topgun2

If a review of the link posted by rich.dev above doesn't help you then I'd suggest a call to the Service Department of Oliver. They might be able to give you some quick "hints" as to how to get that fridge out. Good luck! Bill

Your best bet - just to make absolutely sure - would be to ask your sales agent at Oliver. However, historically the standard cushions have been 4 inches thick. Bill

Are you asking this question because you want to fabricate a mattress yourself? If yes then I faintly recall someone here on the Forum giving those dimensions. Unfortunately, I will not be able to look for you for the next couple of days. Bill

Well - the smoke and the smell are a good indication that the ammonia "unit" had nothing to do with the issue at hand. Yes, the ammonia "unit" could still be hot even with the fridge off, but, it shouldn't be hot too long after the fridge is off. Certainly, after an hour or so, I wouldn't think that it would be so hot as to cause the sizzling you heard. Yes, as you have already decided, in cases like this it is always better to get things checked out. Otherwise, you will pay the price of constantly worrying that the problem will reoccur or worse. Bill

I remember seeing a YouTube video where the poster did much the same thing as you have done. Nice job! Makes a good product (but expensive product) much more useful and even easier to use. Bill

No, nothing was deleted (that I know of). But, I think that the "pressure washing" was either assumed in order to get the water into the areas of the rear of the fridge where it would cause problems OR it was assumed that a regular water hose was used and even that is under pressure. Certainly this is a possibility, but, when it was said that the fridge was turned off and then retried a bit later and the sizzling was still heard, I assumed that any water in the area you mention would have been evaporated the first time. Bill

I doubt - very seriously - that it is Camping World. Bill

HERE is a YouTube video from a couple called "Changing Lanes" that discusses fire safety in RV's. About half way they mention the Proteng system they had installed. Certainly some good safety info in this vid. Bill

I'd bet that if you contacted the manufacturer (is THIS the one?) and asked how you could get one of those wrenches, you just might receive one shortly in the mail gratis. Good luck! Bill

Sure do like the price. Hope it works out for you. Bill

When you say the fridge was off - do you mean that it was turned off at the fridge control panel or the fridge fuse was pulled or something else. I ask this question because - if the fridge was "really and truly totally off" there would be no electricity going to it. Therefore, there should have been NO sizzling because there would be no way for anything to arc since there was no electricity going to the fridge. Of course, if the fridge was "only" turned off at its control panel then electricity was still going to the fridge but the "workings of the fridge would not be able to operate - (i.e. the fridge would not turn on and try to cool itself down). All of this is to raise the possibility that the sizzling could be coming from something other than the electric connected to the fridge - this is not the most likely situation, but, it is possible depending on your answer to my question. Bill

Ho, ho, ho!

There's some humor in this somewhere!😆

According to Google - there are something like 11.2 million RV's registered in the US. Divide that by 4000 and you get a very small number. Even assuming that the #2 cause is something like 3,999 you still get a very small number. Regardless, I certainly don't want to have a fire in my Ollie nor in its fridge area. I'm just not convinced that "many RV's burn to ash..." due to the fact that they have propane /absorption fridges. Bill

Or, perhaps, something like the Proteng fire suppression system would be helpful no matter what fridge you have - here is a link to some info on Proteng And, the fridge doesn't need to be removed to install. Bill

Have you ever seen any statistics on this? No doubt that there are some RV's that have burned with the absorption fridge as the source, but I'd guess that there are also some RV's that have 12 volt electric and/or compressor fridges that were the source too. I'd also guess that the number of absorption fridges that have cause fires is very small relative to the number of them on the road. But, even though I've seen a few videos on the subject I've never actually seen statistics that show exactly how dangerous or not dangerous any of the fridges are in the real world. Bill p.s. It sounds to me that in this case the "problem" is electrical and has little to nothing to do with what type of fridge it is.

An arc between two contacts could cause the sizzling you heard, but, most likely that would not explain the odor. It is possible that some insulation on the wires melted due to heat generated by an arc but I wouldn't bet on it. I'd try like heck to locate the area that had the arc and the area that produced the sizzling/melted wire insulation before I turned the fridge back on. And, I'd make sure that the area is dry. Of course you know that you can pull the fridge off via the off switch, circuit breaker/fuse so that you can still have power to the rest of your Ollie. Good luck! Bill

AND - Jason comes through once again - Thanks for making our season bright and jolly too. Bill

Now - that's interesting. I thought that Oliver wired these external ports directly to the batteries. From what I can see in the pics above it appears to me that the external port wires are being spliced into others that are coming off a circuit breaker which in turn goes to the batteries. If I'm correct then what I'd do is take the Zamp port off, test the wires (just to make absolutely sure) for "positive" and negative" with a multi-meter and then attach the wires to the appropriate terminals on the Anderson. Bill

Tough life - but - someone simply has to do it! Either way, I'd still suggest that email. If it is too late to get it on the schedule for 2024, it will be on the list for 2025. If it happens in 2024 and you can't be there, I'll be sure to take notes for you and/or (sometimes) Oliver makes recordings of some of the presentations that you could see at a later time. Bill

John - While there are some good suggestions in the replies above, part of your question (I assume) is asking about an "official" presentation at the Rally giving information of the subject being discussed here in this thread on the Forum. If that is the case, I'd suggest that you send Rodney Lomax an email requesting a session at the Rally in which this topic is discussed. I know that (at least in the past) Oliver has been looking for suggestions exactly like this. Bill p.s. Rodney's email address is: rlomax@olivertraveltrail

Or, you could give a call/email to the Oliver Service department and ask what they used back when your Hull was born. Bill

I suspect that (as I think GJ alluded to earlier) one would have to get the person that set up/manufactured each component of the system to sit down together with all the others and have a discussion as to exactly how each was programed or at least the way that piece was supposed to work. Perhaps a flow chart of sorts for each would help. Without that I don't see that it would be possible to fully understand each without reverse engineering it. Bill

GJ - And, I repeat - I like the way you think.🤔 Bill

"A horse is a horse of course, of course" I wouldn't exactly say on a "regular basis". Certainly there are members here that have a much bigger "inside straight" than I do. But, to answer your question, yes, that is part of the plan. Prospective owners will also be encouraged to actually visit Hohenwald for a plant tour and can arrange to pick up their new Ollie at either the Mothership or at the dealer with no difference in price on the unit they purchase. Bill