CRM

I was getting clunking even before I started using the front jack to raise the TV. One of these fixed it right up. Rhino USA Hitch Tightener

To prevent this from happening, I removed the bolts that hold the TV bracket to frame and drilled 1/4 holes to accept quick release pins. Takes seconds to remove the TV and cables and then I lay it flat on one of the beds before travelling. Also makes it easy to remove and bring indoors while we're not camping.

Upon further review- While the Amazon site doesn't show any certifications, I decided to check the ETL website and the Airplus *is* ETL certified! No idea why they wouldn't include that in their specs... I hereby remove my red flag @Ollie-Haus. ETL listing

We don't travel with one, so I don't know what else is out there that meets those specs. When not traveling I keep a 22 pint Frigidaire on the shower floor that continuously drains but it's a little too big for a countertop.

Looks like a re-badged Greenland/Turbro and I think you'll be the first one here to install one of these. Planning on buying one myself if/when the price comes back down.

Yes, 2" up from unhitched height. Once chains are snug at this height you should get plenty of tension when you lower the jack. If your TV isn't sitting level when you're done you might have to repeat the procedure by jacking a little higher before snugging the chains. So far I've used the 2" height on two separate vehicles and it worked perfectly for each.

I've found the easiest way to get the adjustment "just right" is to couple to the TV and then use the front jack to jack the back of the TV up about 2" . I then snug up the chains just enough to take the slack out of them before lowering the jack back down which then adds the needed tension to the chains and keeps the TV sitting level. Seems to work out perfectly every time and there's no tightening force applied to the nut and threads. Edit: This method works great in reverse, too. Just jack up little higher than when you first attached and the whale tail will fall right off after pulling the pin.

It would be very interesting to see if it works with the Houghton units. Hopefully someone with one will see your solution and give it a shot.

This is from the description on their Amazon store- "Product Usage Instructions: Breez Max connects to a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network. It is compatible with any mini-split, window or portable unit that has an IR remote control. If your device doesn't work out of the box, please contact Cielo Customer Support to make it compatible." Looks like any unit that works with an IR remote has a good chance of working with this thermostat. Might have to start a new thread at some point to track what other AC units it actually does work with? Thanks again for this.

That seems like a perfect solution to the "always on" fan issue! Shouldn't this thermostat work for other units that have a remote control to control them?

So, if I'm understanding this correctly, this thermostat shuts down the fan and compressor together by sending a "shutdown" signal to the unit by mimicking off button on the unit's remote?

I understand all this, I was just wondering how you came up 17 pounds being the minimum weight. I would hope that if Alcan designs a spring with a 2000# rating that it would perform as expected and exceed what is required for an LE2 no matter the weight of it. I'm running on 16 year old springs at the moment, that thankfully don't show any of the typical Dexter flattening near the eyes, but want to upgrade soon myself and I'm a little worried about installing springs rated for nearly double the weight we usually travel at. 2000# Alcan's seem like a perfect match but now I'm a little nervous and and asking questions due to your opinion on the weight of them...

Interesting, though I don't think I could ever get used to the looks of it...

Why the focus on the weight of the spring and where does this number come from? I admit that I know nearly nothing about leaf spring tech, but shouldn't the weight rating of the spring and the quality of the steel and construction be all that really matters?

Still a better option than mine. Same monthly price but you're getting a dedicated tracking device.

Looks good, though for the $7 per month subscription you only get notified once per hour when it's moving. To get one minute notifications it costs $15 per month with a yearly contract.

I was thinking about doing that myself but I read if someone is traveling close to it for a while their phone will be alerted that there's an air tag near them.

I have an Android phone hidden in the attic and use the Google "Find Hub" app to show the location. Have the phone on a Mint Mobile 5gb monthly plan for $15 per month for connectivity. Seems to work well and shows real time location, though it does have it's limitations. The phone can shut down if it overheats and can also possibly lockup at any point and need rebooting. So far neither has happened though I do reboot it fairly often. I should probably move to a dedicated tracking device and look forward to hearing what others here are using.

Interesting... What brand is this?

Well, that's not the case anymore... Inquired about a month or so ago and they said they wouldn't send one out for free anymore. They are more than happy to sell me one for $237.00 dollars though! 😲

This is where the WiFiRanger or Cradlepoint routers if you have one, come in handy. We use ours as a local network to connect all our devices together even when there isn't WiFi available at a campground.

Ok, now I think I understand what you're talking about. I was breaking it down into a simple DC circuit in my brain and not thinking about the charging aspect (like i should have) which is where your scenario of taking the B+ off the battery and shorting it makes sense. That said, I still the Optifuse breaker shown above would trip in this scenario since they react to current flowing through them and break thermally. The breaker in my Ollie doesn't even have B+ and load terminals on it which is what I would expect if it were directional. I did see where there are directional breakers available but they all seem to work magnetically instead. I do agree with you that fuses are the way to go, though, and will definitely be using them when I finally get around to installing solar.

Do you have a digital volt/ohm meter? If so, you can do a voltage drop test of your cables and connections while under load to determine what is causing the excessive draw to trip your breaker. If only the breaker is getting warm I would test across both terminals of it first. With a 1000 watt load and using the millivolts scale on your meter you should read less than 15mV. Much more over that and the breaker is bad.

I would like to learn more about this "bidirectional" protection. I realize fuses and breakers operate differently, have different reaction times, have their own strengths and weaknesses, etc.. but I've never heard anyone talk about their directionality in a DC circuit where the flow is only in one direction. Both respond to the amount of current flowing through them and I'm just having a hard time wrapping my head around this one.

I have an HDMI cable that connects my phone to the TV. I'm sure there are other ways but it's probably going to be tricky if the phone and TV are not on the same WiFi network. You might also want to try setting up your phone as a WiFi hotspot and then connecting your tv to it.