topgun2

I'll give it a shot even though I'm certainly not in the league of you electrician types. This/these fuses will "blow" if you reverse the positive/negative cables by mistake. Many years ago I did this and even though I replaced the blown fuse in the old RV, I neglected to even think that there just might be one of these in my Tacoma too. Fast forward a couple of weeks and I'm scrambling to figure out why the Taco is not charging the RV batteries. Fast forward another three days and I came upon another blown fuse in the Taco. Strange - now everything works as it should! Bill

That's exactly where I plug in my small electric heater when I have commercial camp ground power - just like ScubaRx

Interesting view of the bolts/rivets on the hinged side of the door. Kind of like looking at an X-ray.

Bummer on the sag deal - my 8 year old door is in exactly the same place as when it was delivered. Perhaps this is because (basically) when the Ollie is in motion, the door is closed and locked. When I'm camped, the door is open - unless I have guests. If I had to replace a sagging door then I'd certainly consider getting that new door instead - it appears to be more substantial than the one I have now. Bill

If it were me - I'd actually place the insulation (Reflectix in this case) on the underside of the fiberglass. This is fairly easily done on the two "trap" doors but is somewhat more difficult to place it on the underside of the fiberglass. If you really want to have insulation on top of the fiberglass then I'd suggest using a foam insulation panel on top of the fiberglass followed by the hyper-vent and then the mattress. While I do not have the hyper-vent product I have used a 1/2 inch insulating foam panel under my mattress without any issues for the past 8 years. If you go this route then also consider cutting pieces of the foam board for use around the edges of the mattress to insulate the mattress from the relatively cold exterior wall. When I did mine, I cut the foam board such that it was about one to two inches short of the top of the mattress so that it could not be seen nor felt when I was in the bed. I believe that it was John Davies that continued with this idea by insulating from the bottom of the windows down the wall to the bottom of the mattress so that when turning over in the middle of the night your bare arm (other body parts) would not touch the relatively cold exterior wall. Bill

Yes - in fact, it is good practice to only have your inverter "on" when you actually are using it to get from 12 volt (battery) power to 120 volt power that you have no other source for (i.e. shore power). For example - if you are out in the woods "boondocking" (or a rest stop or parking lot or ....) and have no way to plug your Ollie into any external source of 120 volt power (generator or pedestal or very long extension cord) but you still want to use the microwave to pop a bag of popcorn, then turn on the inverter, use your microwave to pop that bag of corn and immediately (so you don't forget) turn the inverter back off. You do this because the inverter will continue to use some power even though the microwave is not running. Bill

Can you give us a bit more detail on this? Can this window be opened? By "single pane" do you mean that it is a single pane of glass and not an insulated double pane of glass? Or, do you mean that the "single pane" does not have a slider opening? Or, something else? Would you have a picture of it? Bill

Aren't we all?😉

In order to "complicate" this discussion a bit further - The remote buttons used for being able to turn on the inverter "remotely" are connected to the inverter via what looks like a telephone cable. The little contacts inside that remote have been known to become dirty over time and can make the remote basically useless. If it appears as though the remote is not working - then - try using the on/off button on the inverter itself. Bill

I assume that your Ollie has the onboard surge protector. If that assumption is correct then there is really no need to have an external one, but, there are those owners that do like to have "double" the protection. Bill

Nice looking latch! I can hear the negative comments now about the fact that the mirror is not over the full door!😉 Did anyone say that this new door is being produced "in house"? It appears that the color and finish matches well to the rest of the fiberglass. Bill

Jason - You are now an official card carrying member of the family - welcome (again). I too thought that the "Ollie Gods" were against me when I picked up. It had the nerve to rain and we were camped in a mud hole to boot. Sure, I washed (as best I could) the shiny new Ollie the next day but (you guessed it) it only rained again. At least we didn't get sick! Hope all are back to normal by now. Certainly you will have a great story to tell and re-tell about your delivery trip. Hope that the "first real" camping trip goes without issue and you can settle into that lovely new Oliver. Bill

"some" ??????????????????😁

Contact Service and I'm guessing that they will ship you some new caps. Then, when you install these simply put something like E6000 or any similar product on the backs of the caps and that will keep them from "falling off". Bill

If you have to ask then this exalted position is well above your station in this life - sorry.

Mike and Jill - Thanks for the update! Hopefully Truma will take good care of you. Bill

Yes - those fish in the streams and all those fire prone trees, bushes, etc. really need that winter snow for moisture.

So - now you have to stay up at night worrying about the kids getting under the dinette and licking those crooked USB ports.😁

Yep - water vapor is a by-product of burning propane. Thus, unless vented, the Mr.Heater will simply add moisture to the interior of the Ollie. I always have the bath door open with the bath vent open plus have either a window cracked or have the main ceiling vent opened when using my Mr.Heater. As Ron states - Bill

Why not? Let me see - its New Year's Eve, ALL service centers are closed (to include the chance of getting hold of anyone at Oliver). You have a problem and you get THE answer in short order. What's not to like? Besides, it is the collective knowledge of this Forum's members that make the Forum the place it is. Certainly there is something or some place that you can add to the discussion that will surely help another member have a better experience with their Ollie and camping in general. Thanks to GJ for the information above - it looks like you are plugged into shore power that is not up to standard. Bill

May the New Year be safe, happy and filled with many great Ollie adventures. Bill

Another - it depends. If you normally camp "plugged into shore power" then a 120 volt unit makes sense. And, vise versa if you use 12 volts most of the time. The reasoning is that if you mostly "convert" 12 volt to 120 volt then there is a built in loss of energy by doing that conversion. Conversely, if you invert 120 volt to 12 volt you have an energy loss during the inversion. Obviously, if you tend to do a bit of both then a dual unit would be the ticket. Bill

And, here I was being "nice" - look where that got me. Of course you can borrow it. Rusty bolts used in making a homemade tool certainly can't cost that much more than a buck. 😆

AND - Mossemi's "tool" is a bunch less expensive too. 🤑

For what its worth and I do not have the details on this - but - I understand that the water inlets for the 2024 Elite II Oliver's will be changing and simplified. I do not know if these same changes will happen for the Elite I or not. From what little I've heard - the city fill and fresh water tank fill will be combined and moved to the rear of the camper on the left side of the bumper. The "winterization port" will remain on the right side of the bumper. Bill