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topgun2

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Everything posted by topgun2

  1. Can you get a picture of it? Bill
  2. Not that I didn't believe Seadawg - but - I have never seen the "spring hooks" sold separately. So, HERE they are on Amazon. Yeah!😇 Bill
  3. Yes, even for the 2016 OLEII we received (2) 10' sections.😁 I still have mine - new, never been out of the box. Black tank is getting a bit full though 😉. Bill
  4. Absolutely! In addition: Add either an additional spring or secure the screen with a stainless steel wire . Both of these can be tedious to do but the springs supplied with the screen normally rust and break after three to five years of use. (Ask me how I know...🙄 Bill
  5. Nicely done and wonderful write-up. I can attest to the holding power of those HF suction cups. I hang waders and wading boot using them and have never had a single issue. Note that the color of the suction cups helps in not forgetting to remove them prior to departure.😃 Bill
  6. OH - Measure your openings and then go HERE. Bill
  7. Nan - I assume that you are asking about the frames for the screening? Have you contacted Oliver Service in this regard? Bill
  8. Kathy & John - What are the odds - but - good for you two! Welcome to the Family and enjoy the heck out of that wonderful camper. Bill
  9. Yes - assuming that you have the "standard" air conditioner, the condensate will flow from the overhead a/c unit down a tube that is located between the shells and exits at the bottom of the Oliver via a short tube at the rear street side. While operating in humid conditions you should see water dripping from this tube. While at the recent Owner's Rally I observed this very thing happening on my Elite II. Bill
  10. It has happed from time to time in the past but I would not call it very often. Since you have already received a replacement from Oliver Service, they are now aware of your issue and a few others that have had the same problem in the recent past. They will process this information and take steps to either correct installation procedures and/or material components if it is found to be a often recurring issue. Bill
  11. Year before last I was camped at Pebble Creek in Yellowstone and the two ladies next to me showed me their white Tundra with a big dent in the driver's side door. That dent was caused by a bull bison as he walked past and just slowly moved his head to one side - ouch! Bill
  12. Yep - after and hour I'm cold unless I forgot to close a window, the MaxAir and/or the bath fan.🤪 Since you are in the West I assume that you have not noticed a reduction in humidity levels or noticed a drip from the little hose on the exterior rear street side of the Ollie? Bill
  13. I believe that the answer is NO. If you look closely at the Andersen you will notice that the "whale tail" attaches to the underside of the assembly. Actually, there is a continuous "shaft" that extends from the ball of the hitch through a housing and comes out at the bottom to which the whale tail attaches. It is this shaft rubbing against friction material inside the housing that allows for the "anti-sway" portion of the Andersen. I'm sure that the Weigh Safe is not constructed in this manner.
  14. If it doesn't rain - try some of THIS STUFF. Bill p.s. Another old motorcycle trick - particularly for those places that have rubber components in or around them like your mud flaps is - the night before you plan to wash the vehicle liberally spray it with virtually any "protectorant" (even Armor-All will do since you are going to wash it off anyway). Then the next day wash as normal. The protectorant softens up the critters and after washing still leaves a nice appearance on the rubber without turning "brown" over time.
  15. Trainman - A little piece of black electrical tape takes care of that TV light. Bill
  16. The National Museum of Transportation in St. Louis is another basically train heaven. It can be found HERE. Bill
  17. There are a number of these marine 12 volt dimmer switches available (like THESE on Amazon). In my 2017 Elite II I had the switch mounted just aft of the secondary set of cabin switches on the curb side above the bed. My dimmer has a "on/off" button, a "+" and a "-" button (for increasing light or decreasing light). It has worked great except that it is wired such that ALL lights - both interior and exterior - are dimmed or brightened by this switch. This means that if I want to have the interior lights dimmed I also get the exterior lights dimmed - such as the courtesy lights outside. There are times when this is desirable but it would be nice to be able to control these separately. I'm certain that this means that the dimmer was placed on the main "positive supply" line that runs to the main switch panel near the front door. Since I had Service do the install I'm not certain as to the way the wiring was done. However, I doubt very seriously that this was difficult and I do know that there is a main bundle of wires that run under the black mat inside the cubbies that extends from the attic all the way up to the front door. I would guess that the most difficult part of this install would be to cut the hole for the dimmer - that fiberglass is tough! I'll post pictures when I get my home computer repaired - hopefully tomorrow. Bill note: This dimmer switch does nothing for those LED's that are on the radio, fridge, TV, etc. that JD originally posted about. Here are those pics:
  18. Shortly after picking up my Ollie, I took it back and asked Service to install an electronic dimmer switch. It works great but it does nothing to all those LED lights scatter about - the fridge, the radio, the fan (when on), etc. I did place a small piece of electrical tape over that LED on the TV! Certainly this "Light Dims" product can help. Bill
  19. Let me know if you have questions. A warm welcome to the Family! Bill
  20. That's great - I assume that you were told about the "test" that is coming soon?😄 Seriously, good meeting you at the Rally and hope that I didn't overwhelm you. Certainly is a good looking rig and hope to see you two again on the road! Bill
  21. I'll let the Stone Stomper guys speak about that. Mud flaps have to be custom made for the Ollie and I'm not aware of anyone selling copies of what they have done. A number of owners including me have applied automotive type clear film to the front exposed and elsewhere where rocks might hit. In most cases due to the curves involved these films are applied by a "professional". I'm certain that this could be arranged in virtually all medium and large cities. Even Columbia, TN might be big enough. If you go that route then plan on the installer having your Ollie for at least a day. Also, if you can get it, ask for 10mm film as it is a little thicker and therefore gives more protection. At a minimum I'd suggest that you plan on applying a good coat of wax to - at least - the front of the Ollie and those areas underneath where tar, road dirt and other stuff could get thrown by your tires - the wax will make cleaning it once you get home easier. Unless you plan on traveling on gravel/dirt roads on this first trip, your new baby should not be too bad when you get home. But that is what I always think with a new vehicle of any sort and am usually disappointed when I find that first dink😒. Bill
  22. As you probably already know - they say that they make any shape for any RV. Have you called them? Bill
  23. Well, I interpreted the question to mean he was referring to the "standard 400 watt 120 volt accessory plug usually located in the bed of some pickup models. Bill
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