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jd1923

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Posts posted by jd1923

    Refrigerator Cooling Fan

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Ronbrink said:

    I recently installed the Beech Lane dual fans and was able to run wires from the interior cabinet, above the microwave/Norcold, down and behind both units for the fan control panel/harness and power connections in the upper and lower exterior vent/cover areas, respectively...

    Makes sense and thank you. After being in the microwave cabinet for our oven install, it seemed you could get around it as you did.

    Question: do you use the Beech Lane controller much? Wondering is after you get it where you want it, does it need to change. Hoping you don't need to mess with it much, and if so i may install it behind the lower vent opening.

    I'm thinking of running new 14 AWG automotive wire (I have spools) from the junction down below (mine has a junction that I do not see you your pic, I will show later) up to the switch in the light panel and then back down to the upper vent area for the fans. This way I still have the switch, all new wiring and the junction down below looks like 8 AWG, at least 10, and it showed 13.6V.

    I like the specs on the Beech Lane better than the Titan and there are so many to choose from. It looks big, but the height should just fit. I like the lower 1800 RPM and the 25 dB rating and IP65 rating. Thanks again!

    2024 Texas Oliver Rally

    in Events & Rallies

    Posted

    I realize it's early, as our Texas Rally is still over 3 months away. Will there be an attendee list created? Love to see a draft when it's ready. Thank you @Donna and Scott and others helping. This will be our first chance to meet other Oliver owners! Looking forward to this meet. 😂

    Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    16 minutes ago, DunnYet said:

    I don't see how the compressor fridge will work safely without some type of external venting.

    or any fridge! Not to worry now until you hit sea level and warmer temps. Enjoy the High Country while you’re there and don’t go to lower elevation, until goin’ home. We were 94 in Prescott today, 115 in Phoenix!

    I will link my new thread here, soon re a cooling fan for the fridge. That’s all you need, just enjoy the Rockies in the meantime. Stay High and stay cool! Yeah

    • Love 1

    Refrigerator Cooling Fan

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    Did some testing today. It's only 95 out, must be 115 down in Phoenix, yuk!

    Yes, as @rideandfly and @mossemi mentioned there is a simple thermal switch screwed into the top RHS of the condenser. It was difficult to get a reading before the switch on the bottom end, so I pulled both female spade connectors.

    Voltage readings were odd, most prevalent number was about 4.3V and it read as high as 5.5V and sometimes lower too, weird. No where near 12V and this is a 12V fan. I made a spade jump wire to connect the fan, bypassing the thermal switch. The fan would not run at all even giving it a quick push start. The switch from the light switch panel was working, going from 4.3V to zero and back with the switch.

    I used the ground from the junction below with the heavy gauge yellow and the light blue wire to the fan. It looked to be connected properly as @DavePhelps had suggested checking. Testing B+ and B- at the junction box read 13.6V which is the same number the Victron app shows for the house batteries. What the heck? What would produce 4V or 5V and not 12V? Is the wiring so old and worn it has become one big resistor? Hope not, which could cause a fire.

    So, the easy fix for $90 is to replace this fan with the Titan or Beech Lane dual fans that other owners have done. I would not be able to use the switched power since it is not delivering 12V. I could run new wire from the junction below. In AUTO mode do these turn on-n-off with temp? I would mount the control box behind one of the panels, not in the upper cabinet as one post showed unless it can be fished there w/o going through the microwave cabinet, as I just insulated that cabinet for an oven. Can the ON/OFF temp settings be adjusted on these? I would hate to bypass the switch. Maybe I can run +12V up to the switch panel and back down. Any ideas are appreciated as always! Thanks

    • Like 1

    Grease fittings issue

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted · Edited by jd1923

    4 hours ago, BoondockingAirstream said:

    I found it 'easier' to remove the each wheel to get a straight shot at the zerk by jacking up each side for access and removing each wheel...

    Exactly, this is why I have not changed Zerks to 90s or turned the bolts inside out so the Zerks point to the inside (not crawling under either). I would rather jack up one side, use the air gun and quickly remove both wheels. Inspect each tire and remove any gravel. Check the brake action and tighten adjusters if needed. Check the wheel bearings and repack only if needed.

    Then without the weight of the wheels and tires, and a basic grease gun pointed straight on, all 8 Zerks take grease easily. Clean off all excess grease and replace caps on the fittings. When this final step is ignored, the fittings can get stuck and then use a thin punch to push ball end in Zerk, remove fitting to clean if really bad. Remount wheels and work the other side!

    • Like 1

    Refrigerator Cooling Fan

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    16 hours ago, Wayfinder said:

    Yes, #110 has the exact setup pictured above.  Mike (forget last name) at the AL rally told me how to test my fan and power leading to it.  I found that no matter what, there is no power going to the fan.  I tested the switch and it appears to work as expected.  I have not bothered to pull out the fridge, and/or microwave, to figure out there the disconnect is yet.  I've lived with the fan off since I owned the trailer.  I will be asking Oliver which to pull out first to trace the wire.  I figure it's the fridge.  Again, not knowing where it's connected in the cabinet.  I wonder if it ever worked, even for the first owner.

    Chris, since you're visiting OTT very soon. You could just have them test and fix yours quickly! There should not be a reason to pull the fridge.

    • Like 1

    Refrigerator Cooling Fan

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    17 hours ago, mossemi said:

    Hull 193 also has a fan switch on the main switch panel in the entry area.  It is placed in the 12v B+ supply path to the fan.  There is also an inline thermostat on the output side of the switch.  My B- travels from the fan to the bottom left of the refrigerator compartment and connects to the 12v ground of the refrigerator.  My thermostat was originally attached to the right end of the horizontal condenser fins just below the red B+ wire disappearing on the right side of the picture in your post.  If you have a fan control thermostat it should be located on the red wire. Mossey

    Thanks to all who have replied, very helpful! Mossey, this is very clear. Made me think yeah Duh, I can catch a ground in the lower section. Seeing the thermal switch makes me think the female spade connector on the red fan wire is connecting to it on the right side of the top opening. I will have time by today or tomorrow for testing the fan. Wonder if I can use a blow dryer to activate the thermal switch. I'll let you know.

    • Like 2

    Roadpass

    in Campgrounds & Parks

    Posted

    13 hours ago, mossemi said:

    I found it exasperating to use in its newest format and I switched to…

    I’ve found so many things in life exasperating ever since the automobile needed more than gas, air and exhaust, and 12VDC! We don’t need no stinken computer, no sensors. We don’t need Wall Street types to turn a good App into their food chain.

    i can still read a map and most often download BLM maps in the Avenza app, make my own trails, in so many places never listed on these apps. Hope they do not mess up Avenza, but when they do we got our paper maps,

    Where’s Ollie?

    in Campgrounds & Parks

    Posted

    4 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

    Overnighting in Roswell, NM

    Stayed in Roswell a half dozen times in our biannual trips from Georgetown TX to Prescott AZ, over a 10 year period. We didn’t get much into the alien thing, but LOVE Lincoln Co, just two hours west. What a beautiful place up at 7K ft, Lincoln Co, Mt Capitan, Ruidoso NM, and home of Billy the Kid, just145 years ago! 😂

    • Like 2

    Refrigerator Cooling Fan

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted

    In reviewing another post on an Isotherm cooling issue, I realized I should test the condition of the fan in our Oliver. Ours is the original absorption style OEM install of a 2016 hull. It has the oddest thing, a power switch on the light panel. Why a switch, given it should be thermostatically controlled? The ON/OFF switch does not seem to do anything. In fact, I have never heard it run in the 30 days we've been on the road over the last year.

    I went to test for 12VDC. The red wire has a spade connection that I can get to. The blue wire disappears above the fan into the foil taping, looking like it goes internal to some control. Given that's the ground side, I thought I would write here before cutting into it to test for voltage or to bench test the old fan.

    @ScubaRx likely knows how this is designed. How about some of you with 2016 models, like @topgun2 hull 117, or @Wayfinder hull 110 (I know I'm forgetting somebody). Does your hull have this setup like this?

    Light Panel.jpg

    Fridge Fan.jpg

    Convection Oven Upgrade? No let's just replace the MW with an Air Fryer!

    in Ollie Modifications

    Posted

    41 minutes ago, SeaDawg said:

    Glad you like it. Good job on the insulation.  I'm sure it's helpful. 

    I probably would have used stainless vents, to be the same as ours.

    I do love our air fryers, at home. Mini convection oven, without the he whole downstairs heat.

    Thank you, Sherry. Yours and @bugeyedriver's looked like cover plates and I need something that would insert 2" deep so that heat would not go outside the microwave cabinet and behind the wall. There is a ~1/2" gap between. I found SS choices too, but feared the metal would conduct the heat and I wanted the heat to pass through. Yours must have something to seal the inner area when they custom built the early Ollies.

    Convection Oven Upgrade? No let's just replace the MW with an Air Fryer!

    in Ollie Modifications

    Posted · Edited by jd1923

    Ran a valid test today. Had to wait 24 hours for the glue to set on the vents. Cooked hash brown patties for our breakfast today. The Emeril was set on air fryer, 380 degrees for 21 minutes.

    The vents were just warm to the touch, not hot. The RUUVi sensor mounted above the Dometic thermostat on the right upper outer wall of the oven went up just one degree, kicked the A/C on. The cabinet facing, in front just above the oven, was a little warmer than the vents, yet I could still rest the back of my hand on it NP. The kitchen cabinet above was not hot at all due to the heat insulation wrap installed. 

    I'd say this mod passed the test! 😂 We can now have crispy air-fried foods on the road, no setup time dragging a heavy oven out of storage, no extra time cleaning up. This way, we will likely use it daily when camping, like the larger Emeril we have in our home kitchen.

    Anybody else interested in this oven? Check out the Amazon used price at $80! They also list a "very good" one for $85, that is new but not in original packaging: Amazon.com: Emeril Lagasse Everyday 360 Air Fryer, 360° Quick Cook Technology, XL capacity,12 Pre-Set Cooking Functions including Bake, Rotisserie. Broil, Pizza, Slow Cook, Toaster and Much More, Stainless Steel : Home & Kitchen

    Hash Browns.jpg

    • Like 1
    • Love 1

    Finally! My Batteries and Inverter Now Run My AC!

    in Ollie Modifications

    Posted

    @Ronbrink it would be interesting to see if the reboot changes the voltage readings. I still do not believe that such a reboot requires days waiting.

    When you test after the reboot, connect a quality multimeter at your batteries as a third measurement. I'm guessing the Victron shunt is over-estimating voltage, that the 12.3 may be the better number because the 1400W A/C load (12A) should cause a voltage drop.

    Less likely, it could be the other way around, the 12.3 being a bad reading. Yes, these numbers SHOULD be the same within 0.01V, given the heavy gauge and short distance of the battery cables to the inverter.

    • Thanks 1

    Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted · Edited by jd1923
    Added last sentence

    3 hours ago, DunnYet said:

    with the ambient dropping into the 70s for the last half of the day. The fridge performed better in the lower ambient temps.

    This is informative and I get it about the freezer door. I believe I remember reading a post from @HDRider about replacing a broken door hinge.

    This is what @SeaDawg was pointing to. If your airflow is limited it could act this way. If you find your Isotherm fridge works well at elevation and cool nights, then the fridge is likely OK. Very good work! When you get home, maybe add a cooling fan like others have mentioned on our forum.

    My older hull has an OEM external fan and ON/OFF switch (see pic). Never seen a switch label like this in another RV.

    Light Panel.jpg

    • Thanks 1
    • Like 1

    Isotherm Refrigerator - What are we doing wrong?

    in Mechanical & Technical Tips

    Posted · Edited by jd1923
    shortened

    @SeaDawg yes, we have the old style. I mentioned removing the add-on fan in an earlier post. @DunnYet, we have not heard back re what you may have tried? @topgun2 the fan you showed is what we suggested in removing such device.

    I like a fridge that runs on propane and will likely keep ours for a while. The freezer is large (I read the Isotherm freezer is teeny and that it has cycling issues on many online forums). It fits two of our jumbo ice cube trays, large cubes for special drinks, and it cools a new tray down every night. 😂 

    • Thanks 1
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    12v USB-C socket upgrade

    in Ollie Modifications

    Posted

    But the deal is these models have an OFF switch. No LED lights when off. The caps are dust caps, for exterior use or seldom use. I already cut the caps off in our old sockets (2 of 4, the ones we use with USB connections) since they do not have LEDs and were always dangling, just being in the way.

    Pepwave Cellular Router Installation

    in Ollie Modifications

    Posted

    On 6/26/2024 at 8:55 PM, Steve Morris said:

    My plans is/was to use this bulkhead fitting through the roof as a cable guide and into a utility box on the roof.

    On 6/26/2024 at 10:11 PM, jd1923 said:

    It's up to you, do you want to mount a 6x10" box and blow two tubes of Dicor all over the roof of your beautiful Oliver?

    On 6/27/2024 at 12:03 PM, jd1923 said:

    The Icotek entry solution you were looking at could be installed by drilling two holes with a hole saw...

    7 hours ago, Steve Morris said:

    Overreact much? 

    I received the IcoTek 90° cable entry kit from MMH today. It's going to work great, and I won't need a box.

     Always trying to help, never meaning to offend, regardless the passion of my wordings. 😟 I guess I made my point though.

    The truck installation was actually a bit more complex than the obvious attic location, where you have ample room and pre-wired 12VDC. I just got mine done in two days after thinking it through for a few weeks and waiting on parts.

    It's far superior for me, since we use the truck all year and the Oliver some 30-40 days. I offered my example as an idea for others on our Forum. It made no sense to me to spend $1600 in parts and $50 monthly for a 5G business plan, to use it only 10% of the year. It's OK we have our own reasons and go different directions.

    I'm not interested in remote monitoring of our Oliver, since when we're not traveling, it's parked safely on my property. I learned here that is an important consideration to others. I hope another suggestion I made here re the closet installation will help other Oliver Owners too, for better reception in the TV. Thanks for reading.

    • Like 1
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