street side) is provided for the pre-wired solar system feeds to the attic. The right one,(Curb Side) that runs from the front closet area to the attic feeds attic area miscellaneous electrical needs. I will for sure be up top this summer looking for that dimple. I seem to recall seeing it and wonder "What's dat for?" If so, it marks the "X" on the spot for buried treasure. Made my day! GJ

Both of your above statements jive with what I understood from my Ollie pick up in 2018. Can you enlighten me on WHERE the #6 cable(s) are located below the roof? That is the key info I am seeking. Thank you so very much.

??? At this point I am just trying to get my arms around how to connect future solar lay flat panels and the challenges that it will bring. The other one is the heat issue. In the "Good Ole Days" we would just lay down an asbestos blanket and problem solved. Sure wish I could find some of that in an old warehouse shelf. Handled with knowledge and safety equipment, it is no where near the hazard many people assume. And I am not aware of any replacement that even comes close to it's heat stopping abilities. GJ

You all have convinced me of the 3M VHB mounting approach. I really don't want any more holes in Ollie if possible. If required, small is best. My trailer is supposed to be pre-wired for solar. Is there any documentation as to what and where the connection points are? If not how did you bring the solar panel wiring into Ollie? GJ

Yea my bad. Was cleaning out my unread notifications and failed to check the date. Hope he is still lurking around. Handy guy for sure! GJ

Trainman: Good idea on blowing out the assembly for plastic shards removal. Also, please update both your signature line and profile to include you hull number. Thanks. Imelda! Good post. Thank you. "Slowly over an hour": What were your thoughts for the slow injection process? I was thinking of just disconnecting the hose and dunk it and the faucet head into a small bucket of vinegar? But then you are using industrial strength vinegar..... All: FYI COSTCO also sells 1.3 gallon jugs of 5% Vinegar. But it's no where as strong as Imelda's 30% cleaning and industrial vinegar. The PH scale is not linear! The acetic acid in the industrial version literally will eat many metals. If using this for decalcification the mixing ratios are drastically different than the 50/50 generally posted for run of the mill COSTCO or other commercial grocery store brands. The 30% stuff will blind immediately and burn as well. No kidding here. Specifically per OSHA: "This material is considered hazardous by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). SIGNAL WORD: DANGER GHS HAZARD PICTOGRAMS: Hazard Statements: Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Precautionary Statements: Do not breathe mists, vapors, spray." GJ .

I like the Nova Kool R5810. Has a larger freezer and other benefits. Ken (Mountain Oliver) installed one and I put together with his ideas and edits the attached DYI guide for install. There is a good amount of info here in the forum threads as well. GJ Nova Kool R5810 Installation (7 MARCH 2023 Version).docx NOTE:: I edited the attachment to correct several typos and some minor clarifications. No significant changes otherwise.

Long time ago, John D. stated that he would not go beyond 15,000 miles on the OEM Dexter bearings. I asked how long with annual service the replacement Timken's would likely run and i recall 60,000 miles. For sure we get what we pay for..... GJ

Super easy fix. Have added this simple DIY fix to my summer list. "Another One Beats The Dust!" Gj

Lucky guy. You can still see the buttons on that micro remote................

Thanks Bill. I had missed it by speed reading while looking at his excellent pictures. Every one of them are perfect. What they highlighted to me (beyond the message of fixing the likely vent problem) is just how much dust my Ollie has between the hulls where the majority of our MEP resides. it certainly did not come from the factory that way. Likely the dust is from the air vents for the curb side and lots of dusty camping roads. It can't be good for the MEP systems. Looking forward to having to replaced the Dometic absorption refrigerator and sealing up the refer vents. That should help on the dust issue. Left would be the Suburban furnace grill used to provide cooling and combustion air to the furnace. Maybe a bolder catcher filter there. Plus about three days with a strong vacuum with 20 feet of hose. GJ

Brilliant!