topgun2

GJ - I have little knowledge of what your talking about - but - I really do like the WAY you think. Bill p.s. Actually, I wasn't trying to be funny here nor insulting about either my knowledge of the subject nor GJ's way of thinking.

Just don't tell your dentist!😇

In a recent video on YouTube, RV Miles mentions a relatively new film on the history of Airstream Trailers. Below is the link to this film which can be watched for $4.99 or purchased for $14.99. Bill https://vimeo.com/ondemand/alumination

I really like your garage/workshop/garage! But, unless I'm skiing I don't like snow all that much. Bill

I lived in Clayton, MO (close suburb of Saint Louis) for 25 years - one of the major reasons I left upon retirement was that it is cold in the winter and hot in the summer. Actually, it can get worse than single digits - not very often - but - once I saw 13 below. Bill

The Turkey's not even cold yet. Patience will yield you untold rewards (maybe).🤔

Yes - Its all relative. By this I mean if you check both the hubs (covered or uncovered) and the rims near the hubs on a regular basis with a TPMS or a hand held temperature sensor, you will soon "learn" what your "normal" readings are for your rig. Deviations from these "normal" readings should send you on a mission to find the cause of the difference in temperature. The answer may be simple - the sun is shining on that side of the camper or your tire pressure is too low or the road you're traveling is severely "crowned" in the center or you've been "riding" your brakes in traffic or going down a long hill. Or, it could be the first signs of bearing failure or a "dragging/sticking" brake. I've never had an unexplained "problem" with my Ollie (yet), but, on a couple of RV's previous to the Ollie both the TPMS and checking at each stop really saved my bacon. Bill

Tough life - but - someone's just got to do it!

Here's what they look like - in case you are having trouble remembering. 😁 Great looking pie!

OUCH!🤢

OK - I have a "spare" microwave in the workshop. Note from the pics below that it does NOT have the "brace" installed at the top of the microwave - this is probably why this microwave was given to me in that the previous owner simply could not get it to stop bouncing around in the cabinet. Also note the four holes in the front of the faceplate that the previous owner drilled in an effort to get it more securely installed. If you need more pics of this unit - just yell. Hope this helps! Bill

I don't ever recall a post in which this was either shown or discussed.🤔 Something shouldn't be all that difficult to make - perhaps Foy has looked into it for something fancy? Bill

OK - but it will have to wait until the next time I'm out at the storage yard - should be within the next two weeks. Bill

p.p.s. I can get you a picture of the bottom of the microwave and/or the back of the trim piece if that helps you - just let me know. Bill

When you take a look inside you will see that the microwave has a sheet metal piece attached to the bottom that extends about 5/8 inch from the bottom of the microwave. Then there are four rubber feet - one at each corner - that extends another 5/8 or so for a total of 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. As I remember, I used scrap 2 x 4 around the bottom to wedge around that wood box and under the microwave until the wedges hit the rubber feet. Then where that didn't fit I shaved off slices (using my radial arm saw) until it was tight. Pay attention to the fore/aft movement - you can wedge wood not only against the rubber feet but also between the sheet metal at the base of the microwave and the front of the interior cabinet. I did not drill into anything - the simple wedging did the trick. Once you get the trim piece off, you will see that the "metal" is actually very thin and only supported via the plastic framing. There really isn't much metal there at all. Bill p.s. in wedging the material around the unit I used a small hammer to tap the wedges into place. Small because of the working space and I didn't want to bend anything out of shape on the microwave. However, I did want to have the wedges very snug. Finally, when I was satisfied I drilled four holes in the front of the face plate and screwed directly through the fiberglass into the wood box. Then I used screw covers to "hide" and dress up the screws. No one has ever commented that the covers look out of place.

Even though for most of my trips I travel alone, I still do not use the space between the bed to store anything meaningful. I have placed a "rack" for my shoes on the short wall below the streetside bed and when I'm towing the things that sit on top of the nightstand are placed on the floor at the foot of the nightstand. I assume that you have utilized the space below the front dinette seat and the space below the streetside bed? Once I found the perfect sized plastic container for under the front dinette seat it has been the depository for my coffee maker and things that will not fit in the pantry. Extra charcoal, my shower tent, safety cones and a few other things go below the streetside bunk. Happy Thanksgiving and good luck on finding the storage solution(s) that work for you. Bill

Welcome to the Family! Let us know if there is anything we can do to make the trip even more enjoyable. Be sure to let the folks at the Mothership know that you are the new owners. They have the complete file on 1147 and can let you know what services have been performed by them during its life. Bill

Yes - there was a post here on the Forum that showed the inner workings of those things. Good luck in finding it. Bill

Retired 2020 - Welcome - really glad that you finally got here. Thanks for the checklist. There are a number of checklists available here on the forum and - like yours - most are easy to adjust to any number of camping styles. Let us know if there is anything that we can do for you! Bill

Is the sink actually rusting - its supposed to be stainless steel - or is it from water stains due to iron in the water?

Search further - No it doesn't have to be the Zamp brand but any that you purchase will have to have a separate solar controller. Bill

Everyone note that Steve and MA's idea isn't just for those with "frosted "cabinet doors! I've had similar product on the interior of my "mirrored" doors for a number of years and it does a great job. Even those with the "black" doors can benefit from this mod. Also note that when replacing the doors - do not over tighten the hardware - particularly the hinges. Overtightening will cause "spider" cracks in the door around the hinge. Also, be a bit careful with the razor knife that you might use to trim the "contact/cling" material as any scratch or cut on the inside of the coating on the door will be easily seen when you turn on those interior cabinet lights. Bill

Yes, there is more to the story. It seems that for vehicles that get used more often than RV's the movement of the tire causes some distribution of the chemicals in the rubber. Whereas when a tire stays static there is (obviously) no movement and/or flex. In turn, this allows the surface of the tire to degrade faster than it "normally" would which eventually leads to cracking which leads to ..... When I put Twist into winter storage I first slightly elevate the tires from the gravel base by rolling the trailer onto pressure treated lumber that is covered in plastic sheeting. This helps keep moisture away from the tires. Then I cover each wheel with a tire cover and, finally, I place a 2 x 8 sheet of treated plywood over the covers. This keeps rain, snow, weed wackers and the like from damaging the covers. Perhaps a bit overkill, but, it makes me happy knowing that I've done all that I can think of to protect things while getting the most time out of them. Bill

Primarily covers are used to reduce a tire's exposure to UV light which degrades the rubber over time. The less light that the tires are exposed to results in longer life of the rubber. Some people will use tire covers virtually all the time when stopped - even overnight. But, most simply use them while the RV is in storage. Bill

That's a great place for seeing it from the entry door, but, doesn't the "flashing" red light bother you at night? Or, did you find a way to tame it?