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Splicing into the jack power at any convenient location is okay but be sure to fuse the booster power lead per install instructions. For a ground, look under the tongue near the jack tube. There should be a through bolt attaching the jack ground wire. Use the same bolt.

I would recommend that you ask the question of any local installers you have in mind. Their response should be the determining factor in your selection decision. Had you purchased the tires from a big name retailer like Discount Tire, Les Schawb, Costco etal you would not be let out the door without a placard addendum. Independent installers recommended by online sellers may not be as conscientious.

Whoever installed the LT tires should have placed an addendum Tire and Loading Information placard on the door jamb beside the original one. The addendum sticker should show recalculated minimum tire pressures for the LT tires that insure a carrying capacity not less than that of the factory original P rated tires. If you do not have amended tire pressures, find a tire dealer that knows what they're doing. Alternatively, it's not rocket science and may be within your own capabilities as long as you understand the objective and process. Also, be sure to reset the TPMS system so the warning threshold reflects the new placard values.

I could be missing something but, despite what the Oliver specs say, I don't believe 4 x group 27 batteries will fit in the tray. Oliver is probably still using the Autozone Duralast brand but; Are there very many LEIIs still being ordered with the standard flooded batteries? Enough to warrant seeking out another source? For me, the cost benefit of AGMs has nothing to do with amp hours but flooded batteries will surely win this comparison by at least 2 to 1. Size for size, an AGM typically has slightly less AH capacity but the usage difference is really only significant on paper.

Provided that the generator output is dedicated to only powering the Xantrex 3000 Inverter/Charger, you may be able to use the GP1200i. However, depending on the Oliver factory setting, you may have to adjust the "Charger Current" parameter within the Xantrex to prevent overloading the generator. Assuming that the Oliver setting tracks with Lithionics Battery recommended charge current of 50 amps or less, your generators 1000 watt output could be border line at the upper end. Dialing down the Xantrex charge current a click at a time, until the generator is stable, is a pretty easy task.

John, Follow the link below to 2022 Upgrades & Add-ons. Then scroll down to the heading "POWER". The AGM battery upgrade info is listed there. https://olivertraveltrailers.com/travel-trailers/legacy-elite-2/upgrades-add-ons/

I am a bit surprised that Truma would publish technical numbers in a marketing document that show little to no comparative advantage. While anything better would be a huge improvement over the Penguin II, the fact that they're A/C mode only, and will surely carry the typical Truma cost premium/tariff, puts these at a significant disadvantage beside the Houghton units. Maybe this is why they are only being made "available on select new RVs" from partener OEMs and are "currently not offered on the aftermarket" for retros by/for us folks. From an OEMs perspective, the Aventa features are sure to gain them points with the RV buyer, where a higher per unit cost is just passed on and buried. Beyond the sale, the end user costs of admission associated with Truma products are of little concern to the OEM. Absent a heat mode, the Aventa is of no interest to me as a replacement unit and Truma's marketing strategy just further stymies desirability. But, if I were in the market and Oliver offered a completely integrated hot water/heating/cooling solution, I'd bite. (provided the hot water component included recirculation of course) I really like the Aquago Comfort as far as it goes. If the A/C and heating products perform as well, Truma quality alone is worth the price to me.

I just received another new product announcement from Truma. For those interested, here is the link provided.

What about that Penguin II on the roof?

I gotta see this "dye-cast fiberglass" process.

Sorry but I have to ask. You do realize this is not a brake light don't you?

You might also want to check those water pump mounting screws. They looks as sketchy as the wiring job.

The windows in my 2018 don't have the hole at the top either. I believe by this time, instead of just one "universal" window assembly, Hehr decided to make L/R specific assemblies with (2) appropriately punched weep holes. An ignored aspect however was the upside down screen on the curbside assembly, with plastic glide strip at the top and retention springs on the bottom. Not a huge issue to correct however. Significant quality improvements to the Hehr 5600 windows were incorporated sometime mid 2019 and probably found their way into Oliver's 2020 MY production. One easy to spot change is the elimination of the exterior visible pop rivets that retain the glass divider strip. Other notables are closer and more consistent tolerances and correct orientation of the obscure glass pane in the bath window units. I don't know if the upside down screen was corrected but maybe someone with a 2020 or later model can check this. Hehr makes weep hole covers (p/n H109-916) but rather than plugging the holes, they provide an "awning" to help divert rainwater from entering. Unfortunately they only come in black and are relatively expensive but I'd think something like this would also benefit the bottom holes.

So OTT is just another manufacturer producing evolving products with an electrical system that a "skilled trade" can't understand? The only challenge with the earlier model diagrams is seeing through the errors. How about just admitting not wanting to commit the resources required to maintain accurate wiring diagrams. That's even more believable.

Shouldn't ever drip inside. Most likely you've got a leak in the condensate line at one of the multiple tube connections between the evaporator drain pans and white PEX overboard line shown in Dave's photo. With the intake filter on the bottom front of the air distribution box removed, you should be able to see all the potential sources and if there is backup from an obstruction further down. To remove the filter: Open the forward air diverter, Then use a few fingers to reach in and feel for the front edge of the filter frame. Push down hard at the center until the it pops loose.

No need for a voltmeter here. The error code 6 tells you all you need to know. The Norcold has two separate 12 volt connections. One is for powering the controls and the other for the heater. When these refrigerators are installed in a motorized camper, the control input is wired direct to the battery and the heater input is connected to an "engine running" source. This scheme is intended to prevent the vehicle battery from being run down inadvertently. In a travel trailer where this isn't a concern, the two 12 volt inputs should be jumpered together so both are powered by a single circuit. Definitely open a ticket with service. This is an installation error they should resolve for you warrantee or not.

Jacking up the front without unhitching is the solution. If the trailer is level or slightly nose down when dumping, greywater will backup toward the black valve, partially filling the section between the two valves. While the hose may empty, when it's capped and you pull away, any water left laying in the drain line will find its way back into the hose.

The controller is supposed to go through a reset routine whenever it powers up. 18 volts from the panels sounds right but the batteries at 4.5 indicates probable shorted cell. Next step would be to test the batteries but this will probably just confirm what you already know. Depending on their age, it may be more expeditious to just replace them. In the meantime, best to darken your solar panels with a blanket and disconnect and insulate the wires from the controller SOLAR terminals.

601 is battery disconnected. Likely a faulty wire terminal crimp somewhere. Been there. Use a two-part epoxy like this one, my go-to for small jobs.

The fluorescent lights in the sales delivery bay should be enough to at least get the controller power indicator and display to light up. Definitely sounds like some education would benefit the orientation process. Are your sure you're not seeing power coming from the batteries? The controller electronics are powered by the solar panel input. If their is no output from the controller, the battery terminals will simply be at battery voltage. You need to check for voltage across the solar panel input terminals. Rain or shine, I think as long as there is 10 volts or so, the controller will start to come alive.

Agree. Just disable the 7-way charge line like Oliver does.

If truly after a basic upgrade, I'd skip the solar controller and inverter upgrades for now. Just remove the Progressive converter section and wire in something like a Victron 30 amp Blue Smart charger that has a true Li-ion charging algorithm. You'll save a lot of wiring and needless equipment replacement and may find your requirements will change.

IR thermometer would be good to have here. First thing to do is pull the battery tray out and check the battery cases for abnormally high temp. If nothings feels unusually warm/hot, check the negative battery terminal that has the zamp temp sensor connected to it. (This is the forward outer battery on my 2018 with the agm option) If the 604 is valid (>65 degrees C ) you should not be able to touch it for very long. If hot, remove all charging sources and loads and disconnect batteries for test or replacement. Next, assuming all battery temps seem normal (604 is false), pull the zamp controller out and disconnect the two temp sensor wires. The 604 error should clear and charging will resume. If this occurs, the temp sensor likely has a fault in the wire somewhere and the entire sensor will need to be replaced. If the error doesn't clear, the controller may be bad. Not having the temp sensor hooked is okay just not optimal for charging.

It appears as though this door hook changed around 2018. Mine and the hook shown in the picture above provided by FrankC are stainless. See Seachoice Products #36181. To survive outdoors, a rubber grommet substitute for the original plastic bushing should be EPDM rubber. Try McMaster-Carr.

That looks like a firewall insulation, sucked into the filter by the fan. Telltail evidence is likely upstream in the intake ducting somewhere.