Battery Box Separation

[Mike and Carol]

This is an issue I have not seen before.  While checking my trailer this morning I noticed that my battery box is separating from the hull.  I don’t know when this started.  When we replaced my AGM batteries in Dec ‘20 I did not notice this.  Once the four AGM’s were out I did a lot of cleaning and work on the tray and I feel that I would have noticed it then if it was happening.  I will submit a trouble ticket with Oliver to see what they think.  Not sure how this would be repaired.  

If you have an older trailer that carried those heavy AGM batteries I would check for cracks or separation.  Here are some pictures, what does everyone think?

Here is the right side:

Here are a couple of the top:

Left side top:

[topgun2]

A thread on "cracks" at and/or near the battery box was posted a number of years ago.  But, as I recall, these cracks were generally in the exterior hull right at the corners of the battery box.

Have you looked at the "support post" that is between the hulls directly under the battery box (approximately in the bottom center of the box)?

Bill

[Mike and Carol]

9 minutes ago, topgun2 said:

A thread on "cracks" at and/or near the battery box was posted a number of years ago.  But, as I recall, these cracks were generally in the exterior hull right at the corners of the battery box.

Have you looked at the "support post" that is between the hulls directly under the battery box (approximately in the bottom center of the box)?

Bill

No, I didn’t have time this morning.  It’s in storage and I had turned on the furnace yesterday because mid-20’s was forecasted last night (first freeze this year).  I’m going to bring it home sometime this week and get a closer look.  Mike

[Mike and Carol]

Just found this thread, similar issue.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/7089-battery-box-repair/#comment-109444

[topgun2]

Wow - good research!

I forgot about that thread - it appears to be exactly the same problem.

Maybe Galway Girl would be willing to do the repair for you?😉

Bill

[Galway Girl]

Mike,

Please turn a ticket in to Oliver Support as category of structural failure/battery box.

My repair has held since 2022 when I turned in the ticket.  
I followed specific Oliver instructions on my repair as I was too far from the Factory for a repair.

I've also had Oliver inspect each time I go back for service...and so far it's held in place.

Craig

 

[Mike and Carol]

25 minutes ago, Galway Girl said:

Mike,

Please turn a ticket in to Oliver Support as category of structural failure/battery box.

My repair has held since 2022 when I turned in the ticket.  
I followed specific Oliver instructions on my repair as I was too far from the Factory for a repair.

I've also had Oliver inspect each time I go back for service...and so far it's held in place.

Craig

 

Craig, yes I turned in a ticket this morning.  Reading through what you did I might be marginally able repair it.  I’ll see what Oliver service says when they come in to work.  I would like to talk with you when you have time.  I saw your PM.  Thanks.  Mike 

[Geronimo John]

 

8 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

 I don’t know when this started.

Crazy Horse asked if by chance you have Alcon's?

I told him to mind his own business.

GJ

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

Crazy Horse asked if by chance you have Alcon's?
I told him to mind his own business. GJ

"Alcan" Springs, somehow when reading this earlier today, I kind-a though this might come up...

And, I remembered that Craig @Galway Girl wrote about this same issue and making the repair. From his post above, "My repair has held since 2022" (TG) which is two years prior to when our friend Lance installed Alcan Springs on his Oliver, the first.

Keep an eye on your battery door and I will do the same. The question is, what causes the failure? Is the battery base secure?

Edited January 19 by jd1923

[Mike and Carol]

10 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

 

Crazy Horse asked if by chance you have Alcon's?

I told him to mind his own business.

GJ

Yes, I do have a recent install of ALCAN springs.  Looking at the separation it appears to me that this is not new.  I have also learned of other instances of this (Galway Girl being one of them) that predate any ALCAN spring installations.  You gave good advice to Crazy Horse 🤪.

 

[Hokieman]

22 hours ago, topgun2 said:

Have you looked at the "support post" that is between the hulls directly under the battery box (approximately in the bottom center of the box)?

This reminded me of an older thread (see link) that addressed battery box support bracket and bolts.   Recommended reading for those that have not already addressed, it might help avoid a loose battery box.   In my case, both nuts & bolts of the support were very loose when I checked them, and the holes were drilled poorly by the factory.   I drilled a new “clean” hole and installed 3 stainless bolts, washers and nylon nuts.   A quick and easy task.  

   https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/6112-battery-box-support-bolts-missing

 I recommend caution when sliding out the battery tray, be gentle and avoid leaning on the tray.   It puts an excessive force on the rivets and support bracket, especially if you have AGM batteries. 

Edited January 19 by Hokieman

[taylor.coyote]

We are repairing our battery box separation as we speak per the old string from Galway Girl. The combination 250lbs of AMG batteries, off the grid travel and aluminum rivets proves to have been a bad marriage. Now have 300AH lithiuim batteries weighing in at 80lbs and steel rivets. 

 

[Mike and Carol]

6 hours ago, taylor.coyote said:

We are repairing our battery box separation as we speak per the old string from Galway Girl. The combination 250lbs of AMG batteries, off the grid travel and aluminum rivets proves to have been a bad marriage. Now have 300AH lithiuim batteries weighing in at 80lbs and steel rivets. 

 

You used stainless steel rivets?  Any adhesive?  I need to gather the materials I’m going to need for this repair.

[Geronimo John]

 

9 hours ago, Hokieman said:

 I recommend caution when sliding out the battery tray, be gentle and avoid leaning on the tray.

Reallly good idea! 

 

6 hours ago, taylor.coyote said:

The combination 250lbs of AMG batteries, off the grid travel and aluminum rivets proves to have been a bad marriage.

Yep weight and G-forces will tend to find weak parts.  At least your Litho weight is way under what the OEM's were.  

We now have seen frame fractures and battery boxes being damaged by trailers likelly exceeding their design limits in one way or another.  Just a reminder that stiff Frames/Springs/Shocks and high tire pressures are things to avoid or at least mitigate where we can. 

GJ

[Mike and Carol]

12 hours ago, Geronimo John said:

We now have seen frame fractures and battery boxes being damaged by trailers likelly exceeding their design limits in one way or another.  Just a reminder that stiff Frames/Springs/Shocks and high tire pressures are things to avoid or at least mitigate where we can. 

We only recently upgraded our springs and we’ve been at 50psi in our tires for many years.  I think the heavy AGMs and many miles is at the root of this issue.  There are a number of rivets all around the box that were all popped/damaged/pulled out.  It doesn’t seem that that could happen all at once, but probably happened over time and miles.  Our lithium batteries, installed 4 years ago, are 1/3 to 1/4 the weight of the AGMs.

The Oliver response to my trouble ticket was to check and send pictures of the brace inside the trailer.  I did and the response was that I could probably use a good adhesive to repair it since the brace holding up the box looked good.  I didn’t like that answer so I asked to be sent over to service for some advice.  Mike S in service said they use rivets to repair and also inspect the support bracket.  I’m debating whether to try this myself or just make a trip to TN.

Unlike Galway Girl, my bracket only has one bolt and it is in an adjustable slot.

Other side:

It’s interesting that the box is leaning out from the trailer and the bolt is at the bottom of the slot.  When I pull the battery tray out, the box moves out more but every so slightly, less than 1/16”.  I would think that the sag would be the other way around, leaning into the trailer since the weight is over the support more than 99% of the time.

Edited January 20 by Mike and Carol

[Geronimo John]

6 hours ago, Mike and Carol said:

It’s interesting that the box is leaning out from the trailer and the bolt is at the bottom of the slot.  When I pull the battery tray out, the box moves out more but every so slightly, less than 1/16”.  I would think that the sag would be the other way around, leaning into the trailer since the weight is over the support more than 99% of the time.

I SUSPECT that the lean out is to facilitate water drainage should a seal fail.  I support your thought that the advantagee of a slight lean in would out-weigh potential negatives of a seal failure.  

The amount of the lean out could for sure facilitate the failure of the rivets.  The support member as you have:

with just one bolt (as pictured) could easily allow the top of the "stiff leg" to move out there by increasing lean and failure.  Suggest adding a second bolt above the shown one to better fix (Lock in)  the angle of tilt once properly adjusted.

GJ

 

Edited January 20 by Geronimo John
adderd "Lock In"

[taylor.coyote]

GJ, thanks for the tips on suspension and tire pressure. I'm running Alcan springs and 50psi in the tires. Hopefully this combination with lightweight batteries and steel rivets will be a good solution after my repair

 

 

[jd1923]

Sorry this happened to you Mike! Maybe you could source a local tech if you don’t want to get into this yourself. At least you’re home for a while.

Wish I had looked further into this last month when I added a 3rd battery! I can be so dumb, took this pic at that time. The bolt and nut where fine but question is, did the mount sag, should the bolt be tightened higher up in the slot? The main bolt, coming down from the bay was tight which I removed and replaced with a 1/2” eye bolt to hold battery straps and cable lock. It felt firm as I yanked on the battery straps several times.

All our rivets look good after we towed 3 hours down the mountain yesterday with the new setup, battery straps were still tight. Two years ago we had 4 LA batteries filling the 30 LB tray. We must be 100 LBS lighter now, no tray and 3 li batteries!

Heading back home for the weekend and I’ll have to pull the streetside bed and see if that mount should be raised. Bummer is to do it right I should remove the batteries AGAIN, to get the weight off the shelf to be able to see any movement. I’ll add a second bolt too, seen in other installations. There should always be two bolts and OTT should learn to have a QC specialist check WIP after EVERY installation on the factory floor! 😎

[carnivore]

I too had a battery box separation and repaired it 3 days ago. Unfortunately I badly damaged the door gasket. So far I haven’t been able to get a call back from anyone in Oliver parts. Does anyone have a source or make & model for the battery door gasket material?

[Wayfinder]

19 hours ago, carnivore said:

Does anyone have a source or make & model for the battery door gasket material?

That would be a great part number to keep in my parts list.  I'd also be interested in this answer if you find out @carnivore. My seals will be showing age more and more now that they're 10 years old.

[dewdev]

I agree, Yes a good part number to keep on file.

Has anyone checked with OTT to see if they can provide the manufacutre name and part number?

[topgun2]

I've just sent Mike Sharpe an email asking for this information.

Hopefully he will have a chance to reply soon.

Bill

[srthomsen]

On 1/20/2026 at 9:22 AM, Mike and Carol said:

 I would think that the sag would be the other way around, leaning into the trailer since the weight is over the support more than 99% of the time.

I was thinking that same thought.

[jd1923]

20 hours ago, carnivore said:

I too had a battery box separation and repaired it 3 days ago. Unfortunately I badly damaged the door gasket. So far I haven’t been able to get a call back from anyone in Oliver parts. Does anyone have a source or make & model for the battery door gasket material?

If it was me, I'd look in the aftermarket! Took me a quick search to find this product. I assumed a 1" diameter but did not measure ours. This or something like it would likely work fine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D3PKNY47/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0D3PKNY47&th=1

CAUTION: You should determine cause for your separation. Check your support beam below the box. View it from both sides, streetside bed (see my picture above) AND look from under the rear dinette seat.

OTT forgot a weld on one of my jack brackets. They also forgot to finish this support beam install! Hard to believe, but true. I've compared ours with some of Oliver friends. The others have two bolts which is mandatory! I have to get in there again, drill and add a second bolt!

With batteries out, most of the weight off the battery tray, from underneath see if there is movement of the support beam. I plan to remove my batteries AGAIN. Then get a bottle jack under there to see if the support can be raised just a little. The fact that this single bolt is at the bottom of the groove shows it's at the lowest setting. Likely the beam/tray should be raised some for proper support. Then I'll tighten the single bolt installed, drill a second hole through the top of the slot to add a 2nd bolt, then torque down both.

Thank goodness we have no door separation, but those who have should investigate the support beams below. Some have reported missing nuts, or nuts falling off the bolts. (How does a Nylok nut fall off a bolt? It doesn't. It was likely laid there never threaded on. Go figure.)

[topgun2]

2 hours ago, topgun2 said:

I've just sent Mike Sharpe an email asking for this information.

Hopefully he will have a chance to reply soon.

I just got off the phone with Mike (Oliver Parts/Service).

The part number is: 3075

The part description is: 3/4 inch bulb

The cost is $15.00 plus shipping

The amount in stock is: 3 - more are on order

 

Carnivore - during the call with Mike he remembered that you had called requesting this information.  Mike called you back and left a voice message on your phone on the 18th.  He also said that he was going to try calling you again right after he could get me off the phone.

Bill