Geronimo John

The key issue is: With the splines worn off, OTT will certainly know the parts. But they do not have an "Official" solution to fix the spun splines problem. Lots of forum discussion of this topic. The root cause is likely some one tried to torque the bolts from the head end or it could have been done when manufactured. BUT, if it had been done when made, you would have seen the EZ flex Center Bolt Failure (As in walking out of it's hole) in the first season of use.... like mine did. The EZ flex bolt spline solution took me three years to figure out. And it has worked fine. Below is my EZ flex solution I posted several years ago. I'll find my DIY process summary and post it tomorrow. GJ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++ EZ-Flex Kit: Oliver uses the K71-653-00 Dexter EZ Flex kit. (8,500 Capacity Version installed) EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO CHECK: If OTT was not using EZ flex devices on the vintage of your trailer, there is a possibility that your "Center Bolt" does not have splines on the nut end. Another possible is that if it did have splines, that they were damaged by tightening the bolt/nut from the bolt side. This will spin out those splines. The splines are absolutely essential for "Fixing" (As in prevention of rotation) of the bolt head. IF this is the case, it is essential that you "FIX" your bolt head. This is a life safety issue that has scared the XXX out of myself twice and two other owners that have been documented. There are a few ways to fix the bolt. Using one of these is one of those solutions. Search the forum for other solutions if you like. I did for the better part of three years, and did not find any alternatives that met my safety and effectiveness concerns. GJ Center Bolt Capture Washer Source: Barnes 4WD (828) 551-7616

If it hold water, then their design would have challenges. My concern with this one... Is that it has a lot of moving parts and pieces = high maintenance starting the day after the warranty expires..... I'm still holding out on the flexible direct adhered panels... except for the heat issue on fiberglass. GJ

For sure us too! ++++++++++++++++++++ If I am reading that grease inhibits movement, that would not be the case. For the Bulldog and the Anderson ball, I give both a short spritz from some white lithium grease aerosol. When I get to the next stop, I wipe out the Bulldog and wipe off the Anderson ball. The first is to help keep the Bulldog clean. The latter is to help keep my jeans or leg clean. +++++++++++++++++++ One more safety must when on any slope of a camp site: PLEASE remember to have your TV in Park and Parking Brake Set, and most importantly always keep at least one of your safety chains attached until AFTER you have unhooked and leveled her. If you have any problem at all, she will not be going far. GJ

I had no idea. Yep you are right! I'm not even going to ask how many butyl tapes there are. Nope, not me..... GJ

I contacted RougeRV about their solar panels. Ryoma's responses to my questions were: A: The tape of this solar panel is mainly made of butyl rubber. We will sell this tape separately in the near future. B: 3M VHB does not seem to be stable enough to fix the solar panel frame to the car roof. C. We do not recommend excessive longitudinal bending >15°. D, It has 12 bypass diodes which have less impact on partial occlusion for partial sun/shade use. E. Its working environment range is -45℉-185℉. There is such a risk if it exceeds or reaches the critical maximum temperature. Basically they shot down my hope of a full coverage solar panel on our OE2 roof space from the max fan forward to the antenna and side to side to our awning mounts. Also using 3M VHB tape to install. So, back to this layout.

I have the same knowledge deficit! Glad you asked. GJ

The answer is on your axle decal. We now know of two sources for our axle configuration number. As posted above, the first one is Nuera Trans, and now we add Tex Trail. If the specifications were different between the two, they would have different configuration numbers. You will want to contact TexTrail for your build sheet, and then verify the numbers against your axle measurements if you can. GJ

Nice ride Max!

Several OTT owners have removed their OEM front aluminum storage box in favor of a larger enclosed one. Lkely one of them would be glad to offer to sell theirs at a reasonable cost plus shipping. GJ

Steve: Again you are providing a gold mine if great info. THANK YOU! So, with twin cast in place conduit runs, am I correct in thinking that as shown in the above "N9" picture: The left conduit (Street side) is provided for the pre-wired solar system feeds to the attic. The right one,(Curb Side) that runs from the front closet area to the attic feeds attic area miscellaneous electrical needs. I will for sure be up top this summer looking for that dimple. I seem to recall seeing it and wonder "What's dat for?" If so, it marks the "X" on the spot for buried treasure. Made my day! GJ

Both of your above statements jive with what I understood from my Ollie pick up in 2018. Can you enlighten me on WHERE the #6 cable(s) are located below the roof? That is the key info I am seeking. Thank you so very much.

??? At this point I am just trying to get my arms around how to connect future solar lay flat panels and the challenges that it will bring. The other one is the heat issue. In the "Good Ole Days" we would just lay down an asbestos blanket and problem solved. Sure wish I could find some of that in an old warehouse shelf. Handled with knowledge and safety equipment, it is no where near the hazard many people assume. And I am not aware of any replacement that even comes close to it's heat stopping abilities. GJ

You all have convinced me of the 3M VHB mounting approach. I really don't want any more holes in Ollie if possible. If required, small is best. My trailer is supposed to be pre-wired for solar. Is there any documentation as to what and where the connection points are? If not how did you bring the solar panel wiring into Ollie? GJ

Yea my bad. Was cleaning out my unread notifications and failed to check the date. Hope he is still lurking around. Handy guy for sure! GJ

Trainman: Good idea on blowing out the assembly for plastic shards removal. Also, please update both your signature line and profile to include you hull number. Thanks. Imelda! Good post. Thank you. "Slowly over an hour": What were your thoughts for the slow injection process? I was thinking of just disconnecting the hose and dunk it and the faucet head into a small bucket of vinegar? But then you are using industrial strength vinegar..... All: FYI COSTCO also sells 1.3 gallon jugs of 5% Vinegar. But it's no where as strong as Imelda's 30% cleaning and industrial vinegar. The PH scale is not linear! The acetic acid in the industrial version literally will eat many metals. If using this for decalcification the mixing ratios are drastically different than the 50/50 generally posted for run of the mill COSTCO or other commercial grocery store brands. The 30% stuff will blind immediately and burn as well. No kidding here. Specifically per OSHA: "This material is considered hazardous by the OSHA Hazard Communication Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200). SIGNAL WORD: DANGER GHS HAZARD PICTOGRAMS: Hazard Statements: Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. Precautionary Statements: Do not breathe mists, vapors, spray." GJ .

I like the Nova Kool R5810. Has a larger freezer and other benefits. Ken (Mountain Oliver) installed one and I put together with his ideas and edits the attached DYI guide for install. There is a good amount of info here in the forum threads as well. GJ Nova Kool R5810 Installation (7 MARCH 2023 Version).docx NOTE:: I edited the attachment to correct several typos and some minor clarifications. No significant changes otherwise.

Long time ago, John D. stated that he would not go beyond 15,000 miles on the OEM Dexter bearings. I asked how long with annual service the replacement Timken's would likely run and i recall 60,000 miles. For sure we get what we pay for..... GJ

Super easy fix. Have added this simple DIY fix to my summer list. "Another One Beats The Dust!" Gj

Lucky guy. You can still see the buttons on that micro remote................

Thanks Bill. I had missed it by speed reading while looking at his excellent pictures. Every one of them are perfect. What they highlighted to me (beyond the message of fixing the likely vent problem) is just how much dust my Ollie has between the hulls where the majority of our MEP resides. it certainly did not come from the factory that way. Likely the dust is from the air vents for the curb side and lots of dusty camping roads. It can't be good for the MEP systems. Looking forward to having to replaced the Dometic absorption refrigerator and sealing up the refer vents. That should help on the dust issue. Left would be the Suburban furnace grill used to provide cooling and combustion air to the furnace. Maybe a bolder catcher filter there. Plus about three days with a strong vacuum with 20 feet of hose. GJ

Brilliant!

Really important to know our actual height's, especially with any mods. As far as relying on posted info without not checking.....I do not have a Sat Receiver. So per the 2018 brocuhure, the height of my Ollie should be 8' 6". Tilt: Our Ollie is well over 8' 6" high. Also remembering that posted bridge heights are not always updatedd after paving overlays. Personally I use anything posted as under 10 feet posted as a RED FLAG warning. Less than that I stop and test fit so to speak. As you point out, we all really need KNOW what our rig's height really is. GJ

If it is magnetic, it's not bronze or brass. It has Iron. Will work, but it's not the best... IMO. GJ

Following is rabbit hole conjecture on my part for your amusement: The G-forces on loads behind the center point of the twin axles are lineally amplified by the lever arm distance. It therefore is good design to have more structural supports behind the axles than in front of them as reported. As the EZ Flex raises and lowers the axles based upon up/down road bumps/holes/trenches, it could also be adding additional loads to the areas in front and behind the axle center points. If those are in-phase with the road induced G-forces, the structural member loadings would be increased beyond that mentioned above.

IF your Axle Decal looks like this one, You may want to read the rest of the below. From what I can figure out, Red Neck Trailers was “Integrated” into Nuera Trans which was “Hoovered Up” into Dexter. The original Red Neck Trailers is still in business as is Nuera Trans. All flying the Dexter flag. As clearly printed on a Dexter Label, they were made by NUERA TRANS likely in Cookeville Tn. So don’t waste your time calling Dexter for a "Build Sheet". The correct terminology is to request the Configuration Info associated with 6339056. The Dexter Customer Service could not pull up this info. So instead, call this knowledgeable contact that has been in her job with all three name changes:: Christy Gillentine | CSR Dexter Distribution Group christy.gillentine@dextergroup.com direct tel:: (931) 739-4034 An alternate would be Denise Ameling via E-mail: <denise.ameling@dextergroup.com> Please keep in mind that these contacts are ONLY for NURA TRANS labels axels. If your label is not like the one above, the regular Dexter Customer Service is by far the way to get your axle info. The Nuera Trans Axles (I.E. Really Red Neck Trailer axles that were sold under the Nuera name) were purchased without springs. The springs were sent to them for assembly. They are the Chinese made PR4B springs. Christi stated that if the springs are flattening out, then they were undersized for the application. After they flatten out, then they generally fail as was originally reported on our thread. She stated that the PR4 springs with their thicker steel (2,400 pound rated) would be a better choice. Here is the CONFIG INFO for this Config Number for my rear axle on Hull 342. If you have the same number on yours, here it is: Note it states “No Springs, Calculate Leaf Spring Capacity”. GJ