CRM

I'll be picking one up for sure as soon as I see the price drop a little. I really should have picked one up when they were in the $1,200 dollar range based on the inverter technology alone... One thing for certain, the second I buy one another even more efficient one will hit the market!

I think it is purposely designed to run continuously the majority of the time and to keep a steady temp / humidity level which is exactly what I've been looking for. The mostly steady state running at a MUCH lower watts *should* equate to less stress on the unit as compared to the typical non-invertor AC's frequent start/stop of the compressor and the surge amps encountered each time. Being fairly new there's really no way to know the reliability yet for sure, but a 3 year warranty makes the gamble worth it to me. Personally, I also don't worry about the unit testing a little low on BTU's at max since I'm running a Coleman Mach 9600 BTU unit that has no problem keeping our LE2 cool and humidity low. It also tested higher than the Dometic that he replaced.

Your watt numbers closely match those seen in this test of the Turbro unit (which I assume is the same as the Pioneer) when it is throttled down into the 8000 BTU range. It has a crazy good EER of 18 at that BTU range and I bet it will run at that lower level in an LE2 in most situations once set temperature is met. They only recorded a max watt draw of 1100 watts while running at full capacity which is also a crazy good number. Thanks for sharing this info... I'm just waiting and hoping for a sale on one now.

I would like to see this too. The specs for that unit call for cooling input power of 850 ~ 1500W so I'm guessing the compressor was operating at the lower end of it's capacity with the low watts he was seeing. Don't see how it's possible to get 13500 BTU's from 500-700 watts but I'd love to be wrong on that! The EER rating would need to be the the 20 range for that low of a watt draw.

Wow, that's a pretty low draw and I'm now leaning even harder towards purchasing one of these myself. If you ever get the chance to run it on a lower temp night (in the 70's or so with humidity on the high side) I'd love to know how it manages controlling the humidity. I'm hoping the invertor compressor will able to throttle down low enough to continue running and remove humidity without cycling the compressor on and off.

Sadly, most of the major interstates here in Florida have had tolled sections on them for decades. We also have more miles of toll roads than any other state.... On the plus side, our monthly E-ZPass bill has forced me to drastically cut back on my beer consumption. Thanks Florida!

Well, you're definitely going to need a inch pounds torque wrench, and you can probably get the torque specs off the breaker installation or spec sheet.

One more for you- Toyota, Tundra, TRD Off Road, 2020, 4X4, 5.7, 4.30 axle, Towing Package with 38 gallon tank, LE2, Hull 45

Yep, I have a 2020 Tundra with 4.30 gears and it pulls the LE2 without any problems at all. It does share the same issue that most Tundra's have which is low payload, but we travel light and pack most things inside of the camper anyway.

Yeah, 4.7 didn't come in that year. Probably the best engine Toyota ever made, though... just a little short on ponies.

Well, I certainly wouldn't leave it in long enough to get stiff. Felt tighter and buckled slightly after it was installed and warmed back up, so I'm glad I did it.

I'm with you... as long as they are DIY, made of glass and open far enough to make me happy. My windows are already getting "the fog" and I'd rather put the money to repair them towards these new windows if the satisfy my needs.

I think you meant "cooling".. but believe me I think it makes a difference. I put my in the freezer and then forced (compressed) it in as hard as I could and now it's fits just about perfect. Pretty sure I'd have at least a small gap if I hadn't done it this way.

I recommend buying them in black. They don't get moldy, well maybe they do but at least it doesn't show... I also recommend putting them in the freezer a little while to shrink them and then fit them in as tightly as you can when you install them. I used this method a while back and no stains or shrink gaps yet.

They definitely look identical, but what is interesting is that the Pioneer has a 3 year warranty while the Turbro only has 1.

So far the Rhino has been working fine, but I don't have a ton of miles on it. I'll order these today. Thanks!

The receiver used in the video is from my 02 Tundra that I only use to tow my Hobie kayak, though the play is identical in our Sequoia and 2020 Tundra both which have heavier duty factory receivers. 2020 Tundra in the shop, and wife gone with the Sequoia... Also, same exact hitch, just had it in upside down making the video. Edit to add video from Sequoia receiver. new.mp4

Here's the slop I'm dealing with... b0ab04c9-bdd0-40b2-9d67-d2a3d061489d.mp4

Fully understand what you're saying, but it did happen for me before the hitch tightener, and my chains are always tight enough to stand on with little rto no movement and it doesn't happen now. Maybe it was side to side movement inside the receiver?

Without the hitch tightener I had some clunking even with the chains fully loaded. Only happened over humps in the road and during start/stops, but it was there. Edit: Thinking about it.. isn't there really only upward force on the Anderson hitch inside the receiver of the the TV when the chains are tight? With a sloppy fit you could still get movement at times.

I was getting clunking even before I started using the front jack to raise the TV. One of these fixed it right up. Rhino USA Hitch Tightener

To prevent this from happening, I removed the bolts that hold the TV bracket to frame and drilled 1/4 holes to accept quick release pins. Takes seconds to remove the TV and cables and then I lay it flat on one of the beds before travelling. Also makes it easy to remove and bring indoors while we're not camping.

Upon further review- While the Amazon site doesn't show any certifications, I decided to check the ETL website and the Airplus *is* ETL certified! No idea why they wouldn't include that in their specs... I hereby remove my red flag @Ollie-Haus. ETL listing

We don't travel with one, so I don't know what else is out there that meets those specs. When not traveling I keep a 22 pint Frigidaire on the shower floor that continuously drains but it's a little too big for a countertop.

Looks like a re-badged Greenland/Turbro and I think you'll be the first one here to install one of these. Planning on buying one myself if/when the price comes back down.