Overland

Sometimes the clip is slightly misaligned and you can't easily push the shade into place. If that's the case, forcing it might bend the clip. You can try feeling behind the shade to see if the clip is aligned to the channel, and if it's not, you can usually wiggle the shade enough to get it aligned. You can also try pulling the blind completely off and seeing if the clip is bent, twisted, etc. Or, if they all seem OK, then you can try putting the blind back on by snapping the problem clip in first. Sometimes the clips are just a little off and if you get the troublesome one in place first, then the others will line up enough to snap in.

Actually here's the outside one. Not quite the same bargain, but still very reasonable - https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ydby-door-mat-indoor-outdoor-black-10230562/

We use both an outside and inside welcome mat. The inside one is good for taking off and storing hiking shoes. Both of them came from Ikea - I only see the inside one on their website now, which still looks fine after four years, despite its $0.99 price tag. https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/kristrup-door-mat-dark-blue-90392452/

I'm familiar with that one, but we ended up with traditional bars. In general, though, we've had good luck with Ikea products in the trailer, at least in terms of quality - and with appropriate expectations on the front end, given how inexpensive they are. Our bath mat and towels have held up surprisingly well, dishes have remained in one piece, bath faucet seems perfectly fine, bath trash can has been fine, etc. A few things haven't worked out - mainly kitchen towels, which were OK but deemed too thin and replaced, and various storage organizers have been hit and miss in terms of their utility, though their quality was fine.

Personally, I think it’s an interesting question and I’d like to know the answer. But having said that, I do think that the default assumption should be that Oliver has done it correctly. Particularly since this is a safety issue. For what it’s worth, the wiring diagram in my Dexter manual doesn’t show a fuse either, nor is it called for in the installation text. While I agree that it seems logical to have a fuse, it also seems logical to have at least one bit of supporting documentation before we all start messing with our braking systems. Searching around the internet, I can find discussions asking the same question for other trailers, but no answers other than opinion. So the only thing I can say for certain then is that the lack of a fuse isn’t something unique to our trailers.

Unless those regulatory issues have a reason for being. Shouldn’t the default assumption be that both Oliver and the brake manufacturer know what they’re doing?

I don’t know if that was your only reason for wanting the cover off, but you should be able to see that label by taking off just the return air grill and filter.

I haven’t looked at mine to see if the wire is wrapped separately (if at all), but that seems like something that might give some peace of mind, fused or not.

We have one of the original Teakworks mats. Originally I oiled it, but keeping it clean of soap scum was a pain so I coated it with satin polyurethane. I though I’d have to add some anti slip strips but it’s actually quite grippy on its own. The finish started to wear thin in a few spots after three years but I just gave it a quick sanding and two more coats and it’s like new.

I’ve had my eye on one of these outdoor mats for some time. I think originally they were a military product and then for a while only available in Australia, but it looks like you can get them here now for a relatively reasonable price. The color selection is a bit bright for my taste, but I may give one a try. https://www.cgear-sandfree.com

I’m thrilled to see the end of the swoosh. And personally I think that the clean, all white look is great. I’d argue though that adding something to break up the side would have broader appeal. Just not another swoosh, please. There’s so much more that can be done with graphics than just slapping a random curvy line across the side.

Absolutely

I can’t remember what we paid for ours, but with the campfire restrictions almost everywhere these days, it’s been a great purchase regardless of price.

One thing to keep in mind is that like everything else from 3M, Dual Lock isn’t a single product. I think there are 15 versions of varying combinations of adhesives, strengths and thicknesses. And you can combine strips of different types to change the strength. The best way to get the one you want is to get the product number from the 3M website and then search for that on Amazon.

I’ve used it in places where I want something to be more or less permanent, but able to be removed for access or repairs: attaching the bath vanity, the false drawer front at my kitchen sink, ceiling acoustic panels, etc. You can also use it on the exterior.

Yes, 3M Dual Lock is what you want.

To answer the original question, I think we’ve actually gotten an overload alarm once even with a 3000 watt inverter - maybe coffeemaker plus hairdryer or something like that. Point being that you adjust your camping lifestyle to what you’ve got. 3000 watts isn’t at all necessary, but if you’ve got it you’ll probably get used to using it.

Hey you were the one who brought up all this fancy ‘underwear’ talk.

Is the only option now the number of axles?

A few owners have installed window awnings from Little House Customs. Like so... We have the full side awning and use it all the time. For us, it's a regular part of setting up camp to set both awnings like in the photo below (with or without the arms down). That's far enough to keep an unexpected rain out of any open windows while not being extended so far that the wind can catch them. And of course it takes just a few seconds to roll them further out to block the sun.

Apparently the Scrubba is still a thing. It seemed like a neat idea when it came out but I wasn’t confident that it would make it.

Mine had some rough areas like that when we picked it up, but it turned out to be a very fine mist of paint overspray. The backs of our pantry and closet doors were painted flat white vs the grey and black that I've seen on other trailers, so I'm guessing that they did some touch up painting after the trailer was together. I know from personal experience that if you try to do any spray painting inside the trailer that you have to cover everything. I do have some rough patches on the roof though that need to be polished. But they're under the solar panels so I guess they'll remain.

Lol - yes, it's a mod, but actually a rather easy one. Mike explained it pretty well - just add hinges to one of the pantry counters. When we bought ours, Oliver gave you a choice for the cooktop orientation. I may be wrong, but I think ours is the original orientation, then people started asking for it to be turned so that the glass acted as a barrier to the beds, and then eventually the option became the standard. Here's the original thread on it. FWIW, it's easily one of my favorite mods. That little bit of extra counter space makes a huge difference.

I’ve seen products with a corian veneer over some other substrate so perhaps you could find something along those lines that would work. There’s also at least one owner who went over his original countertop with stainless steel.

Yes, that was my post about the shower, and I replaced the counter using the 3M Velcro which seems to be plenty strong for the application, at least for fiber granite. I think that the original glue was an epoxy rather than a caulk adhesive. I think that corian would be considerably heavier, and also thicker than the fiber granite. The fiber granite uses a honeycomb core, so it’s pretty light. I might be a little nervous about using Velcro to attach corian because of the weight and a small piece like the one at the pantry or microwave could do some damage if it were to come loose during breaking or a big bump.