taylor.coyote

Scuba, found the fuses in-line as you had said about older trailers. Replaced the fuse and still no go. I'll start tracing the connections from the toggle switch back. I have a replacement switch on board. Hopefully a simple task. I'll let you know.

Lots written about the furnace but everyone seems generally satified with its ability to warn the cabin living space. We have been in the Anza Borrego area (45-night / 75-day) and headed for colder weather. Even with modified ducting (hard elbows at furnace, hard straight runs passing through the water valve area and cutting 3.5' off in the bath vanity) our heater works hard to get the cabin temperature above 65 degree (starting at 55 degrees inside). We find 65 comfortable but concerned about heating when it's 25 degrees outside. Is this normal? please share your heating experience.

Our Experience with the Starlink Mini is the same as Ronbrink. We traveled for many years with an ATT NetGear portable cellular hub but have repalced the NetGear with Starlink. We spend a good part of time off the grid and Starlink provides service everywhere except when you have abstructions such as trees between you and the satellite. The ATT NetGear is great device, it's portable, simple and easy to use. If we didn't spend time off the grid, we would likely stay with the ATT NetGear hub. With an ATT business account our NetGear plan was $65 monthly (+ buying it over time as with cell phones) with unlimited data use.

No tv at all in our OLEll. We have Starlink for communication and can get tv content on our laptops if desired.

900 miles on new Alcan springs, Dexter E-Z Flex Suspension Kit (K71-653-00), 5,000 lbs axles at 55lbs tire pressure. My trailer content is shifting like never before (especially pots and pans). Don't know if trailer is sprung stiffer or the really poor California freeways, Highway 71 and 15 getting around LA had big compressions and peaks. Anyone running the Alcan spring kits having the same experience?

thank you scuba. We are down for the count for the night. Hopefully they will be obvious in the morning.

In addition to having a quality trailer, you have joined an amazing group of people (Oliver forum). I continue to be amazed at the collective knowledge that this group is willing to share. Best of luck with you Oliver.

Mossemi, the electrical bus for the connections is located next to the master power shut off under the street side bed. This said the bus has nothing connected. Any other suggestions where I can find the fuses for the nose and rear jacks?

Thanks for the additional coaching. The good news: the jack is stuck in the up position / no manual cranking needed. Mossemi, thanks for the location/pics of the jack fuses. I'll think good thoughts and hope its just the fuse.

thanks for the tips about the fuses. don't understand where to find the jack fuses. Are you directing me to the master fuse box under the dinette? or are directing me to dig around under the street side rear bed.. and did you say both right and left rear jack fuses are located together under the bed? please clarify will also check the connections

big tex, you have likely saved me from head slapping and turning the sprayer into an ice cube

Just pull in to camp and the rear drive side jack will not got down. I'm assuming it's electrical at the toggle. This is likely associated with removing the entire propane compartment from the trailer a couple weeks ago to spray with vortex for rock protection. My knowlege of electricity is minimal although I do have a circuit tester in my tool kit. Can anyone tell me where to source the double toggle switch box for the rear Jacks or chime on how to go about isolating the power failure.

Thanks for sharing. I would agree many variables will be in play. Rivernerd, how do you pull the outside faucet inside? Your trailer is much newer (about 1,000 trailers after mine), maybe you have different plumbing. I have seen where people layer in additional insulation between the hatch door and the outdoor faucet. In general, our experiences is as you have described. Our Oliver can handle a few hours of below-freezing temperatures each night, provided you heat the interior and monitor the driver's side hull. I was a hardcore winter camper in my youth but we will head for the barn if the temp is a hard freeze day and night

We are planning to spend time at elevations in New Mexico that could range from lows of 20 +/- degrees at night and 40's to mid 50's in the day time. We will be boon-docking and running the heat 45-50 ish at night. We have camped with temperatures in the mid teens for a night or two but never consecutive days running . My question: should we be concerned about winterizing the water system when the temperatures are freezing at night and well above freezing during the day?

I replaced mine a number of years ago. Don't recall my source. You should search for marine stainless steel quick release pins. You will find a variety of lengths and diameters with and without leashes. The marine grade are spendy but they will not corrode.

I think Mike and Carol sum it up pretty well. You will always be fighting pay load and have marginal power with most 1/2 ton trucks. 3/4 ton and larger trucks tow effortlessly, give you payload headroom but make lousy daily drivers. We went from Toyota Tacoma to F250 6.7. We will never go back to a 1/2 ton for towing. Addtionally, It's hard not to love the power of diesel if it will fit your budget. Given a choice today, we would go with F350 for more payload capacity. We are not minimalist and bring along our toys.

We spend a great deal of time "off road" and have struggled with a reliable solution to protect the trailer from road rock damage. In our case with many miles using only mud flaps, the glass/ gelcoat at close inspection had the effect of a mild sandblasting. The PPF installers did not recommend installation due the surface being porous and not super smooth due to "road wear". We have been pleased with a somewhat radical solution; shooting the nose of our trailer with Vortex. We learned of the Vortext process from "Bugeyed driver". Our Vortext coating was applied recently but so far amazingly "bomb tough". We are now traveling on nasty fractured rocked/graveled roads stress free. This solution may not be for everyone but is a valid consideration if you spend a lot of time on gravel or your gelcoat is "road worn" and not longer super smooth. A further note on gravel protection: John Davies has a post on an under trailer mud flap to protect the under side and trailer running gear (socket, springs, axles and other) from gravel damage. We have found this to be effective and recommended if you spend time on gravel.

Reyonolds RV Repair (707) 725-3426 646 Hwy 36 Fortuna, CA 95540 these guys have been good for me.. just south of Eureka ca

I have found 3 threads / variations of rear bumper mounted baskets / cases. They range in size from the large Sea Biscuit to John Davies mounting the Oliver tongue basket at the rear bumper. I like the idea of a smaller basket for spare fuel cans but a basket in this position seems impede accessing / performing sewer hose functions. Those using rear mounted baskets, please share your experience accessing and putting away the sewer hose.

Yep, new tanks are on order.... thanks to all

Vortex 510 N. Santa Fe Ave. Salina, KS 67401 (785) 833-6720

Mike and Carol. the price will vary a lot for Vortext coating. Pete's application was much more expensive. I recommend calling Vortext and tell them your application needs. They were very helpful giving me locations that were experienced coaters and do a variety of applications using uv stable / paint matched finish coatings. My coaters do a lot of work with uv coatings but don't have the tools to identify color. I had to provide them the paint color formula. I brought my propane cover to my local specialized automotive paint supplier. They were able to use a special camera on the propane cover to come up with the paint formula that I gave to the Vortext shop. Be sure to disassemble the trailer nose. You need to remove the aluminum plate that that is bolted through into the bath vanity to spray the surface under the plate. Vortex is too thick for the nose cover to side on if you tape off the plate and spray around it.

I joined this thread Nov 2019 looking for a solution to protect our trailer's fiberglass from rock chips/pitting. We have remained fustrated for a solution that met our needs. John Davies rock stompers were more than we want futz with while hitching/unhitching and bugeyed driver's Vortex appeared to be very good but very expensive based on his report and was available only 800 miles from my home. Six years later, even more frustrated dealing with rock pitting our fiberglass. I called the Vortex company and asked if they had experienced dealers near me. I was given two options: one in Sacramento and the other in Redmond Ore (near Bend). Both within a 5-6 hour drive. I spoke with Calvin, the owner of Interstate Coatings and Linings of Redmond Oregon. Clavin was very knowlgable and gained my confidences to spray our trailer with Vortex + an automotive UV stabilizer color match paint. Having solved finding an experienced Vortex services within shouting distances of home, price was the next Hurdle. Interstate Coating's quoted fee was $10 per sq foot + $65 per hour for disassembly / re-assembly of the propane nose and various hardware. One week later the job was done. The total cost was $695. We are pleased with the work and color match. We are ready put the Vortex to the test. Calvin and Alex (shop manager) are good guys and offer a what we think is a great service/product that let us roam the outback gravel roads stress free. We will let you know how Vortex preforms for gravel protection. For now we are happy campers. Thank you Bugeyeddriver for taking the time on the phone and sharing your experience with Vortex. You gave us the confidences to go forward with the Vortex process.

You don't mess around. That's a nice piece of hardware. Very Well done!! We are already ladder rich and only needed the platform to create scaffolding .

JD 1923, I purchased this direct from Little Giant factory direct sale for about $130 at the time. the other Little giant item that I love is the plank to walk between two ladders. they make a few sizes. I can walk the whole length of my f250 and about halfway the length of the trailer while easily accessing the roof. great for waxing your rigs. these are spendy but I purchased mine direct during a sale for around $150.. I'm on their promo list and get sale offers..