topgun2

Seriously - a very small amount of wax, silicone, WD-40, petroleum jelly, etc on each of those 4 tabs will go a long way in helping to "snap" the screen back in place. I always place the bottom in first and then tap the top of the screen near where those spring tabs are until it snaps in. Bill

Another possibility is that the "roped deer" was just getting even for what some dumb farmer did to him? Or, like ScubaRx says - look at ALL the connections on your tank sensors and power to the display. Bill

Some lessons in life are learned the HARD way.

Yes, yes, yes. Glad that you are OK and that the Ollie did what it was supposed to do. Talk about a hooked up Ollie. That pic sure does make your Oliver look soooooo in tune with the times. Very nice! Bill

Put it in as close to the handle as you can and then - once it is in - you can "slide" it into position. Bill

I learned to sail on Chesapeake Bay - many fond memories. Crab cakes at a little dive in that big town of Suicide, MD after a day on the water🙂. Enjoy your new baby and welcome to the Family! The next time you are backing up your Ollie and thinking that it is a bit of a problem - recall those days trying to dock with a raging wind and terrible current. Land yachting is easier. Bill

Imelda - Here on the Forum there are numerous threads concerning wheel bearings. It is fairly well recognized that Timken bearings are about the best out there but there is some difficulty in making sure that you actually do get the Timken bearings that you pay for. I'd suggest typing "Timken" in the search box and start reading. If you are not as concerned about the quality of the bearings that you will be using or you simply want to make sure that you have an extra set with you on the road in the event something unfortunate happens then you can purchase something like the bearings below: Bill

One additional thought - Yes, the control board of the fridge also needs a small amount of battery power to keep the fridge running. This control board is what allows the fridge to "know" when to supply power to the igniter, when to turn the ignitor off, when to alert you that something is wrong or right, etc. But, again, like the igniter itself, the control board takes very little battery power.

Once you have "filled" the main propane supply line with the method I suggested then there still could be a small amount of air in the relatively short line that goes to the fridge. But, that air will be expelled by the propane without difficulty. Your fridge will ALWAYS use your batteries for ignition of the propane since there is no "standing" pilot light - the fridge and your furnace both use electronic ignitors. Make sure that you are not confusing running your fridge on propane versus trying to run it on DC (straight battery power) The electronic ignitors take very little battery energy BUT when you run the fridge on straight DC they take a bunch of power out of the batteries. Easily - propane is the most efficient and best cooling for these fridges. Bill

Bleeding air from the propane lines is simple: 1. Make sure that your propane tank(s) are turned on - the valve on the top of each tank) 2. Go inside the Ollie to the cooktop. 3. With a match of lighter in hand and flame at a burner on the cooktop, turn on that burner. When it lights you have basically bled the system of air. Many times you simply can not see any flame on the fridge. This is particularly so during daylight. When first turning on a fridge after a period of having it shut down, I'll make sure that it is turned on inside (auto or propane) and immediately go outside and place my ear near the lower fridge vent. There will be "clicking" sounds and then when the burner lights you should hear a "woosh" sound as the burner ignites. After that the fridge pretty much just does its thing. Bill

Do you mean: 1. attach the fresh water hose to the camper and supply faucet 2. flush toilet 3. open each faucet inside until clear water comes out OR do you mean that you also sanitized the system?

Easily within 24 hours for both the fridge and the freezer. Do what ScubaRX mentions or if you do not feel comfortable with having the propane on while you are not with the camper then wait until you bring it home the day before you leave to get to the Rally. If you are leaving directly from your storage location to get to the Rally then have all of your food well chilled and/or frozen, turn on your propane and fridge as soon as you get to the storage yard and hit the road. Another hint: while you have your fridge in storage, keep both the doors (the fridge door and the freezer door) open and take some crumpled newspaper (10 sheets are more than enough) and place them inside. The newspaper will keep odors from forming in the fridge. Obviously, take the newspaper out before turning on the fridge and freezer for your trip. Bill

Exactly what his wife says!😁

When you "cover" the solar panels the rays of the sun do not hit the cells of the panels and, therefore, they do not convert sunlight into electricity. Having said this - if you go outside and put a sheet over your head and look towards the sun, you will most likely be able to "see" a bit of the sun through the sheet (of course assuming that the sun is shining 😁). This shows that depending on the density of the material covering the panels - some solar energy (light) is likely able to get through the fabric that is covering them. I don't know exactly how much is getting through your CalMark cover, but, I'm certain that it is not a lot. Perhaps it would be enough to keep parasitic draws at bay but most likely it would not be enough to continually power much else let alone put any significant charge into your batteries. Bill

"similar"? Yes, perhaps. But, if you ever have a chance to tour ScubaRx's Ollie - DO IT! I don't think that it is like any other Ollie out there. Bill

Simply place your cursor on the blue highlighted @ScubaRxand when a new window look for "message". Click on that and start typing and then click on send. Bill

Well - CalMark covers were originally Sunbrella material. This material is relatively heavy but has been in use for a number of years. Within the past couple of years CalMark changed to using Weathermax material. This is lighter in weight as compared to Sunbrella and I would assume that it both wears and protects at least as well. There are a bunch of opinions about which is better on the boating forums - simply "google" "which is better Sunbrella or Weathermax?" Certainly time will give us the real answer. From my experience I can tell you that it will be MUCH easier to place the Weathermax cover on an Elite II. Just getting the Sunbrella cover onto the roof is almost too much for one person. Bill

At this point it would appear that you are on the right track in getting to the bottom of your troubles. This tech should be able to tell you fairly quickly if you need to replace - anything. If you have not already done so - turn off your solar panels or put something (a moving blanket or opaque tarp) over the panels so that they will not be generating any power. This is for your protection and would help prevent any "shorts" that could cause a fire. I'd also unplug from shore power unless you have to have power for some reason. The "key" to understanding electricity in your camper is to understand each of the separate and combined systems that potentially provide power to it. Your batteries can be thought of as the heart of the system with BOTH the solar panels and the shore power providing energy that is stored in those batteries. Power (electricity) continues to come into the camper via either and/or both systems unless one or the other or both are disabled in some way. Shore power is the easiest in that if you unplug from a shore power outlet - that stops the electricity from entering the camper/batteries from that source. The solar panels will generate electricity as long as they are getting light - yes, they will produce electricity even when indoors and the building's lights are on. If you have one of the big red solar disconnect switches then it can be used to "turn off" the solar panels - note here that this switch really doesn't turn off the solar panels but only stops the current from proceeding any further down the line (wires) - reread the previous sentence about panels producing electricity. So, shore power provides electricity to your batteries and solar power provides electricity to your batteries and (in most circumstances) your tow vehicle can provide electricity to your batteries. These sources are all "controlled" individually - solar controller adjusts voltage and amount of current from the solar panels, your vehicle has a voltage regulator and your camper has a manager for all of these sources to include shore power - someone (something has to be the "traffic cop") has to manage things so that neither too much nor too little is given to your batteries and/or is used by you such that you potentially overload the wiring in your camper (very much like the circuit breakers in your house). Try to understand one system at a time and it should be easier. And, in any case where you are forced to work with electricity in the camper, be sure to remember that you have at least two if not three sources that will need to be disabled prior to any work or you risk unpleasant things happening. When in doubt - get advice BEFORE proceeding! As you are presently doing with your tech. Bill

WOW - you are really trying to test my memory! It has been a couple of years since I had the microwave out and in - but - as I remember it - I pulled the rubber mat out of the cabinet above the microwave, got the plug through the hole on the inside of the microwave cabinet and then gently pulling on the cord while moving the cord back and forth, I found that there was one spot that allowed me to get that plug up into the upper cabinet. Note - I did not have to force it but it was snug. In reversing the process I basically took a wire coat hanger, again through the hole in the microwave cabinet, up through the "slot", wrapped the new microwave cord and coat hanger together and brought the cord back down into the microwave cabinet. Hopefully that will get you where you need to be. Bill

There are a bunch of "pro's and con's" concerning the EZ Lube feature. Bottom line is - yes - there is no easy way to properly grease bearings and that certainly includes the EZ Lube. Once you know how to do the job - it really isn't very difficult. BUT - it is always very messy! One can grease those zerks without jacking up the camper at all - at least if one is your size 😇. It is a little tight and you have to learn to move like a snake, but, knowing that the camper isn't going to fall on you helps a bunch with the "peace of mind". No easy way of getting the grease COMPLETELY in and around all of those little bearings. I still use the tried and true hand packing method. Once you get past the idea of how long its going to take to get your hands degreased, its not so bad. Besides, for the next day or so your hands will be soooooo soft and smooth (assuming that you're not wearing gloves). Yep! I've always felt that now that you know how these things work and how the job is supposed to be done you are in a much better position to know when and/or if things are not "right" - " the way that they should be". Knowledge is a great thing - it is a shame that sometimes it is so difficult/messy to earn/learn. You should take great pride in the fact that you tackled this job and now "know". In the immortal words of "Ice", "you (Topgun) can be my wingman anytime". Bill

HERE is that Forum thread that I mentioned above. The RAM mount that comes off the Built-right is solid as a rock. Certainly this same type of system for mounting could also be used for the small GPS. Bill

p.s. If you are really interested in this Built-right mount, there area couple of threads here on the Forum about it and how to install it. Bill

I'm guessing that your 2017 Ford Expedition has a dashboard design that is very similar to my 2017 Ford F-150. If that is the case - I mounted my TPMS on the driver's side "A" pillar (top) and dash (bottom). The Garmin is mounted via the rack detailed below. My cell phone is in a cup holder mount and my tablet resides on the large arm rest that is between the seats. The radar detector is suspended from the headliner and the dashcam is behind the rearview mirror while the Garmin InReach Mini also resides just behind the rack that holds the Garmin GPS. All of this is without obstructing the view out of the windshield and/or the instruments on the dash or controls. Before I had the 890, my old 2797 (5x7 inch screen) was simply mounted on a "bean bag mount" and placed in that tray where I now have the rack.

To make absolutely certain - I'd ask Jason Essary (Oliver Service Dept). Bill

I personally think that this is a good rule to follow even if you have the "standard", "old style", "regular" bearings. Bill