Truma Pressure Relief Valve Leaking

[Rich and Jane Walker]

Woke up this morning and found water below Truma compartment. Opened the cover and noticed dripping, then streaming from the pressure relief valve. Any suggestions what problem was and how to correct? Much appreciate any help. 

[dewdev]

First Questions:

1. Are you hooked up to City Water?

2. Are you using a device to keep the incomoing water pressure in the Ollie below 40 psi?

[Rich and Jane Walker]

Yes, we are hooked up to city water. We do not have a regulator. It was not leaking at our previous stop. 
 

I just googled and it says to keep pressure below 40psi and use a regulator- which I don’t have yet. I toggled back the city water spigot and it seems to have stopped. 
 

is it imperative to have a regulator? 
 

thanks for your quick help. Needless to say  was panicked at first being only out second trip out. 

[dewdev]

Yes, it is important to have a pressure regulator. Many campgrounds (and towns) have pressures in the 60 psi range (and more in low lying areas) and can have pressure surges as well. This would be my guess on why your PRV is leaking. 

I use this regulator - https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pressure+regulators&crid=13OLMOH9Q8P79&sprefix=pressure+regulators%2Caps%2C83&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_19

[topgun2]

12 minutes ago, Richard Walker said:

is it imperative to have a regulator? 

Many camping spots have water that is delivered to the spigot at pressures that are higher than you should - safely - use in your Oliver - as @dewdev mentions above.

Another thing you could try would be to "open" that pressure regulator - simply lift the grey tab on the top of the regulator.  This relives the pressure in the "tank and water lines" inside your Oliver.  It also can serve to clear any deposit or debris that may have caused the leak.  Then close the grey back to its original position - note that this relief valve tab is most likely "spring loaded".  Therefore, it should simply "snap" back into place.

Bill

[Rich and Jane Walker]

Thanks to both for the information. I will go out and get a regulator today. Appreciate the help! Greetings from LeFleur Bluffs State park!

[jd1923]

1 hour ago, Richard Walker said:

Yes, we are hooked up to city water. We do not have a regulator.

Our older hull has OEM built-in pressure regulators and backflow preventers on both City and Fresh Tank lines (see pic), not sure if they still do that on your new hull. They do not show the pressure regulators on the plumbing schematics, just the backflow devices.

Because our City Water line is overly restricted, we never use it since the pressure is too low. I do need to get back there, clean the backflows and remove the restrictors to use a true post-mounted pressure regulator instead. We fill the fresh tank regularly and run the water pump for our water. You could try this to see if the drip stops.

However, many have pointed at this reason. I doubt it! Your relief vale is rated at 100 PSI which I can see in the picture. It is made for major steam build-up in the system. I doubt campground water pressure is >100 PSI. You likely need a new valve.

Edited January 1 by jd1923

[Rivernerd]

On 1/1/2025 at 8:48 AM, Richard Walker said:

is it imperative to have a regulator? 

Absolutely.  Water pressure is regulated going in to your home by whatever municipality is providing water service.  Or, if like me you are on a private system, installation of a pressure regulator is "imperative" to prevent over pressure.  Too high pressure can destroy the pipe and fittings in your home water system.

As Dewdev and Topgun2 have explained, "don't leave home" without a pressure regulator for your Oliver, because too many RV campgrounds have poorly designed or installed water (and electrical) systems. 

You might also consider a water filter.  Many campgrounds have water with high mineral content, which can clog your plumbing system.  I have a water filter+pressure regulator assembly that I attach to the City Water inlet before connecting a hose to the campground water supply wherever we park.

Edited February 8 by Rivernerd

[Mike and Carol]

Water pressure will vary by campground.  We’ve been to campgrounds that require a water regulator and had bucket full of basic regulators for those who didn’t have one.  I carry two, one with a gauge that is adjustable and one that has no gauge and regulates to 50 psi.  Once, we had one with a regulator that froze overnight (I didn’t think it would get THAT cold!) and we were happy to have a backup.  The basic ones are not expensive.  Mike

[Geronimo John]

6 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Another thing you could try would be to "open" that pressure regulator - simply lift the grey tab on the top of the regulator.  This relives the pressure in the "tank and water lines" inside your Oliver

Do not do the above scale clearing technique with the water being hot.

Per the picture, the hot water will blast out and likely cause you and possibly others extreme burns.  

I strongly recommend you contact OTT as this is a code violation and should be fixed immediately.  

GJ

 

 

[Rich and Jane Walker]

I have installed the regulator and all seems to be OK. Per your suggestions, will also get a water filter to add to the city line in. Thanks again to everyone for your help. 
 

Thanks to both for the information. I will go out and get a regulator today. Appreciate the help! Greetings from LeFleur Bluffs State park!

[mossemi]

21 hours ago, jd1923 said:

Our older hull has OEM built-in pressure regulators

I learned something new, thanks!

Mossey

[mossemi]

11 hours ago, Richard Walker said:

Per your suggestions, will also get a water filter to add to the city line in.

Also use the pressure regulator on the fresh water fill inlet.  Although there are fewer restrictions on the fresh water fill plumbing, it’s still a good practice.  This would also apply when you start using the filter.

Mossey

[ScubaRx]

On 1/1/2025 at 11:25 AM, jd1923 said:

Our older hull has OEM built-in pressure regulators and backflow preventers on both City and Fresh Tank lines (see pic), not sure if they still do that on your new hull. They do not show the pressure regulators on the plumbing schematics, just the backflow devices.

Our older Hull # 050 does not have the pressure regulators. It does have the back flow preventers in exactly the same places you show in your picture. For the earliest Hulls (say below 300) an owner would need to examine their unit to verify whether they have both or maybe nothing in that section of the rear basement. At that point in construction they were just kind of making it up as they went and there's not a whole lot of consistency. I would expect the latest models have only the back flow preventers but I can't guarantee you where they would be.

Edited January 3 by ScubaRx

[Geronimo John]

Relying on campground supplied water pressure regulation alone has risk to the care free enjoyment of our wonderful Ollie's.   But WHY?

It comes down to physics.  The CG water system typically are sized to accommodate the anticipated max load when built.  Rarely do the owners of the CG plan for much future expansion, pipe scaling, or future site space density of users increase.  So over time the site's water pressure delta between high flow and low flow periods increases.  But WHY?

Increased demands over time, the flow efficiency of the system decreases due to due to flow friction. More friction begets lower flow, and increased static and dynamic pressure differences. The problems start cropping up at those customers at the furthest site from their water main connection.  Low flow complaints lead to the owner reducing the pressure modulation on their end to increase pressure to serve the end of line flow requirements during peak times.  

The Delta Pressure between low and high flows can easily be 25 PSI.  So effectively to be conservative with what pressure you want your Ollie to see is your own water pressure regulator.

Hence, for all of the above reasons, we do not leave city water pressure "on" to Ollie unless we are filling the fresh water tank or using the dedicated black water flush system.  

GJ

[MAX Burner]

Like @mossemi has noted above, the freshwater inlet has fewer "restrictions" than the City Water side (I believe is true in all OTT models) for this, and other boondocking reasons, we've adopted the practice of only using water from our FW tank -- regardless if staying at an established CG with city water hose bibs.  As @Geronimo John has noted in other similar threads, static and dynamic pressures are NOT the same animals even at the same pressure!   One can really "hammer" the OTT system with a dynamic pressure at 40psi ultimately causing leaks or other damage, IMO.   Always SLOWLY crack open the city water valve when using either the FW fill or CW side of the OTT water inlet system, this practice will "soften" the blow of dynamic water pressure on your plumbing system.

FYI, we haul around a "Travel Berkey" water filter system (it lives under the forward dinette seat) and never yet had a problem consuming filtered fresh water from our tank.  We keep the FW Tank sanitized regularly throughout our travels as a standard practice.  Monitoring the CG water pressure going into the City Water inlet with our in-line pressure gauge is another SOP for us which indicates when we need to "throttle-back" the flow via the hose bib valve due to high CG water pressure.  Casablanca has 40psi pressure regulators, but peace of mind is achieved by monitoring the in-line pressure gauge.

For our style of OTT camping, we only connect to the City Water inlet when sanitizing the plumbing system....  my $0.02.

Safe travels, ALL!

[Mike and Carol]

3 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

FYI, we haul around a "Travel Berkey" water filter system (it lives under the forward dinette seat) and never yet had a problem consuming filtered fresh water from our tank.

Art, have you tried the new ceramic Berkey filters?

[jd1923]

4 hours ago, MAX Burner said:

Like @mossemi has noted above, the freshwater inlet has fewer "restrictions" than the City Water side (I believe is true in all OTT models) for this, and other boondocking reasons, we've adopted the practice of only using water from our FW tank

It appears many of us use water from the FWT vs. the City Water inlet. Some of the hulls, ours included, have back flow preventers (check valves) AND restrictors on BOTH incoming water lines (see pic). The restrictor on the FWT fill line takes more time when filling the tank. When using water from the FWT you are past the restrictor.

When using City Water you GPM is being slowed down by the restrictor during use. Once last year, I tried using the City Water inlet. Immediately, Chris cried out, “What’s wrong with the water?” 

Edited February 7 by jd1923
Added pic

[jd1923]

If I could figure out how to my big butt in there (shoulders actually), I would clean the check valves and remove the restrictors. My son Adam is smaller and thinner, so I will get his help this spring!

If using the City Water, a true pressure regulator outside the Oliver is the way to go. Not needed to fill the FWT since pressure cannot be created in an open line. And the tank will fill fast!

Edited February 7 by jd1923

[John Dorrer]

On 1/1/2025 at 10:48 AM, Richard Walker said:

Yes, we are hooked up to city water. We do not have a regulator. It was not leaking at our previous stop. 
 

I just googled and it says to keep pressure below 40psi and use a regulator- which I don’t have yet. I toggled back the city water spigot and it seems to have stopped. 
 

is it imperative to have a regulator? 
 

thanks for your quick help. Needless to say  was panicked at first being only out second trip out. 

YES, it important to have a pressure regulator. Not using one could result in you blowing your water lines apart at connections. A very costly proposition, not to mention a quick end to a trip.

 

The water pressure isn't the same at each campground. Not using one is "high risk, low reward".

Edited February 7 by John Dorrer
Typo

[MAX Burner]

On 2/7/2025 at 9:34 AM, Mike and Carol said:

Art, have you tried the new ceramic Berkey filters?

@Mike and Carol - Hey, Mike:  Just now saw this...  We haven't tried the new ceramic Berkey filters, should we?  We're currently using 4x activated charcoal types with a couple spares under D's dinette seat.

[Mike and Carol]

1 hour ago, MAX Burner said:

@Mike and Carol - Hey, Mike:  Just now saw this...  We haven't tried the new ceramic Berkey filters, should we?  We're currently using 4x activated charcoal types with a couple spares under D's dinette seat.

We haven’t tried them either, they just came out a month or so ago.  We’re using the same as you.

[MAX Burner]

15 minutes ago, Mike and Carol said:

We haven’t tried them either, they just came out a month or so ago.  We’re using the same as you.

Looks like the ceramic filters range in what they can remove, such as Florine.  In any case, ours seems to be doing the job, FYI...

Edited February 14 by MAX Burner

[Geronimo John]

On 2/7/2025 at 7:21 AM, jd1923 said:

If using the City Water, a true pressure regulator outside the Oliver is the way to go. Not needed to fill the FWT since pressure cannot be created in an open line

Yes, at least 99.85% of the time.  And you are correct in that the OE2 fresh water fill, lines and tank is an open system.   But the open part is only the fresh water fill tank overflow tube located in the area under the microwave space.  This line vents out of the trailer just aft of our steps.  Should mud daubers 

or other critters build their nest in that line, that open tank system no longer is.    Problem with this line of logic is that many owners set their pressure at 40+ PSI.  I am not at all sure what the OTT poly FWT is pressure rated  for.   And being that water is a non-compressible fluid, an over pressured tank  would only fail with just a big puddle.  Not like how pressurized compressible gasses act during failures.  But could easily test to failure the FWT system to find out.... on your trailer!

Actually funning aside, I wonder if OTT ever tried to blow up a FWT by overpressure?  I suspect yes, hence the oversize vent tube..... But I'm just guessing.

  🙂

 

Edited February 15 by Geronimo John

[jd1923]

2 minutes ago, Geronimo John said:

But the open part is only the fresh water fill tank overflow tube located in the area under the microwave space.  This line vents out of the trailer just aft of our steps.  Should mud daubers or other critters build their nest in that line, that open tank system no longer is...

GJ, since we've gotten to know each other (virtually), you know I ALWAYS have an answer (as do you)!

I truly enjoyed your post, but I would just increase the pressure and blow those LBs out! 🤣

Seriously though, every Oliver owner should know this line is clear, since every time we fill the tank until it overflows and pressure cannot build in an open system. Before every trip, I fill mine at home where house pressure is known. We have an adjustable regulator in the basement.