TV - Stereo Gremlin

[DBL-R]

Hello, I have a 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite with the Jensen TV and the Furrion stereo.  When hooked up to shore power, if I operate the TV or the stereo independently, they work fine.  However, if I have the stereo on and then turn the TV on, the stereo shuts off completely (as in no power).  If I turn the TV off, the stereo comes back on.  Any suggestions?

Thank you

Ron

[topgun2]

Does the stereo and/or the TV normally play its sound through the speakers in the Ollie (both front and rear speakers)?

Bill

[Mike and Carol]

Does this happen when not hooked up to shore power?  I have the same set up.  Both the TV and Furrion receiver are 12V so shouldn’t be affected by shore power.  Mike

[Snackchaser]

7 hours ago, DBL-R said:

Hello, I have a 2015 Oliver Legacy Elite with the Jensen TV and the Furrion stereo.  When hooked up to shore power, if I operate the TV or the stereo independently, they work fine.  However, if I have the stereo on and then turn the TV on, the stereo shuts off completely (as in no power).  If I turn the TV off, the stereo comes back on.  Any suggestions?

Thank you

Ron

Ron,

From what you describe, this is a power issue, not an audio source issue.  So you can rule out the HDMI ARC feature of many modern components that sends a signal to automatically switch the stereo to the active sound source.   

However, there is another HDMI feature on some higher end TV/Stereos that allows the TV to also turn on another component such as a stereo.   If this is the case with your TV, then you might have a HDMI cable issue causing spurious signals.  Try unplugging the HDMI cable to see if that resolves the problem.  If it does, then try a new high quality HDMI cable with a Ferrite choke (little barrel looking thing that goes over the cable).   This is a quick and easy check to eliminate one potential cause.

If that doesn't work, then it could be something to do with the yellow Accessory trigger wire common on 12 volt stereos.  I'd have to think on that one a bit more, so let us know what you find.

Cheers, Geoff

 

 

 

[DBL-R]

Well now the TV won’t even turn on and the cabin lights seem dim.  Since it is in the garage the battery is reading 9v.  I’ve tried unplugging the HDMI with no luck.  I have to reset the Furrion to get it to turn on.  when attempting to turn on the TV the cabin lights dim.

i just went out disconnected it from shore power, tried to reset the stereo and it will not power on.

i though when connect to shore power that it would charge the batteries, is this not the case?

 

and prior to the the stereo worked fine and played through all 4 speakers 

thank you all for the support

Ron

 

Edited yesterday at 02:13 AM by DBL-R

[topgun2]

Ron - 

Have you checked the connection(s) for all wires coming into your negative bus bar?  Perhaps before that try unplugging the TV and/or stereo and then try your cabin lights - same dimming?  What I'm thinking here is that either you have a loose wire(s) on the negative side or that there might be a electrical short in the TV or the stereo.

Bill

[DBL-R]

Hi Bill thank you, the TV is unplugged from power, not sure how I could unplug the stereo wi the out removing it. Where would I find the negative bus bar?

sorry for the ignorance but the Oli is new to us.

Ron

[Snackchaser]

Ron,

9 volts is critically low, you've got a dead or dying battery situation, and everything else is a symptom of that. Due to a lack of information, I'd guess your shore power is dead or faulty.  This would result in battery not charging, and the TV (120vac or 12vdc) is not getting needed volts.  Same thing with the 12 volt dc stereo, only it has different tolerance to low voltage and that's probably why either one or the other was working.  If battery was dead, your lights and stereo should still work from the converter/charger that converts 120vac shore power 12vdc.  More evidence of bad shore power.   There could be other causes, but shore power is a likely culprit with the information provided so far.

 

Geoff

[DBL-R]

Geoff, the 30amp 120v circuits is brand new.  The surge protector indicates that the circuit is good. Still getting battery on I can only assume since the trailer is in my garage. The solar wouldn’t charge the batteries. Since there are two batteries connected together if I put one of the batteries on a battery tender, will it charge both batteries?
 

Edited yesterday at 03:43 AM by DBL-R

[DBL-R]

I put the batteries on a battery tender we’ll see if that helps out. I also tried a second 30 amp 120 V circuit on the outside of the house that made no difference. I thought maybe my power cable was bad but when I plugged that into 120 V the microwave works, but all the lights are still very dim. That was just an update. Thank you for all your help. It’s time to get some rest. Good night.

[Snackchaser]

Okay, shore power looks good, but battery is dead!  Sounds like you had been using outdoor solar to keep the batteries charged, then moved the trailer into the garage where there is no solar charging.  If you didn't have shore power connected right away, then normal parasite power could have drained down the batteries and they just haven't had enough time to charge yet.   A deeply discharged lead-acid battery looks almost like a short circuit to the charger initially. The battery voltage is so low that the converter/charger dumps maximum current into it trying to bring it up, which could cause brownouts both on the AC and DC  power circuits.  Deep discharge cycles and age can also degrade batteries, so they may not be charging, or they could be acting like a short.

A faulty converter/charger can cause similar issues.  It could have been weak or bad for a while, but un-noticed if you were solar charging.  They can degrade and still work, but at a lower output.  Where are you reading voltage?  This could provide clues.

To answer your question, yes a tender will charge both of your batteries at the same time.  That would be a good next step.

[Geronimo John]

13 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

9 volts is critically low, you've got a dead or dying battery situation,

At 9 volts the diehard's have likely already died.  

Good news on having 120V, at least you are not totally toasted.

The batteries appear to be 12V wired in parallel.  I'm 90% sure they are gonners.  

Don't just replace them  until you get a volt meter and can test the output of your battery charger.  They are called Converters.  You'll need a volt with clamp on amp meter or a friend who has one.

Post back with what you find.

GJ

 

Edited yesterday at 04:42 PM by Geronimo John

[DBL-R]

Great news! Overnight, the batteries charged and are now at 12.2 volts. Everything works as it should—lights, TV, stereo, and so on. It’s not connected to shore power. My new theory is that the 12-volt batteries supply power to all those items and charge properly when sunlight or solar power is available. When plugged into shore power, the 120-volt power will power the fridge, microwave, heater, and air conditioner. However, the other items continue to draw power from the 12-volt batteries and don’t switch over to the 120-volt power source and ultimately drain the batteries.  Looking st the owner’s manual there should be 3-25 amp fuses, looking at the panel there are 2-30 amp fuses and one empty slot (see photo).

Any thoughts?

Thank you

Ron

Edited yesterday at 03:01 PM by DBL-R

[Steph and Dud B]

25 minutes ago, DBL-R said:

When plugged into shore power, the 120-volt power will power the fridge, microwave, heater, and air conditioner. However, the other items continue to draw power from the 12-volt batteries

As others have said, it sounds like your converter isn't charging the batteries. Could be a failed converter or blown fuse. Question for the hive mind: does the converter in a 2015 have reverse polarity fuses between the batteries and converter?

[Geronimo John]

 

1 hour ago, Steph and Dud B said:

Question for the hive mind: does the converter in a 2015 have reverse polarity fuses between the batteries and converter?

First, great news.  Yes it does.  From the OM:

Copy of the manual is attached.

Great news.  

GJ

OM - Progressive Dynamics Converter Manual 4000.pdf

[Geronimo John]

12 hours ago, Snackchaser said:

A faulty converter/charger can cause similar issues.  It could have been weak or bad for a while, but un-noticed if you were solar charging.  They can degrade and still work, but at a lower output.  Where are you reading voltage?  This could provide clues.

To answer your question, yes a tender will charge both of your batteries at the same time.  That would be a good next step.

WELL DONE!

GJ

[jd1923]

3 hours ago, DBL-R said:

Overnight, the batteries charged and are now at 12.2 volts.

Lead acid batteries should charge up to 12.6V. Yours being down to 9V and on charger overnight only getting to 12.2V, means it’s time to replace them. I see your hull #99, wow! This must be the second or maybe 3rd set of LA batteries. No time like the present to upgrade to LiFePO4 batteries! 😎

[DBL-R]

They are now at 12.4 v and still chaarging, the batteries were replaced in December of 2023, with deep cell marine batteries.  I still don’t know why it isn’t charging when on shore power and it lights and other items are only running off of the batteries.

 

[jd1923]

24 minutes ago, DBL-R said:

They are now at 12.4 v

Getting there! When you're home, I would turn OFF the onboard converter (there should be a breaker for it in the AC panel) and try another charger. Perhaps some of the comments re your converter could be true.

I use this model at home and always travel with it. It has a repair mode too for what happened in your case getting too low on voltage. It can be switched between LA/AGM/LiFePO4 batteries. I purchased the 10A model is fine for battery maintenance/overnight charging. They also have higher amperage models (larger and more expensive).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3QT226/?th=1

[Snackchaser]

Ron, You've had good advice to check the converter fuses.  If that is not the issue, then iI's time to break out a voltage meter.  1) Disconnect shore power, and your battery tender, then check voltage at the battery (it's probably the 12.4 as you were seeing).  2) Reconnect shore power and check voltage at the same location, it should be higher which would indicate if your converter is converting and charging.  If not, the converter is bad.  

Update:  I looked at the converter manual link from above.  The converter has 3 stages of output, each with a different voltage of 14.4, 13.6 and 13.2.  One of those voltage values is what you should see when you test the battery on shore power.  The manual also has a section that describes a simple test to absolutely confirm it's faulty before replacement.  Be mindful that electrical problems are elusive and tricky, so the manual's test is important.

As Jd suggested, the batteries are older and you could upgrade to lithiums.  That would be a big improvement.  However, unless there are pages missing from the manual, it looks like your converter is for lead acid batteries only.  So if you upgrade batteries, also upgrade the converter.  Fortunately, repair kits are available to replace the converter/charger section of the older PD units, and that also upgrades them to lithium chargers at the same time!   Also, you would need to check/set your solar charger profile for lithium batteries.

Looks like you're making good progress!  Geoff

[Steve and MA]

@jd1923, I also have the Noco Genius 10 for maintaining the chassis batteries on my motorized RVs. Last summer I accidentally let the chassis battery on my Pleasure Way discharge completely.  After using the repair mode on the charger, it's been holding a full charge.  Noco claims the repair mode pushes up to 16.5 volts to reverse battery sulfation and stratification caused by storage at low charge.  Maybe @DBL-R can restore the existing batteries with such a charger.  

[dewdev]

On 2/22/2026 at 9:25 AM, DBL-R said:

Great news! Overnight, the batteries charged and are now at 12.2 volts. Everything works as it should—lights, TV, stereo, and so on. It’s not connected to shore power. My new theory is that the 12-volt batteries supply power to all those items and charge properly when sunlight or solar power is available. When plugged into shore power, the 120-volt power will power the fridge, microwave, heater, and air conditioner. However, the other items continue to draw power from the 12-volt batteries and don’t switch over to the 120-volt power source and ultimately drain the batteries.  Looking st the owner’s manual there should be 3-25 amp fuses, looking at the panel there are 2-30 amp fuses and one empty slot (see photo).

Any thoughts?

Thank you

Ron

@DBL-R Based on my 2018 wiring diagram, I have 3 - 25 (or 30 in your case) amp fuses which are called Reverse Battery Fuses. Strange that your system calls for 30 amp. As indicated in this post, check the batteries for property wiring and then check the Reverse Battery Fuses to make sure they are not blown. Not sure why you do not have 3 fuses in place. It might be a good idea to call OTT to confirm the 3 fuses in your Ollie are required.

Good luck

Edited 43 minutes ago by dewdev

[DBL-R]

Thank you everyone, this forum is awesome support

[Mike and Carol]

8 hours ago, DBL-R said:

Great news! Overnight, the batteries charged and are now at 12.2 volts. Everything works as it should—lights, TV, stereo, and so on. It’s not connected to shore power. My new theory is that the 12-volt batteries supply power to all those items and charge properly when sunlight or solar power is available. When plugged into shore power, the 120-volt power will power the fridge, microwave, heater, and air conditioner. However, the other items continue to draw power from the 12-volt batteries and don’t switch over to the 120-volt power source and ultimately drain the batteries.  Looking st the owner’s manual there should be 3-25 amp fuses, looking at the panel there are 2-30 amp fuses and one empty slot (see photo).

You have 12v only powered items, propane only items, 120v items and some that work on multiple inputs.

12v only:  Furnace motor, water pump, lights, front and rear jacks, ceiling fans (Maxxfan and bath fan), TV and Furrion stereo. These items only work off of your batteries.

120v only:  AC, microwave.

Propane only:  cook top

Combination:  Water heater (heats on propane or 120v or both at the same time), Fridge (on shore power it defaults to 120v, no shore power it goes to propane, if you want to run on 12v you have to select, at least on my 3 way Dometic.  It’s most efficient on propane).

Your furnace generates heat from propane only but the fan is 12v only, no shore power needed.  Also, if you have the 2K watt inverter it works on 12v to generate 120v, if your batteries don’t have sufficient charge your inverter will not function properly.  

Hope this helps.  Mike

 

[DBL-R]

Thank you Mike I think the issue is that when plugged into shore power it doesn’t charge the batteries and if there is no sun to charge them they will die.

Ron