SNY SD UP

Ours is relatively new (2020 pick up). No noise/chatter as of yet. It looks like these are fairly easy to pick up on the road if we suffer a failure.

We were not able to get fuel early this morning. The fact that we had 3-4 ' of snow surrounding the pumps at our local station may have had something to do with it. We are scheduled for at least 10k miles this camping season.

John, Did you replace because of issues or age? Will you rebuild the one you removed and take with you (or keep on the shelf) as a spare?

JD... Thanks, I was looking up what was used for our 2020 LE II, a "Pentair Shurflo 4008 RV revolution by-pass pump 4008-101-E65", and before i sorted-out all that popped up on AMAZON, you provided the link. in case i wanted to make another purchase "before" our next outing.

I agree with Bill. with one additional step. 4 - You may want to do again after a couple of water fill-ups, on the road. After (new) pick-up, and after reading about the same topic in a different thread we found plastic bits in the inline filter basket. After a few weeks on the road and some additional fill-ups i checked it again and had fewer plastic bits. After the third check, we were good. I will continue check again every 3-5 fill-ups. B- Out.

Albert, Where will you camp in your Ollie when you visit within the City?

Yes of course, Ultimatecampgrounds, Rvparky Allstays, Campendium, Harvesthost, i know there are more. others do not appear to address Canada.

We have our route (reservations confirmed) planned up thru Maine (July 25). We are now looking at Canada (Nova Scotia, PIE, New Brunswick, Quebec, Ontario) but not sure if we will drop down to eastern ND from Manitoba or western ND from Saskatchewan. We have not started with the usual/recommended camping apps with regards to camping in Canada and are wondering if any of you have any additional recommendations as to "Canada" camping/planning APPS, other than those mentioned in previous threads. B, Out

Do you give/sell them to other TT owners that you may know that can use that type of battery technology? Give/Sell them "as-is" on the public domain or bring them to a disposal center? Just wondering.

all good information.

Do you have any recommendations? Looking at a camping location then going elsewhere to pick up some mass transit into New York City..." last half of July. We did the West & North of NY state last year, working our way up the East Coast this year, so NYC (never been there before) is on the list. We have been looking at Camp Gateway in Brooklyn or Liberty Harbor RV Park in New Jersey. I see Gateway has an airport surrounding it. i guess we will run the A/C to drowned out the noise... B Out,

WELCOME TO NORTH DAKOTA. It does get cold in the winter, but the ice and snow are usually gone by June, We get some strong winds, but it keeps the mosquitos away, Yes, we get hail (May-Oct), with some damage, and we have had a few tornados up here, but earthquakes are not common or strong, We keep SnySdUp in a heated Quonset during the winter, no hail damage, but a few dings from rocks whilst out on the road.

one addendum, if you go to the TRNP Southern Unit near Medora, they have the Medora Musical, if you are into that. B~Out

SeaDawg is correct, The Teddy Roosevelt NP (North Unit) of the North Dakota badlands are beautiful. The South Unit (near Medora) is also nice but a lot more developed. there may be other private CG's around Medora. These are NP's so they are boondocking (with some shade). Sites in the North Unit's Juniper Campground are on a first come, first served basis, except for the group campsite which is by reservation only. Juniper only occasionally fills to capacity on weekends in summer. Sites are primitive (no RV hookups). Watch out for the Buffalo... do not be surprised if you wake up with one rubbing on your trailer. B-Out

JD, I TOTALLY agree, All this was on ME and me alone, looking back at it, we are fortunate that we made it without any accidents. B, Out

If you have an older TV (2010 GMC 1500 Sierra w/tow pkg) you bought new or used like us, you want to make sure that you have a functioning "Trailer Brake" mechanism, either from the factory or an add-on usually near the Steering column. Our TV owner's manual implied that we had one and there was even a section on how to engage and adjust it, but I could not locate it in the dash area, I thought it was maybe hidden, so I BLINDLY thought we had one. Later I became painfully aware that just because you have TT Brake lights does not mean that your TT Brakes are engaging. Along the Blue Ridge Pkwy and coming down one of those grades and finally being able to pull over at a pull-out with the “Blue Smoke” rolling out of the rear TV wheels, I knew something was not right, but I thought it was because I did not gear down for the decent. What was strange to me was, the OTT brakes were not hot or smoking... Later we were able to locate a FANTASTIC Automotive repair shop (Weibert's Auto Place, 720 Creek Ln, Youngstown, NY 14174). They are friendly, fair, fast & did not take financial advantage of a couple on Vacation... On the initial visit I whipped out my 7-pin tester and showed them I had current running back to my TT Brake Lights so I should have brakes, right? They in-turn popped the hood, had a look around inside and they were able to diagnose the issue. My words not theirs “Your wiring for your Trailer Braking is stilled rolled up and covered in plastic because your vehicle does not have a factory installed or aftermarket Trailer Brake mechanism to connect the wires to". They added an aftermarket trailer braking system the Steering column. They also repaired / replaced (my words, their action) parts for the rear brakes" on the TV and showed me how to adjust the sensitivity of the TV braking for the TT. From that point on, stopping distances were greatly reduced and the trip no longer had any "E-Ticket rides" or caused any broken fingernails. Bryan, Out

I bought something like the link below at the nearby Menards for somewhere between $150-200 (now $225-250) years ago when working on the inside of our home. It is very handy, and I keep it setup in the garage. I have some hollow pipe insulation on one side so if metal sides rub up against the Ollie, no issues. I put the deck at 1/3 to 1/2 high, and it works great, not too wobbly. I can reach everything on top, rinse & dry. When I need to move Maggie just releases the wheel brakes and push/pulls me to the next wash station. Then we tackle the sides from the ground, and we are done. https://www.harborfreight.com/900-lb-multipurpose-scaffold-63050.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiNjIyOTcyMzUiLCJza3UiOiI2MzA1MCIsImlzIjoiMjA2Ljk5MSJ9&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12172784578&campaignid=12172784578&utm_content=114847980617&adsetid=114847980617&product=63050&store=&gclid=CjwKCAiAx8KQBhAGEiwAD3EiP_RxHfMc7AHNs80ZYo5WKrb-ZkPMvxBp-CKfuCL0Iy78XnOwcAy5ChoCqNcQAvD_BwE Regards, Bryan

JD, thanks, if it runs that much, guess i will "run what you brung..." i do not know yet. still reading owner's manual, just got the truck yesterday... i will look to see if it is on a sticker on the door or other visible frame.

If this is not the correct topic for this question, please let me know, and I will move it. Wondering what those with a similar TV have as a R-E gear ratios. Bryan Thanks to all who will contribute useful knowledge,

We will be at the Rally, in site # G23, we look forward to seeing old friends and meeting new ones. Maggie (SnySdUp) & Bryan (scrambled) & Willis the Kamper Kat,

I am sooooooooooo glad to hear that it is not just us taking more than a few days to plan a trip... Yes, this trip will be from home in ND to “the Rally” & Gulf Shores, then over to FL, out the Keys and back up the East Coast to Maine, over into CA-NA-DA, and drop down to ND and home. We are looking forward to a vacation after time spent planning for one... We are open for CG suggestions for FL. We would like to see the Everglades, take a drive out the Keys probably NOT with SnySdUp behind us. At this time, we are looking at a visit to Cape Canaveral, and other CG's heading north on the west coast of FL that might be memorable. B Out, Maggie & Willis (Kamper Kat) have started packing...

We will be heading out from ND to Lake Guntersville for the '22 rally, then onto Gulf State Park, AL. From there we will head east to stopping along the way. One of the locations we are looking at along the way is Juniper Springs. It does not appear as they have Electric, so it will be solar/batt's for us. HOWEVER, there looks to be a lot of shade, Any advice as to a good site? Regards, Bryan & Maggie and Willis (Kamper Kat)

Yes, it appears as though we have the 9500E

dewdev Thank You, We have that issue also, the rear of the C/s awning not fully closing as shown in the video, and we have maybe 1/4-1/2" of off track when rolling up. However, the endcap has pulled away from the tube, which may have been caused by the fabric going off-track, I just do not know yet. I believe I can see where there is a notch in the endcap that would align with the cavity in the roller where it holds the fabric, but I wanted to see what the experience of the form is before I do something that would make it worse... I was horrified that I had scared the Teflon/plastic coating on the roller when trying to get the two synced up; however, I believe I can smooth that out, when this issue is resolved. I did not gouge any metal where it would abrade the fabric or drop a burr in the works. Looking at the Dometic Awning section in the owner’s manual, it appears as though the shaft is designed to protrude at the rear so one can manually (with wrench) retract it in, in the case of a power failure. Mine appears to protrude about 1” out of the rear bracket that holds it in place, and I do not know if that is correct or not. So, I did not want to force (i.e. hammer) it towards the front to get the tube mated up with the endcap when there is another/proper way to get the two together again. I have added a picture of the C-S Front & Rear ends showing the spindles, in case anyone sees anything amiss.

If this has been addressed in the forum, please guide me to that post so I can resolve my issue without bothering the forum members. I have talked to OTT about this. "Looking at the video it appears that something inside the awning has come loose. The one end that doesn't close properly may be impacted to the roller tube jumping and/or just need to be adjusted." OTT Service recommends that I locate a local (about 200 mi) service center near me, which I have done. However, they are booked for some time out. So, I would like to see what the issue is and see if I can fix it. First of all, the awning has not suffered any trauma that we are aware of, no wind event; no objects came in contact with it. It did retract a couple of times when the wind came up, but that appeared to be minor and insignificant at the time. I believe we always retracted the awning when we were away from the trailer. Prior to this, the rear (LHS of C/S) was not completely closing but stayed open about 1". C-S Rear Not fully Retracting.mp4 i have two video's i have taken with my phone, as well as some pictures, and i also found a parts explosion (may not be Dometic, but very close) that shows where the separation took place. basically, the tube rolls open/closed just fine, however the guide on the (RHS) end has separated, so the tube flops a little as the awning is opening/closing. i am not sure which end (LHS or RHS) is causing the separation. YES, i caused those scratches on the plastic, when trying to lift and center the tube, but did not realize that occurred at the time as that was hidden by the housing, until i extended/retracted the awning. i stopped rather than cause any further issues and decided to reach out to those that may know what is going on. Kindest Regards, Bryan C-S Front Opening.mp4 C-S Front Retracting.mp4